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Kibwezi

  • Grade context: UK
  • Photos: 8
  • Ascents: 43
  • Aka: Ngoleni

Seasonality

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Summary

Kibwezi is a little explored area South 3 hours on Mombasa Road from Nairobi. It has enormous potential for bouldering, bold trad, and sport development, although little has been done there yet.

Description

Kibwezi has numerous crags and boulders on the mountain of Ngoleni, which is capped by a number of cellphone towers. It can be clearly seen from Mombasa road. There is also a lot of climbing in Dwa Estate with prior permission.

Access issues

Access is currently informal, as it is little visited, but the landowners are quite friendly and the security guards at the cellphone towers happy to have visitors. Do not pay the landowners without prior MCK approval.

Approach

The approach is from around the town of Kibwezi over a network of rough roads. These are well mapped on maps.me. Accessing the boulder fields and lower crags is not difficult, but the road to the summit is quite steep and can be muddy. A good 4x4 or Pro Box is recommended.

Where to stay

The area is generally friendly, and if you ask permission landowners will let you stay on their land in exchange for some food and company. Camping options are available. Plus Kambua Lodge in Kibwezi.

Ethic

Although the area has huge potential for 1 and 2 pitch sport, check with the MCK before bolting.

Areas

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Name
Style
Routes
Ticks
Height
Grades
Charcoal cliff
1
1
15m
1

Routes

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Grade Route

An easy, short climb East side of Tisia Rock. You start right side of a Baobab; climb up on to a ledge, there is a small over hang. Then scramble to the top under a tree.

In between Tisia 1 and 3, quite a steep climb, with little holds. The rock is not very nice. You must use a tope rope anchor that you access from the South of Tisia Rock.

One very visual crack straight up. Good rock here.

This requires access from the top and you anchor on two trees. It is a good climb with two stages, that joins a ledge and potentially a bee hive. You then climb straight up to the anchor point.

A short climb up to a crack, which you go straight up, a short scramble up to two big rocks which you then climb in between to the top.

Quite thick trees at the base. Climb to the left of a small tree up a small crack, you must traverse left and then right and straight up. Quite a technical move and a hard climb at the top. You must access the top to use a top anchor.

A classic for the area. Start on the SW of Dwa Rock in between a cave. Must climb in two stages, 1st up onto a big ledge. Then traverse to the left up to a big crack which you follow up to the top. Take caution of bees!

This is on the West side of Dwa rock, to the left of Dwa Rock 1. This is a straight climb up, little protection available. Classic for the area to date.

FA: Shaun Miller, 2022

Easy warm up climb North of Havens 1 & 2, best access in the dry due to bushes. Quite a lot of bees present. A small crack all the way up to the top. One must either Free Climb or access a top rope from the East Side.

FA: Shaun Miller & Sheena Miller, 3 Feb 2023

This is more of boulder problem (free). U must climb between the north most boulder and a rock face, onto the boulder. Then over to the rock face up a crack and to the top. This is without any rope! Beware there are a lot of bees at certain times of the year.

FA: Shaun Miller & Quinn Miller, 3 Jan 2023

This is a boulder problem. Quite easy holds although sharp and loose rock with thorns on the top. On top of the ridge of Miners Haven North of Wonders of Bees.

FA: 15 Jan 2023

A small rock face on its own as you enter Dwa Estate - a few possible climbs. Difficult to reach during the rainy season due to grass & bush.

FA: Shaun Miller & Sheena Miller, 12 Feb 2022

Climd around the back, take caution of bees to get top rope access. Rap off the West side and then re-climb up the only major crack on the West side.

FA: Shaun Miller, 2 Mar 2023

Areas

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Name
Style
Routes
Ticks
Height
Grades
Lower Shamba boulder field
10
11
5

Routes

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Grade Route

Short crack climb up to Miner's Boulder

FA: Shaun Miller, 24 Feb

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Fri 26 May
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