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Golf Town

  • Grade context: US
  • Ascents: 85
  • Aka: The Land Before Time
  • Aka: Back Bunker
  • Aka: Tee Off Pinnacle
  • Aka: Front Bunker
  • Aka: On The Green

Seasonality

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Description

The north end of the crag, farthest from the parking lot.

Access issues inherited from Ontario

In the more populated areas of Ontario, especially southern and south-western Ontario (within a few hours drive of Toronto) access is often complicated, with many cliffs closed to climbing. The Ontario Alliance of Climbers (OAC) monitors this, and negotiates for access to cliffs, or to avoid closures. They maintain a crag status list at: https://www.ontarioallianceofclimbers.ca/crag-status/

The Ontario Ministry of Natural Resources and Forestry also maintains an online crown land use policy atlas. This can often be used to determine the ownership status of the land on which a cliff is located in Ontario. It can be found at: http://www.giscoeapp.lrc.gov.on.ca/web/MNR/NHLUPS/CLUPA/Viewer/Viewer.html .

Ethic inherited from Beaver Valley

Leave no trace and tread lightly! Please refer to https://www.ontarioallianceofclimbers.ca/climbers/getting-outside

Red tagged route: do not touch - route is a closed project and/or bolting is unfinished (i.e. dangerous).

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Routes

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Grade Route

Climb to the right of the tree

Third line bolts to the right of the Front Bunker. Merges with Mickey Wright after only a few bolts.

Second line of bolts from the right of the Front Bunker entrance. This bold line follows an obvious finger crack weakness in the rock trending right. Powerful start that rewards with a nice ledge to rest on half way up. Anchors are shared with Annika Sorenstam, two feet right from Figjams anchors.

Note: Annika Sorenstam 5.11c offers a harder start variation to the right. The two merge roughly 6 feet below the ledge.

Leftmost bolted route in the Front Bunker. Gets some sun, unlike the two 5.8 routes to its right.

In shade all day.

In shade all day.

The long bolted line left of the front bunker. Easy start leads to progressively harder climbing up top.

Route to the right of the corner and Snap Hook

Left of corner and Garry Player

Fun route left of Snap Hook

A lone route past/behind this gully

Leftmost route, closest to the front bunker entrance.

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Gus Alexandropoulos, Justin Dwyer

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780995046603

A comprehensive guidebook to Southern Ontario’s famous climbing area, The Niagara Escarpment. This is the first complete guide to the region in almost 25 years. This volume covers areas close to Toronto, including the popular Milton crags. Includes extensively researched history of climbing in the area, and detailed information on over 1,000 rock climbing routes.

Author(s): Gus Alexandropoulos, Justin Dwyer

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780995046610

A comprehensive guidebook to Southern Ontario’s famous climbing area, the Niagara Escarpment. This is the first complete guide to the region in almost 25 years. This volume covers the portion of the Escarpment north of Shelburne including the Beaver Valley area and the Bruce Peninsula. Includes an extensively researched history of climbing in the area, and detailed information on over 1000 rock-climbing routes.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Mon 29 May
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