Angola Guide

Summary:

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Seasonality

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -12.160359, 17.052704

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -9.675239, 15.616674

summary

Pedras Negras is one of the best climbing areas in the country and a very unique area worldwide. Most similar to Meteora, Greece with conglomerate sandstone/cobble towers rising above the jungle.

One of the few 'tourist' areas in Angola, Pedras Negras is also one of the best climbing areas in the country and a very unique area worldwide. Most similar to Meteora, Greece, these rock towers vary in height from 70m-200m, with a fairly solid conglomerate consisting of a sandstone matrix and a variety of cobble types. Like every area in Angola, you will probably be the only climber in the area (probably for the whole year!), but Pedras Negras is one of the few places where you will see other foreign tourists visiting. Best time to climb is in the dry season (Cacimbo), from May to September. During the wet season, the vegetation is extremely thick and thunderstorms are common.

Warning: Thunderstorms move in very fast from behind the towers, so be ready to retreat on short notice. Rain showers are usually pretty quick and we just waited them out most of the time. When walking off trail, be wary of snakes. Both Black Mamba and cobras. I have seen cobras and pythons, so it's a real concern. Make a lot of noise and carry a long stick to beat the grass well in front of your path. Baboons are common and we have found leopard prints among the towers. however, it is extremely unlikely that a leopard would attack a group of climbers. If you are traveling with a pet or kids, however, I would not let them wander off too far in this area. Hopefully that goes without saying, but just in case...

approach

Currently, the best route from Luanda is through Dondo. At this time (2023) the pavement is good from Maria Teresa, all the way to Capanda. The last 20 minutes of driving from Capanda to the turn to Pedras Negras are on terrible pavement. This route takes 4 1/2 to 5 hours from Luanda. At the turn off to Pedras Negras there is a sign over the road indicating the entrance to the area. Continue on the road until you see the towers on the left (North). You'll need to follow the road into the middle of the rocks to speak to the village administrator about climbing and also to find a place to camp (sometimes the administrator lets us set up camp in the school yard).

Other options for staying are at the hotel in the city of Cacuso, or at the lodge at the Calandula waterfall.

where to stay

Camp in the school yard.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -9.651198, 15.587646

summary

Darth Vader is the PG name of this tower, but you will definitely recognize it when you see it. So far, no routes to the summit due to the lip of the 'helmet' surrounding the entire top of the tower.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -9.663596, 15.590974

summary

Sport climbing area established by Rui Araujo in 2012/2013.

description

Afternoon shade, so hike in from the village around 1pm. Take a machete and a lot of water. The multipitch Stegosaurus is nearby too.

approach

Follow the trail from the village well, up and over the rock shoulder. At this point, the jungle is likely overgrown. Find the old road through the flats, angling north, crossing a big flat clearing where no trees can grow and then continuing northwest. Once it opens to another clearing you'll see the cliff uphill above you.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -9.660673, 15.590798

approach

Follow the trail from the village well, up and over the rock shoulder. At this point, the jungle is likely overgrown. Find the old road through the flats, angling north, crossing a big flat clearing where no trees can grow and then continuing northwest. Once it opens to another clearing you'll see Paraiso uphill above you. Continue north along the rock, then cut across to the foot of Stegosaurus. Cross a dry stream bed and the ridge multipitch is right in front of you.

Summary:

Incredible free-standing tower at the leading edge of Pedras Negras. Overhanging on all sides, the tower looks like the mace of some giant cave man.

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -11.113091, 14.324776

summary

Beautiful valley with massive granite domes up to 1200 feet tall.

description

Beautiful valley with massive granite domes up to 1200 feet tall. Probably a lifetime of new route development still waiting here. Picturesque place to visit, with some small farms that operate guesthouses close to the rocks. Most of the domes are quite featureless, so the climbing is mostly bolted slab climbing.

Options to stay at the Fazenda Rio Uiri (recommended) or Fazenda Chinandala (Pousada do Engelo).

approach

Drive South from Luanda on the Luanda-Lobito road. After about 3 hours, you will pass Porto Amboim. From there begin looking for the road to Gabela and Binga Falls (good road with good signs). Take this road to the left and follow it over the top of Binga Falls (great rest stop) up into the mountains toward Gabela. Look for a sign to the right for Conda. A good road turns right (away from the Gabela road) back down the mountain to the river Queve (the same one that forms Binga falls). Cross the bridge over the Queve and continue a few km to the city of Conda. Continue South on the road and you will enter the valley where the majority of the big rocks reside. You cannot miss it.

where to stay

Fazenda Rio Uiri has rooms and camping.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -11.208623, 14.333329

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -11.212696, 14.324162

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -11.066396, 14.376916

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -11.243383, 14.368544

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -10.885387, 14.963050

summary

Wide province covering the rock band of granite domes.

description

No true climbing destination, but several road stops that are worth stopping for on your way to Conda.

approach

Approach from Luanda through Dondo and south to Quibala (passing Pedra Escrita), or from the coast, via Sumbe and Gabela (passing Condé).

Summary:

Lat / Long: -10.866500, 14.682553

summary

Wide open area with lots of granite domes. They look promising but upon closer inspection most seem to hold little but grassy chimneys or slabby faces. Perhaps more exploration would reveal more.

Summary:

Go down the highway from Luanda, turn off and head down to the beach.

summary

Medium quality limestone (some of which was quarried) above a very popular expat hangout.

description

In the afternoon, this shady crag offers a respite from the beach with an incredible view and sea breeze. Routes are short, but worth a visit if you are already going to be down at the beach surfing.

Comment: Stars are relative for the area, not relative for Angola. Just to give an idea of which routes are worth trying if you've only got 30 min of daylight after an epic surfing session.

approach

Park at Carpe Diem Eco Surf Camp above surfer's beach. The routes are on the cliff directly beside the parking lot. You can belay from your car.

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -15.117331, 13.474879

summary

Capital of Huila and one of the few tourist destinations in the country. Higher elevation keeps things cooler during the hot season.

description

Lubango is located on something of a plateau, roads leading out of town northwest and southwest reach the impressive cliff edge. Northwest brings you to Tundavala, while southwest leads to Serra da Leba.

Stay at one of the hotels in Lubango or camp at Restaurante Tundavala. The "Wild Camping Tundavala" on Google Maps does not exist anymore.

Summary:

Deep water soloing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: -15.515942, 12.668420

summary

Desert province in the southwest of Angola.

approach

Drive from Luanda via Benguela and Lubango. Currently the direct road from Benguela to Namibe is 4x4 only.

Summary:

Deep water soloing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: -14.748992, 12.289642

summary

Beautiful resort/campground. A massive monolith of rock in the ocean has a few nice DWS routes. An interesting sandstone formation on the beach has potential for bouldering.

approach

Map to the Praia do Soba resort, and download maps beforehand for the route there. There's currently no internet after leaving the city of Namibe or Serra da Leba. The final dirt road to the resort isn't bad and can be done with a 2-wheel drive car. If staying at the resort or camping, call ahead to reserve (although some success at camping has been had showing up and asking the guards).

where to stay

Stay at resort or camp at the very nice campground.

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -8.400431, 14.102560

summary

North of Luanda, a handful of granite towers await exploration.

approach

Take the highway leading north of Angola towards Caxito. The geological band of granite towers begins about 2 hours from Luanda. Past Caxito, turn north to Quicabo or continue east to Elephant Rock. For finding dirt roads beyond the paved roads that appear on Google Maps, it's useful to use an app like Gaia GPS to download satellite maps offline, and saving the coordinates of the rock towers beforehand. The easiest way to navigate here is following dirt roads on satellite imagery.

Summary:

Lat / Long: -8.540032, 14.008808

summary

Sunny, easy access. Large granite dome with steep face on the south side.

approach

Drive on the highway from Caxito towards Uige. After crossing the river, at the next town turn off the highway to the left (north). Follow the dirt road on satellite imagery. The rocks, of which Elephant Rock is the most prominent will soon be visible. Park and walk to the south face of the rock. The first route is in the center of the wall.

Summary:

Lat / Long: -8.240734, 13.869967

summary

Granite towers just north east of Luanda, very tropical area.

access issues

When arriving in the village, talk with the village chief and ask for permission to climb. Bringing a bottle of wine is customary.

approach

Drive to Quicabo and turn north. Follow the dirt road using satellite imagery to a small village Berila. Turn right between the houses and drive on another dirt track to Quinhanda. Continue in the same direction for another 1-2 km until the road ends and turns in to a trail, about 400m before the village spring.

where to stay

Luanda. Quicabo is about an hour north of Luanda on (as of 2024) decent roads.

history

P Murdock and co opened the first routes in the area in 2014.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -11.327061, 13.898356

summary

Capital of Kwanza Sul. Grutas de Sassa is just 10 kms east of the city. Rio Quicombo is 13 kms south of the city.

approach

4 hours south of Luanda on a good road.

Summary:

Lat / Long: -11.262484, 13.895652

summary

Limestone climbing in an incredible valley with a huge cave where the river once cut under the mountain.

description

Rock is a bit dirty and the climbing is mediocre, but the setting is incredible. The climbs are at the mouth of the cave which is nearly 200 ft tall and 70 feet wide. The cave maintains the same basic dimensions for 800m, with a sandy bottom, until it exits into the valley on the other side of the mountain. The river that formed the cave enters another cave (fully closed siphon) in the far valley and pops out right near the climbs. Incredibly beautiful area with good shade, but unfortunately the rock is a bit dirty and occasionally loose.

approach

See map. From Luanda, drive South through the town of Sumbe (~4hrs), at the exit of Sumbe, take a lefthand road (only paved road) just after the police checkpoint (direction Seles). Follow this road past a large cemetery and the Sumbe dump to a West to South 90 degree bend in the road. Exit the paved road to the West immediately after the turn and follow a dirt road until it's end. There is a parking area overlooking the valley. A good trail starts on the left side of the parking area. Follow it down into the valley and then left to follow the valley downstream (North) to the mouth of the cave. Currently (in 2023) the Google Maps directions to "Grutas da Sassa" take you down the wrong road. Map to the coordinates instead: -11.26297, 13.89207.

Note: The point on the map denotes the parking. so far, all climbing is in the "Cave Entrance" area that is noted on the map of that area. The trail is visible from satellite imagery and pretty obvious.

Summary:

Lat / Long: -11.324437, 13.842129

summary

Sandstone cliff faces on both sides of Rio Quicombo. Located at the bridge crossing the river.

approach

Drive 13 kms south of Sumbe to the bridge over Rio Quicombo. Park before crossing the bridge, routes are on the north side of the river.

Table of contents

1. Angola 59 routes in Region

1.1. Luanda 0 routes in Crag

1.2. Pedras Negras 14 routes in Area

1.2.1. Darth Vader 1 route in Crag

1.2.2. Paraiso 4 routes in Crag

1.2.3. Stegosaurus 1 route in Crag

1.2.4. The Whale 1 route in Crag

1.2.5. The Shield 1 route in Crag

1.2.6. Table Top 1 route in Crag

1.2.7. Overlook 2 routes in Crag

1.2.8. Torre N'lundi 3 routes in Crag

1.3. Conda 8 routes in Region

1.3.1. Cunduvile 5 routes in Crag

1.3.2. Umbi 1 route in Crag

1.3.3. Beehive Rock 1 route in Crag

1.3.4. Pedra Chicunda 1 route in Crag

1.4. Kwanza Sul 7 routes in Region

1.4.1. Condé 1 route in Area

1.4.2. Pedra Escrita 3 routes in Crag

1.4.3. Lupupa 3 routes in Area

1.5. Cabo Ledo 1 route in Area

1.5.1. São Brás 1 route in Crag

1.5.2. Praia Dos Surfistas 0 routes in Crag

1.5.3. Carpe Diem Eco Surf Camp 0 routes in Crag

1.6. Lubango 19 routes in Region

1.6.1. Serra da Leba 19 routes in Area

1.6.2. Tundavala 0 routes in Crag

1.7. Namibe 5 routes in Region

1.7.1. Praia do Soba 5 routes in Crag

1.8. Northern Bengo 2 routes in Area

1.8.1. Elephant Rock 1 route in Crag

1.8.2. Quicabo Towers 1 route in Area

1.9. Sumbe 3 routes in Area

1.9.1. Grutas da Sassa 2 routes in Crag

1.9.2. Rio Quicombo 1 route in Crag

1.9.3. Catanas Point 0 routes in Crag