Routes in Australia for selected grade

Climb the slabby face, very easy yet fun, great boulder problem for kids

Low traverse of the slab between '133bpm Left' and 'The Heart Beat' in either direction.

Stand start. Climb the slab on the far left.

Stand start to the slab.

Sit start the left arête.

Hang start the right arête.

Stand start the diagonal crack

Great beginner climb. Use flake to follow curve up, topping out

These problems are on the beach side of OTG. Follow the flake up to the top.

Obvious gully to the left of Grandma Baz. Easy down scramble.

A classic ridge traverse.

Park at the Dove Lake carpark (arrive early to avoid shuttle bus). Walk the West side of Dove Lake and take the Lake Wilks Track up to the Face Track. Approximately 200m North (Left) on the Face Track a definite (cairned) pad heads uphill (1.5 hours). Alternatively, walk on the east side of the lake and take the track up to Hanson Peak (a left hand turn just near Glacier Rock). Follow this along the ridge line, summitting Hansons peak and linking into the Face Track, all the way until the cairned path that leads off to the left up to the summit of Little Horn. If you take this approach and come to the sign for the Lake Wilks track you have come too far.

Follow steep path to summit of Little Horn, then begin scramble down towards saddle. 1-2 short (<10m) abseils may be advisable depending on conditions. Walk/Scramble across saddle to base of Weindorfer's Tower and a vegetated ledge.

From here, a narrow pad may be visible on the right (West) side leading to exposed scrambling; consider roping up. The route takes the line of resistance over rocks and vegetation, approximately following the line of the ridge.

After the summit of Weindorfer's Tower there is a 23m abseil from a large boulder; tat may be in place. The start of this abseil can be safely scrambled down in good conditions taking you to a Horn that can be slung for an approx. 10m abseil. The route then continues as before, though generally easier and on the left (East) side of the ridge, with one very exposed rocky traverse on the right (West) side.

The route eases as approaching Smithies Peak, then descends slightly to main summit path which is followed to Cradle Mountain summit. Return via summit walking track.

Gear: 50m rope, abseil tat, 10-12 slings, large nuts/hexes. Helmets recommended, climbing shoes unnecessary.

Time: 9-10 hours car to car.

If the weather turns, there are a couple of points where you can bail out fairly easily. This is after descending Little Horn (there is actually a path leading from the saddle to face track) and after abseiling off Weindorfers tower, this would involve a bit of bushbashing, but doesn't look too steep.

Starting just left of the arete for an easy rising traverse to the highest point.

Up the left end slab/feature.

Up the right feature.

The right hand line of the boulder.

Start at the base of Dunson and head up the left side of the boulder.

Up the arete and all the way along, quite a good warm up.

Short arete on downhill side. Average.

On the Lyell side of the boulder there is two obvious rising traverses, this one is done with hands in the upper break and feet in the lower, toping out at the end of the break.

On the right end.

Up the right side and traverse the lip.

On the far right end.

This is actually the slab boulder to right. Super easy but actually quite nice rock and movement.

The right or eastern face and arete of the boulder is a good warm up.

Access via tolkien track until you reach Gandalf’s staff then head 20m uphill until you reach another giant tree where the splinter crack is located. Jam your way into the canopy until crack fuses, then down climb cleaning all the bomber gear you just placed. Size 4 cam recommended.