Routes in Australia for selected grade

Goes up the middle of two rocks to prop against and onto the top of the boulder.

Start at the foot of the next buttress (the 2nd last buttress and the first without an overhanging start) Take an axe and a compass.

1. 46m Up the buttress to a ledge.

2. 46m Up the buttress to a tree.

3. 14m Up to the top of the pinnacle. Not No obvious abseil points.

A traverse / girdle from the lower slabs of Sugarloaf, across flypaper wall, main wall and eventually finishing at the very top of Sugarloaf itself. Most of the climbing is easy grade 2-6 traversing, with the sections from baghdad to black streak being slightly harder grade 8-10. There are many variations and belay oppertunities but would be best simul climbed.

From the lowest slabs, or you can even start from the 'Left Route' and climb up and over some blocks, start traversing 5-10m above the ground until onto the main face. From here trend a bit higher and try hit the bolt on baghdad. From here follow some seems and breaks over Cherry flake and black streak. Follow your nose and you will likely find yourself just above the black streak DBB. After this there is a bit of jungle bashing before a very nice clean streak of rock to the top.

Likely done before but recording here for budding adventure climbers. Probably worth 1.5 stars due to novelty and length in a nice position.

Starts in front of boulder to the right of where the track meets the main face below the point of two ramps. 1. (35m) Straight up till you reach the flake. Follow left till you reach the diagonal ledge. You should be able to see the FH identifying the Baghdad belay further up to your right. 2. (45m) Continue up and Right till you see a L facing flake. Stay to the right of this all the way to the top.

6m R of boulder against cliff (forming step). 1. 16m (8) Up and left passing BR to get to big flake. Follow flake to DRB and lower off or continue the next pitches. 2. 26m (11) Up and L to follow flakes to stance. 3. 24m (6) Straight up to the top.

At second pitch traverse 7m L. Then go up and left making sure to stay R of a small overhang. Over overhang go up and R to rejoin main line.

Start as for Cherrys Flake and go straight up to DBB, don't deviate.

Shared start with Cherrys Flake. 1. 25m (5) Up to spike, then step R to gain small ramp which is followed L and up past BR to a DRB belay. 2. 35m (4) All the way up.

1. 22m (6) Start below the chimney, up to it till a good ledge.

2. 28m (8) Follow to top of crack

3. 20m (5) And up to top of cliff

Wanders up and left from the start of Elixer to a ledge and first belay. Then on up and right towards Webb's crack and the second belay. Finish up this route.

A short distance down the access ramp, a tree grows out of a horizontal crack below a couple of mossy lines (they were clean in 1980) Up the cracked wall L of the tree to below the L hand line. There are no anchors and the stances are poor. The hardest bit is the start.

A suus name for a suss climb lol. Starts about 15m R of DV on the R hand side of a tree. Follow the line of jugs. Descent is down the ramp above GAB.

All routes on Foggy Bottom are described from left to right

2m Right of Bush Bash which is the first easy crack after the broken section.Climb widish crack through bulge.

next wide crackwith nice moves through first steepness

Crack 1m right of Rainbow

Crack 2m right of Next Gen. step Right at horizontal and up next crack.

Easy crack 4m right of Beater Blockers

The first climb in the area. The curving chimney on the top pinnacle.

Finding this place was pretty tricky and in true Cathedral Range style involves going the wrong way and a fair amount of bush bashing. I cant believe I went to so much trouble to climb a 17m rating 6! It was all for my 8 year old son who loved it. FYI the mushroom rock itself looks pretty dangerous

Start as per LBFF to first bolt then follow the lovely dyke left to two more bolts.

At top of Greenpeace gully is an obvious short hand crack flake. Climb it, it’s fun.

If you follow the main boulders anti clockwise you will find this nice looking diagonal hand crack. Taking a stab at the grade... which appears to have been lost in the mists of time for now.

Diagonally L to R up West face.

Vague crack on L side of slab

The corner crack down hill and R from alcove (around L from Nothing Flash. Huge Gear. Finish up Times Up to chains.

L edge of face. No Pro

Weakness going diagonally left R of Groundswell.

Straight up after starting as for WH

Start R of Seaspray. Up Slab

Up groove R of Seaspray.

New route R

2m R of Primordial. Easy scramble

The deep chimney opposite DFD. Squeeze exit.

Approx 10 m L of Lay it on the Lip Line and R of and above Tensor. The short, thin slab.

Climb pockets, then R to right leading crack.

There is a block a few meters L of SS. Off this then up on jugs. Solo FA.

As for CU Jimmy, but bridge.

Up the corner crack on a N-S running face approx 40 m N of Baal Rock

Slab on E face up little quartz jugs. Solo FA

NE Arete. Solo FA

Layback corner on R of north facing wall.

On W face, the small crack.

Middle of slab R of Mary

Crack, R, the bulge 5m R of AG

Mossy slab to R of WAIDH?

R leading crack 4m R of SADD that is easily located by the single swollen nut.

2m R of FAF. Up crack through slab then hand crack

Up large crack at L end of slab, then wall to top

to ledge, traverse 1.5m L then crack.

As for LHV but traverse R to crack before ascending.

2m R of L to a high piece of pro.

Jam crack on L end of face to break then over to top

L of crack, up and over flake

Chimney that splits a wall below and L of a large boulder know as Butterfly Rock for obvious reasons

Straight up from low point of slab, past crack and up steeper section. No Pro.

20 East and above Traveller's Wall, and Sth and uphill from Butterfly Rock find a corner crack below a large tree. Great protection

Large crack 3m R of Proless

Up crack and slab on R arete of rocks 15 m Sth of Double Boots

Up L side of face.

R side of face

At far right of lowest tier climb to small cave. Exit left and follow seam to large ledge. Carefully navigate the chose pile at the back of the ledge to top out.

SDS - head left and up once at the long crimp rail.

SDS - direct up the face. Don't stray from the centre.

SDS - head right and up using the right arete.

Stand-start and layback crack into crimps. Finish as per Central Intelligence.

In the same area as Party Pillar. Stand-start with left-hand on undercling and right-hand on crimp. Traverse right, step up high and top out direct.

Self to shelf.

Pics or it didn't happen. Looks scary, climbs safe as houses.

The first in the trilogy. FA'd by children, for children.