Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Date | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
7b+ | ||||||||
7b+ | ★★★ Tufa King Pumped | 25m | Kalymnos | ★★★ Classic | Wed 9th Apr 2014 | |||
One burn placing draws, then took them off. Hope I can get back to it and get someone else to put the draws on.
|
||||||||
5c 7b+ | ★ Gloria Gaynor (Gloria gaynor P1) | 34m | Discoteca | ★ Good | Sun 4th May 2014 | |||
7b | ||||||||
7b | ★★★ Bitman | 30m | Kalymnos | ★★★ Classic | Sun 6th Apr 2014 | |||
Was pumped out even second time around. Thank god for the octopus stalactite to sit on
|
||||||||
7b | ★★ Rocklandis | 30m | Kalymnos | ★ Good | Wed 9th Apr 2014 | |||
Thin and techy.
|
||||||||
7b | ★★ Aurora | 52m | Kalymnos | ★ Good | Fri 11th Apr 2014 | |||
Got to2nd last bolt and rope drag from ground so bad I could barely clip. Hung in while dave climbed slab, clipped next bolt, fell off and lost interest in boulders crux moves to anchor.
|
||||||||
7b | ★★ Omiros | 22m | Kalymnos | ★★ Very Good | Sat 12th Apr 2014 | |||
Took a while to sort out the moves first time round
|
||||||||
7b | ★★ Meltemi | 20m | Kalymnos | ★★ Very Good | Tue 15th Apr 2014 | |||
Got worse the more I tried and ended up wrong handed but mad, so just kept going.
|
||||||||
7a+ | ||||||||
7a+ | ★★ Neurones des cosmiques | 23m | Sex du Corbeau | ★★ Very Good | Fri 12th Aug 2005 | |||
TR, did moves,1 fall,1 rest. But possible!
|
||||||||
7a+ | ★★★ Stranger in Paradise | 25m | Kalymnos | ★ Good | Thu 3rd Apr 2014 | |||
2nd go. A lot of traversing back and forward made climb feel twice as long
|
||||||||
7b 7a+ | ★★★ Leonidas (Leonides) | 35m | Kalymnos | ★★★ Classic | Fri 4th Apr 2014 | |||
Thin, technical and sustained, just the way I like it.
|
||||||||
7a+ | ★★★ Nickel | 32m | Kalymnos | ★★ Very Good | Wed 9th Apr 2014 | |||
Fell past the last bolt, not having clipped it on on sight. Really nice til the top.
|
||||||||
7a+ | ★★★ Reptil | 40m | Kalymnos | ★★★ Classic | Sun 20th Apr 2014 | |||
A battle with the crocodile. A bit sharp, but full value.
|
||||||||
7a+ | ★★★ Reptil | 40m | Kalymnos | ★★★ Classic | Sun 20th Apr 2014 | |||
A battle with the crocodile. A bit sharp, but full value.
|
||||||||
7a 7a+ | ★ Orme perdute | 10m | Galbiate | ★★ Very Good | Thu 1st May 2014 | |||
Didn't think I could do it first go but came close second. Damn.
|
||||||||
6c+ 7a+ | ★ Lupo Alberto | 40m | Nago | ★ Good | Mon 5th May 2014 | |||
Pitch one only 6c+, crimps
|
||||||||
7a+ | ★★ Rosencrantz | 16m | Nago | ★★ Very Good | Fri 9th May 2014 | |||
'Flashed' on TR, maybe I should start at this grade and dispense with the 6b lot....steep but juggy start, and then some cool underclings
|
||||||||
7a+ | ★ Dolphinger | 20m | Val d'Algone | ★ Good | Sat 17th May 2014 | |||
Short crux sequence, not a great plan on the 10th route of the day
|
||||||||
6c 7a+ | ★ Happy hour | 40m | Fessourier | ★ Good | Sun 8th Jun 2014 | |||
Spaced bolts, good moves.
|
||||||||
7b | ★★★ Great blanc | 25m, 11 | Céüse | ★★ Very Good | Wed 11th Jun 2014 | |||
Not close I think, linkage would be hard.
|
||||||||
6a 7a+ | Intouchables (6a to right of crack) | 30m | Rocher Maubert | Average | Sat 14th Jun 2014 | |||
This was pretty hard at one point, and clipping anchors.
|
||||||||
7a+ | ★★ Namaste | 27m | Rocher Maubert | ★ Good | Sat 14th Jun 2014 | |||
As much glue as a bluies route. And chipped. And crap rock, but I still liked it enough.
|
||||||||
7a+ | ★★ Clement comme ill respire | 25m | Saint-Léger du Ventoux | ★★ Very Good | Tue 17th Jun 2014 | |||
Really stupidly bolted.
|
||||||||
7a+ | ★★ Tenue correcte exigee | 27m | Saint-Léger du Ventoux | ★★ Very Good | Tue 17th Jun 2014 | |||
Very sustained. Not good at eotd.
|
||||||||
7a | ★★★ La chevauchee fantastique | 29m | Saint-Léger du Ventoux | ★★ Very Good | Wed 18th Jun 2014 | |||
Led it , but didn't realise you stY left of the tufa with bolts in stupid places. Then it pissed down rain. Cleaned on tr.
|
||||||||
7a+ | ★ Nikita | 20m | Pechón | ★ Good | Mon 16th Sep 2019 | |||
Did In 3 sits with a bit of figuring out,but 100% humidity and some suspect rock I decided to pack up and go. The moves at the bottom and top were good.
|
||||||||
7a+ | ★★ Patxanka | 22m | Collegats | ★★ Very Good | Thu 3rd Oct 2019 | |||
Rather steep. Would be a nice project. Only one shot.
|
||||||||
7a+ | ★★ Aromes de Camarasa | 21m | Camarasa | ★★ Very Good | Fri 4th Oct 2019 | |||
I could see the way to do the move above the 4 th bolt to large pocket for Dave, but too far for me. Took a while to work out alternate sequence that meant getting both feet above the overlap. Nice climb though.
|
||||||||
6b+ |
★★ Passaggio Chiave P1
1
6b+
20
Nice climbing. We came to the crag because its rain sheltered, but it was a Saturday and half of chiavenna seemed to join us, then the sun came out and the temps went up 10 degrees. It was time to leave. | 20m | Cranna | ★★ Very Good | Sat 23rd Sep 2023 | |||
7a | ||||||||
6c 7a | ★★ Primus (Primus Pitch one) | 30m | Trämel | ★★ Very Good | Sat 20th Aug 2005 | |||
TR, started raining before trying P2 at 7a
|
||||||||
6c+ 7a | ★★ Omero | 22m, 10 | Kalymnos | ★★ Very Good | Wed 9th Apr 2014 | |||
Tricky middle
|
||||||||
7a | ★★ Sens Unique | 40m | Kalymnos | ★★ Very Good | Wed 9th Apr 2014 | |||
A few slippery slopes.
|
||||||||
7b 7a | ★★★ Ixion | 25m, 11 | Kalymnos | ★★ Very Good | Fri 11th Apr 2014 | |||
Very techy.
|
||||||||
7a | ★★ Dionysos | 22m | Kalymnos | ★ Good | Sat 12th Apr 2014 | |||
Just couldn't pull the last move at end of day
|
||||||||
7a | ★★ Steinpilz | 30m, 14 | Kalymnos | ★★★ Classic | Sun 20th Apr 2014 | |||
Wow,it might be a little friable and wet but it kept me on my toes the whole way.
|
||||||||
7a | ★★ Steinpilz | 30m, 14 | Kalymnos | ★★★ Classic | Sun 20th Apr 2014 | |||
Wow,it might be a little friable and wet but it kept me on my toes the whole way.
|
||||||||
7a | ★★★ DNA | 20m | Kalymnos | ★★★ Classic | Mon 21st Apr 2014 | |||
Wasn't allowed to leave without doing this
|
||||||||
7a | ★★ Cigarillo | 28m | Kalymnos | ★★ Very Good | Mon 21st Apr 2014 | |||
Been upgraded in new guide. Glad for the rests
|
||||||||
7a | ★★ Akuaduulza | 32m | Torrette | ★★ Very Good | Tue 29th Apr 2014 | |||
Took a couple of goes to sort out the start, then flashed it from first bolt with a lot of wobbling
|
||||||||
7a | ★★ Tachicardia | 22m, 10 | Galbiate | ★ Good | Thu 1st May 2014 | |||
2 dogs in a day! Quite stout, very polished, and then the rain came.
|
||||||||
7a | ★★ Avana | 14m | Valle del Sarca | Average | Sat 10th May 2014 | |||
Found it reachy, and sharp. End of the day mistake.
|
||||||||
7a | ★★ Severance | Valle del Sarca | ★ Good | Tue 13th May 2014 | ||||
One attempt. A long move off an undercling. Some good sequences.
|
||||||||
7a | ★★ Coppa Del Nonno | Valle del Sarca | ★ Good | Thu 15th May 2014 | ||||
Did the cruxy start ok, sorted the cruxy roof, but the cruxy finish was very tricky, ended up mcdougalling a bit right.
|
||||||||
7a | ★ Rayleh rayleh | 20m | Val d'Algone | ★ Good | Sat 17th May 2014 | |||
Again, some damp holds, but avoidable.
|
||||||||
7a | ★★★ Cianbalaur (Cianbalava) | 35m | Finale Ligure | ★★★ Classic | Wed 21st May 2014 | |||
Had half the draws on. Quite committing in places
|
||||||||
6c+ 7a | ★★ Thor | 16m | Finale Ligure | ★★ Very Good | Tue 27th May 2014 | |||
This is 3 star! Very cruxy. Just couldn't pop into the 2 finger pocket right when trying to redpoint
|
||||||||
7a | ★★ D'art d'art | 40m | Fessourier | Sun 8th Jun 2014 | ||||
A bit scarily bolted. Slipped off roof when knee bar unexpectedly disengaged. I wasn't even tired. Re climbed from slab. Horrible start.
|
||||||||
7a | ★★★ Ultrakumba | 25m, 9 | Cavallers | ★ Good | Mon 19th Aug 2019 | |||
Rather thin for a while, but amazing friction
|
||||||||
7a | ★ Zumo de Presa | 12m | Oriente | ★ Good | Sat 7th Sep 2019 | |||
The sequence through the roof is nails
|
||||||||
7a | ★ El tonto del parabolt | 18m | Rodellar | Average | Fri 27th Sep 2019 | |||
Couldn’t link bottom and top halves. Found it hard, and a little scary placing crux draw, and I normally like thin climbing
|
||||||||
7a | ★★ Un Bon Passage | 32m | Camarasa | ★★★ Classic | Sat 5th Oct 2019 | |||
Almost Blueys feeling, crimps, side pulls and some glue. Climbed up and down at the lower crux about 6 times working out the reachy sequence ( dave didn’t even notice this) and got the top crux well, quite exciting.
|
||||||||
7a | ★★ Fanàtic | 27m | Os de Balaguer | ★ Good | Tue 15th Oct 2019 | |||
Another frustrating route where I had to do about 10 moves to Dave’s one. Not that sustained in the middle
|
||||||||
7a | ★★★ Toleranza zero — 2 attempts | 20m | Val d'Algone | ★★ Very Good | Sat 2nd Sep 2023 | |||
Started up in new climbing shoes and had to swap at the hands free rest, but still managed to fall off after at mid crux. Worked out a better sequence for the mid crux for height. on sighted the start and end cruxes.
|
||||||||
5a |
★★ Fantaghirò
1
5a
10
Warm up | 10m, 13 | La Falesia Dimenticata | Tue 5th Sep 2023 | ||||
7a |
★★ Die Langweilige
1
6a
18m
Greasy
2
7a
18m
Had to rest when pulling roof. I think I was doing it the hard left hand way, but maybe I was just weak. The rest of the route was fine. | 36m | Höhlensteintal | ★★ Very Good | Fri 15th Sep 2023 | |||
7a | ★★ Rufus | Acquafraggia | Tue 26th Sep 2023 | |||||
Hadnt learnt my lesson about the sun and baked. Nice from flake up but no idea how to establish. Would make a nice grade 25 project at home.
|
||||||||
7+ | ||||||||
7+ | ★★ Trusa på utsida — 2 attempts | 14m | Himmeldalen | ★★ Very Good | Mon 7th Aug 2023 | |||
Had trouble around the fourth bolt, fingers and overhung, shame it’s so far from home!
|
||||||||
7 | ||||||||
7 | ★★ Den Lille — 2 attempts | 9m | Ofoten | ★★ Very Good | Wed 9th Aug 2023 | |||
Short but very much liked it, bouldery the cracky
|
||||||||
6c+ | ||||||||
6c+ | ★ Kamari | 20m | Kalymnos | Average | Thu 3rd Apr 2014 | |||
Found this very tricky, and sharp. Not sure about 3 stars!
|
||||||||
6c 6c+ | ★★ Cyclops | 20m | Kalymnos | ★★ Very Good | Sun 6th Apr 2014 | |||
Thanks to dave fort he draws and beta, was coming off this otherwise
|
||||||||
7a 6c+ | ★★ Callisto (Kallisto) | 28m | Kalymnos | ★ Good | Wed 9th Apr 2014 | |||
Crux really reachy, felt like 7a
|
||||||||
6c+ | ★★ Solomos | 35m, 12 | Kalymnos | Average | Wed 9th Apr 2014 | |||
Crap bolting off ledge. I aided up to clip second bolt to prevent a ground fall essentially. Sharp up top but nice moves
|
||||||||
6c+ | ★★ Adolf in the Bay | 20m | Kalymnos | ★ Good | Wed 9th Apr 2014 | |||
Nice climb, weird finish.
|
||||||||
6c 6c+ | ★★ Imia | 25m, 11 | Kalymnos | ★★ Very Good | Tue 15th Apr 2014 | |||
Nice and thoughtful climbing
|
||||||||
6c+ | ★★★ Totenhansel | 25m | Kalymnos | ★★★ Classic | Thu 17th Apr 2014 | |||
Came close to giving up about 3 times
|
||||||||
6c+ | ★★★ Dafni | 30m, 9 | Kalymnos | ★★★ Classic | Thu 17th Apr 2014 | |||
Did some moves I'd never even contemplated before
|
||||||||
6c+ | ★ Boomerang | 30m | Kalymnos | ★ Good | Mon 21st Apr 2014 | |||
Love hate. Great moves. Very sharp. Sucked in by the name. Will have to come back to kalymnos.
|
||||||||
6c+ | ★★★ Dog-Man Right Finish (Dogman variant) | 28m, 14 | Rethymnon | ★★★ Classic | Sat 26th Apr 2014 | |||
Lovely interesting climb up diagonal before stepping right to thin crack
|
||||||||
6c+ | ★★ Il mago | 24m | Torrette | ★ Good | Tue 29th Apr 2014 | |||
Led it, feeling quite run out and tricky to find holds, traverses a bit so cleaned it on tr.
|
||||||||
6c+ | ★ Cassio | 20m | Nago | Fri 9th May 2014 | ||||
Interesting sequences on sharpshooter pockets, but not too bad.
|
||||||||
6c+ | ★★ Estremi Rimedi | Valle del Sarca | ★ Good | Tue 13th May 2014 | ||||
Lead it, but crux off large ledge and not game to commit. Less scary on top rope.
|
||||||||
6c+ | ★★ Vita Da Corridoio | Valle del Sarca | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th May 2014 | ||||
Arête slapping fun
|
||||||||
6c+ | ★ Diedrinolo | 20m | Val d'Algone | ★ Good | Sat 17th May 2014 | |||
Wet pockets. This crag is probably super in late summer.
|
||||||||
6c+ | ★★★ Wat arun | 30m | Val d'Algone | ★★ Very Good | Sat 17th May 2014 | |||
A long corner that overhung about 5 metres.
|
||||||||
6c+ | ★★ Prana | 18m | Finale Ligure | ★ Good | Fri 23rd May 2014 | |||
Led it and found crux pretty hard. Overhung and traverses, so cleaned it on top rope after dave flashed it. Still tough second go, and grade adjusted.
|
||||||||
6c+ | ★★ poppea | 17m | Val Pennavaire | ★★ Very Good | Mon 2nd Jun 2014 | |||
Thunderstorm coming, and it felt pretty run out
|
||||||||
6c+ | ★ Humphrey bienfufer | 20m | Rue des Masques | ★ Good | Sat 7th Jun 2014 | |||
Draws were on, nice moves but scary looking conglomerate
|
||||||||
6c+ | ★★★ Oz | 40m | Fessourier | ★ Good | Sun 8th Jun 2014 | |||
I kept wanting to follow the flake. Difficult to see and reach hold
|
||||||||
6c+ | ★★ Le torcheur d'elephants | 25m | Saint-Léger du Ventoux | ★ Good | Tue 17th Jun 2014 | |||
Nice, especially the first half.
|
||||||||
6c+ | ★★ Sacre farceur | 18m | Saint-Léger du Ventoux | ★★ Very Good | Tue 17th Jun 2014 | |||
Second bolt quite high...nice moves up tufa
|
||||||||
6b+ 6c+ | ★★ Hold up | 30m, 15 | Saint-Léger du Ventoux | ★ Good | Tue 17th Jun 2014 | |||
About as hard as part 2
|
||||||||
6c+ | ★★ Hold up (Brandy en neonato) | 30m, 15 | Saint-Léger du Ventoux | ★ Good | Tue 17th Jun 2014 | |||
Had to extend draw as rope drag getting impossible
|
||||||||
6c+ | Streep tease | 20m | Saint-Léger du Ventoux | Average | Wed 18th Jun 2014 | |||
3rd draw clip page is nails and scary. Quite slopey.
|
||||||||
23 6c+ | ★★ Luis vuitron | 21m | Camarasa | ★★ Very Good | Sat 12th Oct 2019 | |||
Amazing sinker 2 finger pockets that make you worried about losing them, but hard to pick the best, quite a few red herrings. Second go.
|
||||||||
6c+ | ★★ Number one | 20m, 11 | La Falesia Dimenticata | ★★ Very Good | Tue 5th Sep 2023 | |||
Pocketssss, just lovely and the new shoes are feeling better
|
||||||||
6c+ | ★★ E il diedro — 3 attempts | 30m | Sottosassa | ★★ Very Good | Sun 17th Sep 2023 | |||
Had to stray onto the 7a to get the bottom section clean which included a full on dead point. Super hard moves. The second half dihedral was more grade 21.
|
||||||||
6c+ | ★★ Ali shuffle | 25m | Discoteca | ★ Good | Wed 27th Sep 2023 | |||
Got on this as the sun hit. Got to second last bolt on onsight. Slimpers at crux felt awful by then. Battled to anchors.
|
||||||||
7 | ||||||||
7 | ★ St. Pavel | 25m | Himmeldalen | ★ Good | Sun 6th Aug 2023 | |||
Really enjoying the rock, looks pretty crappy but rewards technique. Reminds of stuff around wanaka
|
||||||||
7 ~7- | ★ Adjöss och tack för fisken | 18m | Ofoten | ★ Good | Wed 9th Aug 2023 | |||
Presuming this is the rebolted ex trad route left of Jeppenruta. Not too hard.
|
||||||||
6c - 7b+ | ||||||||
6b+ 6c - 7b+ | ★★ Jette Le Esponge | 40m | La Barme | ★★ Very Good | Sat 23rd Jul 2005 | |||
TR, reachy
|
||||||||
6c/c+ | ||||||||
6c 6c/c+ | ★★★ Remember Wadi Rum | 25m, 8 | Kalymnos | ★★★ Classic | Thu 17th Apr 2014 | |||
Glad dave showed the way at top
|
||||||||
6c/c+ | ★ Mono Bongo | 20m | Lofoten | ★ Good | Wed 16th Aug 2023 | |||
Climbing in the Watagans has made me so used to sandbagged slabs that I really didn’t question that I wasn’t on the 6 a+ we thought we were doing (non updated digital Rockfax) despite a hard move involving a mono and some tenuous footers. Did clip anchors of 6 a+ on the way because they are in reach before going to this routes anchors above. A little too close to the route to the right at the last bolt.
|
||||||||
6c | ||||||||
6b 6c | ★★ Le Couscous | 20m | Les Gaillands | ★ Good | Mon 1st Aug 2005 | |||
TR - it was raining-pumpy
|
||||||||
6b 6c | ★★ Papa Giovanni Paolo II | 260m, 13 | Piz Ciavazes | ★ Good | Tue 30th Aug 2005 | |||
Great location. Nice safe bolts. Easy crux pitch, OS.
|
||||||||
6c | ★ Isidora | 30m | Kalymnos | Average | Thu 3rd Apr 2014 | |||
I didn't like this one that much
|
||||||||
6c | ★★ Olymbiakos (Olymbiacos) | 35m, 11 | Kalymnos | ★ Good | Thu 3rd Apr 2014 | |||
Short crux
|
||||||||
6c | ★★ Nabuchodonsor | 35m | Kalymnos | ★ Good | Fri 4th Apr 2014 | |||
A little damp, but some good moves, as close as I could get to gladiator today. I refuse to queue
|
||||||||
6c | ★ Gwundernasa | 20m | Kalymnos | Average | Sun 6th Apr 2014 | |||
Led it but had all sorts of trouble clipping bolt and with traverse right move,had to clip old rusty one. Did it on tr and it was still hard.
|
||||||||
7a 6c | ★ Igel | 20m | Kalymnos | ★ Good | Wed 16th Apr 2014 | |||
Far harder than jason, did go right of bolts down low, but that's what it's bolted for
|
||||||||
6c | ★★ Neptun KL | 28m, 11 | Kalymnos | ★★ Very Good | Sun 20th Apr 2014 | |||
Almost got classic but for the wet slimy top.
|
||||||||
6c | ★★ Neptun KL | 28m, 11 | Kalymnos | ★★ Very Good | Sun 20th Apr 2014 | |||
Almost got classic but for the wet slimy top.
|