Routes in Australia for selected grade

L. side of boulder.

Up ledges on the R. side of the Elf Cave.

Escalater Direct

R edge of the slab.

Step onto the slab and up.

Stand start the L side of the arete.

Stand start R side of the rib.

Stand start R arete of boulder.

Left arete of overhanging face. V0 for sit start.

Chimney up the corner using the big tree.

Edge right of One Hander.

The first route you arrive at when walking in from the north. Chimney.

The down climb access route. -S0

the obvious line to get out of the water, reach the top of the rocks and continue to the main area

Halfway between Just Right and Smooth Sailing is a thin crack. Up this and the proceeding juggy staircase above which ends on a small pillar. Step right above the void and belay/abseil from the anchor on smooth sailing. Quite a good ramble.

The deep and dark chimney on your right just before the rock-hop to the main crag. Climb the chimney and exit via the hole in the top between the huge boulder. Can be easily protected if you want to rope up.

Do Jihad and Rain of Terror, put your walking shoes back on, then:

1. Walk to the other (southeast) end of the Wedding Cake to 2 bolt anchor.

2. Abseil 35m down the southwest side (down the grade 16 Wedding Cake Return Pitch) to bushy area.

3. Walk NORTHWEST for 30-40m, down a few metres, then back southeast for ~150m (exposed at times) to where the track ends in a little alcove below some 6m high cracks/corners. Squeeze through the slot to rubble ledge and big spike.

4. 55m The Stegosaurus Pitch! Great fun. Place minimal pro on this to avoid drag, your primarily protecting the second, its mostly scrambling. Up the LH corner or the crack just R (same grade) onto the ridge. Then head southeast over the lumps, up 5m chimney onto the biggest lump, then chimney 8m down off it (due to the amount of rope out, both leader and second are basically soloing these chimneys), and walk/scramble another 15m southeast to 2 bolt rap anchor atop the next chimney.

5. 38m abseil/walk diagonally down the ramps above the seal colony to the base of Pole Dancer. You can place 1 or 2 cams (#1-3 range) as directionals for both abseilers, and leave them there as lead pro for the return scramble. This is the only spot where a single 70m rope is not quite enough but it's a good ledge by the time you run out of rope so no problem if you are ready to go off the ends. You are now at the base of the Pole Dancer first pitch chimney.

Exit/Entry route

Head straight up the face on the right hand side of the corner using the large plate.

Layback sit start, continue laying back until you top out!

Climbs the finger crack. Easy and fun!

Traverse right to left, no top holds!

Traverse right to left using the top holds.

left of descent scramble

Same start as Matt Damon!, easy but freaky top out directly above.

Arete

Right of Arete

Nice easy jugs on the bottom of the boulder and up

Easy problem up to the right

Right hand arete of slab

Top arête - also usable as the downclimb.

Sit Start just left of corner, pull up and top out straight via mantle

Sit Start in corner and climb up using corner and slopers on right

Sit start at the side pull/crack, mantle onto ledge on the left and top out as for #4

This stinky corner is home to lots of live bugs, dead bugs. dead seagulls, live grandma's handbags, dead grandma's handbags and God knows what else. Climb it if you feel like punishing yourself.

Start: The obvious corner where the Red Face meets the overhanging Blue Face.

Easy corner

High corner

Crack and broken face

Crack

On the boulder above and behind 'Happy, Happy, Joy, Joy'. Climb the featured face.

Easy face.

Easy slab.

Start on the flake at face-level and go up. Sit down start would be harder.

Climb the cracks from a sit

Sit start arete

On the inland side of the boulder, this is the decent route. Stand start.

Just right of 'The Decent of the Dinsosaurs', climb the slab.

Climb the face just right of the arete on good holds.

Rightside of face on large moves between great holds.

Climb the right side of the face on great holds.

Crack

Climb the face with the diagonal crack. Pretty good!

Corner crack

Climb the crack using either both or the right crack. Either way is about the same difficulty.

Stand

Stand

Stand start the arete to the left of My Brown Dog, east and fun slab climbing

Stand start on the huge step and mantle the top of the boulder

Stand start and mantle straight up

Stand start and mantle towards the right hand side of the boulder

(Stand)

(Stand)

The next few problems are on the northern side of the boulders.

Sit start arête.

Sit start with both hands and feet on the arete, lay back your way up to top corner of arete then trend left not using the top of the boulder until you pass the ‘disconnected’ bloc then top out to finish.

Crack in middle of slab.

Easy cracks to R of previous problem

Sit start on the lip jug in the hanging corner to the right of Stingray, mantle the top

Easy featured slab, also the descent

Easy right arete

Arete

Crack

Sit start. Climb up the cracks with good opposing jugs.

Easy climbing on great rock. Follow the crack line up starting on the platform just above sea level. Solo first ascent, but appears that there would be good gear for a trad lead.

Stand start

Start on small rail then head up and top out.

Stand Start on two jugs and top out

Stand start on the arete, climb up through good holds and topout.