Routes in Kenya for selected grade

1. 30m. Start in a slight recess just to left of large fig tree. A prominent flake lies on the face. Climb to good stance on this flake. Traverse right along ledge. Thread runner in a hole at 6m. Continue traversing at this level round the corner and then ascend 9m to reach the "keyhole". Belay peg in place and thread in back of "keyhole".

2. 20m. Climb upwards out of "keyhole" until level with a series of cracks running out to the left along the overhanging portion of the cliff. Move out along these cracks. Two awkward moves lead to a wide, grassy ledge. Easy climbing to top.

The best easiest way up the Castle, and superior to Committee Wall. Ian Howell first climbed it in 1982 but to this day can't remember who his second was. Some parties belay half-way up in the Committee Wall 'keyhole', but this might not be the best belay in the world. It can be done in one long pitch, but watch your pro carefully for the last thing you want on the final moves is rope-drag. The climb takes the East face of the Castle and starts in a gully where there is a leaning block below and right of the Committee Wall 'keyhole'. From block move up leftwards past a bolt, step left and continue leftwards to the arete. Straight up to 'keyhole'. Move up rightwards some 6m and gain a prominent ledge system which leads up diagonally leftwards. Hold your breath and traverse left along this (crux), until holds allow an exit above.

Starting up Golden Anniversary, join Committee Wall at the 'keyhole'

Probably worth doing if for no other reason than the rare pleasure of climbing a crack at Lukenya. At the left end of Upper Cliffs is a dark bay. The Lizard takes the line up the corner, and immediately left of the bay is a steep wall with an overhang at 4.5m. Left of this is a thin crack. Ascend crack on finger-locks for 10m, then easily up arete to abseil cable.

Start some 7.5m right of The Joy Of Frogs just left of prominent tree. Strenuous pull up over bulge (it is a crime to touch tree), then up slightly left to steep wall. Mantle shelf up this then up to belay ledge at 25m. Either traverse left to abseil cable or make long rising traverse up rightwards to top of cliff.

Start about 4.5m right of Pilot Of The Storm. Easily up to flake at 4.5m then surmount overhanging wall above on good jugs. Up slightly rightwards on easier rock to belay. Finish as for Pilot Of The Storm.

Originally led without the bolt this little climb then packed a wallop. Go up the gully on the right of the Buttress to base of prominent arete immediately right of steep portion of cliff. Start directly below arete which is climbed to horizontal break. Bolt above. Step right, up, then left above bolt to easier ground. Continue left to good position on skyline. Straight up to top.

Same start as Smooth or it is possible to begin about 2m to the right. Clipping the first bolt of Smooth is definitely offroute. After reaching the first pocket on Smooth, climb a left-lacing crack (will take a cam) about 3m to the right of the bolt and move up and left of an orange dihedral (a smallish wire can be put behind a flake). Continue up steep ground to a horizontal crack (flexi-cam placement) and either move straight up onto a good horizontal ledge or move left and up using good holds and a hanging flake higher up (possible pro here). Exit rightwards.

2020 Edit: This route is probably the same as 'Bliss of Nemesis', which was bolted without being aware of the existence of this trad route.

To the right of Comparing Notes is a corner. Start on right-hand side of corner at hole at about 1m. Ascend and slant left around corner, then straight up to top.

Start 3m left of Theft at small "V" shaped holds. Climb about 4m on small holds then move slightly left (crux), reaching crack. Up overhang and easy to finish.

Start 2m left of obvious demarcation between lichen and dark rock. Start on small holds leading to scoops. Direct line continues to horizontal crack at approx. 7.5m (pro), then continues on easier ground to belay.

Start some 20m right of Number One at two parallel rock faults. Climb left-hand fault 4.5m then move to right- hand fault and follow to top.

A difficult start that can be avoided if traversing from the right. From here, work up easier terrain to a stance below the face. A final tricky section lies in wait at the top!

Go up the easy broken rock to the right of Kenyan Cowgirl.

Travel on jugs on overhanging face above Chicken Head.

Up the easiest part of the boulder with lots of textured holds and good feet. Stand-start. Good for first-timers outside or for a quick warm-up.

Stand-start, up the left-hand side of the boulder on good holds.

Stand-start. Up the middle of the slabby section of the boulder, good practice for finding feet and smearing on slabs.

Sit start, both hands in the crack. Up the crack and left onto the half-way ledge. Straight up from there.

Easy warm-up or beginner lowball. Traverse left to right with hands on jugs on the arete.

On the far left of the boulder, from the platform of the large boulder below. Stand-start on obvious big jugs on the arete and go straight up more jugs.

Stand-start just right of the left arete. Go straight up.

Up the slab on the easier right-hand face of the boulder. Sit-start on the big crack, straight up via one slightly tricky friction foot move.

Same start as for Screaming hyrax, but go up the earlier diagonal crack.

Start on the higher crack on the left of the boulder, and follow it up to to its end and top out.

Entrance

On the left side of the boulder from Baby Slap. Stand-start on good feet and and handholds. Up jugs to the top.

Stand-start to the right of the crack in the middle of the boulder. Move up staying right of the crack.

SIt-start on the lowest rail on the slabby black rock to the right of Sit-start warm-up and Mojave. First move hardest, but still easy enough, then up jugs to the top.

On the right side of the mountain-facing side of the lower boulder, just left of the very tall face and Slipper Feet and Osoit. Stand-start on obvious big holds and go up on more good holds from there. A bit high but always on solid holds.

Stand-start on the right of the boulder, just left of where it cracks, on good holds. Up on jugs.

Sit-start on same holds as Ninja, move right to big rail, using the flake above gently to exit right.

To the far left of the cave, the short wall curves into a dilute arete. The route goes up this. do not fall.

Great introduction to highballing - good rock, good feet and good holds with a juggy finish. Stand-start in a kind of break in the bushes and trees about 10 m right of Bone Hole. Straight up the obvious line of holds to the top.

Stand-start on the left-hand side of the boulder, with hands on good holds. Work your way up and right along the jugs on the arete.

Second line from the left, straight up from a stand-start on two decent holds. Up and slightly right. The sit-start is V2, from the low blocky hold.

Stand-start from the side-pull on the left of the boulder. Straight up on good holds.

Good slab climbing exercise. Go straight up the middle of the small slab from standing, relying on friction and small pebbles.

Easy moves up the left of the boulder.

Up the arete on the right.

To the right of sanity crumble, start low and delicately get to the top.

At the extreme right end of the Main Wall there is an obvious corner where the cliff bends sharply into Entrance Wall. This route makes its way up to the left of the corner. Start below the prominent nose by a large detached block.

1. 25 m. Climb onto block then up steep crack to ledge. Follow crack above until it is possible to step right, then up blocks to good belay.

2. 25 m. Climb above belay and step right to ledge. Now up to higher ledge, from where a traverse leads left for 5 m to a crack. Up this and belay on a detached block. Peg belay.

3. 30 m. Straight up slabs above for 10 m to recess (peg runner). Descend a few feet then traverse left across steep wall to crack. Up this to ledge then finish up broken rock to the right. Seriousness: 3

To the right of Recompense there is a thin crack descending from the bush. Ignore this but start 3 m right where there is a rightwards leaning wall. Move up wall then step left into groove. Continue up this for 9 m until a move can be made right onto a slab and ledge. Now left to sharp arete and swing around this to join Recompense below the overhang which is turned on its right. Finish up Recompense.

First impressions are that the grade is 22 A2, but we would be happy for a second ascent party to downgrade the difficulty. Will write up description, but anyone wanting to repeat the route, can contact me at any time. Three pitches, right-hand side of Springs Wall, through the left side of overhangs.

At the left end of the recessed area is a large guano-smeared cave/chimney. This climb takes the crack to the right of this. Bridge up past the chockstones to the leftwards slantrng crack. Follow this to the top (crux). Good protection all the way.

Historic route number: 1

Ian Howell's 60th birthday present from MCK! This super little route is a rare commodity at Frog - a relatively easy sport climb. Start on left side of small buttress below an obvious horizontal flake/hold at 5'. Climb straight up over 4 bolts.

Historic route number: 2a

Begin just to the right of 'Bazooka'. Climb a crack until an awkward move can be made out to the left onto the obvious break which horizontally crosses Bazooka . Traverse leftwards across 'Bazooka', then climb the wall direct to tree belay.

Historic route number: 5

The thin crack on the right edge of the recessed grey slab is climbed on fingerjams, then the wider easier crack to the top.

Historic route number: 10

This is a direct version of the above route and begins in the same place. Up the chimney to tree. Move up and take the overhang by the bolt, finishing up some 'short and explosive' moves to top.

Historic route number: 15

This is the obvious chimney at the extreme left end of the main 'Frog Buttress'. Climb the chimney until a move out right can be made, and go up past a small tree. Move up the crack above, stepping left across wall and up to top.

Historic route number: 16

This climb is marred by the close proximity of the tree. The first few moves off the ground are [16], the rest of the climb being [15]. Start right of the big tree, under the first bolt. Straight up awkwardly (the boulder to the right of the start should not be used for assistance), and slightly left under two big branches that can be used for protection. Pass the second bolt to the left (crux) and step back right and finish above.

Historic route number: 21

To the right of 'Blue Valentine' is a large fig tree with its roots growing 20' up a wide crack. Climb the crack to the top.

Historic route number: 26

This route goes up the next wide crack to the right.

Historic route number: 27

Any climbers who feel the need to use the tree at the start of this route should look for another climb! Start behind obvious tree to the left of 'Flight of Fancy'. Hard move off ground, then follow crack to top.

Historic route number: 32a

A short climb but a good introduction to Frog climbing. Start below the corner 30' right of 'Flight of Fancy' with a tree at 35'. Climb left bulging wall then step right into corner when possible. Straight up through tree to top.

Historic route number: 34

This is the next wide chimney right, with the column of rock at its base. Climb the deep chimney to the chockstone. Surmount this and continue to top.

Historic route number: 36

This route follows the right-hand crack system at the back of the deep recess left of 'Ragged Glory'.

Follow the left-hand branch of the obvious crack, over horn to ledge at 30'. Enter the chimney until bulge forces you out left...or right? Finish through guano-filled tunnel under final chockstone.

Historic route number: 43b

Start in the slight recess just right of the previous route. Move up slightly leftwards to slab (same slab as 'The Day After'), then move rising rightwards, across the slab to an obvious finishing crack. Climb this to top.

Historic route number: 52

The face of the buttress to the right of the last route is split by a prominent crack. Climb up to the chockstone and surmount this to a ledge. Continue up the crack at the back using the left wall. The wide crack above is gained by an awkward step left, and followed to the top.

Historic route number: 59

Climb the deep obvious cave crack in the centre of the main buttress. Exit leftwards.

Historic route number: 65

At the right end of the crag are two open grooves. This route takes the left of these. Climb past the tree and continue to the top.

Historic route number: 71

This route climbs the square-cut groove to the right of 'Quisling'.

Historic route number: 72

To the left of 'Deception' is a slab leading to a leftwards-slanting ramp ending in a wide crack. Climb the slab to the ledge and make a hard move to gain the ramp. Up this to the foot of the crack. Climb carefully past a large loose block to gain the crack and finish.

Historic route number: 81

In the corner recess in the middle of the crag is a short chimney. Climb this to a ledge, and move left to a thin finger crack. Up this and exit left avoiding loose blocks.

Historic route number: 88

Start to the right of 'Moby Dick', directly behind some thin trees. Climb the corner/crack past three detached blocks. Climb black slab. Finish up the crack on left.

Historic route number: 90

This route climbs the black slab to the right of 'Maggie'. Start on top of a boulder, and make an awkward move onto the slab, then into the corner recess. Climb the slab to the bottom of the crack. Follow this to a good ledge and finish up the boulders on the left.

Historic route number: 91

A well bolted slabby sport route up the path of least resistance up the wall. Friable face holds may make the route easier or harder as the route cleans up. Bolted anchors without rap rings, due to the slabby nature of the route, tufts of grass, and flakes it is not advisable to rappel the route. Bring around 12 quickdraws and material for bolted anchor building. Watch for loose rock

1. 20m Start at a scoop of rock on a slabby buttress on the right side of the wall 5.7

2. 30m Continue up the slab with delicate movements past tufts of grass 5.7

3. 30m Meander up the slab as the steepness backs off and starts to form a large sloping ledge, be careful of loose rock 5.5

4. 20m From the belay climb the steeper rock through insecure slab climbing. a cruxy move or two brings you to a small perch 5.8+

5. 40m Continue up the steep slab as the angle gradually wears off to a set of bolts by a large boulder 5.8

Walk off descent to climbers left

Easy smearing up the backside slab of the boulder. Be humbled by the local kids walking up it barefoot.

Up the left side of the rightmost slab.

1. This route starts on the left toe of the large formation and heads up the path of least resistance to a good stance on a big ledge above the Guano Chimney.

2. A second pitch up a steeper section leads to anchors on top.

I guess technically this is a First Ascent? Climb the loose dirty chimney to the right of Wazimu. No protection. 45 feet.

Continuous thoughtful climbing on a short face to a two-bolt anchor.

Fun slabby route that finishes under the tree.

A cool feature of not too hard climbing. follow the Z and exit up to the left.

A route heading straight up to the right side of the pillar. The climb starts on the top of a ramp near a small tree (possible to climb a first pitch below). All belays are bolted (enabling abseil if you bring your own karabiners/maillons). The route is mixed trad/bolts and is very runout as it was bolted ground up.

1. 45m. Head up tending leftwards to cross a small overhang, then clip a bolt. Continue straight up to a nice belay ledge.

2. 50m. From the ledge, head left to cross small overhangs then head straight up, clipping a bolt on the way. Stay on the rock to the right of a cascade of grass. The belay is at the top of the grass on a nice grassy ledge.

3. Traverse right for a couple of meters, then head straight up, clipping one bolt on the way. Belay in a black scoop.

4. Head up tending slightly leftwards. The rock isn't so good on this pitch but bolts protects the worst parts (still runout).

5. Traverse a bit right, then up and a bit more right to clip a bolt. Then head straight up, one more bolt. Aim between two grassy ledges, clipping one bolt. The left ledge has a palm tree sticking out, that's where the belay is.

6. Head straight up to the small steepening at the top of the slab. Clip one bolt below the steepening, then traverse right to a large cave above a big palm tree.

7. Belay on roots (no bolts) to traverse right and up out of the cave. Final belay on a tree.

Variation: A thrilling finish heading directly up the tree roots to the roof overhang above the large cave was climbed by Peter Naituli and Ian Lekiluai on the 3rd ascent (17th March 2022).

Access: you can abseil from the top, or walk to the bottom of the route. Walking, get to the bottom of the cliff, then stay low while you aim for the big rock with orange overhangs separated from the main wall. Walk around that wall and find a way up (some scramble might be needed). There's a small flat spot on top of some white rocks to camp. Abseil: walk to the end of the tourist path, then walk along the cliff to a boulder tucked inside a forest. Follow a rough trail down. You can ask MCK for a GPS track. Find your way into the cave, then get to the first belay and abseil down the route (two 60m ropes needed), it's more or less straight but easy to miss a belay.

Start a short way up from the traverse left of Bone People, at the base of the corner leading straight up to notch between the Cat’s ears on the SE side.

1. 45m 4c. Up corner to 2nd tree, traverse L to a grassy area then up and back R to comfortable ledge and poor belays.

2. 15m 4c. Up corner awkwardly, chockstone runner, to gain ledge then easier climbing to the notch.

Up the arete. Don't use the wall to the right

This little highball ascends the easy crack on the left hand sector of the temple. Be ware of loose blocks at the top.

Left of Little Hiss. A rounded bastion of rock between the two chimneys provides pleasant climbing for the un-initiated.

Stand-start on the left-hand edge of the boulder. Mantle up onto the big ledge and up to finish.

Up the slab on the left side of the boulder.

Up the slab to the right of Warmup. Originally done with no hands, Johnny Dawes style - give it a go!

Shorter climb on far right with higher start in chimney and anchor sitting lower down.

(Most of this write up was taken from the MCK write up, as it's a slightly different route to the original (unnamed) route thats written up currently)

This route offers varied and protected climbing on good rock. At the right end of the SW-facing cliff a prominent tree grows some 10m up the cliff. A 5min walk gains the cliff.

1. 10 m 5a. A short, steep unprotected wall is climbed on small positive holds, move right across a ledge to scoop and hence up to the tree.

2. 25 m 5a. Move up to steep corner and climb crack on good holds to easier ground and a reasonable belay, building your anchor in a medium sized crack.

3. 20m Traverse. Move up about 2m from the Belay and then start traversing left. Will get to a good platform to rest on and a tree far left to rap down from. Drop is about 40m.

Immediately L of Elephant Rocks a vegetated descent gully is bounded to its L by a great fin of rock. The arete of this fin is covered in green lichen and has vertical seams. Monkey Arete (V+ **) climbs this (keeping R where possible) on good rock.

The comer and slabs to the R of Ivory Pillar are climbed by Call of the Wild (V+).

R of Vampire the slabs are unbroken till another major slightly vegetated fault is reached. From a pedestal just L of this fault climb to a high runner to protect a thin traverse R across a black slab, to gain the start of the fault line by tree roots and above a roof. Climb past two trees then an awkward traverse leads R to the arete; go up this to a ledge (45m.). Climb arete then move L and up a clean crack just R of a chimney. Take a stance before the crack ends (25m.). Take the R w a ll, step L across the corner and go up more easily till a long traverse L across the steep wall leads over an arete to a tapering slab (Vampire). Climb this (crux) to the horizontal cleft (25m.). Crawl L to a stance near trees (10m.). Surmount the roof at a point 20m. directly below the R-most end of the giant roof on the L; climb to this, passing it just to the R. Trend R to ledge and belays in a wide crack (40m.). Now as for pitch 8 of Vampire. Descend as for Vampire.

Climb the featured slab on the boulder about 50 meters uphill from Wino.

Routes 6 and 7 start from a great rock pinnacle. Climb a thin groove, traverse left and climb the great left-facing and overhanging corner to top. A more difficult approach is directly from the bottom (VI-).

From ‘Touching My Void’, this route follows the easiest-looking line up the face straight opposite, over the valley, following the right-facing corner.

1. 4c (40m). Start up small wall under corner, and traverse left under a steepening block into a gully. This turns into a corner, which is followed to a belay on top of a rock pillar.

2. 4c (40m). Continue up the corner via hard moves through a wide crack (crux) and exit via easier scrambling to top. Two tree abseils return you to the base of the crag

The aret on the climber's left of the boulder

start matched on horizontal crimp rail and ascend directly up the rounded aret on the climber's right of the boulder.

Scramble up the aret to the left of 'Mchagua jembe'. The first ascent was done pad less and barefoot

Round the aret, left of dragon glass. Sit start with hands matched at the base of the crack. Proceed up and right along sloping edges to the top

Start at the viewpoint where a boulder pillar allows access to slab on main wall.

1. 45m 4c. Climb pillar step onto slab and traverse boldly L 4m till good holds lead to easier grassy slabs. Up these, good runner, then move R and up to more grassy slabs and a small tree belay below the final headwall.

2. 10m. Traverse R over white slab to gain ledges, belay on R by tree.

3. 15m 4c. Pull up R-wards, using small flakes, onto a small ledge. Runner. Move R till a step up R reaches easier grassy ground. Up this trending R to belay on thorny bush (or scramble 5m to top, various belays).

See video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EjjKqxNZWA

Start on the left hand side of the prominent crack and by wedging yourself between the flake and main wall make your way up to the bolts.

An easy, short climb East side of Tisia Rock. You start right side of a Baobab; climb up on to a ledge, there is a small over hang. Then scramble to the top under a tree.

This requires access from the top and you anchor on two trees. It is a good climb with two stages, that joins a ledge and potentially a bee hive. You then climb straight up to the anchor point.

A short climb up to a crack, which you go straight up, a short scramble up to two big rocks which you then climb in between to the top.