Routes in Australia for selected grade

Space filler.

Done Exodus and Cloaca and looking for another easy route? Below the Mason's Apron (left of Exodus) is a short pinnacle. This climbs the tallest part of the outside face.

An awesome climb if you're not a fan of exposure. 1) 23m (6) Start on exodus for 16m and then head up the sloping belay ledge on L. 2) 15m (2) Up the corner then traverse R then straight up.

Delightful. Start just right of a detached little pinnacle and just left of Edgell Gerber at a shallow corner.

Climb short crack 1 metre right of Exodus to ledge then the chimney-gully on the left side of the Salem wall.

Wide corner crack right of 'Myles'.

The right-facing corner to large blocks at the top.

Start: Start about 35 metres up the gully above 'Cuscus'.

The series of lines to the roof, step right and up.

Start: Start several metres left of "Pygmy Possum".

Up the obvious crack for a few metres, step left and follow the main, slightly recessed line on the left side of the wall.

Start: Start as for 'The Atlantic Wall'.

Start 3m left of the right-side of the slab, 4 metres right of 'First Noel' at a broken crack in a very small left facing corner.

Start 3m left of 'First Noel'.

Up the line to a left facing corner. Move left onto the slab and up avoiding the corner to finish up a crack/groove.

Start: A few metres left of Ode to 'Mistletoe' and about 4m right

of a large old conifer.

Up groove. At halfway ledge cross over gully and finish steeply up wide crack on left.

Start: Start at groove on left side of face about 12-13 metres left of pinnacle. Inital S (don\'t get on 'Sundowner' by mistake).

Rubbishy corner just left of chimney to ledge. Finish up face-crack.

The left-hand of two corners facing the valley.

Up the corner 7 metres right of 'E Pluribus Unum' and finish right.

North and approximately 45m directly uphill from the Mini 'Castle Crag' is this wall. This corner climb is situated about 12m right of the large cave. Marked by white square.

Best access to top as well as an easy down climb.

The right hand rib of the chimney.

Obvious chimney. Free hanging start, pull up into chimney. About halfway move out slightly right, up over protruding block. Move back on line to top.

Left 1.5m of 'Staying Grey'. Follow obvious jugs up diagonally left to narrow slot in face that leads to V-break.

Move left up ramp, 1m left of Y-Fronts, to crack and up.

2m left of 'Pension Days'. Up through shallow cracks and breaks.

Start on the white rock on the South East corner. Up to horizontal break, then follow this left 4m. Through tree to shallow corner above, move left to finish.

Obvious crack line at E./ left end of cliff. Left of scrubby descent gully

Crack/ corner right of scrubby descent gully, left of FH's. Start 1m. left of 2FH's. Bridge between crack & sidewall, exit through V brake at top of crack.

3m. right of K. the arête. use boulder to gain arête, move up this to jugs and over top. belay from top of K.

Optimistic. First corner right of Shiela G. Pull up into knobbly corner and work up on good holds. Pull up onto ledge and continue up bridging corner. Some holds are brittle.

First shallow corner right of S.G., Pull up into knobbly corner & work your way up on good holds. Pull up onto ledge & continue up bridging corner, some holds brittle.

The easy chimney right of 'Rosehill'.

You would have to be extremely desperate.

The scrubby second corner, R of Waiting.

Past 'Lost Daze' and the unclimbed arete, on the small wall at the end of the cliff. Follow the obvious line.

Beware of falling newspapers? A true cliff-splitter.The chimney that splits the tier R of the overhangs.

A face crack 5m L of the corner to a ledge below the overhang. Heavens knows what happens there.

Between Big Chimney Corner and Volksgrenadier is a well trodden expanse of easy rock. Up anywhere. FA Unknown

Traverse the diagonal crack/ledge. Start below Nuclear Error, follow crack up and right, step on to the small roof and continue along ledge to top. Bring lots of slings. Rapel off Alpha Decay.

Something of an easy classic. The major corner to the ledge and rap rings.

I can see them queuing for this. Cracks 9m R of 'Cesspool', 3m L of blocks.

A chasm. The chimney/gully between 'The Green Wall' and 'Taipan Wall'. Lots of scrambling and some roped climbing. The initial chimney often flows with water for long periods after rain.

The easiest way to the top of Taipan if you want to pre-place gear or take photos from rap. It is also a great beginners' route with (mostly) excellent rock, big features and good pro.

Start by squeezing up a chimney feature adjacent to the Peregrinator Boulder (3m L of the tricky starting crack of Mission Over Tokyo). Climb most of the first pitch of Mission Over Tokyo, eventually arriving at a DRBB. Step left across the void of the Gunigalg Gully chimney. Easily up the slabby left wall of this, into the boulder choked gully (DRBB). If you wish to reach the summit, scramble up the short right wall (poor protection).

The first line on the cliff.

Start: Start below and L of the line.

1. 33m (8) Climb to a ledge, move R and past the bush on the R. Follow the line to below the overhang.

2. 7m (8) Easily out L and up.

The crack, followed by a juggy wall.

Start: The L-most and widest of three cracks in the wall.

Up the crack on the arete.

Start: Start at the arete R of GitP.

Up the wide crack to halfway then up the juggy R arete to the top.

Start: Start at the wide crack just R of 666.

Apparently only 1m R of 'Jupiter', but 29m longer and 5 grades easier...

Start: Start 5m R of the R chimney.

Start: Start between the two chimneys.

1. 25m (8) Add a few grades the further you start to the right. Up jugs just L of crack to ledge.

2. 21m (8) Up to follow large crack.

Gross black chimney.

Start: The chimney just R of the 'Jug City' diagonal.

Start: Start from the ground, 13m L of 'Handles'.

1. 15m (5) Juggy gutter to large ledge.

2. 15m (5) The juggy face left of 'Silk Purse', move R towards the top.

Long and sustained at the grade. Amazingly neglected considering the hordes which swamp the much smaller 'Back Wall' only 20m away.

Start: Start 3-4m L of SiS beneath the deep black corner/crack up high.

2m R of Momentary etc. Up to the scoop, then up.

6m right of Brain Damage. Up the right side of the overhang then straight up.

About 25m right of Viewfinder is a prominent chimney line. Up.

Has some loose rock.

5m right of Drop Tail

4m right of Boots And All. There may be two ferns in a crack here. Up to small roof and over this.

3m right of Two Fern. Crack.

Makes a pleasant little climb. From below the overhang move right and continue to the top.

Climbs the slab to the base of the scrubby chimney 5m right of 'Attila'. Traverse left on the rotten juggy wall into the corner and finish as for pitch one of 'Attila'.

Start from base of Piracy's corner (i.e. a few metres right of the start to 'Clicke Crack'. By the way, why did this most obvious of obvious routes need to be chisel-initialled in the first place?!) Head up diagonally right to blunt arete. Follow this to top. Just a climb - care factor? Rap off boulders, or take the standard death route descent down the wall beside 'Piracy'.

Shocking pile of poo. The guidebook author walked past this three times before realizing it was actually a climb! Old school chimney for dwarfs.

Start: East facing wall 12m right of 'Sedition'. Don't get it mixed up with the boulder problems surrounding it.

Hardly worth recording. Possibly climbed by a touron in the dim dark past.

Start: Start at the right hand end of 'Red Wall' about 20m right of Vandles. 'Obvious' scoop in grey rock with huge jugs. Follow scoop to top.

The central buckety black streak. Take slings for bollards.

Start: Starts about 10m right of 'Bad Moon Rising' and 4m left of 'Headless Chickens'.

On the grey face near where the boulders form a cave. Go up the short obvious corner, then walk up the easy slab and onto the right hand edge of the face by which you gain the summit.

Start at the obvious cleft at the left end. Bridge up and follow the weakness through to the top.

Start as for Shadow Streak. Go left up the easy ramp and through the overhang to the top.

Val's First Lead. The obvious narrow chimney on the north facing wall of the cliff.

The corner line L of the prominent chimney.

The easy corner immediately R of the narrow chimney, moving L at the top for an easy exit.