Ascents of Trente Six Soleils

Multiple areas of poor rock quality with danger of large size boulders falling on belayer

OVERAL: Very nice route, with distant but solid bolts and easy to place intermediate protections. The difficult moves are well protected. The wall is South Face exposed, therefore can be done only in winter times/cold days.

ROUTE: 1st - Climb vertical on easy terrain (5b) but distanced bolts to a ledge and then left to the anchore (bolted with maillon).

2nd - Climb above the anchor on vertical wall, well protected, possible to integrate, with one tricky move to stand up on a small ledge (6a+), then a traverse to the right, protected with a bolt but exposed move (6a) to the anchor (two bolts).

3rd - Go up the corner, 6a, (high bolt, can integrate) then traverse on a slab to the left, 6a (easy to place protections) to a belay station (bolted with chain).

4th - Vertical difficult climb (6b) with a bolt very low placed and slippery feet. Then straight up with no bolts but ok protections until another bolt. Then another physical move out on a slab (6a) to the right (anchor with bolts and maillon).

5th - Exposed traverse right with a bolt in the middle and tiny feed and holds (6a+/b), then easier terrain with a bolt and easy to protect. Reach almost the top of the wall going right. Here you can make an intermediate anchor on huge sandclocks or traversing left onto a ledge (huge rope drag) to the last anchor (one bolt and sandclocks with old ropes connecting).

ABSEIL: 1st abseil 40m to the start of the 4th pitch. 2nd abseil, with a bit of drag to the left, to the end of the 1st pitch. 3rd abseil to the ground

GEAR: 6 quickdraws, one set of cams small and middle sizes, 2x 60m ropes.