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Tanzania Guide

Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Tanzania 230 routes in Region

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: -6.342246, 35.144435

1.1. Dar es Salaam 0 routes in Crag

1.2. Longido 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -2.691545, 36.703530

description

Longido lies just L of the main Nairobi-Arusha road, 25 km. S of the Namanga border post. It is a steep-sided hill, about 2600m. high, with bush on its lower slopes and forest higher up. There are 2 summits; the higher E top is heavily forested on all sides. The western has numerous crags; the biggest of these is almost 300m. high and faces the main road. Although Longido is in Tanzania the problems in getting there are slight. No special currency arrangements need be made and the border crossing is relatively straightforward. So far little climbing has been done on the cliffs and there appears to be potential for some fairly hard long climbs. (by Andrew Wielochowski)

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approach

25 km. S of Namanga the W face of Longido dominates the road. A radio station and reflector on the ridge above mark the access route to the central and S sections. A steep tarmac road leads from the main road up to the radio station in 2 km. There is a watchman here. Above this a clear rough path ascends to the reflector. 100m. below this traverse L and cross a stream bedtogain a ridge which soon gives easy access through shady forest to foot of the face. Crossing 2 further streams leads to a similar ridge rising to centre of the cliff. For the N end it is best to walk up game and cattle trails starting NW of the h ill. The walk up on any side takes about 4 h. Bivouacs below thecliffsareplentiful andpleasant, but there is no guarantee of water though a few seasonal streams do exist in the forest belt. It is possible to leave vehicles at the radio station. Garage facilities available in Namanga on the Kenyan side. Taking a vehicle across the border can be diffi - cult and a Tanzanian road tax of 1000 TSh must be paid (valid for 3 months). It is just as easy to leave a vehicle at Namanga and continue by matatu to Longido. The main W-facing cliff is cut by a prominent L to R diagonal fault. R. 114follows the most prominent chimney line in centre of the R-hand half of this cliff. The upper section quits the main chimney line and traverses R below huge roofs to find a spectacular escape to the summit ridge. (by Andrew Wielochowski)

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1.3. West Usambara - Mambo 0 routes in Crag

summary

This is a completely undeveloped cliff face with potential for multiple sport and / or trad routes (multi-pitch). Rock quality is very good and approach from Mambo View Point Lodge fairly easy (20 minutes walk in). Cliff height looks to be about 300m and 500m from left to right.

description

The Usambara Mountains of northeastern Tanzania in tropical East Africa, comprise the easternmost ranges of the Eastern Arc Mountains. The ranges of approximately 90 kilometres (56 mi) long and about half that wide, are situated in the Lushoto District of the Tanga Region. They were formed nearly two million years ago by faulting and uplifting, and are composed of Precambrian metamorphic rocks. They are split into two sub-ranges; the West Usambaras being higher than the East Usambaras, which are nearer the coast and receive more rainfall.

Mambo View Point Eco Lodge is situated on a 1900m high cliff and has a breathtaking view over the African plains in the northern part of the Usambara mountains. This little paradise is close to the village of Mambo, where the residents still live without running water or electricity.

access issues

Undeveloped. Land access, climbing, bolting, etc would need to be agreed with the local community

approach

Either rap in from the top or take the well to the base.

where to stay

Mambo View Point Eco Lodge which sits on the top of this cliff

ethic

No precedent set. Ideal for multi-pitch trad or sport climbing

1.4. West Usambaba - Lushoto 0 routes in Area

summary

This is a completely undeveloped area with potential for multiple sport and / or trad routes (multi-pitch). Rock quality is very good.

description

The Usambara Mountains of northeastern Tanzania in tropical East Africa, comprise the easternmost ranges of the Eastern Arc Mountains. The ranges of approximately 90 kilometres (56 mi) long and about half that wide, are situated in the Lushoto District of the Tanga Region. They were formed nearly two million years ago by faulting and uplifting, and are composed of Precambrian metamorphic rocks. They are split into two sub-ranges; the West Usambaras being higher than the East Usambaras, which are nearer the coast and receive more rainfall.

access issues

Undeveloped. Land access, climbing, bolting, etc would need to be agreed with the local community

approach

Rap in from the top

where to stay

Lushoto town or any number of the lodges in the area

ethic

No precedent set. Ideal for multi-pitch trad or sport climbing

1.5. Musoma 228 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: -1.520286, 33.808664

description

Musoma is a town 220 km from the city of Mwanza, which is home to an infinite number of granite rocks that do not exceed 50 m in height. therefore, bouldering, high bouldering and sport climbing predominate, in a smaller amount traditional climbing. Musoma borders the famous Lake Victoria and is 150 km from the Serengeti National Park. the area was first developed under the focus of the Climbing for a reason project, which achieved In addition to the opening of 15 sport climbing routes and 200 boulders, develop the first community of climbers in the country, which is made up of children from the Jipe Moyo Center orphanage.

access issues

Many of the sectors are close to villages and houses, so it is recommended to be respectful and friendly with people. There are also nearby plantations, so it is recommended to be careful when walking and putting the crashpad in the areas.

being a town that does not receive tourists, people are not used to seeing "white people" so they will always call you by muzungu which means white man, but it is not with bad intentions, in fact the only thing they will want from you it's your friendship

approach

Musoma can be accessed in various ways. you can fly directly to musoma, or you can take a direct bus from mwanza musoma that lasts approximately 4 hours, or go by car that takes 3 hours and that will help you a lot to move between the climbing areas since there are quite a few.

where to stay

There are many options to stay. Benny Lodge is one of the best options, the value is $20,000 shillings, 9 USD for a room for two people, very clean, hot shower and moderately modern and a very good location. There are also options near the lake in Playa Matvilla for 22 USD. and finally you can volunteer to teach climbing or yoga to the children of the orphanage jipe moyo center and sleep in the orphanage, for the latter you can contact climbing for a reason on instagram to organize volunteering.

ethic

be respectful of the neighbors, take care of the place and take care of the plantations that surround the rocks

history

Climbing for a reason is a non-profit organization that seeks to open climbing to underprivileged communities around the world that have rocks with great climbing potential. in this case they went to musoma to teach the children of the jipe moyo center orphanage, they taught them to climb their own rocks, and a climbing wall was built inside the center.

1.5.1. pre matvilla area 14 routes in Area

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -1.478863, 33.804336

description

From the town center, drive approximately 3 minutes in the direction of Matvilla Beach Resort and 150 meters before the entrance there is an area next to the road.

1.5.2. Matvilla 22 routes in Area

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -1.478093, 33.801798

description

From the center of town, drive approximately 3 minutes in the direction of Matvilla Beach Resort, the boulders are inside the resort, so you must eat or drink something (minimum, soda it's ok ) at the restaurant and ask for permission.

1.5.3. Military 26 routes in Area

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -1.505863, 33.752235

description

from the jipe ​​moyo manjar orphanage in the opposite direction to the town and bordering the lgo that you will always have on your right hand, until you reach the end of the street where you will find a roundabout where you must turn left. then continue along the road that will become a dirt road until after a couple of minutes driving to the left there will be some small shops, there you must turn left onto a dirt road between some houses, when that road ends turn right and go about 1 km and you will see the rocks on the left. the sector is seen in the distance after some potato plantations walking 10'-15 min from the car

1.5.4. pre military 7 routes in Area

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -1.498217, 33.748053

description

from the jipe ​​moyo orphanage in the opposite direction to the town and bordering the lake that you will always have on your right hand, until you reach the end of the street where you will find a roundabout where you must turn left. then continue along the road that will become a dirt road until after a couple of minutes driving to the left there will be some small shops, there you must turn left onto a dirt road between some houses, when that road ends turn right and go about 1 km and you will see the rocks on the left. the rocks are between the houses so you must be extremely resentful and always say hello

1.5.5. nyegina sport climbing 15 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -1.561777, 33.757592

description

here you will find the first sport climbing crag of tanzania. you will find routes from 6a untill to hard projects. mostly face climbing but also overhang. the rock is very good quality and there is a big potential for more routes. some of the routes doesnt have anchor rings but you can access to the top of all routes from above. where you will find bolts to rapel down and recovery your anchor quickdrwas. so if you come here consider bringing some carabiners for donations. you can also find some crack climbing around.

1.5.6. Nyegina 34 routes in Area

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -1.561518, 33.756929

description

from jipe ​​moyo center you must drive south for 14 minutes and you will arrive in nyengina, follow the coordinates as the rocks are before reaching the town on a dirt road. You will find the rocks on the left. if you don't have a 4x4 vehicle better park on the main dirt road and walk on the dirt road that goes to the left, after 2 minutes walking you will find the first small road to the left, where the first boulders are and at the end from that road after walking 5 minutes you find the sports sector

1.5.7. Jipe Moyo Centre 87 routes in Area

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -1.498095, 33.797599

description

around the jipe ​​moyo centre there are several boulders. If you go you can visit the children and they can guide you, they will be very happy with your visit.

1.5.8. Cementery 4 routes in Area

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -1.504744, 33.774677

description

the entrance is through a house so you must kindly ask for permission

1.5.9. Forgoten area 16 routes in Area

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -1.498560, 33.771327

description

from JIPE MOYO CENTRE drive along having the lake on your right side untill the street finish with a round, after that continue to the left untill a curve and instead turning right continue straight. the earth road will divide in two, take the right one untill the end.

1.5.10. Babu Hill 3 routes in Area

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -1.553904, 33.868120

description

Babu Hill is a boulder area 20 min drive from Musoma. There is a large concentration of boulders, flat and clean surface, many highballs. It's still mostly undeveloped and waiting for discoverers

approach

Drive 20-30min from Musoma and leave your car near the main road after Nyabange village. From there you have to walk around 10min to reach the place. If you have a cross country car, you can try to drive through the village from the right side of the hill and get to the place as close as possible, but the road is very bad

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