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Tsavo

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Summary

Great climbing, remote, wild and a very tough walk to the biggest/best climbs on Kichwa Tembo.

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Description

Though difficult to reach, the setting is one of the best in Kenya and the climbing of a high quality. The gneiss walls are often covered in holds and free of vegetation. Cracks and corners abound, but tend to be more vegetated.

The most impressive piece of rock, the 300m. high E face, attracted the first explorers and resulted in the ascent of Great Tsavo Chimney. Mastadon took 3 visits before it was completed. One of the latest routes. Ivory Tower on Elephant Rocks, ranks with the best and hardest bush climbs in Kenya.

Generally pegs need not be carried. Unless climbing in the shade, an early start is advisable as it often gets very hot on clear days. The permit the MCK has to climb here, and to camp by the Tsavo river, is a special privilege and every effort must be made not to jeopardize this situation by careless actions. The following should be noted.

  1. Non MCK members must contact the MCK if they wish to climb in Tsavo. At present the privilege is extended to MCK members and their guests only.

  2. Ensure /our vehicle is adequately prepared for the trip. If you do not have 4WD, planks should be taken to help cope with deep sand.

  3. Do not drive in the park after dark.

  4. No walking, other than to and from climbs, is allowed.

  5. If you require mechanical assistance you will have to walk to Ngulia Lodge where help can be obtained.

  6. Only camp at the designated campsite unless special permission has been given.

  7. Take care with fires and bring out all litter. The toilet is a sandy area W of the camp; go at least 30m. away and dig a deep hole which should be thoroughly filled in after use; a panga should be taken on all trips for this specific purpose.

  8. Do not disturb animals. In the event of any need for medical assistance, obtain help from the warden as soon as possible.

  9. Exercise great care when approaching the river. There are numerous croco­diles and hippopotami in the water whose behaviour is unpredictable. River water can be drunk in an emergency; it contains no major diseases but it is rather muddy. Fresh water is available at the park gates and at Ngulia Lodge.

The nearest petrol/garage facilities are at Mtito Andei, 70 km. from campsite.

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Access issues

Within a National Park so you'll have to pay entry and respect Park rules.

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Approach

Drive Nairobi to the Mtito Andei park gate by road, 230 km. The campsite is still 70 km. The road from the gate to the campsite is tough and changes depending on fences being erected in the pak.

Access to cliffs: Walk-in is 1 hour hiking to Elephant Rocks. About 3 hours of tough uphill to Kichwa Tembo. There are no trails and lots of dangerous wildlife so take care.

All the cliffs are surrounded by dense bush and woods. Dead-fall, vines, thorns, boulders and loose steep soil all combine to impede progress and present difficulties. To minimize these problems choose a route carefully, where possible following animal trails, even if overgrown; if no up/down path exists then traverse till one is found. The access routes described need not be continuous paths, but in their general area there are many animal paths which can be linked together.

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Where to stay

Ask MCK about the special campsite. There are also some very luxurious lodges.

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Ethic inherited from Kenya

If you want to open new climbs in Kenya, kindly contact the Mountain Club of Kenya (www.mck.or.ke). We'll be happy to help!

Here is our bolting policy, please abide by it: http://mountainclubkenya.org/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/Bolting-Policy.pdf

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History

History timeline chart

Climbing first started here in 1978 when Bill Woodley, then the Warden of Tsavo West, opened up the park to climbers and invited the MCK to explore the cliffs.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Mountain Club of Kenya (Copyright Mountain Club of Kenya)

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Unlocated crags

This region has an unlocated crag! If you think you know where Elephant Rocks is located then please take a minute to locate it for the climbing community.

Locating crags gives you Karma points. Please contact us if you have any issues.

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Fri 26 May
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