Routes in Australia for selected grade

Tricky start, eases as you go. From a sit start on the finger jug, climb up the juggy wall.

Bridge between the boulders to establish feet on the rail for v5 problem and the larger boulder. Use the big holds along the crack to traverse the boulder and finish on the V0 at the other end. Finish is the hardest part.

Located on the backside of the larger boulder, near where the two boulders touch. Sit start the left crack.

1 metre left of Stoplight Arete, sit start in crack and layback up corner. Fun.

Not bad.

Start: 60m R of TR is a flake crack with an overhanging start.

1. 37m (20) Easily up to roof [possible to scramble up and belay here]. Through roof [crux] and up crack to shallow scoop. R and up chimney.

2. 25m (13) Up wide line as for Trog.

Looks bold and scary. 2a] R 2m from shallow scoop on 'Fiddler' then up and L 5m to easier ground. Up.

Used to be considered a classic, but seems to have got a lot more lichenous over the years. Surprisingly steep. The first 2 pitches can be run together and there are abseil chains at the top of them.

Start: Initialled line 30m R of The Force etc.

1. 12m (18) Corner then R onto sloping ledge. Up crack and corner to sentry box then R to small ledge.

2. 13m (19) Climb the twin cracks to a chimney. Up this to chains.

3. 30m (12) Up chimney to blockage. Out R and up to large ledge. Crack through overhang and up.

Start: 70m R of KA below a L leading diagonal above large boulders. [I was on the first ascent and I couldn't find it again when I looked recently! PA)

1. 15m (12) Up to diagonal roof.

2. 15m (20) Up diagonally L to past ledge to scoop. Abseil descent from here. I think we originally thought it might go all the way to the top.

On the South facing wall of the boulder. Stand on the sloping slab at the base of the wall and jump right for a jug at the lip. Mantle out.

Has the right number of bolts, but they are not in the right places. I imagine this was bolted on lead. With a bit of a clean and bolt rationalisation could make a good route. 2m L pf PS. Unprotected moves up L to first bolt, thin moves up past another bolt to mossy ledge. Up past another bolt to a friable unprotected bulge with a bolt after the hard moves. Up to knobbly wall [#0.5 cam] and on to large ledge with DBB. [also possible to duck R to ES belay]

Starts as for Deshperado. Move L from the bollard and up the wall.

Superb face climbing with a trying start [very small cams]. From block climb seam between NSA and RL. Cont up easier L leaning crack then up wall above veering L to finish R of NSA

Devious, unprotected and committing. Start up steep pocketed wall immediately R of RIU. Continue up vague line until 4m below enormous chockstone. Step R below bulge to groove immediately R of arete. Up this to crack forming R side of chockstone. Up crack and buttress above.

Good climbing on nice rock. Seam starting from boulder 8m R of KK. From ledge finish easily up wall above.

Exciting climbing on beautiful pocketed rock. Up thin crack 2m R of MWHW, then pair of steep pocketed lines above and to L.

Explosive moves on pockets on supurb rock. Start up BiP, R up line, step R onto wall and up.

Hard graft. Two thin parallel cracks 7m R of AS. Above bulge go up R arete to ledge. Finish up thin crack directly above.

50m R of Jonah, a narrow buttress immediately R of a body chimney. Up middle of face then finish up L arete. Sustained and fiddley to protect. A bit artificial avoiding the ledge off R at half height.

The arête right of Sang Kyu Bai is hard and unprotected at the top.

A nice route. Start at the base of Pig Tail. Edge right, then up and traverse right to the dubious block on the arête. Continue around right and up.

1 RB at the (desperate) start then black chimney/groove to anchors on Sprung.

Start mid Squall Line and Hurricane and climb up. Gets very thin and then steep at the end on good jugs.

The second pitch, the major left-facing corner made by the left end of Beer-pot wall is one of the nicest in the Grampians. The first pitch is good but rope management is diabolical. You could just abseil down to the base of the main corner and skip the first pitch.

1. 15m (17) Overhang then up to traverse line. Traverse right until directly below corner. Steep dirty groove to base of corner.

2. 20m (19) Magnificent corner to terrace

3. 30m (14) Undercut start then up to wide cracks to easy ground. A better option after the undercut start is to traverse left and climb cracks and walls just right or on the arete in a spectacular position.

This used a tree to get started. Unfortunately the tree was killed in the 2006 bushfire and a much harder boulder-problem start would be needed to re-establish it. Start directly below the main corner. Use a small tree (no longer there) to get onto the short wall to below the steep groove. Steep, dirty groove to ledge below main corner.

Pity about the finishing pitches.

Start: Start at the corner on the righthand side of Beerpot wall.

1. 15m (-) Corner and wall to roof. Left to pea-pod.

2. 18m (20) Up pod then traverse right to stance under stunning flake.

3. 17m (20) 'Flake'. Belay on right.

4. 20m (-) Out right then pull over small roof. Up corner to another roof, left to arete.

5. 20m (-) Up and right.

6. 40m (-) Walk left to blocks, pull over steepening and finish up gully.

Arete L of Midday Sun (a bit better than it looks), finishing direct up through overhang / groove. Not as much pro at the crux as you'd like.

Contrived. Up just R of Arete (left arete of Transient), crossing into that route at the 3rd BR. Finish up short overhang and slab above. Can be done all on trad, although pro is a bit spaced at the bottom.

Up wall 1m R of Air brakes. Plenty of gear and soft tick for the grade.

A good climb that starts up the pleasant left facing corner to reach a halfway ledge. From the ledge, climb desperately past the bolt (or step a metre right to climb featured rock) to gain the thin seam up the headwall. Walk back to DBB.

Consider splitting the route into two pitches if you would prefer less rope in the system for the hard moves that follow.

About 25m L of BMc is a steep buttress/pinnacle with two grooves up its front. This takes the RH one. Good steep stuff.

1]26m [crux] Up and L until under groove. Up over bulge then steep groove exiting L to climb crack through overhang, crack above to top.

2] 10m Down climb back of pinnacle and up wall behind.

Start just to the left of Burnt By The Shade. Climb to the right side of major scoop and step left into line above. Follow cracking line and holds until they run out and step left under rap chains to finish.

At the L end of the main cliff, just R of cleft/gully. The L arete of the wall with fiddley small pro.

Wall just R of large block and 2m R of Grace. A sort of direct start to The Mentz File with poor protection.

L leaning seam starting 3m R of The Stand.

Up to then up R facing flake crack on wall just R of WHYSL.

Starts a few metres right of The Rutting Season. Climb the line and overhang to finish.

Fingers to off-width test-piece but needs cleaning. At upper left end of cliff are two pinnacles high on the cliff and 70 metres apart. Start in recessed alcove below left pinnacle. Climb distinctive, grey, right-facing flake-crack (ancient fixed nut at 10 metres, below teh overhang). Above overhang, belay on ledge on left. Abseil from tree.

Looks Great

Start: Starts up brushed groove in blunt arete 50m right of Satan\'s Exit, above right side of huge fallen blocks and just left of the yellow undercut wall.

1. 50m (20) Up groove (BR @ 12m) to overlap. Go 2m right and up into next groove. Hand traverse 4m right to foot of crack. Up this to ledge.

2. 50m (20) Step left then up dramatic crack which gets harder to ledge. Step right into chimney corner.

Some dubious rock.

Start: 2m right of 'Bitch City'

1. 25m (crux) Undercut line. Finish by under clinging flake to ledge on left.

2. 22m Wall to right curving flake. Up to stance below roof.

3. 25m Thin corner, pass roof on the right and up fist/hand crack.

Once well-known as one of the earlier grade 20s in Victoria but has sunk back into deserved obscurity. Still one of the cleaner climbs here though.

A superb right-facing black and yellow corner, a landmark at the right-hand end of the cliff. Scramble up to starting ledge. Escape off right at the top.

The shallow L-facing corner immediately right of Corum's Corner. Scramble off to the right.

a little left of the base of Queen of Hearts are a few distinct natural crack or crack and corner lines. Curioser and Curioser takes recessed twin/opposing corners. When one thins out to virtually disappear it is possible to do a groin-busting bridge to help move across to the other crack then up more easily.

Sit-start the protuding iron bar and make weird moves up the slab arete. Carefully mantel with slopers.

Climb the face left of Bleached Balls until the first break

Sit or stand start, up blunt arete to tricky finish.

SDS at lighter coloured section of wall with good left crimp for your left hand, move up to right hand pinch, and continue moving up to match finish on slopey top

Start as for Questionable Sequence, but move right onto good rail before top-out, and continue moving right along slopey rails until you meet the other boulder

Grade is just for the start, traverse is pretty chill - would ideally be topped out onto the ledge on the right side where there's enough space to actually get up, but would need a darn good brush first!

P1) 18 Climb Separation Anxiety to FH at half height then diagonal right to base of the hanging V corner. Up a body length or two then spacily onto the right arete and up to belay in alcove as for chicanery. P2) 19 Up and left to gain the fantastically airy left diagonal crack that slashed the headwall between SA and C. Climb it and live the good life!

The most prominent line up the guts of the main wall. Take some big gear.

1. 24m (19). Takes the big L-facing flake crack. Climb around the low overhang into the wide, steep crack. Climb this into the bottomless chimney. At the big roof, move out right onto the steep juggy wall and up to a small stance.

2. 24m. Straight up into the line above and so to the top.

The following three routes are on the front of the big pinnacle left of the main face. GOTG takes the left hand of two major lines on the face just around right of Sentinel Corner (SC is a prominent line with an enticing finger-crack-corner part way up).

1. Start as for Sentinel Corner. Up until able to move carefully rightward to step around the arete onto the left edge of the wall beneath a face crack. An intimidating few steep moves up to gain the crack/line proper. Lovely climbing up this to the top. There is a double bolt rap anchor at the top of the centre of the east face of the pinnacle.

some small gear useful for the crux.

1. 16m. Move up and traverse R to a crack leading into the corner proper. Climb the crack and continue up the corner to gain a sloping ledge and a belay in a 'slot'

2. 34m. crux. Move back R and climb the overhanging corner to a small ledge. Climb up to a small overhang. Exit L and continue up the line.

1. 16m. As for SC (freed).

2. 30m. Climb the slot above the belay to a stance on the left. Traverse back R to the original line and follow it.