Routes in Australia for selected grade

Sit start on whatever holds are comfortable. huge through up to slopy crimp on the lip, match and head up through holds on the left.

SS on the arete and throw upwards through bad holds to topout

SS on the face crimps or undercling on the right side of the face and climb up.

Stand start on crimps, found to left of the V8, follow the direct line getting high feet and up slopers

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LE61cvEsU10

Starts at low bolt in the middle of the slab. 2 bolts to jugs at the top of the slab. a hard sequence past 4th bolt to gain the main crack in the cliff. Up and right via 2 bolts above the crack and trend right over a DBB to mantle on RH side of the cliff. DBB set back from the edge of the cliff.

Probably the best line at Brady’s. Unfortunate the landing isn’t better. Start on two small staggered crimps at head height under the bulge and climb straight up the protruding block feature. Excellent and committing.

Sit start on right hand end of sloper rail. Move left via slopers to a tricky mantle. Pretty sick!

The right arete.

Sit start on good horn hold in the centre of the wall, make some big moves to mantle

Sit start with right hand on slopey arete, left hand low on bad crimps, harder than it looks

Stand start matched on the undercling in the back left side of the roof. pull through the roof to a good edge then finish up and right to top out.

Stand start under roof on the right side with left hand in jam crack. Climb through the roof and up right side arrete

Crouch/Sit start as low as possible on the slopers on the left arete. Move up and right via big moves and top out just right of the highest point of the boulder.

The hardest route so far at the crag, following a fantastic line up the face and through the big roof. Start at thin layback seam up the wall, then very thin and technical face/slab moves lead to a stance below the big roof. Stem through this, then traverse spectacularly up and left to a good rest below the final bulge. A cruxy boulder problem guards the anchors.

Start low laybacking the arete with a good foot. magic your way up the arete and finish matching the small juggy ledge. FA up for grabs.

The next line of edges up to a sloping topout. Sit start on large rail using edges to reach the lip

Climb Brandy but use the boulder on the left for feet

Superb thin face climbing on tiny crimps. Various off-shoot link-ups have now been added that cross or exit the original line, so consult topo closely before attempting

Technical line up the middle of the wall.

Climb “Bible Black” to first small overlap, then trend R into the top of Resurrection Sunday.

An extension to Gethsemene. After clipping the anchors, continue up the severely overhanging arete above.

Same start as Songs of Innocence, but continue right where SoI moves left and follow the steep wall to the top.

SDS. Great rising traverse starting low and heading out right to finish topped out. Can be well protected with a sufficient collection of pads.

Start as for Premium Lager, do the first two or so moves, then head straight up through the groove

Stand. Start with hands on sidepulls and jump into a campus sequence to the top.

Hang. Start matched on triangular hold - up to huge slope out R and then a big move to the next sloper up.

Sit start as for "The Stroll" then climb "Sharon".

Sit start as for "The Stroll" then climb up using the right arete and top out.

Sit start from LH crimp/RH pinch (or whatever else you can make work) then climb up and top out. No stacking pads for sit.

Sit start with both hands on the obvious flat edge and feet on the white corner underneath, head up straight

SDS. Traverse to the right then topout through easy ground (V0). Traverse is harder than it looks.

Stand

SDS? Compress up arete without using R wall

unbolted face with DBB

Right side of arete to DBB

The pocketed face and left arete to DBB

The bolted open book corner 5m right of Ivy Crack, thin crimps up the dihedral through the roof trending left to mantle, a long reach up and right to the anchors, supposedly 29 if you're too short to reach the hold from the ledge

Climbs the arete + face around the corner of Fighting The Authorities without using any of the face holds of FTA

Steep far left climb slightly up the hill

The thin crack with face holds left of the overhanging offwidth. Nice moves on good holds (about 22) lead to a ridiculously thin boulder problem finish and DBB.

Climb the blunt arete left of Vamp past 4 FH to a DBB

Start as for Long Knife, clipping the first bolt on the arete out right, and continuing up the offwidth/chimney until at the same height as the 2nd bolt.

Traverse boldly right onto the arete to gain the 2nd bolt, then traverse boldly further right to gain the line of glue-in rings heading directly up the aesthetic arete.

Large Wires and large cams #3, #4/#5 to protect the initial crack. Consider climbing on 2-ropes and dropping the first once you gain the 2nd bolt on the arete to avoid hideous drag from the trad-section.

The direct start to Road to War up the arete. A great arete climb with three distinct boulder problem cruxes.

Start as for the previous problem but move out the belly of the boulder to the left, then up through and angled small crack to the lip. Top out over the point.

Sit start with your left on the arete, right on a good pinchy hold, make hard moves on the arete and up via bad holds on the right.

Start on left side of low rail, with LH crimp and RH slope (toe hook helps). Go straight up on crimps.

Same start as condensed ham direct. Traverse right and top out on the pointed arête.

Sit start LH on a low sidepull crimp, and RH a little higher in an arching undercling feature. Move up to a good incut crimp and small edge and then to a good rail. Traverse the rail rightwards through the corner and finish as per #5 by stepping off in the elevated cave. Although the crux is technically over within the first few moves, you may want to at least have a look at the rest lest you find yourself in trouble once you've done the opening.

Sit start. Climb Spunk up to the crimp rail and continue up the Arête to the the top. The stand start to this is a 2 bolt climb (Spunky Monkey 27), but the whole line starting from the sit can easily be bouldered with a pad or two. The easiest decent is to downclimb the grade 19 just to the left of the arête. A topout is possible but not recommended.

Huge dyno starting on good jug to high rail up and left.

Up the face underneath 'Scrubba Dub' Start LH on small sidepull nub and RH on terrible sloper indent. chockstone foot probably has to be in for it to be possible.

Start on slope and crimp, campus to left arete with big lock off to high hold.

Sit start on two decent crimps next to each other, head up via LH sidepull and a series of RH sloping sidepulls. Punchy!

Sit start matched on sloper then climb up and top out.

Start with left hand on the triangle sloper (RH start hold for 'Tide Rider') and right hand on an juggy crimp under the boulder. Head up and right as for 'Tide Rider'.

Sit start with left hand on the vertical crimp and right hand on the very bottom of the large sidepull, make a hard move or two to the lip and up from there. Avoid the sharp jug far out right under the rooflet.

Start as for End Of Innocence and head right via crimps finishing right over slopers

Climb the flaring arete right of Bananagrams, okay holds, bad feet

Sit start with right hand on very small side pull and left hand low on left arete using the chockstone for feet. Climb the rest of the original Diving Board problem.

Stand start project on the right of the boulder finishing as for Car Parks. Right hand on good hold, left hand on nothing good

Stand Start with two high small slopy crimps on the face and make a couple technical moves before jumping for the top.

The next R prominent arete, just left of Short and Sweet. Sit start with RH on arete, and LH on slopey gaston. Stand start goes at V6

Start as for The Slip but keep heading right until you get to the corner, once there head up to the good holds. Landing isn't great so bring lots of pads or good spotters.

Start with left hand in good side pull in the middle of the roof. Big iron cross move to right hand jug far right and top out via the arete.

Sit start as for Pineapple Traverse, head right to big sloper and straight up from there finishing as for "Pineapple under the Sea"

Sit start with good LH sidepull and decent RH. Punch up into decent sloping edges for both hands and then do a large move to good LH edge. Continue on to pool mantle.

The central seam line. 7FH's + 2FH DBB

Shares start with Symptom of the universe then moves right at 5m follows the thin seam

The arete with bolts immediately left of Who Among Them. Also excellent climbed as 25 A0.

Stand start from left hand on decent slopey crimp and right hand in small sidepull, sit start might go as well?

Sit start matched on undercling, pull a hard move into the pocket, then traverse right along crimp rail and up arete to finish.

Sit start right hand sloper, left hand low undercling. Compress up to join ‘Pocket Rocket’ and finish up arete.

Sit start on the incut jug underneath, head up straight via good crimps for same finish as Fastlane

Sit start on the good undercling, head up and right to meet the arete at the undercling. Committing and somewhat sketchy topout mantle at decent height, bring a spotter!

Sit start on two edges, move up into hueco via powerful first move, head left via good incut edges all the way to left hand in pockets, head up from here and mantle over the top

Hang start with poor feet. Left hand in vertical slot and right hand on lowest pinch.

A boulder problem on a rope, but if you're into that or want to crank hard it's pretty fun. Start 1m right of Lazy Lob and instead of trending left and then back right head straight up to join the original just below the arete. It's a bit contrived but to get full value don't use any of the original holds on Lazy Lob. Grade needs to be confirmed.

Up the steep face just to the right of the arete.

Currently closed pending Aboriginal Heritage assessment.

All belays are double FH. You will need to leave hardware to get down.

Rap anchor gps: -41.94329 145.60508

1. 18m (21) 8 bolts

2. 35m (27) 14 bolts

3. 17m (24) 8 bolts

4. 30m (21) 10 bolts

5. 18m (19) 7 bolts

6. 20m Scramble 1 bolt

7. 15m (19) 5 bolts

Access is via the Main Face rappels. Alternatively you can rap the route, but you’ll need to bring plenty of spare biners, as the belays are all double FH.

Note that you can’t French free a lot of the hard pitches, and the escape from the base is not pleasant.

1. 50m (27) 'The Drowning Pitch'

2. 20m (21)

3. 45m (24) 'Crazy Sex Pitch'

4. 45m (26) 'Balls in a Juicer Pitch'

5. 35m (23)

6. 15m (24)

7. 50m (25) 'The Golden Corner'

8. 30m (20)

9. 20m (20)

1. 18m (17)

2. 30m (28)

3. 20m (25)

4. 20m (26)

5. 20m (25)

6. 20m (25)

Start up easy terrain to gain a high first bolt. Continue up with increasing difficulty to a final crux at the finish. Single bolt lower-off

A very hard boulder starts off this route on the polished face below the first 2 bolts, then straight up to top as climbing backs off a little nicely to the lower offs

Link up that takes the start of tomahawk and crosses into and finishing up Unrequited

A few hard moves off ground to obtain the low break, into a hard crux section after the first roof, into easy ground to the lower offs at the top.

Start low on the arete and head up laybacking the arete and avoiding rocking over onto the easy slab.

Starts sitting low on the waist-high boulder just right of For A Few Dollars More. Use the 2 ticked pockets to start, then blast through some strenuous moves to gain the juggy protruding undercling shared by FAFDM. From here head right through the roof crux (right hand out to the slot, left hand slaps to the arete) and pull through the final crimps at the lip, staying left of Hasta Luego Amigo!

The next obvious project would be to start even lower in the cave and climb into it as a mega linkup

Adds some big moves on pockets to the start of FFOF. Start at the back of the cave, perched on a boulder which appears to support the roof boulder (not quite, there is a 5mm gap). Sit start with the left cheek on this, good pocket for left hand, and nearby opposing edge for right hand. Climb into FFOF, avoid dabbing on its sit start and finish as for that.

Start as for Reverse Mortgage but head right to finish on the bulgy arete, could be a scary finish above the slope.

Start lower and further right, almost in front of the small boulder, on some obvious holds and left to join Ennio.

To the left is a steeper harder feeling project. Getting off the ground might be the crux.

start up bone tomahawk & when you reach the awesome jug in the middle of the wall you bust out right via some punchy moves !