Routes in Australia for selected grade

Jumps from the hole to the board of the roof. Hard swing. Easy exit.

Start as for Kukkurdì then follow the underclings. Exit as for SRBD.

Start on the good jug on left side of the scoop. Exit left with the underclings. Fantastic.

Start on the ramp, hard dynamic move to reach the last jug.

Very big jump.

Start 2m right of Babau. Jump to reach the board (ledge) then exit as Babau. The big jug on left is out.

Start deep in the cave on the jug. Continue on one finger pockets. Strange method.

Peter Jeavons

Same as Areia No Zoio, but go straight at the roof without using the left wall.

Hard. V9 to V10.

From the sit. May have been done before. High finish.

A more direct finish to 'The Last Great Line'. Sit start at the end of the cave, matching the first hold. Traverse until you reach the RH undercling slot and a LH sidepull crimp. From there, head up and then left to finish on the big jugs.

Emmanuel Madayag | Phillip Booth | Darien Winarso

Start on the obvious break at the back of the wall, climb out the steepest section and top out right of the pipe.

Emmanuel Madayag

Stand start up the slab in the high break. Follow the steep arete out left to top out. Rocks to the right obviously are out.

Start below obvious nested crimp on holds under the rooflet before moving up and right through said crimp. Join directly into the large jug on Kumamoto staying off the earlier holds used for this problem. Insects rain from above.

Stand start on the large scoop feature and underclings further right. Move up commiting onto good holds up right then back left finishing high on the top lip. Tall and upper holds are flexing.

i cant get it but if someone can please take a video and grade it

Start as Beast breaker but bust out left from slots and finish left. Can be broken with a high heel but v9/10 grade comes with big left gaston.

Start as for Little Feet but shoot right to the slopey crimp to join Lopockcito. Eman

Very Cool hard problem. Start in the roof under the pinches just before the crux of TG. Go direct to the first pinches on TG. From here move R into the obvious rib and the eventual jugs. Finish out LYTD, the back wall is out!

Alex Lopes

The full shebang!! Matt’s originally mega line, set free and sent by that strong young Cossey lad. Starts up Cougars, across Battle Cat, bit of a rest on the 50 Shades ledge then bang out the top boulder of Kids with Knives then hold that pump to finish topped out above the Junkyard Dog.

Perhaps more scary then it is hard… Stand start with your RH in a four finger pocket and your LH in a two finger pocket. Move to a LH pocket and some crimps before a big dyno to a slopey crimp. Keep moving up to make a committing move to gain the left jug at the break.

Low left start from slopey pinches at the back before joining MM.

Sit starts with huge move from the back and coming out feet first to gain the jugs on the hanging arête before following this straight up and finishing as for MM (the stand can be done as a V7).

Start as for James and the Giant Reach, finishing left as for Big Peach.

Stand start approx. 2 metres or so right of the short left hand arête. A funky series of moves left to gain the arête before finishing on a jug where the arête ends.

Sam Healy

Horizontal fridge hugging into tough mantle.

Sit start and straight up the 45 degree wall and top out. high !!! Very good . Best sea cliff problem in Sydney.

Huge dyno out of roof . With a slight varient finish to sustain the grade . Great problem

The first king line completed! Bring your knee pads to make good use of the two rests because this is looong. Links Prehistoric Punk -> Renegades of Punk -> Nirvana -> Punk Soccer then escapes out the chimney.

Goes straight up the middle of the overhanging wall and tops out. Tough mantle. Sit start, from big hueco/pocket, move up the face to the lip, mantle and top out. The key is doing a pop move from the pocket/crimp to the side pull and get a toe cam in the big hueco.Spotter advised for topping as a fall from here will see you tumble down the hill.

Heinous line of crimps to mantle the face. Start at jug as for TBBBOE

Tara Sutherland's 2002 ascent was the first Aussie female ascent of a grade 30.

climb the first 2 bolts of narcosis, then bust right to the lip of slip, slop, slap. clip the bolt and finish up slip slop slap!! great fun!

Start: as for narcosis

A perfect boulder problem on a rope. Three moves to glory... slip, slop, slap.

Relatively easy climbing to a desperate boulder problem crux (~V9). Most of the recent ascentionists use a different (easier) crux sequence to the original ascentionists and the grade might be coming down soon.

A long link-up worthy of mention as it covers some amazing country. Start up Dude Food, to go through Vogue and up Church Of Christ to anchors. Head right across Turn Your Eyes Insane to finish up Hopelessly Devoted To You anchors.

The original line. From Meet The G anchors, climb around rooflet onto upper face to high anchor.

The line just to the right of Meet The G. Fun climbing via some sandy sections to a heartbreaker ending. Conditions help. Previously known by another name. The first ascentionist has requested that the route be known by the original name given to it by the equipper.

The really obvious and desperate looking arete that overhangs the boulders, just left of Caribbean Beat Master. Overhangs at least 30 degrees - its much steeper than it looks in the topo.

This is the left arete of the awesome hanging wall. Climb from the ground to a sustained boulder problem past the last 2 bolts.

LH crimp that you use to throw to the finishing jug has snapped. There is still a hold there but probably goes at a harder grade * Starts right where the blue Lot 33 graffitti is. Awkward start to gain the sidepull/undercling with your RH. Then a long move LH to a shallow pinch, cross over with your RH to a pocket. Then up to the sharp LH crimp and a throw to the jug to finish. Ledge on the ground is NOT in!*

Stand start on 2 crimps for a big RH throw to a sloping hold. Then LH out left to sharp hold and again a big move with the RH around the bulge to finish.

Hard first and last move with a big throw from the underclings to finish.

Start at Sexy Rexy traverses right all the way to finish up Nappy Nuggets. Ledge on the ground is NOT in!

Start matched on a good hold, go RH to sidepull, some funky footwork and then LH up to jug in roof. Up to the pocket and same move again to finish.

A big jump from a huge jug to another huge jug - the business is controlling the swing! The landing is a bit dodgy so pad it out and have a spotter.

5m left of Slurry Whipping. Line of RBs over bulge to double RBs.

The line just right of lucious, a sandy start leads into some tough but good bouldery moves through the roof, finishes up Aloha.

Start as for Frosty and at 3rd bolt move leftwards towards the small cave directly under the roof, blast directly through roof.

Start as for Comin' at ya Pundi, through initial crux, then out left past a hanger under roof to finish up the final moves of El Maco.

Start as for Parasite past the crux the head left through El Maco to finish up the crux of Frosty.

Parasite into the finish of El Maco via the cool 'la rose' move. Sustained.

Extension to Old, Fat and Married.

3 incredibly powerful moves. A poxy route - or a great boulder problem? Was briefly the hardest route in the country at grade 33. Now considered to be a V10 boulder problem on a rope.

Route name changed at the request of the first ascentionist.

Start up Sunshine then bust left under Plastic Exploding, traverse left and up and finish at the anchors of Spermies.

One for the Kneebarers, starts a few metres left of Cheese Gobbler up via a couple powerful moves and cruxy kneebar into the quality roof and head wall.

Insane! A line of holds just happens to lead into the belly of the big roof, meeting the Big Cheese for the final few moves at the lip. The star destroyer shaped roof is brilliant pocketed sandstone.

Start on 'ankles away' then head right through multiple roofs to a ledge before the unique 'bowl' crux and final roof. Wait for a dry spell and take some long slings.

Andrew Bull Hugo Hornshaw

As for Stinky Cheese for 8 metres or so. Head up through the slopey flake to the start of the roof. Go left about 10 metres to join the last 3 moves of Cheesemonster (stay high).

Start up Cheesemonster. At the break traverse right a few metres to join Non Dairy Cheeselike Substitute, and finish up that.

Start up WBTM, traverse right into "Strike of the Silver Fox" then continue right through roof for a few more meters before turning the lip and finishing up head wall.

Start from obvious jug. Right hand to crimp and Left hand to side-pull pocket to finish at break. (please edit the name if you know the name of this line).

(The line no longer exists) aka Don't Get Huge, Get Massive Sit start on the RH undercling and go up left to some shallow crimps, then back up right to the better holds. Take the pinch with your RH and long move around the bulge to match on the finishing hold.

(The line no longer exists) Sit start just right of Mr Olympia and go up RH to the pocket and head left to join Mr Olympia and finish up that problem.

Sit start on the same hold as Blowing Blood but head right and finish up quite high as per Gorilla Grip.

Small flakes up the consistently overhanging wall. Looks about grade 1 million ! Closed Project until 2023

Short crack to spectacular orange line above.

Stand start. LH juggy gaston or flat crimp, RH undercling. Go up a few moves and head left on good holds after the mega jug. *Big boulder at the base has tipped over as of May 2022, considerably changing the start.

The area of large boulders on your left once you hit the bottom of Sugarloaf Gully. There is a track to the river.

Dave did the fa in about 1996. Start with both hands on the rail then big move up to the sloping lip. Speculated at the time to be v9 but who knows??

Note: Currently fallen tree blocking the dyno.

Start as for Prosthesis but climb left via small crimps and toe hook to end up going right hand to chipped pocket before finishing on jug rail

Might be slightly harder than Prosthesis

Emmanuel Madayag

Chipped and not that nice but the hardest problem here.

Start at tree right of corner, using pocket then straight up to roof and traverse left under roof and up shallow corner to ledge. Technical corner work then follow line to crux moves at very top . . . 'Cull The Sac' variant. Climb past roof and up to ledge at half-height ~23. Sling-horn to lower, then flick it off to retrieve.

Left to right eliminate of the traverse, using none of the obvious jug rail. Starts on high pockets, traverses down to the crimp on the V4, then out to slopers, moving low through the start of LSD and around. Video of Ben Pearse floating around somewhere.

Tuckered Out is probably the best route on the wall, grade wise, climbing wise and fun wise. It has so much more climbing than most of the other routes. Climb Super Duper Goo but finish up the roof of Tucker Time.

Start as for Mr Meaner for 3 bolts then move a bit L. Sustained crimping for about 10m of independent climbing, eventually joining the top flake of Mr Magoo. Continue into Super Goo to the top of the cliff.

A good, less steep offering. A hard start that can be done many ways sets you up for a good rest followed by great consistent climbing. A big crux move guards the anchor jugs and easier climbing. Conservation is the name of the game on this one. Soft, and a small number of (mostly tall) climbers take 29, but for now there is still a clear consensus that it's 30.

A slight variation to Zac's original vision for the line. Start as for "Mister Gluecklick for the first 3 bolts then straight up the flake and finish up "Theda Bara". Enjoy.

An enjoyable outing.