Routes in Australia for selected grade

A pleasant, low-angled buttress.

Start: Start 20m L of Melville's Cave.

A pleasant jug-haul arete.

Start: The arete right of the walk-down gully.

Hard start, then easy climbing to the ledge.

A direct finish continues up the crack above this ledge at about grade 18.

The rightmost deep gully facing the road.

Great beginner's route.

Start as for 'Sickle' and go up this a little way then step left to short ramp then up shallow corner. Climbing it direct is around grade 8, but has no protection.

Crack 2m R of the L edge of the wall.

The middle chimney, starting 2m right of Dylan.

On the black/grey slab, in the gully right of Dog Wall are the next 3 routes. You pass under them descending from Hard Ears. Up following juggy left edge of slab.

Climb the corner system, which these days is laced with long lengths of fixed chains to ease the way for soloing (this being the fastest way to get up to the Bluffs climbing areas). If you do decide to solo up or down it, don't underestimate the polished rock and the deathfall potential; consider using a suitable running tether. Start 15m R of Bygone, under the huge left-facing corner system, behind Fang Buttress.

Up the juggy wall on the north face of John's pinnacle, close to Denim Wall. Bad pro and rock but if that doesn't put you off at this grade then it's a nice summit to bag.

Start on the Back Wall of Pharos, 4m down and left of “The North East Ridge of the Pharos”. Offers the easiest access to the “Tennis Court”.

1. 10m (3) Start at the foot of a chimney. Up and then traverse left to gain the northern face of the Pharos.

2. 25m (4) Take the line of least resistance up easy series of steps until you gain a ledge that is at same height as Spiral Staircase’s first belay.

3. 8m (2) Walk to Spiral Staircase’s first belay.

Jeu do paume. Combined with 'Key hole Scramble', a useful access to or egress from the Tennis Court.

Start on the ledge below 'French Crack'.

Traverse right into the bay ('Five Fingered Mary') to an exposed step around and up the rib. Possible belay at chains ('Horus') to reduce rope drag. Scramble onto the Tennis Court.

Even shorter corner L of SN, then follow front of buttress to the top. Great route for kids.

Left edge of left wall of alcove.

Fun.

Start: Start: Right of 'Mermaid Avenue' and before the arete of 'Manatee Fair' there is a crack line up the wall.

Start: Start: 2m right of 'Melville's Moby Dick Ooh Er'.

Climbs pitch one of Guiding Light to ledge, then through gully to exit.

1. Climb first pitch of Guiding Light to large ledge. Belay at left end of ledge near the base of wide chimney.

2. Climb the juggy left face in chimney to join the finish of the original route.

Beautiful rock but the 20+ year-old sling will need replacing. Originally written up as starting up 'Dead Fox' after mis-identifying the easier climbs in the area.

The easy stepped line, moving right at the top to below a steep wall. Move up to a ledge and step right, exposed, and up on jugs.

Start: Start about 15 metres left of "Eternal Youth, 7 metres left of "Dead Fox" behind a large block at the left and front end of the lower tier.

The descent ropute. Easy corner nearest the carpark. Colin Mibus used this route for ascent/descent eons ago with his .22 to frighten bunnies.

. On the the North wall (the first wall you reach).

Sounds gorgeous. Easy line 6m R of 'Rungwalk'.

Up the crack, with a ledge and small pine at half height. A poorly protected alternative finish is further to the R, the arete L of 'Odlid Baggins'.

Start: Start beneath the deep wide crack.

Sure Punks was influential, but these route names are getting ridiculous!

Start: Start just R of DPitMotR and just L of 'Cypress'.

Up the face 1.5 L of the arete.

Start: STart a few m R of EMP, 1.5m L of the arete.

Apparently this navigates similar territory as ZM, but at 16 grades less...

Start: Start 2m L of ZM.

Up to the cave, traverse left for 8m below roof, then up tot he top. This is the easiest descent for this area and 'Clicke Wall' if you don't use the rap chain above 'Clicke Wall'.

Start at the orange and grey rock just L of Sunstroke at the 'cheating stones'. Head diagonally L finishing as for Coccyx Corner.

Initialled 2m right of A, 6m left of gully

Follow tracks from Halls Gap; following the Venus Baths track. Just before Venus Baths, the track goes up stairs to left on the way to Splitters Falls. Follow track until near river - then over rocks to the other side. Theres a boulder feild over this: up right and around to top to the base of route.

1. 50m/3 - Starts low across river going up wall and weaving left before tending back right. Belay at boulders.

2. 50m/2 - Up over boulders up high past deep channels and belay on top of boulders up right.

3. 50m/2 - Follow major ridge tending right and up to before break

4. 50m/3 - Off to right from belay and up to large ledge.

5. 40m/2 - Up steep wall onto easy terrain - belay at large block

6. 60m/1 - Weaves on scrambles up low slabs to corner crack.

7. 35m/4 - Interesting corner and good gear. Up and over the left of this to bollard belays.

8. Over deep chasms and up far wall to left side of summit of Mackeys Peak.

Descent via scrambling back down towards pitch 7 but then left and down to right; following down slot to walking track. Track leads back to Halls Gap

Named due to the crevasse like features on the slabs, the wandering nature of the route and the atrocious conditions it was climbed in - wet and mossy.

Approach: From Halls gap take the wonderland track to the spotlight boulder. At the spotlight boulder bash through and up towards a prominent wall (potential for a direct start) and then head climbers right until you open up onto the slabs. From here break through the first overlap and the route begins.

From here pick your own adventure, going climbers left as you hit the 'crevasses' until you are near the north ridge itself. From here charge up the immaculate rock, jumping and stepping over where necessary. Near the top there is rounded en cheval section and then straight forward scrambling to the top.

A rope and a light rack may be necessary if wet, from the slabs starting it would be about 6 pitchs never harder than grade 4.

From the left most of the two descent gullies walk left through the slot against the cliff to the chimney 15m left of its left end (i.e. the second chimney). Climb the chimney for 2m then the left arête

There are 2 obvious deep lines on the cliff [you can see them from the carpark]. The left one.

Easy access up the back of block. Large corner with bulges on easy terrain. Good for setting up anchors at top and for abseil/top rope access to cliff.

Classic bumbly route in great position. The approach just adds to the adventure.

It takes the massive whaleback ridge that is almost equidistant between "Gondwanaland" and "Red Sail" and can be approached from either.

A climb of quality. Take the major corner. Move right when below the roof and continue up the wall.

Easy chimney 3 metres left of "Trial Balance".

Don't bother.

Start about 5 metres right of Tourist Party.

Up slabby rib to overhang. Go left and up the corner for a few metres then back right to finish up the rib.

Probably a repeat of Hussite... yet a grade easier? This route starts from the base of the cliff, directly below Hussite. 1) 14m Straight up to the terrace. 2) 25m Straight up Hussite’s crack.

Slab 3 metres left of "Hussite", 2 metres right of left arete.

Short corner around left end of the outcrop.

From Pintle Start looking back 10m toward the Hump is a large flat rock that steepens into the bushes below. Start in the bushes R side of flake. Easy beginners lead

Looking Down the rocky gully the first feature on the right is a small alpine type arete. The Climb takes the slab at the L of the arete.

The slab, then a series of steps to the crest of the arete. Up broken rock above to belay on top.

Up LHS crack

Start under boulders 15m right of Tewkesbury and move up left under them then follow the easiest path up the slab.

Climb the pockets from a sit start.

Climb the high slab on the left.