Routes in Nowra for selected grade

Start 3m right of the corner. Light coloured wall with single carrot bolt.

Fabulous, powerful and pumpy climbing up the amazing wall. Very hard for the grade. Used to be very easy for the grade before crucial holds were glued up for the FA of No More Gaps. The nasty mono became a duo tho'

Start: Start below the obvious duo, which can just be reached off the boulder.

A tough thin crux, but not a bad route.

Easily and often confused with The Hustler. The mega mega roof line that makes your neck hurt just to look at it. Looks improbable until you get up there and find out how big some of the holds are. Start on the very right hand side of the pocketed wall. Follow the permadraws left through the roof. Where they (and the chalk) continue up (The Hustler), this breaks left again (no permadraws!) through the top roof and up onto the amazing orange rock of the headwall.

Good fun. If you get the right beta, it feels more like 25.

The tricky off angle arete, used to be 25.

Straight out roof, traverse left to rest then nice face climbing to finish with hands on top of cliff.

Start: Start as for 'J'.

Having climbed 'ADATB' traverse left across the lip of the roof all the way to the far end. CAUTION: Back-climb the fucker .

Start: Start as for 'ADATB'.

An absolute ripper of a climb and totally different to the typical 'Nowra' power mutant hard stuff.

Start: Start on ledge above 'SL'

Another punchy roof classic. Take care climbing and back jumping, there is a decent gap between the fourth and fifth bolt.

Start in the tree.

Start with a big throw around the lip heading left past rings. Gather your thoughts, bust through the crux and keep trucking to the end.

Bang out the steep start, break right and keep pumping.

Out small roof and up lovely face to glory.

A bouldery start leads to some excellent moves in steepy, pumpy territory. Save some for the top. If it's all too hard clip the anchors on Bachelor's Ball, but for the full experience tick go all the way.

One of the early hard routes in 'Nowra'. Up past some hard (big) moves past a few RBs. Bundy Rebolted 03-08-2006, prob a waste of steel and no one will ever climb it.

Start: Start around the corner of the Green Slab, 2m R of the awesome walk-down slot.

Classic blunt arete. Soft 6 for 'Nowra'.

Up obvious thin flake as for AbdulMajid then right and follow line of RBs over bulging wall and on up to top of cliff.

Hard crux at the start then cruisey.

A true crag classic, worth the drive. Could be V3 if you’re a rung. Sit start, left hand in good hold above head.

Same start as Gympie Kraft. From the flake, big move to lip, traverse left then mantle and up.

Same start as The Gympie Who Loved Me, but keep heading left to jug and pull lip here. Top out as per Gympie Kraft.

On right side of the face, start on the two crimps in the hueco thing. Head up and left, before moving to the right to finish up Weak And Gympie.

Low sit start with left hand on good crimp (far left) and right hand on pinch block. Head up face to eventually pull onto right side of arete for the top out.

Start on low crimps, just inside cave entrance. Big move up to sloper break (conglomerate band) and follow this around the round arete and finish matched on crimp (left side of arete).

Located at bottom of cave. Sit start matched on slopey jug. Climb straight up to next break, then traverse left to jug above the LHS boulder. match this and step off.

Start in the break under the low roof. Big move out to slopey lip, then straight up to finish.

Sit start and traverse left on the big undercut to join in to the crimps on 'Harder Than You Think'.

Start as for 'Project 2 Nowhere'. Move right via pockets to an airy finish. Bad landing, pads and spotters recommended.

Stand start and up via tough moves.

Stand start and straight up.

Sit start on flake move up via sharp holds down low to tough moves up top. Ledge on the ground is NOT in!

Start as for Unknown and finish as for Nappy Nuggets Traverse.

Sit/crouch start on big undercling. Big move out left to fridge hug your way up to the pocket then usual finish at the jug. Ledge on the ground is NOT in.

Sit start on the overhanging flake. Move up the good holds then out right to the hueco and finish with the big move. Ledge on the ground is NOT in!

Dyno from shallow jug straight up to top of ledge. Hard. 196cm

Stand start at the slot and the slopey break, head up to the flake then dyno high to the pocket. Obviously, shelf to your left is out. 148cm

Two excellent and very different boulder problems. Soft if you can crimp. Start about 5m L of the wet chimney.

Start as for Shaker Fries. Keep traversing left to the Beef Meister anchors.

Heel hook your way up to the third bolt (strenuous clip). Throw for the lip, grunt, then continue to the top holds trying not to fall whilst clipping. Awesome!

Up obvious corner to wild traverse rightwards on roof. Very underrated thrashing.

link up of sex machine into scum

Start as for Spicy Cheese but head left and up through the cruxy bulge to follow the S-shaped line. Keep going all the way to the top of the cliff. Fun climbing, lost a grade recently due to new holds being discovered at the crux.

Start at the flake below the offwidth between Cheesemonster Wall and the bouldering. A slightly mingin start leads to excellent featured climbing on a great angle. A finger endurance test piece!

Big rightwards rising traverse.

Sit start and traverse right to top out over the bulge.

Sit start and up left on slopers & underling to finish at break. going direct is a v8

Sit start and up right on slopers to finish at break.

Up the right trending flake.

Start on the good holds, head up to the shallow pocket and throw around the bulge to the good hold and match to finish.

Direct to Scam NSV. Starting just to the left follow the line of bolts that lead into Scam.

Start with hands matched in good undercling. Go up, finishing at jugs above the sloper. Top out looks mank but might go.

Sit start on ledge, facing out from the cave, with hands compressing the large blob above where you scramble up from the stairs. Transfer to the juggy flake and compress your way to the finishing jug slot.

Gunky low ledge is in. Start left hand on crimp, right hand in undercling. Move out and around roof to top out.

Contrived start but it forces a nice compression sequence.

Low sit start with right hand in jug side pull and left hand in slot crimp on arete. Slap and crank up to jugs, then head up to arete peak for a top out. Note that the pocket on the right-hand side is only for the right hand, if you put your left hand in it, take V4 (see next climb).

Crouch/sit start on the left side. Head right and up the wave to top out the peak.

Start as for 'Don't Kill My Vibe' but go left and up the arete.

Start in the back left of the cave and climb out via big moves. Mantle onto ledge.

Start as for 'Don't Kill My Vibe', then traverse right and link into 'Rising Sun'.

Start in the back right of the cave. Go straight out then directly up with the fin feature.

Start from the left side of the wall. Move right on good holds to big dyno then tough moves to the top...stay out of the cave!!

WARNING.. Bolt got pulled out while working this 16/07/17. The bolt is the crux bolt just after the no hands rest. The bolt after also looks suspect, take care until this gets rebolted.

The reason you came here. Half slab, half steep mega jugs.

Prow. V6/7.

Start right at the back of the cave. Follow the jugs to the last. V2 if you stop before the crux.

Sit start on sidepull under prow. Move right to gain right side of roof via big move, slap up arete until its possible to rock onto slab. Originally planned to start on rail further left but broke the hold. Doable but much harder.

Sit start on right. Lip traverse up and left to top out the same as Dark Paradise.

Stand start on 2 obvious edges on roof. Tough moves on pockets and undercuts. Finish on obvious jug.

Sit start near back of cave on big flat jug. Out roof on pockets to second roof with juggy flake. Up the last wall using sloping seam then topout with big hole jug.

Stand start with right jug and left edge. Back and left through small pockets in the roof. Big move to seam then traverse back right to massive jugs for easy topout.

Sit start on left side of prow. Move up the arete until you can transfer onto the slab. Top out up scoop.

Sit start on slopers. Head up and diagonally left to top out.

Start as for Black Heart. Traverse left and up via crimps to top out. V5 if you use the sloper. V6 if you don't. Much crimpier without.

Start as for Black Heart. Traverse left and up via crimps and a RH sloper to top out. V6 if you don't use the sloper. Much crimpier without.

Sit start on the crimp rail. Head left out of the cave and traverse left into Vespasian.

Titus into Liam finish.

Wide sit start. Up the arete and top. Burly compression.