Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bushranger Bluff Main Wall | |||||
7 | ★ Little Revolver Crack
Discontinuous cracks. Start: Start just L of 'Revolver Crack'. | 20m | |||
6 | ★ Revolver Crack
The deep crack. Start 20m right of Melville's Cave. FA: Maurice & Keith Leslie, 1967 | 20m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bushranger Bluff Back Wall | |||||
7 | ★ Trooper One
Crack to horizontal break, then go 2m right and up crack. Start: 1m left of small cave on the grey wall just left of the descent gully. FA: Peter Martin, 1981 | 10m | |||
6 | ★ Trooper Three
The crack with a hard start. Start at the right side of the grey wall. FA: Peter Martin, 1981 | 10m | |||
6 | ★ Cartridge Wall
The wall between 'Cartridge Arete' and 'Cartridge Chimney'. | 10m | |||
6 | ★ Cartridge Chimney
The chimney. Start: Just R of 'Cartridge Arete'. FA: Bill Andrews & Julie Tulloch, 1975 | 10m | |||
7 | ★ Dead Ned
A nice little line. Start up the left edge of the orange wall, then step right and proceed up the weakness on good holds. FA: Unknown, 2000 | 10m | |||
6 | ★ Cobb & Co.
The steep orange corner facing L. Start 0.5m R of OC. FA: Bill Andrews & Julie Tulloch, 1975 | 12m | |||
7 | ★ Tullah's Tease
Layback for 5m then step right into crack. Start: Start 5m right of 'Cobb & Co'. FA: John Fisher, 1983 | 12m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Closed Declaration Crag Area Declaration Crag | |||||
8 | ★ Marshmallow Sea DS
The undercut direct start to 'Marshmallow Sea' is definitely a little harder than the original. | 14m | |||
7 | Marshmallow Sea
Move left to the sparsely protected smooth wall facing the road. Start: As for 'Deck Gully' but move left and up, finishing past the small overhang. FA: Kevin Lindorff & Ken Taylor, 1975 | 14m | |||
7 | Taya
Good beginner's lead. Start just left of the plaque and right of the small overhang. Climb the wall between 'Hammer' and 'Slip Knot'. FA: Taya Cross & Glenn Mostert, 1997 | 12m | |||
5 | ★ The Pleb
The chimney on the south-west side of the outcrop. FA: Chris Baxter & Andrew Smith, 1966 | 27m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Colosseum Wall Area Colosseum Wall | |||||
5 | Spasticus
The scrubby corner. | 10m | |||
6 | Toga
The line. Start around R from 'Castration', on the wall facing The Pines, at the initial. FA: Paul Gillis, John Bowen & Peter Lindorff, 1970 | 12m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area The Shark fin | |||||
5 | milking the dorsal fin
| 7m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area White Mice Walls | |||||
7 R | The Shaker
An obscure choice for this era when almost all the other classics of 'Arapiles' were still unclimbed! For over thirty years guidebooks placed this climb in the wrong gully. The good news is that no-one has missed it. Some awful rock. Start a few metres right of A Sore Finger. There's a wonky letter S painted somewhere.
FA: Daryl Carr & Jerry Grandage, 1966 | 66m, 3 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area Light Fingered Gully | |||||
8 R | ★★ The Match
Head R then up the chossy front-side of the prow. Start: Start at the teetering stack on the R side of the gully, at the initials. FA: Chris Baxter & Andrew Smith, 1966 | 25m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Slander Wall | |||||
7 | Prairie
Probably worthless but no-one has definitely located it. Start about 60 metres up King Rat Gully where the left side becomes a short juggy wall. Prairie starts at the steep line 2 metres right of a corner. Up the crack on good holds until a ledge at 25m. Traverse off left along tis ledge. FA: Clive Parker & Graham Squire, 1977 | 50m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area Lizard Procrastination Pinnacle | |||||
7 | ★ Easy Lizard
Follow Lizard Procrastination to the ledge below the final overhang. Head up and right on juggy wall to ledge on right arete. Step back left and up steep juggy crack to top. | 50m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae House of Atreus | |||||
7 | ★ Cauldron
Completely redundant by today's standards...but then again it was another era back then, even pre-metric. Start: Start just R of T. FA: John Fahey & Peter Jackson, 1965 | 60m | |||
8 | ★★ Tantalus
Start: Start 10m R of 'Tiresias'.
FA: Dick Salt, Jim Newlands & Alan Marsland, 1965 | 35m, 2 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Central Organ Pipes | |||||
8 | ★★ Diapason
1
7
20m
2
6
25m
3
8
10m
The first climb done in the Organ Pipes. A very pleasant outing. Start 8 metres left of big dead gum tree.
FA: Steve Craddock, Bob Craddock & Rob Taylor, 1963 | 55m, 3 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Leafy Quoit Lump | |||||
5 | Sage Not
This was originally called Sage but as there is already a real climb of that name at Arapiles it has been altered. Northern side of Leafy Quoit Lump. 4 metres right of the overhang, follow crack to the right of hanging boulder, finish up to gap in blocks. Scramble off to right. FA: Tim Harris & Dave Millard, 2004 | 20m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Past Present Buttress | |||||
8 | Echo
This climb is on the north -east face of the buttress. One metre to the right of Past & Present. FA: Troy Surkitt & Dan Cross, 30 Apr 2015 | 10m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Charity Buttress | |||||
6 | Insincere
FA: Goose & Rhi Taylor | 12m | |||
5 | ★ Sincerity
The line starting just left of Charity FA: Gordon & Heather Bedford, 1975 | 14m | |||
7 | ★ Charity
Up the crack. Start: Start under the L crack on the main face. FA: Bruce & Keith Lockwood, 1968 | 14m | |||
5 | Purity
Ramble up the low angled buttress. Start: Start at the next buttress R from T. FA: Keith Lockwood & Ray Lassman, 1981 | 18m | |||
7 | Chastity
Diagonal crack. Start: Start just R of P. FA: Keith Lockwood & Ray Lassman, 1981 | 18m | |||
6 | Clemency
Up low angled face 2m right of 'Dignity' to summit. FA: Pete Holmes & James Best, 2014 | 14m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Cecilia Wall | |||||
6 | Stepping Stones
Up right side of big block on slabby terrace. Step right at bulge. FA: Keith Lockwood | 18m | |||
6 | Skipping Girl
3m right of SS, Slab to weakness. Trend left up slabby rib and bulgy crack then juggy bulge. FA: Keith Lockwood | 18m | |||
8 | Merry Go Round
Slab and bulge at right end of slabby terrace. Continue up yellow tinged corner. FA: Keith Lockwood | 25m | |||
7 | Wool socks and galoshes
This is probably what Noddy has written up as Marbles in Argus, but graded 11!. Start 4m left of Pure and Simple, just right of a flake sticking up out of the ground. Head straight up. Good gear and climbing the whole way. FA: Sarah Natali & Wendy Eden, 5 Dec 2016 | 25m | |||
6 | Space Corp Directive 703472A
Involves a rubber chicken. On the side facing Cecilia, climb low angled, juggy crack on left. FA: Greg Pritchard & Deb Sweet, 1999 | 10m | |||
8 | Emohawk
Scramble down and around the corner left of ETGZ. Start left of right arete. Up and step left onto 'emohawk'. Then up slabby arete. FA: Dwayne Dibbly & Ace Rimmer, 1996 | 10m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Morfydd Wall | |||||
8 | Blinky Bill
This bit of rock is getting more crowded than High Dive Gully. It would be surprising if any of the climbing is new. Start up Kincaid then cross to steep juggy crack on the right wall. From the big ledge (belay possible) climb past the No Standing chains then centrally up headwall. FA: Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 24 Jan 2017 | 25m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Closed Plaque | |||||
8 | Dodgy Brothers
Start: Start 2m R of FoF. FA: Martin Lama & Graeme Smith, 1991 | 10m | |||
8 | Lobbail
Up Loboff till the start of the traverse, then up left through funky bulge. FA: Someone, 2014 | ||||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bluffs Bluff Minor | |||||
7 | Mouse
Start at the top of TK, at the south side of the slot. Chimney out above the Keyhole towards Central Gully, then move around arete onto the south face of Bluff Minor, which is easy but exposed, to bag the summit. FA: Chris Baxter & Andrew Smith, 1966 | 45m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall | |||||
8 | ★★★ Kestrel Alternate Finish
An easy pitch for parties wanting to get from Kestrel to Flinders Lane without an increase in grade. From the belay at the top of the first pitch, step right and climb up right a couple of metres to a ledge system. Walk right across the mossy ledge system to the corner on the final pitch of Yo Yo and follow this to Flinders Lane. Make sure to place a good directional runner after the traverse. | 42m | |||
8 | The Eighth Direct Finish
A way to the top of the cliff. Unfortunately it breaks down very quickly into an unpleasant gully. 20m (8) From the right end of Flinders Lane, climb a juggy corner into a chimney. Belay on second ledge. 45m (4) Up the chimney-gully. FA: Greg Lovejoy & Bob Craddock, 1964 | 60m, 2 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Syrinx Area | |||||
5 | The Wobble
The challenge of this old route, should you choose to accept it, is working out where it goes. Start as for 'Radish'.
FA: Steve Craddock & Bob Craddock, 1963 | 130m, 5 | |||
8 | Pan Groove
A gentle romp that could serve as an alternative start to The Dribble. Up the Pan Grove slab to whitish blocks at 15m. Instead of moving right (as for Pan Grove), continue following the left-leaning groove. When the groove peters out, step slightly right and finish in the obvious groove. Note: the steep bulging crack on the right is lovely to start, but the finishing blocks are a bit dodgy. Belay on the Senior Citizens terrace and descend Pan Grove. FA: Keith Lockwood & John Smart, 20 May 2018 | 40m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Grotto Wall Area Grotto Wall | |||||
8 | ★★ Boundary Rider
A hybrid route between Llareggub and The Flue.
FA: | 45m, 3 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Voodoo Area Dead-point Wall | |||||
8 | The Skeleton Coast
Gets more atmospheric the higher you go. Takes the north ridge of Deadpoint Wall. Start below the U-shaped gully behind Death Row Pinnacle.
FA: Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 27 May 2015 | 75m, 3 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Voodoo Area Ministry Wall | |||||
6 | DSC
"The holds just keep on appearing" Follow the obvious left-leaning diagonal rib to the arete then up. FA: Richard Gaunt, Rhys Boyar & Peter Upton, 3 Jul 2021 | 30m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Death Row Pinnacle | |||||
8 | Water Wings
5 metres right of Howling. Start as for 'Laurel and Hardy' directly under the rap chains. Thereafter take left leaning crease in rock and the easiest left line to the pinnacle summit. FA: Hywel Rowlands & Josh Bassett, 7 Jun 2014 | 25m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Front Wall and West Face | |||||
8 | ★★ Spiral Staircase
Instead of going up to the front, follow the track around and up onto the north shoulder of the Pharos. Start at a low-angled, blunt spur just left of a vegetated gully.
FA: Greg Lovejoy & Steve Craddock, 1963 | 100m, 4 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos The French Crack Area | |||||
6 | Key hole Scramble
Exit the key hole and climb down past rappel station, sticking to easy terrain. | 30m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Vanoise Area | |||||
5 | ★ Romper Room
Easy chimney immediately right of "Cranky Babies", finishing up right wall. FA: Mike & Jenny Ashton, 1987 | 15m | |||
7 | ★ Stairway to Heaven
A gentle ramble with spectacular views all the way. Sort of a companion route to Spiral Staircase. The name also derives from the fact that the first ascent team had a combined age of 269, and featured more than 200 years of climbing experience. Starts between West Coast Dogma and Sombrero, where there is an obvious ledge 2m above the ground.
FA: Keith Lockwood, Keith Royce, Bob Ryan (alt leads), Ray Lassman & Miss Given, 16 Apr 2015 | 90m, 3 | |||
8 | Sombrero
Not great. Some distance down right are low-angled mossy faces with ledges in between. Scramble up to deep, right-facing chimney. This is your mission should you choose to accept it. FA: Lloyd Lobbe & Daryl Carr, 1967 | 84m | |||
7 | South Pacific
The "obvious" right-facing corner on the wall right of Sombrero, then the left of twin lines up the headwall. FA: Kurt Pitts & Keith Lockwood, 5 Apr 2015 | 35m | |||
5 | Davy Jones Locker
Start up the South Pacific corner, then take the right-hand line past an unusual rock crypt. FA: Keith Lockwood, Kurt Pitts & Hamish Pitts, 5 Apr 2015 | 35m | |||
8 | Long John Silver
Best approached by one of the other climbs in the vicinity. Step across the tree-filled gully behind the top of South Pacific etc, follow the weakness in the wall and finish centrally up the juggy tower. FA: Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 8 Apr 2015 | 30m | |||
8 | Pieces of Eight
The easiest slab at Arapiles(?). Could be done as an approach pitch to Long John Silver. Climbs central weakness in the slab around right from Blackbeard. Scramble up to start. Gentle slab split by a juggy crack. FA: Keith Lockwood, Laurie Bennett & Shaun Norman, 21 Apr 2015 | 18m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Duck Crag | |||||
7 | Back by Three
Take the clean orange slab above the southern edge of Duck Crag, finishing on the left side of the summit block. FA: Kieran Loughran, Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 8 Sep 2018 | 15m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Heckle and Jeckle Area | |||||
7 | ★ Heckle
The major corner-chimney bounding the left side of the black slab, mainly climbed on the slab. FA: Norm Booth & Murray Taylor, 1968 | 15m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Voidoid Pinnacle | |||||
8 | ★ Barefoot in the Park
Nice rock, nice moves, brilliant nut pro. With that many superlatives it's gotta be worth a star, right? Start: Start right of 'No Turning Back'. FA: Keith Lockwood & Tim Lockwood, 1995 | 15m | |||
7 | A Walk In The Park
Twin cracks 2 metres right of Barefoot In The Park. FA: Sally Bentley & Eddy Rawlins, 2000 | 10m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Huey and Satellites Upper Pharos Gully | |||||
8 | Teddy Bear's Picnic
A short way downhill from Sheer Ecstasy Wall on the same side of the creek is a small wall. At the start there are two left leaning parallel cracks that merge about halfway up. Take the right hand crack. This has a bouldery start. To the top. Good pro and an easy walk off. FA: Robbie Martin & John Watson, 2013 | 10m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Spellbinder Area | |||||
6 | Jack-a-Dandy
Start at the left hand of two corners where the two walls on the terrace meet, a couple of metres right of "Young, Old and Amputees". The corner. FA: Keith Lockwood, Jack Ford & Tim Lockwood, 1997 | 12m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Cheops Buttress | |||||
5 | ★ Hunting For Swedish Fish
Walk through to the back of the gully where the floor ends at an edge. Up into a scoop in the right wall, then rightwards up ramp and corner. Exit left to belay on boulder ledge. Be wary of the rock. Descent: scramble through (suggest staying roped up) to the rap chains above Fly By Night. FA: Ben Wright & Amber Blodgett., 26 Nov 2017 | 18m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Lower Gully | |||||
8 | The Depths
... of depravity. A spelunking expedition through the bowels of the cliff. Climb into the chimney past the beginning of Open Road and A Bridge Too Far and just keep on going. Easy chimney climbing with a dodgy flake system for gear leads to a good belay above massive chockstones. Some of the poorest rock you'll find at the Mount, not a classic. Turns out to be a variant start to Hunting For Swedish Fish (in Cheops Buttress area). | 35m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Watchtower Faces Pinnacle Face Wedding Tackle Area | |||||
7 | Spare Rib
Climb the front of the clean rib about 12m left of Wedding Tackle. FA: Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 3 Sep 2016 | 30m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Watchtower Faces Pinnacle Face Tiptoe Ridge Area | |||||
5 | ★★★ Tiptoe Ridge
1
3
43m
2
5
27m
3
4
20m
4
5
30m
An alpine-flavoured adventure that surely ranks as one of the finest routes of its grade in the world Start: Left of the prominent ridge is a large terrace. Approach from below and to the left.
FA: Greg Lovejoy & Steve Craddock, 1963 | 120m, 4 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Watchtower Faces Pinnacle Face Area Below Tiptoe Ridge | |||||
8 | Beer and Trembling
Middle of left wall into shallow corner. Exit left FA: Greg Pritxchard & Nicki Sunderland, 1992 | 10m | |||
8 | Falling Numbers
Bridge up groove at back of alcove, swing left onto large flake. FA: Greg Pritchard & Phil Wilkins, 1993 | 20m | |||
8 | ★ Tiptoe Ridge Direct Start
Obvious left diagonal to thin crack | 30m | |||
6 | ★ Ordinary Trees
1
5
30m
2
1
10m
3
6
50m
4
4
50m
"The climbers were so thick they were like ordinary trees". Good to do if the other routes are busy though there could be a bottleneck on the last pitches of 'Tiptoe Ridge'. Start: Start below big right-facing corner system.
FA: Greg Pritchard & punters from Melb. Uni, 1993 | 140m, 4 | |||
5 | ★★ Introductory Route
1
4
25m
2
2
40m
3
5
35m
4
4
35m
The first recorded route at 'Arapiles'. The original route wandered around a lot more than the route as described here. It is fairly safe to say that all of the rock between 'Siren' and 'Ordinary Trees' has been climbed. Start: Start on the right side of the 'Tiptoe Ridge' buttress, about 10 metres right of a major corner (Ordinary Trees), where two detached blocks are sitting just off the ground. There's an overhang about 6 metres up and a large dead tree marking the top of the pitch.
FA: Doug Angus, Bob Craddock & Peter Jackson, 1963 | 140m, 4 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Watchtower Faces Left Watchtower Face | |||||
5 | Rotten Row
Not really a climb, just an escape route. The diagonal ramp leading right from the base of the 'Siren' corner. FA: Steve Craddock & Bob Craddock, 1963 | 60m | |||
5 | Tschumpel
Botanical line behind large dead tree at right end of 'Rotten Row'. FA: Bruno Zeller & Anne McKenzie, 1969 | 42m | |||
7 | Senile
Crack 5 metres right of 'Tschumpel', 1 metre left of 'Bindi'. FA: Bruno Zeller & Anne McKenzie, 1969 | 40m | |||
5 | Bindi
Chimney line 6 metres right of 'Tschumpel' FA: Chris Baxter & Derek Lord, 1967 | 25m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Northern Group Harlequin Cracks Area | |||||
8 | Henry's Sample Is Missing
This pleasant, easy crack midway between The Clown and 'Court Jester' was probably first soloed by Louise to get access to the top of School For Scandal during her massive cleaning exercise. | 12m | |||
8 | Striding Ridge
Another long ramble, about half of which are bits of existing climbs.
FA: Stev Findlay & Keith Lockwood, 15 Aug 2016 | 140m, 5 | |||
6 | ★ BA Mosquito
Pleasant access route to the big terrace. Blunt, slabby arete starting 10 metres right of Beau Geste. FA: Heather Phillips & Bill Andrews, 1983 | 45m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Northern Group Shiralee Wall | |||||
8 | ★ Cold Episode of Influenza
Takes the low angled groove at right end of wall. Shares anchor with I am a Banana Expert. FA: Wendy Eden & Geordie Webb, 25 Mar 2016 | 25m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Northern Group Heath Row Buttress | |||||
8 | Heath Row
Looks quite pleasant despite the odd small shrub. Was upgraded to 15 in Carrigan guide; someone must have strayed onto the then unclimbed Maiden Voyeur! Start: There is a small square chipped in the rock at the base of the route. FA: Ann & Roland Pauligk, 1973 | 48m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Northern Group Echo Crag | |||||
8 | Touchwood
Not without merit, despite the long scrambling start. Start about 50 metres left of Leaden Echo below black and orange buttress.
FA: Keith Lockwood, Chris Baxter & Ed Neve, 1974 | 70m, 2 | |||
8 | ★ Lone Pine Corner
Classic, square-cut corner starting dirctly behind small pine. Finish up easy ground above corner. FA: Keith, Timothy & Fiona Lockwood, 1993 | 30m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Northern Group Evelyn and Lou Area | |||||
8 | Better Not Peak
Up the crack then arete till angle eases. Follow sharp arete to spectacular summit. Start: Start at a crack on the east face of the pinnacle. FA: Greg Pritchard & James Falla, 1999 | 15m | |||
5 | Noodles Romanoff
Follow arete all the way to top. Start: Slightly uphill of BNP, 5 metres left (description says right but that makes no sense) of the start of 'Generation Gap', at the left arete. FA: Greg Pritchard & James Falla, 1999 | 45m | |||
5 | ★ Generation Gap
Pleasant easy climb up a great line. Left facing stepped corner left of the bulging wall with Lou and Evelyn. FA: Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns & Michael Stone, 1979 | 42m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Northern Group Mermaid Avenue | |||||
8 | Oompaloompa
Up streak and continue straight on. Start: About 1m left of 'The First Kiddy Climb' and a bit lower is a orange streak in the middle of black. Sorry kids, but these 2 routes are the complete pox left of the unclimbed grotty corner at the left end of the wall of Mermaid Ave FA: Jack Synnot, Mark Synnot, Zoe Synnot & Pete Canning, 2005 | 8m | |||
8 | The First Kiddy Climb
Not destined for greatness, but when you are only 8 and 10 years old putting up a route is exciting. Start: 1m left of the chimney/corner (unclimbed) FA: Zoe Synnot, Mark Synnot, Jack Synnot & Pete Canning, 2005 | 8m | |||
6 | About a Fat Wench
Originally "About a Fat Wench from Normandy, who Pretended to Have a 'Snake' in Her Belly". Hard to believe he was the father of modern surgery, isn't it? Start: Start: On top of large boulder leaning against wall 2m left of 'Mermaid Avenue' and also looks ok. FA: Greg Pritchard & James Falla, 1999 | 20m | |||
7 | ★ Mermaid Avenue
An old fashioned line, or is that lane, as in bus? Good. Start: Between Lou and 'Stone Age' there is an obvious large chimney in the middle of a sizeable wall. This line is 'Mermaid Avenue'. FA: Greg Pritchard & Paul Hoskins, 1999 | 25m | |||
6 | Melville's Moby Dick, Ooh Er
You know what to do. Start: Start: 2m right of 'Poles Apart' at another line of cracks. FA: Greg Pritchard & Paul Hoskins, 1999 | 15m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Far North Windy Buttress | |||||
6 | The Closet
Huge old-fashioned chimney. FA: Bill Andrews & Allan Hope, 1982 | 30m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Far North Werewolf Area | |||||
5 | Silver Lining
Pad up the centre of the lovely clean slab left of Silver Bullet. FA: Noah, Mayank from Balwyn High School, Keith Lockwood & Paul Noah Mayank from Balwyn HS, 17 Sep 2015 | 35m | |||
8 | Silver Bullet
The huge slabby corner which is essentially the approach ramp for 'Solar City' and 'Werewolf'. FA: John Chapman, 1976 | 40m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Mitre Rock South Mitre | |||||
7 | ★ The Nude Balloon Dance
Not as good as first thought but not bad and shady for most of the day. Usually done in one pitch. Start below the right of two obvious weaknesses right of Acapulco Gold.
FA: Unknown, 2000 | 30m, 2 | |||
8 | Twinkle Twinkle
Takes prominent ramp on the wall left of Guiding Light. Essentially provides an easier finish to He Certainly Is. Start in the gully uphill from The Bishop’s Crook.
FA: Keith Lockwood & Ray Lassman, 24 Sep 2015 | 50m | |||
6 | ★★ Guiding Light
A quirky ramble that is very enjoyable. There was a serious accident on this climb a couple of years back, showing that a lapse of concentration can get you hurt anywhere. Start at the foot of the chimney-gully.
FA: Simon Mentz & James Falla, 1998 | 60m, 3 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Mitre Rock Deacon Area | |||||
7 | ★ The Deviant
Not a bad lead with enough gear in horizontal breaks (take cams) and interesting moves in between. FA: Unknown, 2000 | 10m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Mitre Rock North Mitre | |||||
6 R | ★ Cloaca
A good climb for beginners to follow as protection is limited. Start 2 metres left of V-corner of Pete Made Us Do It. FA: Greg Pritchard & Paul Hoskins, 1993 | 30m |