Ascents in Jordan

OVERAL: Very nice route, with distant but solid bolts and easy to place intermediate protections. The difficult moves are well protected. The wall is South Face exposed, therefore can be done only in winter times/cold days.

ROUTE: 1st - Climb vertical on easy terrain (5b) but distanced bolts to a ledge and then left to the anchore (bolted with maillon).

2nd - Climb above the anchor on vertical wall, well protected, possible to integrate, with one tricky move to stand up on a small ledge (6a+), then a traverse to the right, protected with a bolt but exposed move (6a) to the anchor (two bolts).

3rd - Go up the corner, 6a, (high bolt, can integrate) then traverse on a slab to the left, 6a (easy to place protections) to a belay station (bolted with chain).

4th - Vertical difficult climb (6b) with a bolt very low placed and slippery feet. Then straight up with no bolts but ok protections until another bolt. Then another physical move out on a slab (6a) to the right (anchor with bolts and maillon).

5th - Exposed traverse right with a bolt in the middle and tiny feed and holds (6a+/b), then easier terrain with a bolt and easy to protect. Reach almost the top of the wall going right. Here you can make an intermediate anchor on huge sandclocks or traversing left onto a ledge (huge rope drag) to the last anchor (one bolt and sandclocks with old ropes connecting).

ABSEIL: 1st abseil 40m to the start of the 4th pitch. 2nd abseil, with a bit of drag to the left, to the end of the 1st pitch. 3rd abseil to the ground

GEAR: 6 quickdraws, one set of cams small and middle sizes, 2x 60m ropes.

Multiple areas of poor rock quality with danger of large size boulders falling on belayer

Swinging leads, all OS but for the crux, we both lead the crux pitch. Alomost flashed it but found my feet in the wrong position after the long move and was not able to resolve it. Only the crux pitch has an abundant number of bolts, while all others require some cams to bolster the few bolts or are enitrely clean.

Alt leads

We did on 3 pitches. P1: 5+ chimney then easy to belay p2: 5- Slaby crack p3: 5+ One handjam/crrack one overhang bit

Nice route, very consistent all the way. Shortened P1 and increased P2. Loose in places. Walked off the top.

Alt leads P2 and P4

Pitch 1 is a long scramble, with two Boulder problems at the start and end. Pitch 2 has a very awkward move up into the cave before the crux which I found to be trickier than the crux. The crux is 2 moves on good handholds before a high foot takes you to a safe ledge. Watch the rope in the crack if you clip the thread above this move. Pitch 3 is two very awkward squeezes with below average feet. With a bag on it’s something of a fight to wriggle through both these problems. Recommend hauling a bag. This pitch seems tough for 5- would probably grade at 5. Final pitch is 4 or 5 easy moves, made more tricky by how sandy the slab is, and then a monster of a move into a cave. I found this to be the trickiest move of the day. Due to how Sandy the holds are I would grade 5+.

Amazing climbing from top to bottom. The first pitch is pure crack, punishing anyone who tries to face climb it but rewarding those willing to trust the jam. I suspect for a good crack climber this is 5+ however for a more all-rounder such as myself this is firmly 6a climbing even in the crack. The second pitch is committing and there is an escape anchor incase it is too much for you, however if you step up and place crux protection you will find the moves very rewarding and within the 6a skillset. The 6b move is very intense but can be protected by stepping up and then down-climbing to recover before going for the full send. Requires high feet and faith in a left hand jam. Pitch 4 is the surprise of the route, once you feel you are past the hard sections onto nice easy 5b climbing, pitch 4 creeps up on you by being continually sustained over its entire 45m length. Pitch 5 is still enjoyable and less sustained.

Done it in 3 pitches. lead 1 and 3.

lead all pitches. on pitch 1 there is a an offwidth crack which needs a BD no.6 to protect. not a 2 move aither may be a 5c. some stations now have glue in anchors.

Beautiful line! More face than crack climbing.

Rope jammed on rappel, was forced to cut it /-: