Ascents in Geisterschmiedwand having Beta

Traumroute

die ersten 3 Exen habe ich mich ziemlich stark über die nassen Stellen gezogen. Ich weiß nicht, ob ich das trocken klettern könnte. Aber super schön. Über der 4ten Exe dann höchstens 8 und drüber 8- aber sau schön

Super schöne Züge, eher dynamisch und weit aber nicht zu schwer. Der Einstieg war super nass, da habe ich mich an der Exe hochgezogen. An der 5ten Exe mit links an die link auffällige Leiste ziehen und dann weit hoch verlänger an das was so aussieht wie ein seitgriff. Der ist überraschend gut. An der vorletzten Exe dann weit rechts halten da sind gute Seitgriffe .

I skipped most of the lower (harder) part because this part of the wall was in the shade and my fingers were quite cold. Quite a few holds were also wet. The upper part, however, was in the sun and completely dry, and very nice to climb (but a bit easier, maybe 7a or 6c).

One of the few routes which were dry enough to climb today, but some holds were still wet. Slipped off a wet hold with no feeling in the cold fingers in the lower part. However, the upper part is really not so easy to read and I had almost completely forgotten what I did last time, so I'm not sure if I could have climbed it first try today.

So cool to finally send this one, such a legendary route (FA in 1996 by Stefan Fürst) Last year one hold in the crux would just never dry up but this season it was finally all dry and I was able to do it in my 2nd try (this year).

If we did indeed the first pitch of Brigitte, then it's not worth only doing the first pitch. There was about one hard crux move and the rock also wasn't solid everywhere.

Again amazing rock and amazing limestone-atypical diagonal cracks in the upper part. Felt very hard though.

Amazing rock quality throughout the route. Difficult in the first half, the second half is really fun, maybe 7a, on diagonal cracks with mostly good holds. The hard part starts (for me) with a high right foot and a left foot far out to the left to reach a sloping sidepull with the left which is okay when you put your thumb on top. After putting up the right foot, you can put the right middle finger into a mono which is quite deep. You then reach to a sidepull/undercling which you can pinch with the left, put the right foot up and the left on the sloper where your left hand was before. Then comes a reachy move to a good edge above the bulge. After matching and some feet shuffling you cross over on the good hold in order to put the right hand as far left as possible. Left hand up to crimp, right heelhook to hand, bump left foot and shift your weight over the heelhook to reach a crimp with the right. The traverse to the right further up was easiest for me with a toehook on the left.

Two harder moves at third quick draw.

Has long bouldery moves, but very nice line!

Beta for reference: At the third QuickDraw go left and traverse right under the roof. At the forth QuickDraw first put left foot and very big jug foothold before going to the left hold. Above that go with right into medium good hold, then turn in a bit and reach high up with left hand to good hold above

Nice warm up route.

Had to take one break in the upper part after the roof which is not so easy to read. Really nice route on very good rock (except for the flake in the middle, which does still have some loose pieces).

#2ndgo

1e lengte on sight, 2e lengte niet geprobeerd

Traumhafte Kletterei und das Beste kommt am Schluss =D

Super Kletterei aber genau so schwer wie die links daneben!

Von den linken Touren die schönste Linie.

Polished, very very nice though! 3rd go

Tried it one day last year with horrific conditions. Today definitely felt different. Happy with this send. First day on the rope in a while. One more historic Geri testpiece off the list!

2nd ascent after 23 year, FA Stefan Furst in 1996. It took Adam over 10 years and roughly 10 days. 1st day this year. Stefan gave it 9a, possibly something have broken, but very possibly it has not got much harder due to breaks. Adam believes it is more 9a+ now, even though the crux is very hard to grade. The difficulty is not to be underestimated as the first 8c section is suprisingly tiring and makes the crux so much harder.

#2go

#2go

Ausgebouldert, nice

nur bis zur Krabbelstube...

classic

this is a perfect route!

Schöne Tour. Muss bei gelegenheit die 2. Seillänge anschauen

1.+ 2. SL together

1.+ 2.SL