Routes in Australia for selected grade

Crack right of One's a Crowd

Up and left onto the dished wall and sea of moss.

Start in Chimney left of Grey Arete, continue up chimney, to a slabby finish. Don't mind the moss, that rains down on you with any slight breeze. Claimed to have been climbed in 2018 probably more like 1960s when that kinda climbing was all the rages.

Pitch lengths are definitely inflated

Start: Up chimney just right of 'Sox Glo' and 'Poxbow'

1. 33m (6) The chimney is climbed all the way to the ledge.

2. 25m (6) The steep little 6m wall on the L to a large ledge. Move L and continue up the clean arete/rib to a small airy belay stance.

3. 32m (6) Traverse L (tending slightly down) past the chimney and around the exposed arete. Step across the chimney and continue to a roomy ledge and cave.

4. 20m (6) Crux pitch! Wander up through the easy cave/chimney to exit conveniently in the descent gully behind the Omega Block. Note the original 30m last pitch, reversed the last 4m of the traverse and climbed up the juggy groove to the top. This is very mossy and doesnt add much to the route.

Okay climb with a little bit of caving. 1) 21m (8) Climb Dummy bidder all the way to the top and then belay. 2) 18m (7) Head right at the top of Dummy bidder and make your way around large boulder. Belay behind the boulder. 3) 8m (8) Here is the fun part head up tricky wall and through the small tunnel. Belay after tunnel. 4) 12m (3) head up the wall and belay at Black Magic area and then walk off.

Poorly pro down low. Shallow open corner 3m R of oxbow. Up corner to step R onto arête at where cracks converge. Up to just below blocky overhang. Step right onto juggy arête and up to the top

Good first lead, well pro on good rock. Juggy rib 5m R of oxbow. Just left of narrow gully/crack. Follow rib just just under overhang. Join onto dummy bidder to finish stepping R

Rarely done but looks ok.

Start: Start 5m L of WR.

Starts 2m R of Drain Pipe. Climb the wide crack (on its R side) to the little overhang. Pull thru on the jugs (not protected) or toddle up R to good cams before stepping L onto juggy wall(long sling runners).

2m R drainpipes. Climb wide crack on its R side, pull through overhang and zoom to top

Stand start at near the decent tree, and traverse the entire boulder. About the same grade regardless of height above the ground.

Beautiful, easy face.

Stand start and climb the short face into the runnel.

Stand start with good holds, climb the wide arete.

Stand start with good edges, climb the face.

Stand start below the so-called crack-like thingy.

Around the right side of the boulder facing uphill.

Easy stand start. SDS goes at about V3.

The rib right of Hellas and left of the cracks on the front of the tower.

The left crack on the front of the tower.

The diagonal left grassy chimney.

As for Pynx, the mossy middle chimney.

The obvious crack/trench 5m right of Styx

Up the ramp to Excuse Me While I Touch The Sky, up it for a couple of moves, traverse right and finish up the corner.

1. 30m. A groove on the wall facing the road, to the ledge. Left on ledges to a crack. Up this, then easily to below a ridge.

2. 40m. Go halfway up ridge, step right to finish up the crack.

Crack 2m right of Notes On Pillows.

1. 40m Easily up wall to below the blocky ridge.

2. 40m Ridge and crack above

The left (OR RIGHT?) facing corner/chimney at the top of the gully. Initialled.

Start 2m left of Narcissus and climb the bulging arete and slabby wall above straight up.

Three metres right of Athena. Initialled. Up the bulging juggy wall, a good route, almost worth a star.

Starts 2m right of Prometheus Direct at the chimney/groove. Up the groove until you can traverse left to the flake and over it.

Is this the worst route you’ve ever seen? Starts 4m right of Prometheus. Up to the slab, traverse right up the crack. Left at the steepening and go to the top of the chimney crack.

As for Keres. Climb the groove and arête.

Starts 3m right of Keres. Initialled.

1. 14m The easy slab. Now has 2 bolt brackets and a ring lower off at the ledge. (Take a 2cm nut to place 2m up and right past the 2nd bolt, if you dont like the run out)

2. 70m Move the belay 60m right (is this a rock climb or a bushwalk?) to below a short groove and then climb it.

Quite good and reasonably protected. Bridge the groove to the narrowing at 7m. Step left and climb the left arête to the top.

About 2m right of Hydra. 1. 25m The left side of the slab to a ledge. 2. 8m Step across and climb the crack behind. Diagonally over the boulders to below a shattered groove. 3. 22m The groove.

Five metres right of Salon.

1. 30m From initial climbt he right side of the slab.

2. 18m The arête behind. Step across the chimney.

3. 15m The wall on the left then crack, easy

( There is a buttress below the Amphitheatre with the next 4 climbs )

On the left side of the buttress below and right of Cella. Up and over the prominent flake.

Four metres right and uphill from Demeter.

1. From initial 'H2', Climb rib forming left side of cave.

2. ?m Wall.

Nice and simple, straight up the face. Really nice holds and not that long/high.

Up the corner of the same boulder as Triangulation and Side on, but on the edge of the boulder between the two. One again nice holds and not to long/high.

To the right of Triangulation, so once again nice holds and not too long/high. Only real hiccup is that there is a bush at the bottom of the climb making it more difficult to access.

Nice and simple, straight up the face. Really nice holds and not that long/high.

Up the corner of the same boulder, but on the edge of the boulder between the two. One again nice holds and not to long/high.

To the right, so once again nice holds and not too long/high. Only real hiccup is that there is a bush at the bottom of the climb making it more difficult to access.

Start by smearing feet on the bottom side of the rock. Start hold is one hands width above the intersection between the unpainted and painted part of the Boulder. Wrap hands behind the Boulder just above where the beginning of the white paint starts, double handed dyno to the top.

SDS with two hands on jugs - finish to the right.

SDS on same holds as "Frog in the Fog". Head to the top and traverse left around the arete. Head up once you are established on the good jug foothold on the left.

Perfect for the kids, climb up the dirty crack using the flake and ledge.

Climb the Right arete from the good undercling.

Pitch 1: From a sit start Climb the Right arete of the boulder to large ledge. Pitch 2: Continue up and over capstone to good belay.

Sit start and climb the arete using slopers and good edges.

Aptly named after the long red ant which waged war upon my sandals. Stand start and ascend left side of slab.

Ascend right side of slab - up and over. Don't escape right.

Stand-start.

Sit start layback on and then up the questionable flake

The cool gritty flake on the left face. Actually has a move or two.

Stand start with crimp and ‘wart’ on lip facing the monster. Mantle.

Climb the north-facing slab at the end of the corridor (1.5m to the right of the off width, directly opposite problem 3).

Climb the north-facing slab 5m right of the off width (directly opposite problem 4).

Just south of the summit. Climb the highball crack from a stand start.

The chimney just left of The Kite Runner

On the back of the Kite Runner boulder, 5m south of Flat Crack, climb the short, uphill face. Sit start.

On the boulder facing 'Men who stare at Levi's arse'

Sit-start at the bottom of the the crack, move left to turd shaped hold then up.

Thinking some of the VBs in the area are a bit ridiculous? Give this one a crack.

Sit-start at the bottom of the crack, move right to good rail and up.

Climb the right line on the slab, stand starting at the slight bulge right of Black-shouldered Kite.

Climb the slab just to the right of Directly. Stand start.

Basic climb. You can do it in sneakers.

Easy open corner serves as the easiest way to the top, as well as a possible downclimb.

Easiest way down can also be climbed upward.

Traverse Right to Left from a sit start. Climb around arete to easy slab and top out.

As you walk into the Courtyard, there is a slab on the right which leads to a narrow chimney. Inside the chimney there is an obvious curving flake. Up this to the top.

Stand start. Up easily on the right.

Low angled slab. Stand start and move right.

Low angled slab. Stand start and move to the left.

Head up easy handcrack to OW finish to the left

The middle crack splitting the blocks

Good lead

1. 48m Start up Junglescope

2. 30m Up the R side of the buttress, belay above a scrubby ledge.

3. 30m Up, keeping L of the gully. Traverse 15m towards the arete and pass over a small overhang.

4. 30m Head upwards.

"Poorly protected, and a waste of time." From 1988 Eastern District Guide and I doubt it has improved with time. Start at the RH edge of Central Buttress.

1. 34m Up to the old bolt on Mein Kampf.

2. 9m Up to a small stance and piton below the overhang.

3. 34m Surmount the overhang then diagonally left into the crack. Up, then left into gully.

4. 27m Grovel up.

5. Continue grovelling.

Goes from the bottom of the left side, up and around avoiding the steepest/hardest bit of the face.