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Metcalfe North

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Description

This is the area directly past 'The Anvil'.

Access issues inherited from Ontario

In the more populated areas of Ontario, especially southern and south-western Ontario (within a few hours drive of Toronto) access is often complicated, with many cliffs closed to climbing. The Ontario Alliance of Climbers (OAC) monitors this, and negotiates for access to cliffs, or to avoid closures. They maintain a crag status list at: https://www.ontarioallianceofclimbers.ca/crag-status/

The Ontario Ministry of Natural Resources and Forestry also maintains an online crown land use policy atlas. This can often be used to determine the ownership status of the land on which a cliff is located in Ontario. It can be found at: http://www.giscoeapp.lrc.gov.on.ca/web/MNR/NHLUPS/CLUPA/Viewer/Viewer.html .

Ethic inherited from Beaver Valley

Leave no trace and tread lightly! Please refer to https://www.ontarioallianceofclimbers.ca/climbers/getting-outside

Red tagged route: do not touch - route is a closed project and/or bolting is unfinished (i.e. dangerous).

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

~9 bolts to a set of quick clip lower off shuts for anchors.

FA: Randy Kielbasiewicz & Tibor Hargitai, 1997

Starts roughly in the same crack/corner as With Boots before heading onto the left face under a bulge. Has a similar end to Peak Season in Harlem, though of lesser quality overall.

FA: Randy Kielbasiewicz

Second pitch of With Boots

Climb a steep gully/groove just right of Peak Season in Harlem to a ledge at the base of a cave. Belay here and climb out the right side of the cave and continue up the groove to the top. This route is worthy, if only to see the cave system. (Copied from Rakkup guide)

FA: Blake Gooding & Justin Dwyer, 2012

Located just left of 'Arete Dreams' and about 10m right of 'Peak Season in Harlem'.

FA: Randy Kielbsiewicz

This arete also known as Arete Dreams is a fun route difficulty depends to what side of the arete your climbing climbers right of the arete is closer to 10a on climbers left 5.9-

FA: Randy Kielbsiewicz

FA: Brian Bergman

FA: Brian Bergman

Climb the obvious big crack. Big holds, nice layback. Continue over the bulge to anchor chains.

Start in the wide overhanging crack to the right of El Camino Real. Once established on a large ledge follow the short finger crack up before traversing right along a nice ramp. Head straight up before running into the bolted line of Good Feathas.

First bolted line on the main wall to the climbers left of the anvil.

FA: Randy Kielbasiewicz, 2014

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Gus Alexandropoulos, Justin Dwyer

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780995046610

A comprehensive guidebook to Southern Ontario’s famous climbing area, the Niagara Escarpment. This is the first complete guide to the region in almost 25 years. This volume covers the portion of the Escarpment north of Shelburne including the Beaver Valley area and the Bruce Peninsula. Includes an extensively researched history of climbing in the area, and detailed information on over 1000 rock-climbing routes.

Author(s): Gus Alexandropoulos, Justin Dwyer

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780995046603

A comprehensive guidebook to Southern Ontario’s famous climbing area, The Niagara Escarpment. This is the first complete guide to the region in almost 25 years. This volume covers areas close to Toronto, including the popular Milton crags. Includes extensively researched history of climbing in the area, and detailed information on over 1,000 rock climbing routes.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Mon 15 May
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