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South Wall

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Description

The climbing on this cliff start short (20 feet) on the far right and gradually gets higher as the rock face moves to the left. This is a very popular area and has easy top rope access.

Access issues inherited from Ontario

In the more populated areas of Ontario, especially southern and south-western Ontario (within a few hours drive of Toronto) access is often complicated, with many cliffs closed to climbing. The Ontario Alliance of Climbers (OAC) monitors this, and negotiates for access to cliffs, or to avoid closures. They maintain a crag status list at: https://www.ontarioallianceofclimbers.ca/crag-status/

The Ontario Ministry of Natural Resources and Forestry also maintains an online crown land use policy atlas. This can often be used to determine the ownership status of the land on which a cliff is located in Ontario. It can be found at: http://www.giscoeapp.lrc.gov.on.ca/web/MNR/NHLUPS/CLUPA/Viewer/Viewer.html .

Approach

From the parking lot follow the path to the wooden bridge. Once over the bridge walk up and to the right on the trail.

Ethic inherited from Beaver Valley

Leave no trace and tread lightly! Please refer to https://www.ontarioallianceofclimbers.ca/climbers/getting-outside

Red tagged route: do not touch - route is a closed project and/or bolting is unfinished (i.e. dangerous).

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Routes

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Grade Route

Follow the bolt line to the left of White of Spring.

FA: Randy Kielbasiewicz, 2016

FA: Randy Kielbasiewicz, Shawn Pinowski & Charlie Edison

Starts at the open book crack, up and over a couple of ledges. Tough to top out but there are anchors over the top

FA: Helmut Microys & Pete Turner, 1960

FFA: Chas Yonge, 1982

FA: Reg Smart & Fraser Allan, 1986

FA: Randy Kielbasiewicz, 2014

Classic overhanging hand/fist crack

FA: Helmut Microys & Jim Ferguson, 1960

FFA: John Kaandorp & Pete Zabrok, 1982

This climb is located on the main south wall. Locate a small dihedral with a small roof above. This route is often wet and may not see the best conditions for climbing it until September.

Classic overhanging corner. High first bolt with optional low piece.

FA: Helmut Microys, 1960

FFA: Jim Damon & Harry Breauman, 1987

FA: Sonnie Trotter

FA: Harry Heodiono, 1988

FA: Sonnie Trotter

This climb is located on the main south wall. Climber's right of White hand. This route is often wet and may not see the best conditions for climbing it until September, but one can be lucky and enjoy a cool, dry weekend there in August. There are 6 bolts, one old rusty pin and then anchors (optional to clip pin). Starts on obvious chockstone lodged at about 6 feet off the ground.

Classic power endurance climbing

FFA: Chris Pegelo

FA: Helmut Microys, 1960

Starts as Mother of Jam, only steps right onto the face and arête. Easy to top out.

FA: John Kaandorp & Pete Zabrok, 1985

FA: Helmut Microys

FA: Pete Reilly, 1986

FA: Karl Krause & Grace Wong

FA: Helmut Microys & Werner Heiss, 1960

FFA: Pete Reilly, 1986

FA: Pete Zabrok & John Kaandorp, 1982

FA: Richard Massiah, 1988

FA: Matt Simpson, Mark Toma, John Michalenko & Leslie Timms, 2015

This route has three different starts. 5.6 if you climb left up and to the ledge, 5.7 if you go strait up and 5.9 if you climb right (funky moves off the start), all climbs go to the chimney and end at the anchors at the top.

Crux is first bolt to second, where the climbing eases up to the top. Used to be known as LD 50 (and many other names including Harry's Climb) until the bottom fell apart. (5.10c from 2nd bolt on according to "the Escarpment" guide book.)

FA: Harry Hoediono

Starts at a small crack, moves left on thin ledges to a great layback to the top. Quite polished and slick from lots of traffic.

FA: Pete Zabrok & John Kaandorp, 1982

The obvious chimney just left of Delicious Demon

The arête that is the right side of Jam chimney

FA: Karl Krause & Grace Wong, 1988

Obvious zig zag crack between Jam and Peanut Butter. Starting down left, jam up through the zig zag, moving right and up to the top.

FA: Tony Maloney & John Kaandorp, 1982

A very popular leaning crack, to anchors at the top.

Just right of Peanut Butter, climb the crack past the chock stone to the pocketed wall. Anchors at the top.

Slight overhanding crack climb. No bolts, top rope is done using natural anchor setup.

First route on the far right of the South Wall. Follows a crack. Two bolts on top for top roping. Heavily used school route; polished.

FA: David Smart, 1984

FA: Randy Kielbasiewicz, Shawn Pinowski & Charlie Edison

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Gus Alexandropoulos, Justin Dwyer

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780995046610

A comprehensive guidebook to Southern Ontario’s famous climbing area, the Niagara Escarpment. This is the first complete guide to the region in almost 25 years. This volume covers the portion of the Escarpment north of Shelburne including the Beaver Valley area and the Bruce Peninsula. Includes an extensively researched history of climbing in the area, and detailed information on over 1000 rock-climbing routes.

Author(s): Gus Alexandropoulos, Justin Dwyer

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780995046603

A comprehensive guidebook to Southern Ontario’s famous climbing area, The Niagara Escarpment. This is the first complete guide to the region in almost 25 years. This volume covers areas close to Toronto, including the popular Milton crags. Includes extensively researched history of climbing in the area, and detailed information on over 1,000 rock climbing routes.

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Mon 29 May
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