Routes in Middle East for selected grade

Plaisir route Ascent to the routes

Climb up the super low angled slab making a high-step crux towards the top. Has a two bolt anchor at the end of the slab before the wall turns vertical. A great route for children or first timers. If you don't have trad gear you might as well just solo it to set it up for beginners. It's really easy... Also you could climb a "direct" start with the short slabby hand crack, which is kinda fun. The dual cracks up top (left is easier) have been led but there is no top anchor due to chossy nature of the rock at the top. If you're going to do the "second" pitch or link it to the top, make a gear anchor and belay your second up. Goes at about 5.10

The obvious huge corner system is trad.

Nice introduction to the crag. Originally short (thus the name) but now much longer.

Another nice slab route.

#SD

Sit start from the white colored portion and go straight up. Alternatively, can use the right side of the bloc.

Starts on the huge ledge. Reachy first move.

Easy beginner route at the very end of the sector

Traversing right.

Fun climbing for a 4, run out. No anchor, but might be possible to improvise with the features, use caution.

only heads

Trad line unsure of where it is.

Missing anchor

Slab. There are two routes to the same anchor.

slab

1st pitch 30m 3c

10 bolts (plus belay stations with 2 bolts each) 40m Walking.

2nd pitch 15m 4b

3 bolts (plus belay stations with 2 bolts each)

plus top anchor consisting of 2 bolts You climb the left side around

solo downclimb

solo

solo downclimb

anchor replaced with glue-in bolts , maillon and/or connecting cord might be missing

anchor replaced with glue-in bolts , maillon and/or connecting cord might be missing

pitons + slings are needed

linea trad in fessura non chiodata con sosta a spit

Topo: Howard guidebook #10.

Topo: Howard guidebook #11.

A big jaggedy crack of variable width and creative protection. Guide book says it's a f4 but it could feel harder if your not used to the awkward style.

Time: 4 hours up and down, if you know where you're going 2 hours. Approach 30 mins to 1 hour from rakabat east entrance.

Gear: Full rack.

• P1 f-5: Straight up the crack, Reaching a small ledge/cave on the right with a big thread (40m).
• P2 f4: Exit the cave back into the crack where it opens up more, with bridging and standing on what could be brittle spikes and flakes. Belay from a big flat ledge with a roof on the right just before the crack opens and flattens out
• P3 f3: Climb / traverse right to reach a bigger plateau (limited useful protection).
• P4 f3: Optional, scramble to the summit. If not head up right to the ridge line.

Descent.

Follow the ridge line steeply down generally staying on the right side snaking back and forth. There will be some down climbing and maybe some cairns. Eventually trending more to the right, heading for the canyon crossroad. It is possible to get down without abseiling.

A single pitch route to the right of the routes Little gem and Soumises. Abseil on threads.

Very easy trad intro in Rum with comfortable places to build stations. Hard to protect 3rd pitch leads to nice 4th pitch crack.

More of a scramble than a climb. A gentle morning out. Situated on the west face. Looks like it has not been climbed all that much so there is brittle rock all over. The guide book gives this route a grade f5 however it didn't seem like that, so we might have been off route.

Gear: Hardly any as there is either no point placing anything or you can't. A hand full of mid sized cams. Slings useful. Final abseil is about 60m.

Time: 4 hours up and down taking it very easy.

• Pitch 1 f4: The climb starts to the left of all the vertical cracks which lead to the mushroom overhang. There is a less than vertical gully. Climb this, unprotectable (or pointless to protect) for about 50m till you reach a short 2m face. Belay from above the face.
• Pitch 2 to summit, f3: Heading practically straight up the ramps. There is no massive need to do any pitched climbing if you don't want to as you can walk around any problems, but if you enjoy building anchors you can.

Descent.

Walk back down keeping a little bit to left of the route as it's less steep. 20 meters of so before the first belay head right and into the next big gully. The guide book mentions a hidden abseil. We didn't see any evidence, but set up an abseil on a big thread and went down the face, to the floor (approx 60m).

A pleasant scramble to the summit, with optional climbing.

On the west face, the route is easily spotted by the giant ramp. The TH guidebook topo seems a touch off on the location of some of the features.

Weave your way up the easiest path of the lower formation to reach a short problem of f4 just below the main ramp, (a bit reachy). After the ramp, head in the same direction into the bushy gully and find your way up the easiest part of the left wall to gain the domes to the summit. There is also a hidden rock bridge on the right.

Alternatively after the ramp, cross the plateau and head left along the wall to find 2 pitches of 5- and 4+ (possibly the big black corner, unchecked).

Descent: from the summit find the abseil back down to the plateau / ramp top, from there reverse route either abseil or scramble. Alternatively descend via Bedouin routes north or south unchecked.

7 slings

4 slings

5 Pitches of varied climbing, cracks, faces, corners and mushrooms, finishing up the black groove.

1. 3+: From a small canyon on the east side of the mountain, start up the crack and move left to a 2nd higher crack.

2. 4+: Gain the ledge, then climb through 2 mushrooms, then walk left to belay from large threads.

3. 4+: Easy walk left then back up right, climb up the slab.

4. 3+: Climb up the corner crack in the black groove. (~40m)

5. 3+: Continue up the corner crack heading right onto the face then left at the end.

Decent: Head north over the back to find your way down. Perhaps a small down climb to reach the ground. (30 mins)

Not in the guide book. Round the corner from barefoot groove. About UK grade severe.

On the "Corner" Crag next to Full Moon Waning, west from an Al Hasani from Obeid's Camp.