Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Queensland South East Sunshine Coast Oakview State Forest Ridge Bloc | |||||
VB- | ★ Nohn Jewby
Mantle the wobbly chockstone. | ||||
Queensland South East Brisbane Kangaroo Point Left Main Wall | |||||
2 | ★★★ I Tick Stairs ('cause I'm a Loser)
Just in case you feel the need to tick an ascent of the stone stairs at the L end of 'Left Main Wall'. | 40m | |||
Queensland South East Brisbane Kangaroo Point Right Main Wall | |||||
3 | Diagonal
Start 5m L of 'Mantlit'. Marked "D". FA: Shane Smithies, 1986 | 17m | |||
1 | ★★★ Milk Run
Directly in front of Lightbox 57. Easiest Climb at KP. Bolt is level with anchor, perfect for beginners to practice setting up and cleaning anchors. FA: Philipp Orth, 10 Jan 2023 | 2m, 1 | |||
Queensland South East Brisbane Kangaroo Point Nursery Cliffs | |||||
2 | ★★ Pyornkrachzark's Staircase
Scramble the big ledge staircase, top out through obvious corner. | 10m | |||
Queensland South East Brisbane Moreton Island Honeymoon Beach Bouldering | |||||
VB- - 0+ | ★★ The Promenade
A fun 100m long traverse in an incredible location. Start at the entry of the obvious deep ravine, climb 2m up the RHS arete and keep traversing right, keeping 1 to 2.5m high all the way to the manky end of the wall, going through some interesting overhanging moves. The rock is crumbling in places on the surface so look for big holds. FFA: Cris Set: Aug 2015 | 100m | |||
Queensland South East Brisbane Toohey Forest Main area Area C Crouching Tiger Hidden Dragon | |||||
VB- | ★ Beginner sit start 3
Sit start. Hands on jug in crack. Feet on good edge. Pull on and straight up. | ||||
Queensland South East Scenic Rim Mt Barney South Ridges | |||||
4 R | ★★ Mezzanine Ridge
Follow the Peasant's Ridge track until on the main ridge before crossing the creek to peasant's ridge. Ascend this rounded ridge easily in open forest until over a knoll. Follow the pad up the crest until coming across a rocky razorback. To ascend the razorback follow the apron to the west until it becomes easy to move up on the top. Once on the razorback follow this for about an hour with some huge exposure on either sides and some spicy moves as it narrows to a sheer knife edge. At the end of the razorback a tricky descent is forced on a short slab with little holds. After the razorback the ridge widens and is heavily vegetated but easy to navigate. A second rocky tower have to be contoured on the west until the ascent is forced in a slimy corner. Good hold exist on the face to the LHS with some exposure. The final rocky outcrop is again bypassed on the left until an easy looking ramp will take you to the top of the ridge just above old hut saddle. Scramble easily to the top of east peak. | 850m | |||
1 | ★ South Ridge
Also known as Peasant's Ridge, this is the easiest route up Mt Barney. From Yellowpinch, follow the road that follows Cronan Creek and skirts the south face. Around 4km hiking will bring you to the entrance for the trail which is clearly signposted. From there, follow the obvious track up the mountain, encountering two very minor technical difficulties at "The Slab" and "The Staircase". Eventually, you will find yourself in East-West Saddle, also known as The Rum Jungle. From here, the ascent to East Peak is relatively straightforward although vague at times. Although this is the easiest route on the mountain, it still requires a long approach and 1000m of vertical gain and loss. As such, it is often underestimated by inexperienced parties - don't go underprepared. | 850m | |||
2 | ★ Savages Ridge
Walk up the road next to Cronan Creek past South Ridge trail head, until Egans Creek has been crossed, then walk another 200m. Immediately before the next creek crossing, ascend the spur on your right (marked by a star picket Nov 2022). A gentle incline on a footpad followed by some steep scrub bashing will bring you to Savages Peak. There are fantastic views from here. The route turns north and then north east towards West Peak along an enjoyable razorback outcrop and a jump over the void at the top of the rocky ridge is the highlight of this section. The ascent up West Peak is made through a narrow gully that is the crux of the route and needs to be done with care. In no time West Peak summit is reached. Overall, Savages Knoll at the crest of this ridge and the razorback route that leads to West Peak are quite spectacular and yield some unique views of East and West Peak. | 800m | |||
Queensland South East Scenic Rim Mt Barney East Peak | |||||
2 | ★★ South-East Ridge
A nice day hike up the ridge starting from Yellowpinch Carpark, with the final 1km to the summit offering nice scrambling in a fantastic position. Navigational aids receommmended in case the faint track is lost, especially post-fires. | 900m | |||
3 | ★★ SE Middle Ridge | 1000m | |||
2 | ★ Little Logan's Ridge
The rocky ridge directly south of Logan's ridge. It starts at a creek junction behind Yellowpinch Hill. Can be accessed by rockhopping Logan River either sides of Yellowpinch of traverse south from lower Logan's Ridge. Both approaches are long, steep and extremely vegetated. This is an off track route. Once the rocky ridge proper is reached, the scrambling is pleasant, typical Barney slabs on bomber rock. Once the ridge ends on the bottom of the east face, the summit can be reached by climbing an obvious long gully on the right side of the east face or by escaping to Logan's Ridge with a slow and scrubby traverse. | 500m | |||
3 | ★★★ Logan's Ridge
A superb scramble up an exposed rocky ridgeline. Access by walking back along the road from Yellowpinch carpark before heading into the bush towards the ridge. The scramble is more difficult and exposed the more left you stay on the ridge. FA: Captain Logan, 1828 | 750m | |||
Queensland South East Scenic Rim Mt Barney North Peak | |||||
2 | ★★ North Ridge | 650m | |||
2 | Rocky Gully | 500m | |||
Queensland South East Scenic Rim Mt Barney Isolated Peak | |||||
4 | ★★ Isolated South East ridge
Start at Lower Portals carpark, follow the track over the first ridge to Rocky Creek. Leave the track on the left and follow a bearing SSW towards isolated creek gully. The base of the ridge has 2 distinct buttresses and the right one, to the north, has a scrambable line. The ridge is relatively open, slabby and leads over Isolated Shoulder to the summit of Isolated Peak. A cruxy buttress at half way requires careful navigation to avoid roping up and some exposure. This ridge is fairly short but more difficult than Logan's, for a comparison. | 420m | |||
2 | ★★ Eagle's Ridge
Eagle's Ridge is the longest route on Mt Barney, stretching from Lower Portals to East Peak. Follow the spur across Tom's Tum and Isolated Peak before gaining North Peak and proceeding to East Peak. Bring a rope, lots of water, a headlamp, and get ready for a big day out (something between 7 and 12 hours). A rope is not mandatory as all difficulties can be avoided. If you wish to follow the true ridge exactly as it lies, than there is a mandatory rappel off the South West side of Isolated Peak. | 1500m | |||
Queensland South East Scenic Rim Mt Barney Tom's Tum | |||||
3 | ★ South Tum East Ridge
This ridge has clean rock all the way to the summit of the southernmost Tum, just north of Isolated Peak. The scrambling is easy with the exception of the first 40m, right at the beginning of the rock apron, where some delicate and exposed climbing is necessary to reach a lower gradient above and the ridge proper. Views of Isolated peak impressive east face are enjoyed for most part of the ridge. Once on top, Eagles ridge trail is joined. This ridge is easily approached as Isolated ridges but to the north. | 270m | |||
Queensland South East Scenic Rim Mt Barney West Peak/North-West ridges | |||||
1 | Short Barrabool Ridge
Enter Barrabool creek from Barney creek. The ridge starts at the first creek intersection, in the middle of the two streams. A steep slog over scrubby and loose terrain, going through 3 distinct rocky outcrops. The first two can be either scrambled or bypassed on the RHS (west), the last one is an unavoidable dirty slab scramble with little exposure. The summit of Barrabool Peak has some spectacular but rough camp spots. The final ascent to West Peak (Mt. Barney highest point) is loose and dangerous. A faint food pad can be followed intermittently in a straight line from the saddle, aiming at a point to the left of the summit proper. Easy scrambling but very loose and steep terrain. Once on the top, veer right for a scrub bash to the summit. | 850m | |||
1 | ★ Midget Ridge
A less travelled route up Mt Barney, beginning from Upper Portals and following the ridgeline south to Bippoh Peak (Midget) and then up West Peak via its Northern Ridge. Heavily vegetated. | 950m | |||
2 | ★★★ Barney Gorge
Beginning at Lower Portals, this alpine flavoured adventure follows Barney Creek before going up Barney Gorge all the way to Rum Jungle in the saddle between East and West Peak. This route can be dangerous after heavy rain. | 600m | |||
Queensland South East Scenic Rim Mt Barney Mt Ernest | |||||
2 | ★★ North Face
An unlikely but excellent scramble up the rocky northern aspect of the mountain. Follow the spurline all the way from Burbank campsite to arrive at the base of the north face. Ascend scree slope to gain the ridge where some low-angle rhyolite columns make for interesting scrambling. | 300m | |||
1 | ★ Northeast Ridge
An easy ridge hike with a few sections of scrambling. This route is loose and vegetated with little to recommend it. | 600m | |||
Queensland South East Scenic Rim Mt Barney Mt Gillies | |||||
3 | ★ The kids climb
| 8m | |||
Queensland South East Scenic Rim Mt. Greville Sector 1 | |||||
4 | Gully
| 25m | |||
Queensland South East Scenic Rim Mt Maroon The Lost Cliff | |||||
3 | Lost In A Lost World
Easy looking route about 2/3 the way left along the cliff. Follow a crackline up over the cliff. FA: Mark Gamble, 2007 | 55m | |||
Queensland South East Gold Coast Pages Pinnacle | |||||
3 | ★ Valencia
10m or so L of Are We Dancer. Vegetated right-trending access ramp (line of least resistance) to the L side of the Sun Bowl sector (with lower off). First FH at about 10m. FFA: Lee Cujes, 2010 | 15m, 3 | |||
Queensland Central Bowen Queens Bay Broken Glass Boulders | |||||
VB- | Windows
Tree totally in... | 4m | |||
Queensland Central Bowen Horseshoe Bay South Side boulders | |||||
VB- | Route 1
Head up through cool featured honeycomb looking rock FA: unknown | ||||
VB- | Route 2
FA: unknown | ||||
Queensland Central Mackay Cape Hillsborough | |||||
4 | The doors of hell
Top access for top roping | 5m | |||
Queensland Central Cania Gorge Cow Tracks | |||||
3 | Lost Santa
Chimney to chimney along halfway ledge. Just logging it cause the name amused my tiny brain. | 70m | |||
Queensland North Innisfail Flying Fish Point Flying Fish Point North | |||||
VB- | As Easy As Fishing
Sit start at base of arete, pull up, stand up, grab the top, easy mantle over. FA: Nick Murphy, 4 May 2020 | 2m | |||
Queensland North Innisfail Etty Bay Etty Bay North | |||||
VB- | ★ Gonna Need A Lawyer For That Stare-Case
The obviously easy ultra-juggy staircase face to the left. Of the corner with plenty of pockets and edges. Great for the kids. Often used as a descent route for the other problems on this face. FA: Nick Murphy, 25 Apr 2020 | 5m | |||
VB- | King Salomon
Super easy juggy ramp, great for kids or helping people get used to heights over pads before trying other problems nearby. Sit start on the ledge, grab jugs and pull up and follow up the sharp arete to the right of the descent gully. FA: Nick Murphy, 25 Apr 2020 | 4m | |||
Queensland North The Citadel | |||||
4 | Unclimbed easy route
Starting about 3m R of "Unclimbed arete route". Up twin, wide, slabby cracks, then runout up slab to top and probable tree belay. | ||||
Queensland North Townsville Harvey’s Marbles The Inner Circle The Fun Parlour | |||||
VB- | ★★★ Little Mans Arete
FA: quinn sheehan | ||||
Queensland North Townsville Frederick Peak South Sentinel Escape Alley | |||||
4 | ★★ Monkey on a String VS
Starts at the north end of Escape Alley at a small tree belay. Joins into the final 3 pitches of "Monkey on a String". Walk out along the long ledge passing the descent chains. Finish on the R of the block. FFA: Rik Witkopp & Mark Gommers, 2003 | 48m | |||
Queensland North Townsville Mt Stuart The Nursery Cliff | |||||
3 | Newbies
Cleft at R end of wall | 5m | |||
Queensland North Townsville Mt Stuart Nameless Wall | |||||
4 | Agababymemnon
Chimney L of Deception FA: Andrew Rule FFA: 1997 | 7m | |||
Queensland North Townsville Magnetic Island Rocky Bay Left Side | |||||
VB- | Nothing he just waved.
| 2m | |||
VB- | Do you sea what I did there?
| 2m | |||
VB- | Seariously... Do you?
| 2m | |||
Queensland North Townsville Magnetic Island Alma Bay | |||||
VB- | Make love, not war
Slab climb as you arrive at the boulder. | 2m | |||
VB- | Easy crack
| ||||
VB- | Manacle
| 3m | |||
Queensland North Townsville JCU / Defence University Wall | |||||
1 | School's Out
Very much a beginner stroll. Start is marked. Climbs the black streak up slab 4m L of CF. A tree for belay is 5m to the R. FA: Steve Baskerville & Jason Shaw, 1998 | 10m | |||
South Australia Flinders Ranges Point Bonney | |||||
2 | Mallard
| 50m | |||
South Australia Flinders Ranges Moonarie Checkers Wall | |||||
4 | Vandals Delight
| 110m | |||
South Australia Flinders Ranges Moonarie Jaffle Wall | |||||
4 | Jaffle Come Home
| 40m | |||
South Australia Flinders Ranges Moonarie Lower Tiers Lower Crag | |||||
4 | The Rocking Stone
| 66m | |||
4 | Yaldimirovich
| 56m | |||
4 | Sitona
| 55m | |||
4 | Teupines
| 65m | |||
South Australia Flinders Ranges Rawnsley Bluff Moonlight Buttress | |||||
2 | Re-entry
Easy access route. Scramble the joint crack come chimney. There is a bushy ledge 5m below the top. | ||||
South Australia Flinders Ranges Devil's Peak Western Walls | |||||
4 | Ambling Like an Old Codger Can
An absolute path up the wall right of Flip. FFA: Nick Neagle, 1988 | 10m | |||
South Australia Flinders Ranges Devil's Peak The Point | |||||
3 | Too Old to Rock'n'Roll, Too Young to Die
The final arete of the cliff. Matt Adams Solo. FFA: Matt Adams, 1990 | 20m | |||
South Australia Eyre Peninsula Mt Greenly Car parks | |||||
4 | Guns......Get Down!
4 m right of Oyter Pie, several different routes can be taken. Lots of holds, great for beginner leading. | 10m | |||
South Australia Mid North Booborowie | |||||
4 | Mountain Hill
FA: Deb Chuurches & Jasmin Witham, 1999 | ||||
3 | Hard and Easy for Kids
FA: Deb Churches & Jasmin Witham, 1999 | ||||
South Australia Mid North Bee Vee Face | |||||
4 | Scot Free
The chimney in the center of the lower half of the wall FA: Dave Jennings, 1987 | 15m | |||
South Australia Adelaide Montacute Left Tit | |||||
4 | Whalebone
| 14m | |||
South Australia Adelaide Morialta Far Crag | |||||
4 | Vug
Up to a bushy ledge near the left end of the cliff then the corner on the right. "Rock Climbing Around Adelaide" FA: Craig Hill, Mike Ashton & Graham Hill, 1968 | 16m | |||
4 | Mud in Yer Eye
| 14m | |||
South Australia Adelaide Morialta The Boulder Bridge | |||||
4 | Loose Living
| 18m | |||
4 | Tora
| 18m | |||
4 | Gut
Well Named. The V corner is actually a climb, but you may not have noticed. | 11m | |||
South Australia Adelaide Morialta The Billiard Table | |||||
4 | The Rim
| ||||
South Australia Adelaide Morialta Mirror Wall | |||||
4 | On the Freeway
| 14m | |||
South Australia Adelaide Morialta Deja Vu Buttress | |||||
4 | Pink Panther
| ||||
South Australia Adelaide Morialta Wedge Wall | |||||
4 | Frozen Nuts
| ||||
South Australia Adelaide Morialta Western Wall | |||||
4 | Sleepy Hollow
| ||||
South Australia Adelaide Morialta Closed First Falls Area | |||||
3 | Staircase
| ||||
4 | Escalator
| ||||
3 | Oz
| ||||
3 | The Womble Chimney
| ||||
South Australia Adelaide Slapes Gully | |||||
4 | Tweedledee | 11m | |||
4 | Tweedledum | 11m | |||
South Australia Adelaide Onkaparinga Top Cliff Dork Slabs | |||||
3 | Learner's Permit
FA: Mike Ashton, 1980 | 8m | |||
South Australia Adelaide Onkaparinga Top Wall | |||||
3 | Phuk Phace | 10m | |||
South Australia Adelaide Onkaparinga The Punchbowl | |||||
4 | Things That Go Bump in the Night | 10m | |||
South Australia Mt Crawford Area Para Wirra South Parra River She Devils Top Roping | |||||
4 | Slab That Silly
Slab all the way to the gum tree left around the tree CAUTION LOOSE BLOCK NEAR TREE DON'T PULL ON IT and finish | 9m | |||
South Australia Murraylands Raetjen's Gap The Main Cliff | |||||
3 | ★ Tree Ferns Don't Wear Earrings
| 15m | |||
South Australia Murraylands Raetjen's Gap South West Crag | |||||
4 | Awshit
Over boulders 2M R of ST then L and up a roofed corner. FA: Simone Barrow, 1977 | 13m | |||
South Australia Murraylands Raetjen's Gap Unicorn Rock | |||||
4 | Hippopotamus
| 7m | |||
3 | Firemare
| 5m | |||
4 | Pegasus
| 5m | |||
3 | Bindi The Horse
| 5m | |||
South Australia Murraylands Kitticoola Pandora's Box | |||||
4 | Andy Pandy
FA: Mike Ashton & Karen Bennett, 1980 | 15m | |||
South Australia Murraylands Reedy Creek The Gallery | |||||
4 | All Thunked Out
Around the arete L of WS is a short, wide crack leading to an easy angled ramp corner. FFA: Mike Ashton & Peter Leach, 1979 | 9m | |||
South Australia Fleurieu Peninsula The Bluff The Inlet Faces | |||||
3 | Meander | ||||
South Australia Fleurieu Peninsula Waitpinga Mollusc Wall | |||||
4 | Rhythm Method
| ||||
South Australia Fleurieu Peninsula Waitpinga Cephalopod Wall | |||||
4 | Simpkin's Chimney
| ||||
Northern Territory Top End Bomb Site (Katherine) Arrakis | |||||
VB- | Warm Up 1
Easy warm up boulder on a third rock (boulder) south of the main boulder. FA: Dirk Nouvel, 7 Jul 2023 | 3m | |||
Northern Territory Central Australia Eastern MacDonnells Emily Gap Main Wall | |||||
4 | Threllin
Wide crack/corner in gully just R of CT. When it degenerates to a scramble traverse R to just above a tree to gain chimney which is followed to top. FA: John Griffiths (solo), 1973 | 38m | |||
Tasmania South East Hobart and surrounds Mount Wellington Summit Boulders Dildo blocks | |||||
VB- | ★★ Demented Dalek
Climb the broken pinnacle from a stand start. All sides are as easy as each other. | 4m | |||
Tasmania South East Hobart and surrounds Rocky Tom Castle Rock | |||||
4 | Twilight Climb
| 3m | |||
Tasmania South East Hobart and surrounds Rocky Tom Shadow Buttress | |||||
4 | Beginners Chimney
| 8m | |||
Tasmania East Freycinet National Park Hazards Cliffs | |||||
3 | ★★★ Skyline Traverse
From sleepy bay head to mt Amos via Parsons and Dove. Faint white paint marks and cairns help. Much slabbing , mantling, and a few bouldery spots. | 2000m |