Routes in Australia for selected grade

Starts about 80m right of 'Island Cruise' on wall with a grey seam up the middle. Traverse in from right to avoid roof, then up the wall. Descent by abseiling off tree 30m to left (facing in, 25m).

Left hand version of Live Action with a couple of BR's. Up to base of curving seam, step L, then straight up the wall to finish up the right side of the orange wall past 2 bolts.

Start 5m right of Sunday Exposé at weakness just right of a tree. Straight up flakey wall and thin crack. Veer right past BR until below smooth final wall. Hand traverse 3m left to reachy finish 1m right of Sunday Exposé.

20m right of LA, may have old BR

18m right of Primular, orange wall above block. undercut left line.

7m right of BBT.

5m right of CO, arete of pinnacle, just left of descent gully (40m left of right end of cliff), opposite TMHDI

Left-right girdle of cliff. Start below and left of big off-width. Finish through roof at right end.

A hard move to get started, then fair pro. Step up right under overhang on undercut buttress just right of Invictus. Straight up to finish direct over over-hang to summit.

Insecure and poorly protected. Hard start over bulge 2m right of Exam Crack(no pro). From ledge, start up seam on right side of face, then step left and climb twin ‘cracks’.

Attractive left arête of Chic To Chic. #3 Friend in break.

A rarely-seen buttress. Crack in under-cut buttress leading to cave below Bechervaise’s Route, then 4m left and through roof to wide crack. Could be grade 20. Repeat required.

Clip first BR on Stryletzia, then step left to pull through break in bulge (crux). Directly up left side of arête above (tricky finish).

Steep and a little pumpy. Climb attractive undercut seam 4m right of Dogs Outside The Eternal City, finishing up that climb.

Unbalanced; bouldery start, then easy. Undercut blunt arête 5m right of Publish Or Perish. Cairned 1m left of start

Brilliant. Up wall 2m right of Left In The Lurch to right-curving flake. Exit left from top of this. Step right and climb wall direct.

El steepo. Up left arête of flake-crack2m right of Cruise Control. Step right at overhang and pull onto wall above. Straight up to finish direct over next overhang.

The great roof-capped corner down the left end of the cliff is a mixed bag. The main corner on the second pitch is great but the rest of the climb is not in the same class.

Start: Scramble up to below a small corner below and just right of the main corner.

1. 13m (15) The little, left-facing corner and left to the main corne.

2. 43m (20) The corner to the roof and traverse 10 metres left to an exposed stance.

3. 40m (15) Continue traversing left under the roof (hand traverse at first then large ledge) and up the first possible break from the ledge, a left-slanting chimney. Belay off a chockstone about 10 metres up the chimney

4. 43m (18) Move out onto the face on the right and traverse right for about 20 metres to the middle of the face. Up the wall to finish through a slot in the final roof.

Excellent thin wall climbing with unlikely natural gear. Small wires are useful.

Start: Starts 2m left of 'Hypocrite' just left of the arête. Thin moves up face with occasional holds found on the right arête. Slopey finish just left of Hypocrite.

Heady wall climbing, but good rock and interesting moves. Joins into the last 10m of Steep Dreams. Start as for P2 of Rameses - on top of small buttress (best approached by climbing Bintanath). 1) 25m 20. Head up and diagonally L for a few metres, then up juggy ironstone line. At a blank section, move R (L is also possible), and up to optional belay in Pod. 2). 25m 20. Up into the line, which is followed to join the final 10m of Steep Dreams. Could be done in one long pitch.

A Beaman route with an aid point! The start is ordinary but the second pitch looks sensational.

Start: 12 metres left of "One Night Stand" at the left of two cracks just left of overhang.

1. 25m (-) Left of two cracks, with some vegetation at the start, to ledge and tree on right

2. 30m (20 M1) Corner, move right to arete and up to ledge. Short corner to overhang (one aid) and steep wall above to ledge on right.

3. 40m (-) Up lower-angled section to distinctive flake. Above flake follow line on left to terrace.

4. 12m (18) Finish up "Hypocrite" (originally finished up "Saturday Special")

Very bold and possibly undergraded. Although the climbing and outrageous position deserve at least a star (and possibly two), this major variation is unlikely to see any/many repeats until it gets a retro-bolt or two. Climb the second pitch of TLA for 3m, then traverse left and diagonally up across orange wall for approx 8m before heading straight up to the belay as for the 2nd belay of the original route.

Good climbing out on the buttress rather than in the dank chimneys. The route is now considered grade 20, but it does relent somewhat after the start.

Start: Line up buttress just left of "Vee Wee"

1. 25m (20) Line then right and bulging flake. Step right to belay.

2. 28m (18) Up and L on lovely flake system (poor pro). Around the arete, finishing up thin crack on front of buttress

3. 20m (18) Up on block then crack in orange wall. The final wide section can be avoided by going up left on flakes. This pitch was later written up be Peter Steane as a variant pitch to Stinger. He used the flakes out left to finish which may have been new ground.

4. 22m (17) Climb the juggy corner behind and right of the belay until you can move right to climb middle of the steep, grey buttress on fantastic rock.

Good second pitch, which originally had a lot of aid, including sky and bat hooks, but otherwise ordinary. The route length appears to be exaggerated.

Start: Start as for "Vee Wee".

1. 30m (15) Scramble up to wide crack in right wall. Up this to ledge then face above (old PR) (this is as for "Vee Wee") and exit right to a ledge.

2. 30m (20) The corner for 15 metres before heading up right to a ledge.

3. 44m (-) Diagonally left (?PR) then back right to a crack leading to a terrace.

4. 42m (-) As for "Vee Wee".

Wandering route starting up 'Cry Freedom' and finishing up what are probably the last two pitches of 'Royal Blues'. Has a hard start and finish but is unlikely to be popular. Start as for 'Cry Freedom'

1. 20m (19) Climb Cry Freedom for 5 metres, traverse 2 metres left then up weakness for 4 metres (difficult gear). Traverse 2 metres left to rest. Up easily to horizontal break and small overhang below where wall steepens. Up weakness above to horizontal break and tiny stance.

2. 25m Up wall above then veer up 2 metres left to weakness. Climb this, over bulge, then up right into small corner which leads to stance below roof. Beware of large detached blocks at top of this pitch.

3. 20m Traverse 4 metres right to large flake. From top of flake, go 2 metres left then up seam to bushy ledge.

4. 45m Walk left for 25 metres on ledge to where it is much wider and clear of scrub. Climb attractive corners above to stance.

5. 20m (19) Crack above to cracked overhang. Surmount this with difficulty and finish up corner.

Awkward seam leads to lovely crack system that has tantalised climbers for over two decades. At the top move R to small rap tree.

Start: Start 5m left of 'Renate' at a seam that marks the right end of smooth orange wall capped by an overhang.

Great face climbing on the first pitch. The scrubby second pitch is avoided by rapping off the slings (looking old in 2022) at the finish of P1 'Coronary Country'.

Starts 8 metres right of 'Coronary Country'.

1. 41m (20) Corner then face, veering towards the left edge of face. When you get to the duck head feature, step left again and then go up. Some will find this pitch to include a very reachy move. When the angle eases, step left to find the rap point.

2. 49m (-) Scrubby finish which may have bits in common with top of 'Coronary Country'.

Scrubby corner then step right. Through roof then right to arete.

Start: Start at scrubby corner left of roof overhanging the track.

Despite looking somewhat uninspiring from the ground, this route offers fantastic climbing. The first pitch doesn't offer good climbing and is quite nasty, but the quality of the following pitches is so good that the route probably deserves 3 stars overall. Not all parties agree with this. The route does wander a lot, so double ropes are handy, but route finding is not especially difficult.

Start: As you come up the walking track, it turns hard left just before reaching the cliff (from here you can spy the large orange corner of the second pitch). Continue along this track (towards the Giant's Staircase) for another 40m (at which point the track becomes adjacent to the cliff); to the right of this point there is a large dead tree, and the route starts immediately to its right.

1. 25m (18) Up difficult, poorly protected grey wall then more easily towards the orange corners and a ledge on the right.

2. 43m (19) Go up to and up the short corner above then the orange, v-shaped groove on the left. Exit this corner on the left: belay is possible here, or doddle up another few metres to belay on the ledge above.

3. 44m (18) From middle of ledge, go up towards the huge triangular roof above. Hand-traverse left under the ceiling and pull up into the V-shaped groove at the lip. Groove to top

Great climbing but the crux groove leading to the overhangs has some loose rock.

Start: Short crack below the corner marking the left side of the grey wall (as for 'Mr Pye' and Shibboleth).

1. 15m (18) Good moves up the short, thin crack then go diagonally left to the foot of the groove leading to the middle of the roof.

2. 40m (19) Groove to roof. Corners above roof lead to long ledge with old bolts (relics of an attempt on first ascent of Pall Bearer).

3. 40m (17) Into corner on left. Step right into another crack and up to small ledge (may still be a dead tree here). Corner, flake and groove to top (this last little bit was the finish of Shady Aid)

A companion to 'Abysmal Brute' which you'll need to locate first.

Start: Start at big line immediately left of 'Abysmal Brute'.

1. 27m (13) Up line to big ledge on right.

2. 40m (19) Overhang 2 metres right of 'Abysmal Brute' and up steep line. Now up slab to second belay of that route (old DBB).

3. 25m (19) Up left to grey groove in left arete of left one of a pair of steep, orange corners. Groove until it runs out on its right arete. 'Steep' headwall to scrubby ledge.

4. 48m (19) Up left on rising ramp for 15 metres to intersect chimney at half-height. Chimney until it peters out. Up and right to finish up highest and steepest section of buttress.

Another great route from Tim Beaman. It is unlikely that anyone has repeated the route exactly as climbed, with the original third pitch culminating in a lunge for a hold while a good 6 metres above the last gear! Mercifully there is an alternative!

Start: Start left of 'Nyingtong' at short wall below buttress split by crack, 10 metres right of where the walking track meets the cliff.

1. 25m (16) Wall to small ledge, short, flared chimney then hand crack to large ledge

2. 40m (19) Overhang then steep layback above. Go up more easily to top of easy-angled section.

3. 35m (19) Up and right to the right of two steep corners. Corner past overhang to ledge then unprotectable off-width corner which all parties since the first ascent have avoided on right at grade 16.

4. 20m (18) Continue in line

The chimney on the left side of 'Tourist Buttress' ends up in the third pitch of 'Tourist Buttress'. Rarely done. Usually only the first 25 metres is climbed as the 'Tourist Buttress' 'Brainchild' start.

Start: The chimney on the left side of 'Tourist Buttress'.

1. 36m (16) Climb the chimney to a ledge at 27 metres. Up the corner on the left to a roof. Move right and go up through the break to a ledge.

2. 35m (19) On the right and above the first pitch is a juggy crack. Start up this and sstep left to another crack before going up right to merge with the third pitch of 'Tourist Buttress' which is followed.

A very bold first pitch with some quite hard moves.

Usually done as a toprope problem after doing the first pitch of RIP Corner.

Start: Midway between RIP Corner and 'The Last Rites'.

Fantastic climbing from start to finish. Double ropes or lots of slings help, especially if you want to run some pitches together. The corners are often fused but can be protected fairly well with cams from 00-4 (especially 0.4-0.75) and loads of wires.

Start: Left facing flake-finger crack 10 metres right of RIP Corner.

1. 33m (18) Up flake to sloping ledge and piton at 15 metres. Then: The obvious way is to climb directly to the overhang and then hand traverse wildly right to the arete. The original way is to step right around the arete from the foot of or just below the sloping ledge then up the wall to the lip of the overhang and a piton. Now that the two ways have joined, pull over the bulge (be careful with the flake) onto the wall above. Either belay on a small stance on the left just above the overhang or continue up several metres to a slightly larger stance on the right.

2. 24m (18) Up short steep featured corner, left into beautiful thin corner then up to belay on small foot ledge on right below open crackless corner. (Pitches 2 and 3 are often combined.)

3. 26m (19) Gain access to the next corner left by stepping down and hand traversing the horizontal hand crack or charging up diagonally straight off the belay. Either method is pretty bold but not too hard. Up corner and past a piton to a small ledge on the left arete. Up juggy wall to long ledge below overhangs.

4. 33m (17) Take the awesome steep left-facing corner left of the roof until it eases and up crack to top.

There's lots of good climbing here from the ground all the way to the top. The original route included substantial bits of 'Debutante' and some of 'Requiem'. For a comprehensible route which people might actually climb bits of Toff Direct and 'Requiem' 'Direct Finish' have been grafted on.

Start: Below 'Debutante Direct Start'.

1. 20m (19) Climb the thin crack just left of 'Debutante Direct Start' to join 'Debutante' at 12 metres. Up to belay where 'Debutante' moves right. A better first pitch may be to do 'Debutante' DS and move left at the top to belay.

2. 20m (19) 'Steep' corner finishing up groove on right.

3. 30m (-) Right wall to bushy ledge just above. Left to corner and up to below big corner of 'Debutante'.

4. 35m (17) Climb up left, across left wall of Debutante's big corner, crossing another corner (Toff 'Direct Finish' 22) to prow. The exposed crack above. Original pitch went up 'Debutante' to big block and then traversed left to pitch 5.

5. 20m (-) Corner.

The superb crack leading to the first belay of 'Debutante' is intimidating but has excellent holds and gear.

Start: Below the overhang about 5 metres right of 'Debutante'.

Double ropes useful. Take RPs. From second belay of Diane Direct Finish, swing right round overhang and head for bottomless corner directly above belay (that is, right end of ledge). Up corner to third belay of Ashes to Ashes and finish as for Ashes to Ashes.

An intricate route up the rock right of 'Diane'. The direct variants possibly improve the climb - it depends on your point of view. Protection on the final pitches is sparse.

Start: Start at the V-groove just right of 'Diane'.

1. 38m (19) Climb the grrove until slightly above a tree on the right. Move right below the bulge and climb the crack above the tree to a second, smaller tree in corner.

2. 20m (-) The corner-crack to a ledge.

3. 38m (-) Traverse left to tree at the base of two grooves. Follow the right-hand one (left one is Ashes To Ashes) to ledge. Move left over blocks to belay.

4. 25m (-) Traverse back right from blocks and enter groove. Committing climbing leads diagonally right up the wall to a small stance below final crackless corner.

5. 25m (19) Traverse left to the crack on the left wall and climb it and difficult territory above.

A couple of direct variants offer possibly better climbing than the original 'Hard Times'.

Start: Start as for 'Hard Times'

1. 50m (20) Up to the bulge at about 15 metres and continue straight up twin cracks to a ledge.

2. 15m (-) Follow the right-hand groove to a ledge below overhang (this is on pitch 3 of Hard Times).

3. 22m (19) Pull onto the wall at the next weakness right of the start of Ht's fourth pitch and continue up the wall to rejoin HT near the belay.

4. 25m (19) Traverse left to the crack on the left wall and climb it and difficult territory above. This is the same as the last pitch of 'Hard Times'.

Strenuous. Unclear whether it encroaches on the wall climbing that some people do left of the upper crack on 'Knick Knack'. Abseil descent as for 'Knick Knack'.

Start: Start as for 'Mixed Climb'. Up 'Mixed Climb' for 15 metres then traverse 2 metres right and up buttress between 'Mixed Climb' and 'Knick Knack'

The intimidating wide crack on right wall of 'Mixed Climb', initialled KK. Originally done with a cramped belay at the alcove at 12m.

Descent from large slings next to dead tree on 'Mixed Climb'.

Start: Crack 6 metres right of 'Mixed Climb'. Clear initials KK

Some great climbing, particularly on the first pitch.

Start: Right of the overhangs right of 'Knick Knack'.

1. 35m (20) Up with poor pro to steep fern-choked corner. Swing out left onto undercut nose on arete. Up arete to regain crack above the ferns. Continue past dangerous hanging blocks and up left-facing corner.

2. 40m (17) Up left side of block and crack above. Step right and climb steep corner-crack. Exit up right to large ledge.

3. 12m (-) Juggy left arete to next large ledge.

4. 18m (19) Crack from middle of ledge to largest roof. Exit right up steep crack.

It is hard to believe that this was once a relatively popular climb. The first pitch is more like a garden fernery than a climb.

1. 33m (20) Traverse into the line from the right. Bridge between the corner and a pinnacle on the right and up over ferns for 10 metres or so. Up left to sloping ledge. Widening crack on left wall for 8 metres to chimney. Step up left to ledge.

2. 45m (-) Chimney, passing behind chockstones and finish up corner above.

3. 27m (-) Climb undercut hand-crack just left of large tree at back of terrace then veer right and easily up the as for the last little bit of 'Mixed Climb'.

The L-most line on the wall takes the far L edge of the steep band of rock. Bolt anchors on the ledge. Has currently only been top-roped.

Take a 70m rope (or two shorter ropes). The top half, in particular, of this long, technical pitch is delightful. Heads up easily enough to gain the base of a left-facing corner. The rock in the upper section is exquisite. 12 BRs to double rings.

Start in the middle of the south face of the gully, opposite a small alcove formed by left and right facing corners. James McIntosh, Glen Donohue, Nick Ping, Andrew Webb. 8.3.98

Top-roped only

Start: As for Vote of No Confidence Follow the line all the way. Two crux’s - at the first roof and the headwall, especially the exit.

To commemorate Greg Child’s 36th birthday. First line at left end of cliff, left of huge overhangs. Take a #3½ SLCD. Right-facing corner to roof. Traverse right under it. Up thin crack, step right up corner.

Good position. Left arête of The Flying Game. Starts in corner at thin seam on left side of arête. A few hurried moves bring you right on to arête, then up staying right of arête.

The ‘distinctive off-width’ between Red Sky (actually 16 rather than 13/14 incidentally) and Writers’ Block in fact requires no off-widthing. Take a #4SLCD and a #2 Big Bro (#5 SLCD size).

Climb finger-crack as for Waiting For Mars. Climb right break in overhang,then take line of least resistance on wall above.

Good climbing but not easily protected.Step off block across trench a few metres right of the above climb and climb up left on wall into cave. Step right and climb groove.

Start at the first prominent corner fine. Up steep corner and through bulge near top (the first ascent was done in two pitches).

Beguiling overhanging crack leading to steep wall climbing with a sting in the tail. Recommended. Line 4m right of Redundancy Package.

Excellent crack right of Bum Steer.

Short corners 50m left of Geriatricks. Finish up right-facing corner below tree.

‘The only way to overcome temptation is to yield to it.’ Oscar Wilde. Up bulging wall 2m right of Wimping Out and just left of cave.

Take the biggest pro (to 18cm!). Off-width behind pinnacle between Jodd and Solid As A Rock.

Middle of face then small left-facing corner about 170m left of Grrr (on left-hand cliff). This climb is at left end of wall capped by roof.

Indeed. Poor pro but good climbing. Seamed arête 2m right of Grrr.

Short but good. Cairned. Prominent, black, right facing corner 40m up right of Humping In Cornwall. Tricky exit.

Cairned. Slender buttress split by crack/seam below and just right of It Ended With A Bang. (Rope thrown over nearby branch to protect start.)

Excellent, black finger-crack in corner above block 10m right of Vesuvius. Abseil from tree on ledge.

Steep and exciting climbing. Near right side of highest and steepest but-tress are two pinnacles against face. From top of right one, climb wall to line which leads to overhang immediately left of landmark guano stain. Traverse left to bottomless line. Pull up into this, then step right above overhang into crack (some loose rock). Finish up this line.

Similar to A Whole Generation Lost in Space. Cairned. Line right of A Whole Generation Lost In Space. Up easily to roof. Step left to cave. Steep cracks. Exit right at final roof.

Shares Kowloon Crack for 3m, then breaks left on to beautiful orange face with good features. Delicate move leads past FH to small wires and top (there is now a double ring abseil which services Kowloon Crack, Rasta Rant and Tao Master - 12m to ground)

a fun face climb in a similar vein to 'Broken China' - good protection. Double ropes handy.

Start: wall just left of arete of 'Broken China' Buttress.

1. 40m (19) Up and left below bulge at 30m. Continue up steep seem and over overhang at top.

2. 10m (-) up and right

Small, orange corner 4m right of Dim Sim. Continue up left side of nose (belay possible here). Up

A steep, varied and interesting climb. Good protection. Easily climbed in a single pitch.

Start: Slightly left of where the track reaches the cliff is a slightly overhung v crack.

1. 15m (20) fun, albeit awkward & pumpy climbing leads to a small cave.

2. 15m (20) crack to overhang above second break. Step right to terrace.

More good face climbing. Start 2m right of Mes Amis (left side of arete/detached pillar). Hard start moves onto good stance and rest, followed by more tricky moves heading onto left face. Shares 1 bolt with Skinless Chicken with an option to additionally clip the first bolt of Skinless Chicken (Suggest extended draw if doing so to reduce rope drag).

Retro bolted and lower off added.

The first (left one) of three juggy cracks at right end of cliff. (First two don’t reach ground.) Boulder wall to foot of crack. Up this, then slightly right up tricky wall. Abseil bolts directly above. Pity whoever put these in and retroed the routes at the left hand end didn't add some bolts to the poorly protected finish of this and the routes to the right.

Thin, with spaced pro. Take small cams. Up slabby left arete of Socrophilliac for 12m to break (#4 cam), right 2m above break along thin, horizontal crack almost into Socrophiliac, then delicately to ledge. Left arete and over bulge.

Crack 4m right of Socrophiliac to break, right and up over bulge on arete to ledge. L to crack, up to short traverse into Socrophiliac.

Start Matched on the big juggy flake under the roof, move up & left through sloper to funky rail, then up and right through overhang on good holds to a bit of a spicy top out.

The R arete of the back of the Ceramics boulder, R of the tree, 3m of Broken China. Worth a pad or two to fill the landing.