Showing all 13 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Cachi | |||||
5.12a | ★★ Khadijah
To the left of the middle of the wall you will find Khadijah which hosts a technical start, pumping the ill-prepared early. Climb through the small ledges to the crux and make the undercling dependent move in the middle of the steepest section, grabbing the good ledges to follow. Another option is to pinch up the left side and by applying compression strength, although this path would most likely not be 5.12a. With the crux complete, use the randomly placed good holds to rest and reserve your energy in order to make it to the anchors. The climb will drift left and, at one point, almost overlap ‘No Soy Chino’, however do not become confused. Climb around the anchors of ‘No Soy Chino’ into the lighter coloured rock to find the jugs you have been dreaming of and the end of the route. | 18m, 9 | |||
5.12a | ★★ Buen Ray
Much like ‘Adios Hermanos’, Buen Ray hosts its crux move close to the ground, and therefore clipping the first bolt prior to take-off is highly recommended in the name of safety. Post crux, expect ladderish yet fun climbing on the crimps, slopers, and pinches that are characteristic of climbing at Cachi. The route eases at the top with larger holds and widely available resting positions. | 20m, 7 | |||
5.12a | ★★★ Fuera Sabido
A tall and proud line going almost to the top of the wall. | 32m, 10 | |||
YDS_ALT:5.12 | Deception
| 10m, 6 | |||
Rio Oro Main Wall | |||||
5.12a | ★ No Name
The left most route has no name but many people call it La Comadreja Enchilada and at the time of writing the only route with seemingly bombproof protection, is also the hardest at Rio Oro. Start to the left of the thin crack with a good three finger pocket and a home made first bolt. Make finger strength and clean footwork dependant moves up and to the right to the commercial bolt for a feeling of security, and clip while pinching with the left. With a slight overhang, from here work your way through the crux, using the thin crack for a couple of moves before climbing back towards the left and finishing on a high step with great pockets before the anchors. As with most routes on the wall, dirt and overgrowth can be a problem, especially near the rounded top of the climb. | 8m, 6 | |||
5.12a | La Virgen
Directly to the right of 'David Ulloa' and just to the right of the thin crack is the delicate and resolute La Virgen. Climb up the crack using the odd face hold clipping the homemade bolts along the way. Past the third and final bolt climb up and to the left using large pockets and slopers until you reach the same anchors as 'David Ulloa'. This route has yet to see a successful headpoint. | 8m, 5 | |||
Pico Blanco | |||||
5.12a | El Pipiribao
This climb follows a technical crack to a big ledge. On the ledge let your arms take a well-deserved rest before finishing on fun entertaining jugs. If you don’t rest well enough on the ledge, the jugs may make you more pumped that you anticipate. At the top of the route don’t forget to turn around and take in the breath taking views of San José and the surrounding valley. FA: David Ulloa | 30m, 18 | |||
Forum East Wall | |||||
5.12a | ★★ La Raimunda
A Forum favorite with many climbers, La Raimunda is named after Ry Morrison, who besides being one of the first Costa Rican climbers to explore Forum, also bolted and supplied the bolts for the route. The climb is half balancing act, half pocketish-crimp fest worth the early rise or patient wait to beat out the intensely hot midday sun. Due to its position on the wall La Raimunda receives sun as early as 10:30am, which continues until about 2:30pm. As for the climbing, expect easy juggy moves until the ledge: this is where the climb really starts. After the ledge, an enjoyable no hands rest, a mix of laybacks, crimps, and a wild right handed catch to a pocket, you will work your way to the crux. If your fingers are feeling strong, then breeze through the crux to the larger holds just before the super shut anchors. If your fingers have gone on strike, don’t worry the falls are all clean. | 18m, 8 | |||
5.12a | Extractor
Easy jug haulin’ until the face where it’s down to business. Getting over the lip or trying not to pump out, choose your crux. | 18m, 10 | |||
5.12a | Al-Qaeda
Start on the irregularly shaped arête to the left of Biscochelo de Fresa. Climb to the roof and pull through the easy jugs and onto the face, finishing at the bolts just below a small overhanging tree. | 18m, 8 | |||
Forum West Wall | |||||
5.12a | ★★ Aquella
Start on the same line as Chiquisa,using a side pull and some delicate moves to climb up to the second bolt and then head right. Continue towards the roof keeping right of the overhang to a open book. Use a mixture of stemming and hidden hand and foot holds to work your way up the open book before some lovable jugs, and a final push for the anchors. | 16m, 7 | |||
5.12a | ★★★ Chiquizá
This route has a little bit of everything. Technical and delicate, yet fun climbing on crimps with seemingly perfectly placed jugs for resting. Climb to the large overhanging roof where large jugs reside. In order to avoid some serious rope drag on the sharp edge of the overhang, don’t forget your extended draw. After resting under the roof, make the bold brawny moves through the monster jugs to haul yourself on top of the overhang. Now that you are done with the fun, get down to business as hand and foot holds almost completely disappear. Hug the refrigerator sized block with all four limbs, pray for great friction, think like a boulderer, and scramble to the anchors shared with Aquella to the left. | 16m, 7 | |||
5.12a | Tractomula
Start on a slightly overhanging dihedral with a layback crack across from a tree. Work the layback to a good rest, and then continue to follow the crack until a ledge where you can really rest it out, no-hands style. From the ledge use the pockets and some high feet to haul over the overhang and onto the slab before the anchors. Handholds really start to disappear as you climb over the final bolt and make for the super shuts. A word of warning, the slab at the top of the route is often very dirty after the rainy season. | 18m, 8 |
Showing all 13 routes.