Routes in Australia for selected grade

L crack on wall 2m R of SF. 6m corner above tree, traverse L along horizontal, finish up arete. A filthy waste of time.

Up face left of cave, follow chimney crack, up and under large balancing rock, round left and up to finish. Vertical cam crack on right above climb for belay.

Climb up the crack on the right-hand side to a ledge at 6m height, then go left and up the crack.

Climb the crack on the front of the outcrop.

The steep juggy line 1m left of Impudent.

The deep right hand line. Start from the lower tier.

The easy option. Along the top of the cliff between the Northern Cliff and the descent gully to the Main Cliff is an isolated block. Up to and up the easy chimney on the Northern face.

8m R of the Kofta chimney an easy angled crack leads to an interesting finish. A well protected easy route, good for leading practice. Descend to the L along the summit and down a gully behind Kofta.

Start 15m right of Wooden Soldiers, at the highest section of cliff. Straight up on great holds.

Simple and easiest line up middle wall.

An easy climb on good rock in a nice position. The arête forming the left hand end of Billy Goat Point. About 5m left of the split blocks.

Located on the arete at the bottom of the third terraced area/gully uphill and L of main cliff. Start at arete, up steep juggy section to small ledge. Traverse 2m R, then up to a ledge. Move into the gully/groove on the R and up.

Up LH crack opposite Jugular onto boulder, then up flakes on face to top

Start: Obvious large orange corner towards the RH end of the cliff.

1. 35m (8) The corner to a niche below the overhang. Move R around the bulge and R again to belay

2. 30m (8) Move R to a dead tree [possibly long gone] then L up small gully and straight up to finish through a short chimney/crack.

Start: Initalled chimney 4m R of HA.

1. 35m (8) Climb the narrow chimney passing in front of 2 chockstones to the top of the boulder choke.

2. 33m (8) Up chimney 6m to chockstone. Traverse 10m L along ledge, cross scrubby gully and climb short wall. Continue to second wall and up this to ledge.

3. 13m (8) Climb wall R of crack.

Corner 10 metres left of where track meets cliff. May be repeat of 'Big Feather'.

Start at large tree 3 metres left of descent gully.

Initialled corner 10m left of 'Circus'

Start 24m left of 'Tunc'. Initialled.

Probably the vegetated gully system right of 'Trilogy'

The large chimney cleft about 30m L of the RH end of the cliff. This whole area is fire affected and unstable looking

Originally desribed as an impressive corner chimney line. Sounds pretty awful.

Start: The SE 'Grampians' Guide says 300m L of Lactic Buildup and 20m L of a boulder choke at the foot of the cliff. The original description said 250 yards [230m] L of the descent gully. Look for a massive corner/chimney up high. Supposedly initialled.

1. 35m (7) Up very scrubby broken rock to the foot of the chimney

2. 17m (7) Chimney passing inside of chockston.

3. 15m (7) Up

Pitiful

Start: From end of terrace L of 'Stage Fright'

1. 36m (8) Broken line to tight chimney, up.

2. 9m (8) Chimney crack on R.

I have no idea where this route is. It was described as starting 5m R of TD. But nothing with this grade or description goes up there.

1. 18m (8) Crack, exit R at overhang. Up L past overhang.

2. 18m (8) Crack, R to ledge.

3. 11m (8) Chimney

Start: 2m R of 'The Milkshake'

1. 21m (5) Front of L corner of buttress.

2. 15m (5) Short wall, scramble to next face, climb R crack.

Start: 5m R of HS

1. 21m (8) Chimney

2. 15m (5) As for HS

Pox. Small corner, then step right to arête on first little buttress ‘where the cliff starts to build up again’.

Start: From the small tree 6m up the right arete.

1. -m (-) go left from the ledge, up 6m, back right and up corner through blocks.

2. 36m (-) Up past bush on right, traverse left on to side of arete, diagonally across steep slab and up to small pinnacle.

3. 42m (-) Walk off pinnacle and scramble up until above trees

4. 42m (-) Left into V-gully and traverse on to side of arete. Up face to sloping ledge.

5. 42m (-) Up

Front of buttress left of Pommy Granite.

Start: The large left facing corner crack immediately right of 'Death Threat'

Same starting point as 'Mookie' (12). Go up the slab to the left through bush until you're in a corner. Go up the crack with saplings on every ledge. Head to the top right. Abseil from same anchor as 'Mookie' (12).

Fun but short.

Start: About 15m west of "Mookie" is a 15m high pillar that's hard to miss. This route climbs the south (easiest) side. Appears to be a direct version of 'Moomba'.

1. 50m Rope-length up from toe of main slab to boulders.

2. 50m Traverse 4m right to nose. Slab to break in overlap. Diagonally left to shallowgroove at foot of corner.

3. 30m Up left below overlap to black block. Up through overlaps to big crack and stance.

4. 50m Slab to top of pinnacle. Scramble 30m along ridge to foot of next slab.

5. 46m Right arête to top of pinnacle. To notch behind.

6. 10m Slab. Descend by following ridge (roped at first) past summit. Follow ridge down to Gap.

Climbs slab left of main slab of the Last Unicorn, then crosses gully between and joins The Last Unicorn.

1. 45m Slab to overlap, up beside it, then step right over it. Up to second overlap on right. Over it.

2. 47m (3; no pro) Step left and climb slab to bushes and huge blocks.

3. 26m Veer right to over-lap. Up on to block. Shift belay right across gully.

4. 40m (crux) From horizontal break, go up right over slabs and overlaps to join The Last Unicorn atop pitch three.

The obvious leaning crack to the right of the small caves when you first reach 'The Cheesecake'. Easy but definitely a few grades harder than 8. An alternate finish involves heading right and up the slab at the third cave, thereby avoiding the bushes.

Up grey wall around corner from Highly Evolved.

Grey slab 100 metres right of "Slippery When Wet"

Easy angled black hand crack corner 50m left of 'Gibber'. Second pitch climbs juggy face above. Not recommended.

Start: Start below the right of three large chimney-cracks angling sharply to the left.

1. 34m (7) Start on massive jugs and continue up and left into the line. Belay out on the left wall when the crack bends sharpest to the left.

2. 45m (7) Climb the left wall to the top.

Worthless. Start off big block against cliff.

Traverse L just below the cave to the corner at the L end of the cave to belay. Traverse easily to the R to abseil as for 'Cannes'.

Start: To the L of 'Cannes' is a short wall capped by a cavernous roof, with a distinctive flaring chimney at its R-hand end. The 'Cannes' rappel is directly above this. Start at the boulder somewhere near the centre of this wall where a vague line leads up and L toward the cave above.

The R crack and corner behind.

???? Needs checking

Start: Start as for "Warwick's Wafflecone"

Middle of slab round right of Puppy Love.

Right end of wall right of High In The Saddle, just left of arete.

Face 2 metres right of 'Timor'

They don’t get better than this. The easiest way to the top. Single RB lower-off.

A great climb up a huge corner leads to a fragile finish.

Start: Start below the huge corner marking the right side of an impressive blank wall.

1. 50m (7) Climb the huge corner until the rope runs out.

2. 40m (-) Continue up the line until it runs out and finish up the juggy wall.

Easy climbing on good rock in the depths of a massive formation.

Start: Start 50 metres right of 'Bastion' where two huge, juggy walls join to form a wide open-book formation. Scramble up to the line.

1. 45m (6) Move into the deep, hidden chimney and bridge up. Move right at 45 metres to a stance.

2. 45m (6) Up the line above the stance. Traverse left at 23 metres to another line that leads to a large ledge.

3. 10m (6) On up the line.

Left the first ascentists speechless. The left hand line.

1. 40m (7) Climb mossy rock to ledge.

2. 40m (7) The gutter above is clean and has the biggest jugs that you will ever see.

The better of the easy routes.

Climb the right hand line with a choice of belay spots.

The crack right of the right-hand arete of the outcrop.

Path of least resistance left of "Not Raving But Climbing" and right of the arete right of "Wimp's Picnic".

Reported as dangerously loose by the FA party.

Start: Start below a large roof which is a prominent feature of the crag (VRG)

1. 35m (5) Up the line to a perched boulder. Back off a little and go up the right-hand crack to a large ledge on the right.

2. 35m (5) Climb up to the roof. Back off a little and traverse right instead and finish up the wall right of the roof on awesome jugs.

Easy scamble up right arete of Exploration Wall to Anchors

Quick way to the top if you have a trad rack!

Juggy wall just left of the creek.

Start at shallow corner by creek and climb just left of the arete. At the big ledge move left and continue to the top.

Start: Start on the left wall of the big central chimney.

1. 50m (8) Up the corner for a rope-length.

2. 50m (8) Go left to the front of the buttress and up for another 50 metres.

3. 30m (8) Climb the right arete to a big ledge.

4. 30m (8) A chimney on the left leads through the overhang then up a smooth slab to more jugs.

A rather irrelevant climb taking the centre of the smoothest part of the slab just right of the big corner. The bulges are avoided by diverging into the corner at those points.

Doddle city up the slab left of the big corner.

Climb the slab just left of "Cricklewood Rainbow" pitch 2 to the bulge. Step right and climb the wall 2 metres left of a crack and continue up a corner. Finish up a thin crack on the right wall.

On the front of the block, around left from "Pickpocket" is a bottomless chimney. Finsih up a slabby arete.

Arete and wall 3 metres left of "Urchin" and crawl through a slot. Now slab on left.

An easy crack at the right-hand end of the cliff.

Just a way of getting above 'Red Wall'

Start: far left side of the wall

From the blocks on the left side of the wall, climb the arete easily.