Routes in Australia for selected grade

Stand start on bad angled edges below the start for Sideshow and Main Event. Head right via gastons and sidepulls to gain gain the lip and finish as for Sideshow

Start with There Will Be Blood, but instead of topping out use the edges on problem #39 to come across to The Katana and finish on The Katana. A long endurance test piece that will certainly be a hard link up. Adds in a hard crux of coming down of the starting edge of #39 to the start of The Katana. Could probably shake out stemming between the Katana and Blood boulders... Contrived...

Guess this needs a new name. Low start on the first of the monos and the obvious incut edge, with a pretty crucial toehook. Climb straight through the roof for a few moves before finishing up The V7. One of QLD's new hardest boulders.

Sit start with left hand on the half pad crimp rail and right on the nothing pinch, shoot up to the variety of crimps and the puzzle get's real! Potentially much harder than the estimated grade

Start as 'The Sweetest Contrivances' then traverse left through the overhang to link into 'Drop It Like It's Hot'. Pumpy and hard. https://youtu.be/pwsiUx_U2mg?t=126

SDS on good hold, long move up to gain the crimp-plate. Climb the left hand side of the boulder with awesome stretched out compression moves. Stick left for the send. Easier the taller you are.

Andy

Robin Y

Grade's a guess. Send it and tell us.

Crazy roof right on the waters edge of the ocean. Start from two good crimps at the back of the cave, followed by 8 hard moves in a roof to a cool headwall and top out to the right.

First boulder of the grade sent by an Australian woman - Amy Fenton in 2017. Amy suggested a downgrade, saying "The consensus probably sits at a slash grade (V12/13) but I am definitely no authority. Before Deep Blue Sea my hardest tick was V10 so the idea of skipping two grades and going straight to V13 didn’t sit right with me."

Aurel Gelot | Travis Bettison | Mattias Braach-Maksvytis | Amy Fenton | Sam Farrar

Sit start LH undercling in the middle of the hueco and RH sidepull. Do a few hard moves up and left to gain the ledge and topout. Bloody Classic. Cheers JH for the vision.

The low start to quarter pounder - project.

Sit start with two opposing vertical holds, head left via big move and finish via arete

Possibly lives up to the name. It would appear that holds have broken since Brad S and Nick W first documented this boulder. A powerful, aggressive crimp boulder that needs a repeat to reconfirm the grade. Would appear at least V11.

Sit Start on good two finger side pull and crimp. Hard first moves left into small crimps, then finish as for ‘Kiss My Witness’.

Brad S and Nick W (Pictures on StrandedClimbers.Blogspot.com.au)

The clean overhanging face to the left of ‘Sudoku.’

Hard technical climbing in a steep open corner

Start same as Project Slap but after establishing the slopey crimp, traverse out left on tiny crimps and knobs to the arete and mantle to topout.

Do esoteric panties/evil agenda to the crux of esoteric agenda and then break left for a very hard 3 extra bolts of climbing until you reach sideways rains anchor.

The future.

"Dangle pigs". Australia's 2nd 35. Formerly a Lee Cossey project, generously gifted to Alex to keep him occupied. Starts just shy of the wall splitting arete 15m right of Ristretto. Tends rightward to breach the main roof close to its right hand end, and up wall above.

Start 8m right of Beta Vinyl, 3m L of Tiger Snatch. Heads straight up, passing through the left end of the low horizontal break of Velvet project / Tiger Snatch. Then heads straight up to Sitting Bull's final break. Finish as for Sue's Last Ride.

Rumour is it's pretty hard. Direct start to Mono No Aware. The first 35 to be sent by an Australian (albeit noting the question of how to grade Wheel of Life). Tom

Australia's first 35 (albeit noting the question of how to grade Wheel of Life). An open project for over a decade. Alex took about 20 shots to send it, not long after he'd onsighted 9a at Siurana.

Ascents

• Alex Megos - 18 August 2013
• Wiz Fineron - 14 May 2019
• Ben Cossey

Start slightly left of Knifey Spooney. The fainted crack feature on that compact wall. This line link into the crux of Spoonman. Probably the hardest climb in Queensland at the moment.

No sure if it goes. Start The Seam and stay in the it all the way. Two more bolts allow to link directly to the upper wall of Spoonman.

Starting a few moves further right on some horrible small sidepulls is a project in the V12 range.

Stand start as for Undertow right and head straight up

Low sit start, follow crack feature to top out

Start on the double gastons a couple of tricky moves and a desperate swing will get you established onto The Never Ending Story, finish as for this.

30m? right of the bottom dam is a bulgy arete feature just to the left of a little chimney crack. Sit start left of the crack, head left and around the arete, then up to slopers.

Stand Start - Start about 3m right of Darkside on the obvious jug at head height, pull out into roof then move left and finish as for Darkside.

Start as for Trident, and instead of throwing to the large slope slap to the crimp 1 foot left instead. Finish out left on lip

Start on LH pinch and RH undercling, up through shouldery dihedral before finishing as for storm chasers.

The wobbly block recently came out, but the boulder will still go at a similar grade.

Sit start matched on the flat jug. Move up and right through heel/toe trickery on slick river washed edges and small seams. All time.

Mega roof fridge, start on the arete and crimp following the arete until holds start apearing up the face.

Sit start on small edge at back of cave. Head up and right to dream block before climbing a few more easier moves to finish below lip of cave.

Climb the obvious fridge feature. deep from in the cave. Slap side to side and try and work out the wacky puzzle at the lip. Don't get swallowed up by the giant monster!!

One of the hardest problem's in Queensland. This is the amazing line in the middle of the wall.

[eliminate] The stunning line at the entrance of the cave. Start at middle of Orient Express and blast straight out of cave through blank section. eliminates the big sidepull on the right side.

Hard line right of wrestle mania starting very low and eventually blasting through the roof. Its all there!

Same sit start as antique roadshow prom but head right till you link into the V4 arete. A 60 degree sloper guards this beast.

This was previously ‘Kiss My Witness’ V6. Holds broke and alas was a project for some time before a “post break repeat” grade confirmation.

Start with both hands on low incut rail. Follow obvious break straight up and finish as for ‘Silent Witness'

The insane, thin, finger crack that splits the whole cave in half, straight down the middle. Sit start the start of the crack at the very back of the cave and figure out the insanity. Very possible

Sit start on the far right arete as for 'Mrs Potato Head'. Traverse left with long move to undercling flake to gain the stand start for 'To Infinity and Beyond'. Epic!

https://vimeo.com/268975880

Sit start with sharp crimps under the stand of 'To Infinity and Beyond'

https://vimeo.com/327248010

Sit start compressing the boulder. Climb a ~V8/9 compression sequence into the V11 stand start. Awesome, sustained climbing.

Adds a move into the 'crouch' starting with the right hand dish and slightly higher left hand originally opened by legendary Andy Lampard. https://vimeo.com/264036730

Sit start at the bottom of the obvious crack in the roof and up. The holds run out and force a massive throw to good holds near the lip of the roof.

Stand start on two tiny crimps, move up and right to the big shield and then top out the proud arete

Stand start from left hand crimp and low right hand undercling, up prow to insecure top out.

The impossible line directly above the Phone Diddle start. Sit start at the ledge, move to some tiny crimps then up through some imaginary slopers to top out.

Details unknown.

Squat start on two horizontal edges at same height and out the steep prow to top out.

Squat start compressed, up on slopers compressing rounded arete to top out high slab.

Mattias Braach-Maksvytis

Really great and unique overhanging roof coffin. Sit-starts low on right hand pinch and left positive side-pull. Thug up left and and start slapping. Finishes on obvious big juggy break above the coffin.

Start and climb Ram Raid, continue up and and right via additional moves to join the scoop of Undertow/Tube surfing via a big huck, then continue up & TOP OUT. Can be finished standing in the scoop if so desired. Take caution if topping out. The FA cleaned and practiced this on a rope prior to sending.

Start on the starting holds of Pearl Necklace but head left via shallow underclings and pockets to finish up Bumpy Boys.

Start as for Jug to Jug to the LH slot but then head left across Turbo Guns via two difficult cross overs to finish left of that problem.

Start on the undercling and move up to the two crimps, then a long move to the first break. Go straight up from here to the next break it's Australia's first V11.

This problem goes out the steepest part of the roof. Start matched low on the horizontal rail then out to the LH gaston and then up to the RH 3 finger pocket. A big throw to the LH undercling pocket then up some good holds to a powerful finish at the big hueco.

Slot currently broken. Much much harder now.

Makes Joe, Joe Dynamo (Lot 33) feel like a walk in the park. Consensus upgrade from V11.

Start as for "Persistence", following the right side of holds approximately 2 meters. Just after the deep two finger pocket climb towards the big Hueco on the lower right side of the cave. Climb the far right side of the cave to finish on the start rail of "Major Lightweight".

Byron Glover R. Hofmann

Start as for 'From Dust Till Dawn, head back to the start of Anger Management and climb this all the way. Adds a fair bit more decent climbing.

R. Hofmann

Start as From Dust Till Dawn, head through Persistence and finish as per Anger Management. Another obvious fun enduro classic!!

R. Hofmann

Start and climb as for Anger Management, exit as for Persistence. Spicy finish and hard for the grade.

R. Hofmann

Sit start as for Anger Management, following the right side of holds leading to a big move to a crimpy blob/shield like feature and then a good jug rest. Connect back into "Anger Management" following its sloppy crack line, turning about a meter before the crack opening. Then head directly out towards the front of the cave via a large jug and some sharp underlings. Top out as for "Anger Management".

Byron Glover

R. Hofmann

Sketchy all points off dyno up high.

"Grimacing" into Agent Orange.

Stretch finishing up For Sissies. No pads to cheat the start.

Same handholds as for Bowels of the Devil, but starting with a high right toehook. No dynamic movements or pads to cheat the start, just strict flexibility. Hard to grade.

Start matched on the sidepull, make a hard move right into the start position of Bowels. Was thought to be the actual start of Bowels.

Starts as a sit/crouch start on the chalk at the far right of the crumbly cave and then up the “v3” and into the roof to finish on the last big jug (same finish as leviticus)

Start on the undercling just right of Sushi Train's start and power up using the obvious poor pinch.

Chris Webb Parsons

Travis B

Sam Healy

Link 'Mushi Brain' into the last two moves of 'Abacus'

R. Hofmann

Start as for nasty and go directly upwards finishing last moves as for RBTL.

Tom Farrell

Big first move to finish straight up the ramp.

Low start to Romper Stomper.

Sam Healy

Shared start with Obsession.

Keep traversing left on some small edges until you reach the flake, joining the crux of Moments Of The Past.

Liam Healy

Start matched on the 2 crimpy underclings, traverse right and do a big dynamic move to a good edge on the break. Finish matched on the big horn just behind the ledge.

Sit start on the jug under the rooflet and follow the arete all the way to the top of the block.

Might need a brush as it's getting mossy again.

Sit start on the scoop and move left using some crimps to gain the big rail before doing a huge span out left to join Odin's Raven.

A very good piece of climbing. Apparently the trick is to control the swing.

Chris Webb Parsons

Travis B

Stand start, up on slopey pockets to top. Very friction dependent.

Elijah Mercado Sam Healy

Grubby paw direct but exiting via blue and green directly over. Just gave it a twelve based on grubby paw direct, most likely everything here could drop by one.

Start & finish as for Grubby Paw but direct to hueco as for The Smiling Assassin.

Chris Beers Mattias Braach-Maksvytis

Alec Landstra (post breakage)

Stand start in the break. Tough move through rounded pinch/layaway dish to slot then up slab. Given V10 by James.

Desperate rounded sidepull climbing in the alley up the face.

Left of The Pincer Movement, follow chalked cobwebbed crack.

Elijah Mercado

Start on the shield, up to a crimp then massive dyno to the jug.

Paul's Present finishing up Exit Wounds.

mattias braach-maksvytis

Contact finishing up Savage

The first V12 in OZ! Very powerful.

Start Warmup Warren and traverse right into Tiny Defence.

The contender for best in the cave? Climb as for 'Sloths in the attic' to the the big jug rail, from here traverse the lip back-towards 'Room with a better view" through some small edges and a tough cut. Top out as for "Room with a better view'

roof, no top out

Described in Rock Magazine #48 as incredibly thin and powerful.

6 moves, SDS

Into the bush about 100m left of the Skittle boulder.