Routes in Australia for selected grade

Finger/hand crack 7m left of Close To The Bone. When the crack finishes, traverse right quite a way (toward Close To The Bone) before tackling a short wall above to a ledge then eventually join Close To The Bone to the top.

"A most impressive crack which has been climbed by a very dubious mean. It will undoubtably be clibmed free in the future...". Ancient Gledhillian text. This is the climb that lends its name to this line of cliff. It takes the wide jagged crack which can be so easily seen from Flat Rock.

Start: Starts on the far right edge of the Clicke Cliff.

A slopey left-trending rampline starting in the middle of the Cut & Waste traverse line. Low sit-start then technical.

Sit starts just right of 'Sesame Superhighway' and climbs the series of jugs to a high finish. Descend via the righthand side.

Starts as for 'German Motivation' then goes straight up with a biggish move to good holds

Might deserve a star. Start in the cave as for Our House.

1. 15m (17) Traverse right and up to roofline. Step down to bottomless slab, then up and swing right to belay in cave above the overhanging scooped arete.

2. 7m (20) Head towards Horsham on the excellent intermittant flakes (#3.5 and #0.5 cams useful) and up to top.

Old school overhanging offwidth. Truly an amazing looking line. If you stand directly under the lip of the overhang, you're closer to that than the base of the climb!

Start: Starts 50m right of Pink Elephant at the right side of the sandy bouldering cave. Follow the hand-fist-offwidth crack that becomes a chimney through the overhang. Bring tubes, huge cams and the usual trad rack for the finish.

Start: Starts at the little grey undercut corner a little way left of 'Mujahideen'.

1. 20m (20) Up, then tend left taking the line of least resistance to the big ledge.

2. 10m (20) Crux. Take the twin face cracks on the rightward facing wall (left of the impressive blank corner). Move around left and up to big ledge.

3. 15m (15) Traverse easily left to the prominent line. Up this.

Attractive line - if you enjoy offwidths and runouts. The only viable route splitting the endless blankness on the far left side of White Wall. The hidden second pitch looks really good.

Start: Locate the major left facing flake crack / chimney about 10m left of 'Panama Canal' back at ground level. The end of the first pitch finishes on the belay ledge for 'Panama Canal'. If you can't find this go back to the gym.

1. 20m (20) Squeeze up behind the huge flake for 5m to ledge. Now layback the wide crack past a rusty BR and then easy but absorbing climbing to a spacious ledge. Some tiny SLCD are useful to protect the moves up to the bolt.

2. 24m (20) Step up from the large boulder and traverse left to the prominent right leaning corner. Station a battalion to take care of dissenters, then push on to the top to plant the flag. A great pitch on perfect orange rock. Seeps in winter.

The corner which veers left then back right to the top. Harder than it looks and a bit vegetated.

Start: About 30m right of 'Etendard', in the gully formed by the 'Moral Vandal' block the gully widens to permit climbing on the left wall. About 15m into the gully. Guidebook editor could not locate this climb!

Start off the ledge with a hard move to the pocket (if you're tall enough you can probably reach the pocket from the ledge): continue. Guidebook editor could not locate this climb.

Start: On the right of the gully a round boulder sits on a ledge 2m off the ground. Opposite the boulder is an overhanging line formed by an 'obvious' pocket, flake and crack through the bulge.

A novelty classic up an exposed prow.

Start: Start just left of the overhanging arete on the right side of the Echo's block, which is downhill and 15m left from 'Rip Tide'. A faint painted 'cave' sign is visible at the start.

Not your average walk-in-the-park V1! 'Steep' - starting off the big 'hanging' fridge (a tad sandy) - then heading up via any holds of your choosing. Finish as for 'Fallen Cow'.

Scene of a mild bolt war when Nyrie Dodd retro-bolted this all trad route in 1990. The Nati crew (Steve Monks, HB et al) stormed the cliff in 1992 and removed the offending iron mongery and peace returned to the land.

Starts 3m right of 'Curvaceous' on the right side of the 'Red Wall'.

The arete leading to a mantle on the leftside of the cave. Start matching on the block, then head up via a 'rib' feature, finishing via a mantle topout. An easier (V0) version is to head left at the sloper (thereby missing out the rib feature).

When meandering to The Disgruntler, you may come across this exfoliating boulder. On north side, sit start matched in pocket with high right footer. One or two punchy moves.

A good route up a major water streak on far right end of crag 7m right of 'The Snatch' below a broken easy corner.

Great climbing, and deservedly popular. Starts 0.5m L of little tree.

Drought conditions only! And take brackets for the bolts. The black gritty water streak 3m left of Koalasquasty. Medium wires protect the moves to the first BR, then layaway and stem up the subtle line past another two BRs. #1 SLCD in horizontal for finish move onto belay ledge. Rap off chain.

A big low traverse left from the chockstone belay then up the grey juggy wall. Tricky mantle to finish.

Starts on the chockstone down in the slot. Very pleasant right trending wall climbing with a punchy pumpy finish.

Start 2-3 metres left of McHammer at small orange scoop and orange streak below the horizontal crack. Climb directly up a series of the larger short and manic crack lines. A steep exciting end. A large lose block sitting comfortably at the top of this climb is tempting to use as a hold. The McHammer chains can be used after a short right traverse.

Grey slightly overhung gritty wall climbing. This climb is a very good warm-up for harder routes in the area at it is pumpy with no sharp holds. Originally a trad route.

U-bolts up the blank slab just right of the jugs of Strong Social Conscience. Follow bolts up the slab to arête, trying to avoid going too far left into the chasm. A hard move at top of arête leads up the wall above. Finish at double U-bolt anchor.

Pumpy and a touch contrived at one point. Starts as Puddlejugs. Up for 7m to the exposed ledge on the arete (bring some trad if you want pro up to here). Clip high FH and thug up steep jugs on right side of arete and then onto the arete proper.

The right leading line of u-bolts leading to Revenge of the Chickens anchor.

Climb Left of the bolts at the 1st and 2nd bolt. Traverse right when your hands are level with 3rd bolt (essentially the lowest possible traverse line).

Warning : if you choose to climb up high then traverse right (the higher traverse line) you may not be able to clip the 3rd bolt, as this bolt will be positioned below your feet. At this point you are facing a ground fall.

Up off-width groove 2m right of 'Physical Graffiti' and swing right to ledge. Diagonally up wall to elegant flake. Up.

Small north facing steep wall on terrace opposite Summa's a Bummer. X cracks on left side of wall.

First pitch is sustained quality at about 16. However, the second pitch is 20+ depending on your height (can be bypassed). Start at the grey arete immediately right of the 'hole' in the cliff. 1) 30m. Straight up to large ledge below overhangs. 2) 10m. Lunge or boulder straight up to jugs on lip of roof and continue to top.

Start behind (now burnt) pine trees at the far L end of the 3rd tier (at the head of a minor gully). Up R to a blunt arete and past a bolt to the top.

Little wall to the left and in front of the main wall. Straight up via good holds to ledge. Up through orange scoops to juggy arete. Up and over the lip to the right to anchors.

Looks totally worthless, but has an intense section of climbing that's much better than it looks. Up easy ramp just L of chimney, awkward moves around roof into thin slanting crack, which is followed to easier ground. Quite independent of KOFTSW until the last 10m or so.

Finger / corner crack immediately on the R side of the chimney corner.

Starts on the RH end of the block that forms the top half of Septic Crank. Up arete, past a bolt runner to the top.

On the East facing block just above and R of SC. Can also be approached from the top of the gully of the 3 Tiers. The slanting crack up the middle of the wall.

Up the central grey weakness moving slightly right near the top of the orange rock

Start: The grey line 10m left of the corner of 'Furry around the Edges'

Porly protected.

Start: Initialed with white paint. Up short corner, traverse about 5m right on ledge (at 2m). Up corner/ flake and wall above. Walk off.

Consistently steep, fun climbing. 2m right of The Penguin. Steeply up right past bolts to better holds on big flake. directly up to anchors.

Sustained steep face climbing, one of the better routes on the cliff? Starts about 5m left of "The Riddler". Delicately up the wall, traversing up and left on good break past 3rd bolt to good clipping stance at 4th bolt. Straight up past 5th bolt to rap station.

Good steep sports fun. Sharp flake at the top. (Tumi is an Incan name for a sharp ceremonial golden knife)

Start: Just left of the middle of the wall is a thin rib/flake starting about half height.

This easier LHV of Loiterer finally provides the much needed warm-up at the cliff. Start directly as for We Like to Watch, or climb in easily right of the first FH. Follow WLTW to its big half way ledge. As for Loiterer, climb diagonally left past 2 FHs to the guano stained ledge. Clip the FH up right with a sling or long quickdraw. Loiter as long as you like, before traversing easily left to the black groove using big underclings. Clip the FH and up to the anchors.

The great line of the crag. It’s the major V corner referred to in the access notes in the guide.

1. 25m (crux) Up corner to ceiling then traverse right to arête.

2. 12m Arête

Steep exciting climbing with two cruxes. Overhanging seam 10m right of La Belle Époque and just left of the right arête of the main buttress of the cliff, then veer up left to overhangs. Exit up left through these via alcove. There is loose rock on the exit.

Up and right to break, right along break, up to next break, up to next break, right to gully.

Start: Start at 'Easy Arete'

The original description was written up six years after the climb was done, so is a tad vague. Head up diagonally left along a narrow ramp at the lip of the retaining wall of a sickle feature. Roughly follow the sickle feature up the walls (which are hard to protect) until it’s possible to move up right on a large vegetated ramp.

Start 50m to the right of Gariwerd Dreaming. Climb up 2m to an undercut wall then step onto the natural cairn feature and breach the bulge. Climb the wall on pockets until they become slopes then move right and up to a rest. Head up the overhanging crack-line left of the corner and then up a groove in the wall above. Continue up until the groove peters out and move right to a left-trending crack system that leads to the top.

Climb up 3m right of Perfumed Garden. Follow the seam on the left to the top.

Major wide corner right of Full Metal Underpants. It’s a great line, but most of us don’t own the gear needed to lead it. Take 1 x #3 Big Bro, Camalots 2 x #3, 3 x #4, 1 x #5, and a light rack of wires and small cams (or a top rope). If you’ve got the gear, and still want to do the climb, proceed as follows:

1. 15m Up easily to foot of line. Right facing fla ke to bushy ledges. Up to foot of main corner.

2. 20m (crux) Up, you shouldn’t get lost.

Absorbing thin climbing on smears and ripples between TKTE and the moss streak . Start a few metres to the right of TTKE.

1. Easy climbing past five FH to DBB (25m, 10)

2. Step 3m right and carefully balance your way up the face. Don’t be tempted by the crack near the top; only join TKTE at the FH at the roof. Finish up TKTE. (11 FH, 35m, 20)

Lovely face climbing on good edges, although the crux is an alarming step with no hands. The fingertip ledge is a relief once you can reach it, but you still have to mantle it. Avoid shuffling left to the bigger ledge for the full effect. Start 7m to the right of BWR, slightly to the right of the bush on the ledge above.

1. Good quality rock scrambling with sufficient cams for protection to DRB (25m, 11)

2. Thin face moves allow you to gain a short vertical seam which is followed to a good foot rail. Traverse 2-3m left to reach more positive edges, then directly up the steepening face. Final moves as per BWR (8FH, 35m, 20)

Reminiscent of Blimp at Bundaleer. To the right of the main Briggs Bluff face, the cliff curves around to face north west (overlooking Rose Gap), and diminishes in height. About 70m right of the bend is a major corner with a yellow wall on the right and a grey wall (undercut by cave) on the left. There is a 3m roof about 2/3 of the way up the corner. Step into the corner from the left, up and around roof, being careful of rope drag, then exit right on a ledge. Either scramble up right on jugs, or abseil 25m from tree (2m long sling needed).

Excellent climbing with a thrilling roof on the third pitch. The poor rock on the start could be avoided by traversing in from the cave on the left. Start 60m left Redfern Estate and 15m right of a huge cave. Look for small twin recessed corners starting at 15 m and a cairn on the ground.

1. 35m Up seam to break, move right then up the left hand corner.

2. 20m The line above the tree. Belay under the big roof.

3. 30m (crux) Through the roof then up easily.

A nice feature spoilt by a scary start and less than great rock. Take the steep right hand arete of the small buttress just right of 'Shades of Black'. Scramble in to start across choss from the right. Up arete steeply to the ledge and then up face above on jugs. To avoid rope drag you can split this into two short pitches.

Interesting wall climbing with much suspect rock. Starts about 10m right of Pining for the Fiords (7m L of KK) at the left most black streak that reaches the ground (flows out of a small wind blown scoop immediately left of a large pile of boulders). Up 4m to the small bush on right. Traverse left for 4m along the break then straight up the wall above to finish just left of the dead tree at the top of the cliff.

About 30m R of Right Crack is a deep chimney [the R hand of 2 chimneys on this cliff]. Climb the overhung stepped corner on the L side of this chimney.

Nice corner line, with a thin start, and a piton! You can top out, or traverse R at the top to the loweroff on Beestburgers.

Line just R of Beestburgers. Easily up into corner, then up to slightly runout wall climbing (some thin wires in between the FH's).

Nice slab/wall climb. Over steep start, then balance onto slab and across to FH. Up corner, then up the line until another FH leads you into the top corner. Once you gain the arete it's a bit sandy to finish. Rap anchor is 35m from the ground, a 60m rope may not quite make it.

A good line, and a slightly more enjoyable way to go to get to the final crack of Lost on Migration. Start just down and L of '40 is the new 23', up L into corner, then over bulge to a rest (and a high wire on the L), now traverse R and up into LOM.

Nice climbing up snaking line. About 5m R of '40 is the new 23'. Take the L line at first overlap, up the corner a few moves, then carefully traverse L onto small ledge and up widening crack above.

Obvious, smooth, blimp-like corner on the upper tier, about 100m south of the creek.

The next two routes are about a kilometre from No Gnus is Good Gnus. From the track junction above Wildebeest, follow the main track NW for 500m to an orange stone fireplace. Scrub bash north down into a gully then down the gully to the top of the cliff (10 min from track). The climbing is on the portion of the cliff to your right (facing out), and the best descent is at the far end. Cliff faces NW.

Start 5m right of the cave nearest the left end of the cliff (cairn). Up face for 12m to where it blanks out. Move left past loose looking flake, then up seam.

About 150m right of Détente and just right of a chimney corner is a thin left facing dihedral corner. Up this and straight through the bulge. (James lowered off half way up leaving the rope on the route, and Chris lead through).

Climb up the right side of Split Pinnacle through a bulge, then move left around to the front and up to a ledge. Continue up to the diagonal break that goes across the ceiling, head along this and onto the face, then move hastily to the top.

This is the major line 4m right of Going Over To Susan's House and 4m left of The Song Of The Lamb.

1. 40m (Crux) Easily climb up to the overhanging rock, then head up and left to the foot of the crack in the steepest section. Climb up this and the line above to a body-chimney then step left to a ledge.

2. 30m Move left to the next line, climb up for 10m, then head over to an abseil tree on the left.

4m right of A Senior's Moment and 2m left of Easy Options is a major line on lichenous rock. Take one each of a Camelot #4 and #5.

1. 20m (Crux) Head up the thin crack until it becomes steeper. Move right and up the seam to a distinctive off-width crack that goes through the steepest area. Belay at a small stance 5m higher.

2. 12m Continue up the line to a small stance in the black right-facing corner.

3. 25m Head up the corner on the right for 4m, then up its right arete to a ledge. Move 2m right, then up the arete.

28 metres left of The Silent Miaow, and left of the centre of the cliff are some steeper, less broken walls before some overhangs. There are a couple of boulders leaning against the right side of the face. Climb up the left side of the boulders to continue up the right-leaning hanging corner line to a ledge on the right. Abseil from a small tree.

This is another major line, 6m right of Easy Options and has a cairn at its base.

1. 25m (Crux) Climb the difficult-to-protect right-facing corner, then continue up the major crack above to the ledge on top of Easy Options.

2. 25m Above are two lines. Climb the left one, which has great rock. When it finishes, head straight up the slabby face.

Approximately 30m right and uphill of Blue Sky Mining is a small orange corner with a thin pillar in it. Climb this to a bulge. Head left and then up the slab and pillar above. Follow the ramp right to a large ledge.

20m up right of Freestone is a black wall with an orange steak in the middle. Climb the right side of the wall until you can traverse left past the top of the orange streak to the point where the angle relents, then head up.

To reach 2001, walk left from the terrace where the previous routes start. Traverse up left to join Ground Control To Major Tom.

Takes the steep corner and roof 3m R of GDWTS

1. 30m Up the wall and squeeze past a large gum tree. Out R to groove and up to roof, though break and on to belay.

2. 30m Traverse L for 2m then up through major fault in the overhangs above and on to belay.

This is an orange wall with a black streak and a crack up its centre.

1. 30m Up the short corner to the orange wall. Up this [crux] then through a small overhang. Up to belay

2. 30m Straight up to overhang, traverse L with difficulty then up.

At the left end of the cliff there is a section high up with a couple of square cut corners and walls (most visible as you walk up to the cliff). Below these is an orange roof line above slabby rock. Start be low the lowest part of these roofs.

1. 40m. Easy line on left then up slab to the roof, follow roof line up and left to ledge, left on this to tree.

2. 10m (crux) Step left to thin crack, up.

3. 10m. Arête behind tree at back of ledge, finishing rightward.

Left arête of buttress 4m right of Blinded By The Moon. Arête past FH to ledge. Move right to parallel thin cracks, up these then back left above bulge to finish up middle of buttress.

Three metres right of Michael Collins. Up orange groove and crack through bulge. Up to next bulge, step left and pull through bulge. Take top bulge at seam near right arête.

Climbs the highest and nicest part of the lower wall. Up wide crack to ledge. Up line in loose slab to nice orange rock. Climb right side of this to big break (#4 cam) then crank up bulging thin line above on small wires to top and tree belay.

2m left of ZG. Start as for Sea of Tranquility but heads up and right to FH. Up hard wall then twin seams above keeping left of Zero Gravity. A bit contrived.

Thin start with limited protection to break then more hard moves to seam and jugs. Up reachy bulgy wall to rap station on ledge.

Thin start with limited protection to break then more hard moves to seam and jugs. Up reachy bulgy wall to rap station on ledge.

3m left of ST. Great seam and face on left side of the wall. From large block step across to crack and motor up this to blank section. Over this (crux) then up to jugs. Into faint corner (FH) and up to break. Step right and climb bulge and sloping face to top. Rap off anchors above Sea of Tranquility.

A relatively serious and dirty undertaking up a prominent line. On the lower section of the upper cliff are two prominent diagonal lines. CZ takes the right hand one.

1. 25m (crux) From cave below line, climb wall to horizontal break. Right in this to diagonal crack. Up this to ledge with tree.

2. 15m Escape moss, off widths, overhangs and soft rock above by going up right on easy ramp!

More excellent face climbing, up from the toe of the buttress eight metres left of WPW. Protection is fiddly to place. Cairned. Shallow grooves to rest, then easier up middle of buttress.

More nice face climbing. The upper half is a bit hard to protect. Takes the left side of the wall around left of Stiff Little Fingers, starting behind the prominent small pinnacle left of SLF. Follow the series of cracks about two metres tight of the arête, then the scooped face above and slightly left (#1 flexible Friend towards the top).

Major buttress 70m left of Marmalade with a substantial tree at half height (landmark). Needs care with pro above tree. Crack in the middle of the face to horizontal break. Right to tree. Up and left to next break. Finish up left side of headwall. Belayed descent from pinnacle.

Sustained climbing up a good seam. Reach over the overhang as for Dixie’s Girl but then continue straight up thin crack & seam above.

One-move wonder, but a hard one. At left end of best section of lower cliff is a pinnacle with a cave behind it on right. Easily up left arête of pinnacle to shallow, brushed groove on left. Finish up this. Abseil descent.