Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Arapiles Closed Declaration Crag Area Declaration Crag | |||||
8 | ★ Marshmallow Sea DS
The undercut direct start to 'Marshmallow Sea' is definitely a little harder than the original. | 14m | |||
Arapiles King Rat Area Light Fingered Gully | |||||
8 R | ★★ The Match
Head R then up the chossy front-side of the prow. Start: Start at the teetering stack on the R side of the gully, at the initials. FA: Chris Baxter & Andrew Smith, 1966 | 25m | |||
Arapiles Atridae House of Atreus | |||||
8 | ★★ Tantalus
Start: Start 10m R of 'Tiresias'.
FA: Dick Salt, Jim Newlands & Alan Marsland, 1965 | 35m, 2 | |||
Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Central Organ Pipes | |||||
8 | ★★ Diapason
1
7
20m
2
6
25m
3
8
10m
The first climb done in the Organ Pipes. A very pleasant outing. Start 8 metres left of big dead gum tree.
FA: Steve Craddock, Bob Craddock & Rob Taylor, 1963 | 55m, 3 | |||
Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Past Present Buttress | |||||
8 | Echo
This climb is on the north -east face of the buttress. One metre to the right of Past & Present. FA: Troy Surkitt & Dan Cross, 30 Apr 2015 | 10m | |||
Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Cecilia Wall | |||||
8 | Merry Go Round
Slab and bulge at right end of slabby terrace. Continue up yellow tinged corner. FA: Keith Lockwood | 25m | |||
8 | Emohawk
Scramble down and around the corner left of ETGZ. Start left of right arete. Up and step left onto 'emohawk'. Then up slabby arete. FA: Dwayne Dibbly & Ace Rimmer, 1996 | 10m | |||
Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Morfydd Wall | |||||
8 | Blinky Bill
This bit of rock is getting more crowded than High Dive Gully. It would be surprising if any of the climbing is new. Start up Kincaid then cross to steep juggy crack on the right wall. From the big ledge (belay possible) climb past the No Standing chains then centrally up headwall. FA: Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 24 Jan 2017 | 25m | |||
Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Closed Plaque | |||||
8 | Dodgy Brothers
Start: Start 2m R of FoF. FA: Martin Lama & Graeme Smith, 1991 | 10m | |||
8 | Lobbail
Up Loboff till the start of the traverse, then up left through funky bulge. FA: Someone, 2014 | ||||
Arapiles Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall | |||||
8 | ★★★ Kestrel Alternate Finish
An easy pitch for parties wanting to get from Kestrel to Flinders Lane without an increase in grade. From the belay at the top of the first pitch, step right and climb up right a couple of metres to a ledge system. Walk right across the mossy ledge system to the corner on the final pitch of Yo Yo and follow this to Flinders Lane. Make sure to place a good directional runner after the traverse. | 42m | |||
8 | The Eighth Direct Finish
A way to the top of the cliff. Unfortunately it breaks down very quickly into an unpleasant gully. 20m (8) From the right end of Flinders Lane, climb a juggy corner into a chimney. Belay on second ledge. 45m (4) Up the chimney-gully. FA: Greg Lovejoy & Bob Craddock, 1964 | 60m, 2 | |||
Arapiles Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Syrinx Area | |||||
8 | Pan Groove
A gentle romp that could serve as an alternative start to The Dribble. Up the Pan Grove slab to whitish blocks at 15m. Instead of moving right (as for Pan Grove), continue following the left-leaning groove. When the groove peters out, step slightly right and finish in the obvious groove. Note: the steep bulging crack on the right is lovely to start, but the finishing blocks are a bit dodgy. Belay on the Senior Citizens terrace and descend Pan Grove. FA: Keith Lockwood & John Smart, 20 May 2018 | 40m | |||
Arapiles Grotto Wall Area Grotto Wall | |||||
8 | ★★ Boundary Rider
A hybrid route between Llareggub and The Flue.
FA: | 45m, 3 | |||
Arapiles Voodoo Area Dead-point Wall | |||||
8 | The Skeleton Coast
Gets more atmospheric the higher you go. Takes the north ridge of Deadpoint Wall. Start below the U-shaped gully behind Death Row Pinnacle.
FA: Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 27 May 2015 | 75m, 3 | |||
Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Death Row Pinnacle | |||||
8 | Water Wings
5 metres right of Howling. Start as for 'Laurel and Hardy' directly under the rap chains. Thereafter take left leaning crease in rock and the easiest left line to the pinnacle summit. FA: Hywel Rowlands & Josh Bassett, 7 Jun 2014 | 25m | |||
Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Front Wall and West Face | |||||
8 | ★★ Spiral Staircase
Instead of going up to the front, follow the track around and up onto the north shoulder of the Pharos. Start at a low-angled, blunt spur just left of a vegetated gully.
FA: Greg Lovejoy & Steve Craddock, 1963 | 100m, 4 | |||
Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Vanoise Area | |||||
8 | Sombrero
Not great. Some distance down right are low-angled mossy faces with ledges in between. Scramble up to deep, right-facing chimney. This is your mission should you choose to accept it. FA: Lloyd Lobbe & Daryl Carr, 1967 | 84m | |||
8 | Long John Silver
Best approached by one of the other climbs in the vicinity. Step across the tree-filled gully behind the top of South Pacific etc, follow the weakness in the wall and finish centrally up the juggy tower. FA: Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 8 Apr 2015 | 30m | |||
8 | Pieces of Eight
The easiest slab at Arapiles(?). Could be done as an approach pitch to Long John Silver. Climbs central weakness in the slab around right from Blackbeard. Scramble up to start. Gentle slab split by a juggy crack. FA: Keith Lockwood, Laurie Bennett & Shaun Norman, 21 Apr 2015 | 18m | |||
Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Voidoid Pinnacle | |||||
8 | ★ Barefoot in the Park
Nice rock, nice moves, brilliant nut pro. With that many superlatives it's gotta be worth a star, right? Start: Start right of 'No Turning Back'. FA: Keith Lockwood & Tim Lockwood, 1995 | 15m | |||
Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Huey and Satellites Upper Pharos Gully | |||||
8 | Teddy Bear's Picnic
A short way downhill from Sheer Ecstasy Wall on the same side of the creek is a small wall. At the start there are two left leaning parallel cracks that merge about halfway up. Take the right hand crack. This has a bouldery start. To the top. Good pro and an easy walk off. FA: Robbie Martin & John Watson, 2013 | 10m | |||
Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Lower Gully | |||||
8 | The Depths
... of depravity. A spelunking expedition through the bowels of the cliff. Climb into the chimney past the beginning of Open Road and A Bridge Too Far and just keep on going. Easy chimney climbing with a dodgy flake system for gear leads to a good belay above massive chockstones. Some of the poorest rock you'll find at the Mount, not a classic. Turns out to be a variant start to Hunting For Swedish Fish (in Cheops Buttress area). | 35m | |||
Arapiles The Watchtower Faces Pinnacle Face Area Below Tiptoe Ridge | |||||
8 | Beer and Trembling
Middle of left wall into shallow corner. Exit left FA: Greg Pritxchard & Nicki Sunderland, 1992 | 10m | |||
8 | Falling Numbers
Bridge up groove at back of alcove, swing left onto large flake. FA: Greg Pritchard & Phil Wilkins, 1993 | 20m | |||
8 | ★ Tiptoe Ridge Direct Start
Obvious left diagonal to thin crack | 30m | |||
Arapiles Northern Group Harlequin Cracks Area | |||||
8 | Henry's Sample Is Missing
This pleasant, easy crack midway between The Clown and 'Court Jester' was probably first soloed by Louise to get access to the top of School For Scandal during her massive cleaning exercise. | 12m | |||
8 | Striding Ridge
Another long ramble, about half of which are bits of existing climbs.
FA: Stev Findlay & Keith Lockwood, 15 Aug 2016 | 140m, 5 | |||
Arapiles Northern Group Shiralee Wall | |||||
8 | ★ Cold Episode of Influenza
Takes the low angled groove at right end of wall. Shares anchor with I am a Banana Expert. FA: Wendy Eden & Geordie Webb, 25 Mar 2016 | 25m | |||
Arapiles Northern Group Heath Row Buttress | |||||
8 | Heath Row
Looks quite pleasant despite the odd small shrub. Was upgraded to 15 in Carrigan guide; someone must have strayed onto the then unclimbed Maiden Voyeur! Start: There is a small square chipped in the rock at the base of the route. FA: Ann & Roland Pauligk, 1973 | 48m | |||
Arapiles Northern Group Echo Crag | |||||
8 | Touchwood
Not without merit, despite the long scrambling start. Start about 50 metres left of Leaden Echo below black and orange buttress.
FA: Keith Lockwood, Chris Baxter & Ed Neve, 1974 | 70m, 2 | |||
8 | ★ Lone Pine Corner
Classic, square-cut corner starting dirctly behind small pine. Finish up easy ground above corner. FA: Keith, Timothy & Fiona Lockwood, 1993 | 30m | |||
Arapiles Northern Group Evelyn and Lou Area | |||||
8 | Better Not Peak
Up the crack then arete till angle eases. Follow sharp arete to spectacular summit. Start: Start at a crack on the east face of the pinnacle. FA: Greg Pritchard & James Falla, 1999 | 15m | |||
Arapiles Northern Group Mermaid Avenue | |||||
8 | Oompaloompa
Up streak and continue straight on. Start: About 1m left of 'The First Kiddy Climb' and a bit lower is a orange streak in the middle of black. Sorry kids, but these 2 routes are the complete pox left of the unclimbed grotty corner at the left end of the wall of Mermaid Ave FA: Jack Synnot, Mark Synnot, Zoe Synnot & Pete Canning, 2005 | 8m | |||
8 | The First Kiddy Climb
Not destined for greatness, but when you are only 8 and 10 years old putting up a route is exciting. Start: 1m left of the chimney/corner (unclimbed) FA: Zoe Synnot, Mark Synnot, Jack Synnot & Pete Canning, 2005 | 8m | |||
Arapiles Far North Werewolf Area | |||||
8 | Silver Bullet
The huge slabby corner which is essentially the approach ramp for 'Solar City' and 'Werewolf'. FA: John Chapman, 1976 | 40m | |||
Arapiles Mitre Rock South Mitre | |||||
8 | Twinkle Twinkle
Takes prominent ramp on the wall left of Guiding Light. Essentially provides an easier finish to He Certainly Is. Start in the gully uphill from The Bishop’s Crook.
FA: Keith Lockwood & Ray Lassman, 24 Sep 2015 | 50m | |||
Arapiles Mitre Rock North Mitre | |||||
8 | Pete Made Us Do It
Space filler. FA: Bendigo CAE Students, 1990 | 30m | |||
8 | ★ The Devil's Advocate
Climb short crack 1 metre right of Exodus to ledge then the chimney-gully on the left side of the Salem wall. FA: Chris Baxter & Andrew Smith, 1967 | 45m | |||
Arapiles Western Side Christmas Walls | |||||
8 | Ode To Mistletoe
Start 3m left of 'First Noel'. FA: Vince Waters, Noel Whiteside & Iain Sedgman., 2002 | 22m | |||
8 | Victoria C. Woodhull
Up the line to a left facing corner. Move left onto the slab and up avoiding the corner to finish up a crack/groove. Start: A few metres left of Ode to 'Mistletoe' and about 4m right of a large old conifer. FA: Iain Sedgman & Peter Canning., 2003 | 24m | |||
Arapiles Western Side Campbell's Kingdom | |||||
8 | Sporus
Up groove. At halfway ledge cross over gully and finish steeply up wide crack on left. Start: Start at groove on left side of face about 12-13 metres left of pinnacle. Inital S (don\'t get on 'Sundowner' by mistake). FA: Keith Lockwood & Murray Taylor, 1967 | 33m | |||
Arapiles Western Side Pop Wall | |||||
8 | Country Cousin
Rubbishy corner just left of chimney to ledge. Finish up face-crack. FA: Mike Stone, Chris Baxter & Francine Gilfedder, 1976 | 18m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Campground Cave Of Ghosts Cliffs | |||||
8 | Windy
| 35m | |||
8 | Spirits In The Sky
North and approximately 45m directly uphill from the Mini 'Castle Crag' is this wall. This corner climb is situated about 12m right of the large cave. Marked by white square. FA: Ian Welsby, Jane Welsby & Colin Mibus, 1985 | 18m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Campground Warden Wall | |||||
8 | ★★ Photographers Solo
Best access to top as well as an easy down climb. | 10m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Campground Doddery Rock | |||||
8 | Nose Hairs
Obvious chimney. Free hanging start, pull up into chimney. About halfway move out slightly right, up over protruding block. Move back on line to top. FA: Cameron Barrett & Leigh Coles, 2006 | 8m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Pohlner Track & Smith's Rd Area The Unnamed Cliff | |||||
8 | Mustang
| 57m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Mount Zero Pangaea Walls | |||||
8 | Hop Hop For Cheese
You would have to be extremely desperate. FA: André Geelen, 1991 | 10m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Mount Zero 4 Cornered Crag | |||||
8 | Future Legend
The scrubby second corner, R of Waiting. FA: Bill Andrews & Allan Hope, 1984 | 14m | |||
8 | Spaceball Ricochet
Past 'Lost Daze' and the unclimbed arete, on the small wall at the end of the cliff. Follow the obvious line. FA: Hope & Heather Phillips, 1988 | 12m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Mount Zero Mount Zero West Walls | |||||
8 | Baa
A face crack 5m L of the corner to a ledge below the overhang. Heavens knows what happens there. FA: Neil Barr & Peter Watling late., 1985 | 20m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Flat Rock Bellerophon Wall | |||||
8 | ★ Bellerophon
Something of an easy classic. The major corner to the ledge and rap rings. FA: Charles Gunst, Richard Rodd & Margaret Brookes, 1974 | 20m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Taipan Wall - North | |||||
8 | ★ Mission Over Tokyo Gunigalg Gully Connection
The easiest way to the top of Taipan if you want to pre-place gear or take photos from rap. It is also a great beginners' route with (mostly) excellent rock, big features and good pro. Start by squeezing up a chimney feature adjacent to the Peregrinator Boulder (3m L of the tricky starting crack of Mission Over Tokyo). Climb most of the first pitch of Mission Over Tokyo, eventually arriving at a DRBB. Step left across the void of the Gunigalg Gully chimney. Easily up the slabby left wall of this, into the boulder choked gully (DRBB). If you wish to reach the summit, scramble up the short right wall (poor protection). FA: Andy Pollitt?, 2000 | 50m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Lower Taipan Reprisal Wall | |||||
8 | Wasted Dreams
The first line on the cliff. Start: Start below and L of the line.
FA: Ceri Law, Bill Andrews & Allan Hope, 1990 | 40m, 2 | |||
Grampians North Grampians Summerday Valley Back Wall | |||||
8 | Seaweed Pepper
| 10m | |||
8 | ★ Sleepy Head
| 25m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Summerday Valley Hadrian's Wall | |||||
8 | Flying Scotsman
| 15m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Summerday Valley Norms Face | |||||
8 | Glennige
| 8m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Summerday Valley Bird Wall | |||||
8 | Desperate For A New Route
| 18m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Summerday Valley Left Wall | |||||
8 | ★ Mossie
Apparently only 1m R of 'Jupiter', but 29m longer and 5 grades easier... Start: Start 5m R of the R chimney. FA: Kevin Otten & Sarah Miriams, 1981 | 45m | |||
8 | ★ Any Day Now
Start: Start between the two chimneys.
FA: Ken & Marg Taylor, 1975 | 46m, 2 | |||
Grampians North Grampians Summerday Valley Noah's Ark | |||||
8 | All the Kings Men
| 12m | |||
8 | Code Nine
| 10m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Summerday Valley Scout Cliff | |||||
8 | Rock Lobster
| 15m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Summerday Valley Brownie Buttress | |||||
8 | Brownie Points
| 13m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Summerday Valley The Last Bastion | |||||
8 | Bastille
About 25m right of Viewfinder is a prominent chimney line. Up. FA: Bill Andrews, 1986 | 13m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Flying Blind Area | |||||
8 | ★★ Arrete
FA: Wayne Maher & Iain Sedgman, 1985 | 20m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Unknown Problems (to be sorted) | |||||
VB- - 10 | Unknown/Unticked - to delete
FA: Gav Portier/ Gilli Helbig | ||||
Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Clicke Wall Clicke Wall | |||||
8 | Attila Variant Start
Climbs the slab to the base of the scrubby chimney 5m right of 'Attila'. Traverse left on the rotten juggy wall into the corner and finish as for pitch one of 'Attila'. FA: Robyn Farrell, 1974 | 25m | |||
8 | Care Factor: Kelvin
Start from base of Piracy's corner (i.e. a few metres right of the start to 'Clicke Crack'. By the way, why did this most obvious of obvious routes need to be chisel-initialled in the first place?!) Head up diagonally right to blunt arete. Follow this to top. Just a climb - care factor? Rap off boulders, or take the standard death route descent down the wall beside 'Piracy'. FA: Ben Clayton & Nic Chapman, 1997 | 20m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Kindergarten Northern Caves | |||||
8 | Attila Variant Sart
| 25m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Pensioners Wall Area | |||||
8 | Ignition
Shocking pile of poo. The guidebook author walked past this three times before realizing it was actually a climb! Old school chimney for dwarfs. Start: East facing wall 12m right of 'Sedition'. Don't get it mixed up with the boulder problems surrounding it. FA: Jack Lewis & Peter Baker, 1992 | 16m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Bad Moon Rising Wall | |||||
8 | ★ Octohexarian
The central buckety black streak. Take slings for bollards. Start: Starts about 10m right of 'Bad Moon Rising' and 4m left of 'Headless Chickens'. FA: Unknown's, 1980 | 20m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Iskra Crag Western Crags Sunstroke Area | |||||
8 | Blue Light
The corner line L of the prominent chimney. | 18m | |||
8 | Coccyx Corner
The easy corner immediately R of the narrow chimney, moving L at the top for an easy exit. FA: 1985 | 18m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Iskra Crag Dolgoruki Wall and Three Tiers | |||||
8 | Rostislav
Start: 10m R of Dolgoruki Direct on the W facing part of the buttress. Flake crack to scoop, up corner to belay in through-cave. The other side of the cave is on the First Tier ledge, scramble off. FA: Ben Wright, Heather Murray & Geoff Brian, 2004 | 14m | |||
Grampians North Grampians NE Mt Zero Range Gog-Magog Crag | |||||
8 | Gogs Rib
| 52m | |||
Grampians North Grampians North-West Mt Difficult Range Mt Difficult Cliff | |||||
8 | Deception Gully
Worthless gully 6 metres left of 'Vee Line'. | 64m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Eastern Mt Difficult Range Lebanon Hezbollah Area | |||||
8 | Hezbollah variant finish
Follow the diagonal on P2 of Hezbollah for about 10m then head straight up the black streak finishing steeply up the head wall above the orange streaks. FA: Philip Armstrong, Peter Cody & Chris Armstrong, 2006 | 40m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Asses Ears Area Asses Ears Main Face | |||||
8 | Roger Over And Out
A fun juggy ramble sharing the same start as Picture Rail. 1. 45m Follow the right trending ramp flake to belay on the arete below the roof. 2. 5m Bail off right into the gully and exit up over the chockstones into the descent route. FFA: Wayne Maher & Rodger Palmer, 1980 | 50m, 2 | |||
Grampians North Grampians Asses Ears Area Cherub Wall | |||||
8 | Civil Dietitian
| 12m | |||
8 | Abercrombie
| 18m | |||
8 | Aldonza
| 20m | |||
8 | Rapist Morals
| 15m | |||
8 | Fumble Lips
| 40m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Asses Ears Area Wallaby Rocks | |||||
8 | Foo
| 30m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Asses Ears Area Joey Blocks | |||||
8 | (Unnamed)
Small crack opposite boulder 6 metres right of JfG | 10m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Asses Ears Area The Secret Crags The Secret Cliff | |||||
8 | Mediocre
| 28m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Asses Ears Area Brim Springs Main Crag | |||||
8 | Right Wing
| 42m | |||
8 | ★★★ Recessed Wall
| 52m | |||
8 | Recessed Wall Variant
| 40m | |||
8 | Dogleg Crack
| 45m | |||
Grampians The Black Range Black Ian's Rocks | |||||
8 | Settled out of Court
| 12m | |||
8 | Divorce Procedure
"A load of shit. Why bother?" The crack, left hand end of Press Gallery's buttress. FA: Peter Thomson & Kerry Danks, 1999 | 10m | |||
Grampians The Black Range Black Range Road Outcrop | |||||
8 | ★ No Third Dividend
| 14m | |||
Grampians The Black Range Black Sheba's Buttress | |||||
8 | Congo
The broken juggy line just right of the arête provides good climbing at the grade. FA: Jack Lewis, Jonathan Bryant & Ben Wright, 2002 | 11m | |||
Grampians The Black Range Closed Burrunj North | |||||
8 | Black Cat
| 33m | |||
8 | Steinmester'n
| 20m | |||
8 | Toenail Eater
| 40m |