Routes in Middle East for selected grade

A mega classic, the first 3 pitches are pure quality with interesting sustained climbing. Pitch 4 can be either direct (6b), or down then up the chimney (5). Needs large cams (camalot 5 or 6) for the upper offwidth pitches, double if you want to feel secure. Bolted Anchors. Upper pitches get sun earlier than lower.

1. 5c layback getting steeper, green cams for the top.

2. 6a twin cracks

3. 5c layback

4. 6b direct using peg or 5 going down into then up the chimney (loose blocks on top)

5. 5c

6. 4a

Descent: Rap via the route.

Single pitch corner. Probably harder than the given grade. Anchor on knots in the crack, to be verified.

First route from the left. Bolts of good quality. The anchor consists of two bolts without a chain.

Second route from the left. Bolts of good quality. The anchor consists of two bolts without a chain.

Article.

On Abu Judaidah’s North Gendarme. Mentioned in this AAC article.

Singlepitch.

the clip to the anchor is not an easy clip at all.

Scramble up the Siq (canoyn), till you reach the very obvoice open-book-shaped rock formation.

Climb up right the crack in the middle.

Kinda bouldery route, where you do one strong move to a good rest ... etc Shares the same anchor with the other route

hardest route in the sector

Mixed Trad

Refer to:

http://compagniedesguidesdechamonix.over-blog.com/article-trente-six-soleils-95890877.html

Gear:

8 Quickdraws, one set of Cams small and middle sizes, 2x 60m Ropes.

Descend:

3 abseils same route, (5th to 4th) - (4th to 1st) - (1st to the Ground).

Overall: Very nice route, with distant but solid bolts and easy-to-place intermediate protections. The difficult moves are well-protected. The wall is South Face exposed, therefore can be done only in winter times/cold days.

Pitch 1 (5b):

- 3 Bolts - Climb vertical on easy terrain (5b) but distanced bolts to a ledge and then left to the anchor (Bolted with maillon).

Pitch 2 (6a+):

- 5 Bolts - Climb above the anchor on a vertical wall, well-protected, possible to integrate, with one tricky move to stand up on a small ledge (6a+), then a traverse to the right, protected with a bolt but exposed move (6a) to the anchor (Two Bolts).

Pitch 3 (6a):

- 4 Bolts - Go up the corner, 6a, (high bolt, can integrate) then traverse on a slab to the left, 6a (easy to place protections) to a belay station (bolted with chain).

Pitch 4 (6b):

- 3 Bolts - Vertical difficult climb (6b) with a bolt very low placed and slippery feet. Then straight up with no bolts but ok protections until another bolt. Then another physical move out on a slab (6a) to the right (anchor with bolts and maillon).

Pitch 5 (6a+/b):

- 3 Bolts - Exposed traverse right with a bolt in the middle and tiny feed and holds (6a+/b), then easier terrain with a bolt and easy to protect. Reach almost the top of the wall going right. Here you can make an intermediate anchor on huge sandclocks or traverse left onto a ledge (huge rope drag) to the last anchor (one bolt and sandclocks with old ropes connecting).

Abseils

1st abseil 40m to the start of the 4th pitch. 2nd abseil, with a bit of drag to the left, to the end of the 1st pitch. 3rd abseil to the ground

Thanks To for the Details {Emanuele Gallone}

NE diedre of 1232 dome Al Maghrar. Corner crack climbing for 4 pitches then scrambling to the summit.

1. There is a piton near the top but it is off route?

2. run out for the last few moves, to a bolt and piton belay

3. more corner

4. crux pitch, to a single bolt on a ledge, look for rap belay on the right side of the ledge

5. A short pitch to the blocks

6. Weave up the featured face, to a thread

7. weave up the featured face, to a thread.

scramble to the summit.

Descent

abseil via route. P7->P6->P5->right side of ledge at top of P4->P2->Ground. Lower crack liable to eat ropes.

Traverse in from the right for 5c+

Direct start for 6b+

Sit start on the arete and small pocket, make one or two moves to the lip and mantle to top out.

p1: 24 p2: 24

Multipitch trad. Double set of friends from 0.3 to 5. Two bolt anchor stop P1 and ring chains on P2. Lower-off in two rappels.