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Im extremen Fels - 100 legendäre Kletterführen in den Alpen

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121
  • Publisher: KiHa
  • Area: Europe
  • Routes: 121
  • Permissions: Public
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Europe

This list includes all the routes from Walter Pause's famous book »Im extremen Fels«, including those from Christoph Klein's updated edition.

Im extremen Fels

Author(s): Christoph Klein & Jürgen Winkler

Date: 2023

ISBN: 978-3-95611-182-2

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As some routes have been affected by rockfall, it is advisable to check for descriptions of recent ascents at Extreme collect if needed.

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Thanks to Stefan for his comments

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Details Route / Area
  France Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes Écrins L'Olan
1
Trad {UIAA} 8 Couzy/Desmaison
2
Trad 5c Devies/Gervasutti
  France Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur Briançon (Hautes Alpes) Vallouise Ailefroide Ailefroide Occidentale
3
Trad 5b Devies/Gervasutti
  France Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes Écrins Bassin du Glacier Noir Pic Sans Nom
4
Trad 5c George/Russenberger
  France Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes Écrins Barre des Écrins 4,102m
5
Trad 5a Pilier Sud / Franco
  France Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes Écrins La Meije
6
Trad 800m {UIAA} 6- ★★★ Voie directe Allain (face sud)
  Italy Val d'Aosta Mont Blanc Aiguille Noire du Peuterey
7
Trad 5a Cresta Peuterey / Cresta Sud
8
Trad 7a Via Ratti-Vitali
  France Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes Savoie Chamonix area Massif du Mont Blanc Mont Blanc 4808m
9
Alpine 900m ED1 5c ★★★ Freney Pillar
  France Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes Savoie Chamonix area Massif du Mont Blanc Mont Blanc du Tacul 4248m
10
Alpine 600m 5c D ★★★ Arête du Diable
  France Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes Savoie Chamonix area Massif du Mont Blanc Grand Capucin
11
Alpine 350m, 15 7a Voie Bonatti - Ghigo
12
Alpine 300m, 11 6b+ ★★★ O sole mio
13
Alpine 300m, 11 6b ★★★ Voie des Suisses
  France Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes Savoie Chamonix area Massif du Mont Blanc Grandes Jorasses
14
Alpine 1200m ED ★★★ North face / Walker spur
15
Alpine 5c Eperon Croz
  France Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes Savoie Chamonix area Massif du Mont Blanc Petit Jorasses
16
Alpine 750m, 22 5c - 6a ★★★ Voie Contamine
  France Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes Savoie Chamonix area Massif du Mont Blanc Les Aiguilles de Chamonix Versant Chamonix / Chamonix side Aiguille de Blaitière Face Ouest de Blaitière (W Face)
17
Trad 6b+ Brown-Whillans
  France Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes Savoie Chamonix area Massif du Mont Blanc Petit Dru 3733m
18
Alpine 5c A1 Pilastro Bonatti

not climbable anymore

19
Alpine 850m, 18 TD ★★★ N-face - P.Allain /Leninger
20
Alpine 1100m ED ★★★ american direct
  France Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes Savoie Chamonix area Massif du Mont Blanc Argentiere glacier Droites 4000 m
21
Trad 5c Tournier-Authenac
  Switzerland Alpen Wallis Visp Baltschiedertal Bietschhorn
22
Trad 4b Stockhorn-Bietschhorn Überschreitung

Two parts: Stockhorn S-ridge + Bietschhorn SE-ridge

  Switzerland Alpen Berner Oberland Scheideggwetterhorn
23
Trad 23 5c+ Direkte Nordwand
  Switzerland Alpen Berner Oberland Engelhörner Kingspitz
24
Trad 770m, 20 {UIAA} 7- ★★★ Kingspitze-Nordostwand
  Switzerland Alpen Berner Oberland Telltistock
25
Trad 6a+ Inwyler-Bielmeier
  Switzerland Alpen Zentralschweiz Göscheneralp Salbit Salbitschijen Westgrat
26
Trad 1600m, 32 6b ★★★ Westgrat
  Switzerland Alpen Zentralschweiz Furkagebiet Graue Wand
27
Trad 430m, 11 5c+ ★★★ Graue Wand (Niederman-Sieber)
  Switzerland Alpen Graubünden Bregaglia Piz Badile
28
Trad 800m, 21 6a ★★★ Via Cassin
  Switzerland Alpen Graubünden Bregaglia Piz Cengalo
29
Trad 5b Nordwestpfeiler Gaiser-Lehmann
  Switzerland Alpen Graubünden Bregaglia Pizzi Gemelli
30
Mixed trad 300m, 12, 12 5b ★★ Bugeleisen
  Switzerland Alpen Graubünden Bregaglia Sciora group Pioda di Sciora
31
Trad 6b+ Fuorikante / Nordwestkante
  Switzerland Alpen Zentralschweiz Wägital Bockmattli Gross Bockmattliturm Nord
32
Trad 430m, 11 6a+ ★★ Direkte Nordwand
  Switzerland Alpen Appenzeller Alpen Churfirsten Zuestoll
33
Trad 390m, 13 6b ★★ Alte Süd
  Switzerland Alpen Appenzeller Alpen Alpstein Rot Turm
34
Mixed trad 240m, 6, 10 6b ★★★ Südwand

Combined with Hundstein - Südverschneidung

  Switzerland Alpen Appenzeller Alpen Alpstein Hundstein
35
Mixed trad 8, 7 5c+ ★★★ Südverschneidung

Combined with Rot Turm - Südwand

  Switzerland Alpen Appenzeller Alpen Alpstein Kreuzberge II. Kreuzberg
36
Mixed trad 390m, 12, 10 6a Südwandverschneidung
  Switzerland Alpen Graubünden Prättigau Rätikon South Drusentürme Süd Großer Drusenturm
37
Trad 430m, 12 6a+ ★★★ Schweizerpfeiler
  Switzerland Alpen Graubünden Prättigau Rätikon South Sulzfluh SW-Wand
38
Sport 290m, 9 6a ★★★ Austriakenriss / Direkte Südwestwand
  Switzerland Alpen Graubünden Prättigau Rätikon South Schijenfluh
39
Trad 340m, 10 7a Westverschneidung
  Austria West Lechtaler Alpen Freispitze
40
Trad 6+/7- ★★★ Schreck Heel
  Germany Allgäu Oberallgäu Schneck
41
Trad 260m, 6 6+ Ostwand
  Germany Allgäu Oberallgäu Himmelhorn
42
Trad 340m, 10 6 Rädlergrat
  Austria West Allgäuer Alpen Tannheimer Berge Rote Flüh
43
Sport 250m, 7, 36 6+ ★★ Südverschneidung
  Germany Oberbayern Werdenfelser Land Wettersteingebirge Oberreintal Oberreintaldom
44
Trad 300m, 9 6+ ★★★ Gonda / Nordverschneidung
  Germany Oberbayern Werdenfelser Land Wettersteingebirge Oberreintal Unterer Schüsselkarturm
45
Mixed trad 220m, 8, 25 6+ ★★★ Schober
  Austria West Wetterstein und Mieminger Kette Schüsselkarspitze Südwand Hauptwand
46
Trad 400m, 12 7- Südostwand (Peters-Haringer)
47
Trad 90m, 2 7- ★★★ Pfeilerrisse
  Austria West Wetterstein und Mieminger Kette Scharnitzspitze
48
Trad 200m, 8 7 ★★★ Spitzenstätter
  Austria West Stubaier Alpen Stubaital Große Ochsenwand
49
Trad 7- Kalte Kante / NO-Kante
50
Trad 7+ Huber/Zechel / Gerade Nordostwand
  Austria West Karwendel Lalidererspitze
51
Trad 1000m 7 Direkte Nordwand / Rebitsch/Spiegl
52
Trad 1300m 6 Schmid/Krebs
  Austria West Karwendel Kleiner Lafatscher
53
Trad 420m, 10 6 ★★★ Lafatscher NO-Verschneidung / Riesenverschneidung
  Austria West Rofangebirge, Brandenberger Alpen Rofan Seekarlspitze
54
Trad 6+ Ypsilon-Riss
  Austria West Zillertaler Alpen Valsertal Fußstein
55
Trad 540m 5- ★★★ Nordkante / Fußsteinkante
  Austria West Zillertaler Alpen Valsertal Sagwandspitze
56
Trad 6 Aschenbrenner-Mariner / Nordpfeiler
  Austria West Zillertaler Alpen Zillertal Zsigmondyspitze
57
Trad 5+ Feldkopfkante
  Austria West Zillertaler Alpen Zillertal Zillergrund Grundschartner
58
Trad 810m, 18 6 ★★★ Nordkante
  Austria West Kaisergebirge Wilder Kaiser Totenkirchl Westwand
59
Trad 750m, 20 6+ ★★★ Direkte Westwand / Dülferführe
  Austria West Kaisergebirge Wilder Kaiser Fleischbank Ostwand
60
Trad 500m, 14 6 ★★★ Dülferführe / Ostwand
  Austria West Kaisergebirge Wilder Kaiser Fleischbank Südostwand
61
Mixed trad 330m, 25 7+ ★★★ Südostverschneidung
  Austria West Kaisergebirge Wilder Kaiser Vordere und Hintere Karlspitze
62
Trad 260m, 9 6+ ★★★ Alte Ostwand "Göttner"
  Austria West Kaisergebirge Wilder Kaiser Predigtstuhl
63
Trad 260m, 8 6+ ★★★ Schüle-Diem/Haslacher-Behringer
  Austria West Kaisergebirge Wilder Kaiser Bauernpredigtstuhl
64
Trad 220m, 6 7- ★★★ Lucke-Strobl-Riss
  Austria West Kaisergebirge Wilder Kaiser Maukspitze
65
Trad 560m, 15 6+ A0 ★★★ Buhl / Mauk-Westwand
  Germany Oberbayern Berchtesgadener Land Reiteralpe Wartstein
66
Trad 200m 7- ★★★ Wartsteinkante
  Germany Oberbayern Berchtesgadener Land Reiteralpe Großes Grundübelhorn
67
Trad 8- Südverschneidung
  Germany Oberbayern Berchtesgadener Land Reiteralpe Großes Mühlsturzhorn
68
Trad 330m 6+ A0 ★★ Direkte Südkante
  Germany Oberbayern Berchtesgadener Land Göllmassiv Westwand
69
Mixed trad 450m, 16, 1 7+ ★★★ Kleiner Trichter
  Austria Mitte-Nord Berchtesgadener Alpen Hochkönig Massive Hochkönig
70
Trad 650m, 18 6+ ★★★ Gloria Patri
  Italy Trentino-Alto Adige Trentino Dolomiti di Brenta Torre d Ambiez
71
Trad {UIAA} 6+ Via della Concordia
  Italy Trentino-Alto Adige Trentino Dolomiti di Brenta Crozzon di Brenta
72
Trad 800m {UIAA} 6+ A1 ★★ Pilastro Francese / Franzosenpfeiler
  Italy Trentino-Alto Adige Trentino Dolomiti di Brenta Campanile Basso
73
Trad 450m, 13 {UIAA} 5- ★★ Fehrmannverschneidung / Diedro Fehrmann-Smith / Southwest Dihedral
  Italy Trentino-Alto Adige Trentino Dolomiti di Brenta Brenta Alta Parete Nord
74
Trad {UIAA} 7+ Via Oggioni-Aiazzi
75
Trad {UIAA} 6+ Detassis
  Italy Trentino-Alto Adige Südtirol Val di Fassa Gruppo del Catinaccio Roda de Vaèl Parete Ovest
76
Trad {UIAA} 8 Hermann-Buhl-Gedächtnisweg / Brandler/Hasse
  Italy Trentino-Alto Adige Südtirol Val di Fassa Gruppo del Catinaccio Cima Catinaccio Parete Est
77
Trad 730m, 20 {UIAA} 6- ★★★ East Face, "Steger"
  Italy Trentino-Alto Adige Südtirol Gruppo del Sassolungo Campanile Comici
78
Trad {UIAA} 6+ Via Comici
  Italy Trentino-Alto Adige Südtirol Gruppo del Sella Piz Ciavazes
79
Trad 380m, 13 {UIAA} 6 ★★★ Via Micheluzzi / The Big Micheluzzi / Micheluzzi-Führe
  Italy Veneto Marmolada/Civetta/Pale di San Martino Marmolada South Face of Marmolada Punta Rocca
80
Sport 800m {UIAA} 6+ ★★★ Vinatzer-Messner
81
Trad {UIAA} 7 Via Gogna
  Italy Veneto Marmolada/Civetta/Pale di San Martino Marmolada South Face of Marmolada Punta Penia
82
Trad {UIAA} 7- Via Soldà
  Italy Veneto Marmolada/Civetta/Pale di San Martino Pale di San Martino Sass Maor
83
Trad {UIAA} 6+ Via Solleder
  Italy Veneto Marmolada/Civetta/Pale di San Martino Pale di San Martino Cima Canali
84
Trad 500m, 15 {UIAA} 5+ ★★★ Buhl-Riss
  Italy Veneto Marmolada/Civetta/Pale di San Martino Gruppo Agner Monte Agner
85
Mixed trad 1600m, 35, 30 {UIAA} 6- ★★★ North ridge, via Gilberti/Soravito
  Italy Veneto Marmolada/Civetta/Pale di San Martino Pale di San Lucano Spiz di Lagunàz
86
Mixed trad 750m, 21, 20 {UIAA} 7+ Via del Gran Diedro Casarotto-Radin
  Italy Veneto Marmolada/Civetta/Pale di San Martino Pale di San Martino Campanile Alto di Lastei
87
Trad {UIAA} 7 Parete Ovest Pfeffer-Kaub
  Italy Veneto Marmolada/Civetta/Pale di San Martino Gruppo Civetta e Moiazza Torre Venezia
88
Trad 460m, 17 4c - 5c TD South face: Via Tissi

not climbable anymore

  Italy Veneto Marmolada/Civetta/Pale di San Martino Gruppo Civetta e Moiazza Torre Trieste
89
Trad {UIAA} 8 Carlesso-Sandri
  Italy Veneto Marmolada/Civetta/Pale di San Martino Gruppo Civetta e Moiazza Civetta
90
Trad {UIAA} 6 Solleder
  Italy Veneto Marmolada/Civetta/Pale di San Martino Gruppo Civetta e Moiazza Punta Civetta
91
Trad {UIAA} 6+ Andrich/Faè
  Italy Veneto Marmolada/Civetta/Pale di San Martino Gruppo Civetta e Moiazza Cima Su Alto
92
Trad 700m {UIAA} 8- Livanos

not climbable anymore.

Ratti / Vitali could be an alternative.

  Italy Veneto Marmolada/Civetta/Pale di San Martino Gruppo Civetta e Moiazza Torre di Valgrande
93
Trad {UIAA} 8 Via Carlesso
  Italy Veneto Cortina d'Ampezzo Area Monte Pelmo
94
Trad {UIAA} 6 Parete Nord - Rossi/Simon
  Italy Veneto Marmolada/Civetta/Pale di San Martino Monte Schiara
95
Trad {UIAA} 8+/9- Groß/Hiebler
  Italy Veneto Cortina d'Ampezzo Area Rocetta Alta di Bosconero
96
Trad {UIAA} 7- Navasa
  Italy Trentino-Alto Adige Südtirol Gruppo di Fanes Sass de la Crusc
97
Trad 500m {UIAA} 8- ★★★ Mittelpfeiler-Originalführe
98
Trad {UIAA} 8- Mayerlverschneidung

Initially listed by Pause as a variant, it was chosen by Klein as the sole route on the wall. Therefore, it has been added to this list as an independent route.

  Italy Trentino-Alto Adige Südtirol Gruppo di Fanes Cima Scotoni
99
Trad 620m, 16 {UIAA} 8- ★★★ Lacedelli
  Italy Veneto Cortina d'Ampezzo Area Gruppo Tofane Tofana di Rozes Pilastro della Tofana di Rozes
100
Trad 680m {UIAA} 6 ★★ Spigolo Costantini-Ghedina
  Italy Veneto Cortina d'Ampezzo Area Pomagagnon
101
Trad 480m {UIAA} 5+ ★★★ Via Jori / Fiameskante
  Italy Veneto Cortina d'Ampezzo Area Punta Tre Sorella
102
Trad {UIAA} 6- Comici
  Italy Veneto Cortina d'Ampezzo Area Tre Cime di Lavaredo Cima Ovest
103
Trad 660m, 14 {UIAA} 9- ★★★ Schweizer Führe / Schweizerdach
104
Aid 450m A5+ ★★★ Cassin, N.Face
  Italy Veneto Cortina d'Ampezzo Area Tre Cime di Lavaredo Cima Grande di Lavaredo Parete Nord
105
Trad 580m, 17 {UIAA} 8+ ★★★ Hasse-Brandler / Direttissima
106
Trad 540m, 17 {UIAA} 7 ★★★ Comici-Dimai / Comici / North Face "Comici"
  Italy Veneto Cortina d'Ampezzo Area Tre Cime di Lavaredo Cima Piccola
107
Trad 360m, 13 {UIAA} 6+ ★★★ Spigolo Giallo / Gelbe Kante / Yellow Edge
  Italy Veneto Cortina d'Ampezzo Area Einserkofel
108
Trad {UIAA} 6 Weg der Jugend
  Italy Veneto Cortina d'Ampezzo Area Zwölferkogel
109
Trad {UIAA} 7- Schranzhofer / Nordkante
  Austria Mitte-Süd Gailtaler Alpen Lienzer Dolomiten Laserz Nordwand
110
Trad 570m, 10 5+ Direkte Nordwand
  Italy Friuli-Venezia Giulia Alpi Giulie Jôf Fuart Torre delle madri dei camosci (2503 m)
111
Trad {UIAA} 7+ Deye/Peters
  Slovenia Julijske Alpe Špik
112
Trad {UIAA} 5+ Severna stena
  Austria Mitte-Nord Dachsteingebirge Gosaukamm Grosse Bischofsmütze Nordwand
113
Trad 8- Direkte Nordwand
  Austria Mitte-Nord Dachsteingebirge Gosaukamm Däumling
114
Mixed trad 380m, 14, 1 7- ★★★ Ostkante
  Austria Mitte-Nord Dachsteingebirge Torstein
115
Trad 7- Südverschneidung
  Austria Mitte-Nord Dachsteingebirge Hohes Dirndl
116
Mixed trad 810m, 22, 1 6 ★★★ Maixkante
  Austria Mitte-Nord Dachsteingebirge Großer Koppenkarstein
117
Sport 320m, 9 5 Hubsipfeiler
  Austria Ost Ennstaler Alpen Gesäuse Rosskuppe
118
Mixed trad 590m, 9 6+ ★★★ Rosskuppenkante
  Austria Ost Ennstaler Alpen Gesäuse Dachl
119
Mixed trad 370m, 9, 15 7+ A1 Diagonale
  Austria Ost Hochschwabgruppe Zentraler Hochschwab Stangenwand
120
Mixed trad 320m, 11, 9 6+ Südostwand
  Austria Ost Hochschwabgruppe Mitteralm Schartenspitze
121
Sport 180m, 6 7 Direkte Westkante

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