Ascents in Sparchen having Beta

Climbed it for warm-up today. This time a proper redpoint with putting in all the quickdraws. At the anchor, I was extremely pumped and had to wait two minutes for my arms to relax.

The conditions were much better than expected - in fact, maybe the best conditions we've had in Sparchen. Despite the rain on the previous days, most of the routes were dry, humidity wasn't too high and the temperature was perfect for climbing. I could hold the small polished crimps better than last time and climbed the crux from the ground on my third try. I had underestimated the upper part a bit and was extremely pumped by the time I reached the anchor, but I did not fall, luckily.

Finally sent it.

Very nice route on small crimps, apart from the section from the third to fourth bolt not even that hard. I onsighted the part up to the third bolt immediately below the crux, could not climb the crux, and then climbed the upper part with one rest. On my second try, it was hotter, my skin was thinner and I just slipped off the holds, so I decided to stop trying. The first bolt is very high, though. The climbing was also not so hard, but it definitely felt a bit uncomfortable.

Should have climbed it while putting up the quickdraws (2 were already in place). All moves up to the last one were very solid, but then I hesitated a bit too much as I wasn't sure where exactly the good part of the edge was, so I fell again at the last move. In my second attempt, my fingers became colder and colder and I could barely hold the good sideclings in the upper part anymore. I fell again at the last move, but this time there was no chance at all of sticking it.

First hard move is already at the first bolt when you only have very few footholds, and the available footholds are very polished. I couldn't do the move to the good sidecling on the right. It's easier afterwards up to the third bolt. The crux is probably from third to fourth bolt, where the good footholds are too low to be useful and where the handholds are not so good either. I also skipped the move to the good hold at the fourth draw which is quite far up to the left. From then one, it gets easier, even though I skipped another move to the fifth bolt. From fifth bolt to the top, the holds are larger and more incut.

Zu kalt heute. Aber zumindest trocken trotz Schmelzwasser.

Did all the moves, but I have to spend a little more time on the beta before being able to send this. Crux section for three draws with open holds in an overhanging wall.

Even this part of the wall can get wet, after all. Did the moves up to to the third draw, the route was wet starting from just before the fourth draw. Since the part from the third to the fourth draw also seems to be quite hard, judging from how others climbed it, I decided to stop trying there.

Very nice warm up

Feels a little harder than Die Schlinge because of very polished footholds. But very nice!! After fourth quickdraw stay right the small looking undercling is very good for left. At the top traverse right with the feet and bump up with right hand very far right where it looks like there might be a ledge (there is one but you cannot really see it from below)

Remember after third quickdraw to put left foot a tiny bit under right foot. Then side pull on the right. Before jug on the right take crimp on the left. Then right hand to good crimp. Left hand to side pull. Foot up high left the highest possible. Then go dynamically to jug.

Too weak today and too scared to clip the fourth quick draw 🌶️

Felt harder than Drunk as a Skunk today with all the polished footholds. One try to remember the moves and then two tries falling at the last move with two different betas.

One try to remember the moves, sent it second try. Did not feel very hard today.

Accidently climbed to the anchor, wanted to do Möwe Jonathan

little bit scary exit

Very strange climbing, not enjoyable at all! The crux is some kind of strange mantle, which I couldn't figure out! Also, climbing this route in the sun is not recommended. It has become quite polished.

Wanted to climb it, but it was getting too dark. Apparently not as amazing as the guide book would have you believe. Chossy in parts. The whole sector would benefit from more people climbing.

It is very weird, the move above the sling we could not do. It was also sunny and we definitely could not use slopers very well. But I don't think it is 7+ and I it is the worst warm up ever.

Nice warm up route

New beta: take the right lower foothold then go to sidepull which is below the chalked one (and it has a hole on the left to use as a pinch. Then left foot to the top foothold right foot very far right (to the upper good foothold. Then go up to the good ledge (all the way up. Then traverse to the right to restposition on good feet and crimp. Rest a long long time. Then left hand to Gaston, right hand to Gaston. Left foot far left. Right foot up. Go to finger hole. Right foot up, left foot left. Take intermediate on the right left foot higher. Then right hand all the way up into double finger hole (the upper right part). Left hand matches into gold hole. Clip. Right foot right but stay down. Right hand to the good sidepull on the right. Left foot to turn in to the right (left side at the wall). Then left hand takes intermediate and crimp on the left. Clip (QuickDraw has to be a bit longer). Right hand into jug sidepull. Left foot high up to turn in to the right again. Left hand to hold in the middle, right foot far to the right. Right hand to hold on the right (not super good). Left foot up to the inner foothold right foot very high up. A bit dynamic to top jug.

Was definitely too hard for a flash as first route of the day, then tried it again at the end of the day, but didn't have enough power left.

One try for putting in the quickdraws and figuring out the top. Should have sent it during my first redpoint go, but I fell in the very last move of the route, to the jug next to the anchor. Had skipped the last two quickdraws, so I probably took the biggest whipper I've taken so far (10+ meters), but the route is so overhanging in the lower part that I just fell into air and didn't even touch the wall. Couldn't climb the first crux in my last try.

Beta for the top part: after resting, stay low and take a pinch with the left, put left foot up and out to the left on good hold, right hand gaston, right foot up and far to the right, left hand undercling, right hand to crimp, clip. Then move up and left and don't forget the one place where the otherwise bad ledge to the left is actually good. Right hand up in sidepull crimp, left hand just next to it on large sloping hold. Either clip or skip last two quickdraws. Left drop knee and left hand up to pinch, right hand intermediate, right foot up, turn right hip inwards, bump right hand to better hold. Left hand not to bad pinch on edge but further to the left into small pocket (would have sent with this beta most probably, but only realized that it was easier afterwards), again right foot up and hip inwards, right hand to pinch, feet up and left hand into jug above pinch.

Dont know why I didn't climb it second go, third go felt really desperate, but somehow worked out. Probably the best of the routes I have climbed in this sector yet! Older guidebooks rate this at 9+/7c+, but 9/7c feels more appropriate.

I thought I was going to send it 2nd try, took 6 tries instead.

Beta: 1st crux: take good sidecling as a gaston to reach up to good flake, match flake on top, right drop knee, take lower right end of the next hold, left heelhook and with left hand into crimp. 2nd crux: left hand good pocket, right hand undercling, left hand sloper, shuffle feet and reach up right to relatively good incut crimp. Cut feet, right foot far up right, left foot hanging, match hold, dynamically up to good pocket with left (then still some not so easy moves to good hole on left). Definitely check out the last vertical part again - it's not so easy.

Nice but very polished

Good warum for next time. Fell on the very last hard move. Don't forget the small foothold that is very central but high for right foot. After using the very far right black foothold.

Very nice route, would be a great first 9- to sent. Pre clip the first bolt because it is a bit scary. Then go right to clip the first bolt. Then down again to rest. Afterwards go left. Left foot to the big slopy hole that is super black. Right foot higher up Right hand to the very end of the vertical ledge then left foot higher up on the left face. And left hand into very good crimpy side pull. With right to little crimp. Left bump into undercling and then go to the jug on the left. Rest. Switch left foot so that it is on the very right of the foothold. Go with left hand into undercling. Then with right into jug (it is more juggy on the right. Right foot onto small foothold on the very right. Left hand matches, clip. Switch feet . Left foot onto good foothold above. Right hand to the very right into the side/slightly underclingy knubby thing. Right foot up and left hand into crumbly ledge. Right hand to good handhold with tickmark. Short rest is possible here. Left foot high up. Turn in. Left hand to big Gaston (shoulder move). Right foot to crazy good big ledge on the right. Left hand matches to Gaston. Left foot to little black knob on the left. Right foot more right onto black little foothold same height roughly as good ledge. Left hand into finger pocket. Right foot high up onto good crumbly ledge handhold from before. Right hand into finger hole further up (thumb goes into the other fingerhole. Match with left into adjacent fingerhole. Turn in so that right side faces the wall. Clip, then right foot to the right, left foot slightly up and right hand bumps into good sidepinch/hold. Left hand goes into next slot above it. Left foot high up. Right foot up and right hand into good side pull. Left hand matches. Right hand into even better side pull above. Left foot high up (turn in so that left outer side faces the wall. Go up with left, left foot needs to go slightly higher on small foothold. Right hand to next chalked handhold which is right next to the lady handhold. Right foot up and more right. Dynamic move to jug. Match and the route is actually over.

Nice warm up for the head. But the muscles were not too warm afterwards.

Key beta -- Use the upper foothold at the crux, not the lower!

Cool crux with a crag that I couldnt quite jam in a useful way.

Gehört zu den schlechtesten Routen OF ALL TIME, so wie 'Ende der Gemütlichkeit' an der Zeller.

Tried the supposed crux pitch again from a few meters below the hardest part, and it didn't feel very hard. It's possible to use a knee bar in the hardest section to reach a jug

Really nice multi pitch, overhanging throughout starting from the second pitch, so you have a very good view of the wall and the climbers below you.

Pitch 1: a little tricky on the last few meters to the anchor, otherwise easy

Pitch 2: easy (climbed barefoot)

Pitch 3: the first crack was hard for me, fell once and then took some time to figure it out (which caused me to lose some confidence for the following pitches)

Pitch 4: dihedral with not so good holds and feet, but doable in the end

Pitch 5: felt a lot easier than the previous two pitches I struggled with, overhanging on mostly good holds

Will be back to climb the full route.

Amazing route! Had to skip the last two quick draws to make the third crux work.

Sehr schöne Route. Leider nass im Überhang.

Boom. My first 6c after two years of work.

Nearly got it, fell in the crux just before the final handhold

Working on top rope