Routes in Australia for selected grade

Line to left of right ward anchors up groove

Stand start on jug and move up the wall through jugs and topout.

1. Diagonally up through obvious wide crack

2. As for Zorro

3. Continue diagonally right through roof

Crack on the left of the face

Starts up Superfly then pointlessly traverses off left instead of finishing up the excellent original, staying about 1m below the roof.

A variant of Superfly, follow the original then go L through roof instead of direct.

The classic of the crag. Up the obvious crack and direct through the roof on good holds and excellent protection.

Corner leading to diagonal roof corner-crack. Climbs quite ok.

Climb the crack off "Happy Hooker" to the small roof and straight up.

Do the first two moves of Sachsenweg and finish up Lazy Lob.

Climb to first bolt two metres left of "Lazy Lob" and then straight up.

Climb The Sausage Boys and link it into the Nubile Nymph variant bolts.

Travese right around Cape Crusader pinnacle to a slighty overhanging wall straight up. With a clear drop into the water.

Originally 17 A3 when done by the Taylor patriarch, freed by the Taylor brothers (also at 17).

Nice hand crack, good as a stand alone, rap in pitch, or as a variant finish to Black Man's Country.

A variant p5 for HHCIB. From the pedestal below the second last bolt on pitch 4 take the direct corner/ ramp for 25m until able to traverse right and up to DBB. Continue up the final pitch of HHCIB. Gear full rack of cams to #3 with double # 0.75 and #1 and a good selection of wires

Start below and right of the enticing offwidth that splits the face directly across from the bivy cave. Climb easily up the thin crack then across left and up the the beginning of the offwidth. Make a few noises and shuffle up that thing.

Start L of orange wall directly beneath ^ shaped crack junction. Up slightly right over bulge & onwards to the top.

The obvious steep hand crack on the left in the main descent gully. Starts just above large drop to bottom of cliff, best to traverse 10m to base of crack system

1. 18m (18) Steep jamming up twin cracks to a ledge

2. 27m (18) Crux. Layback up the obvious flake then up and over ledges to finish

The overhanging, flared and shallow hand crack.

Towards the left hand end of the cliff, just left of a steep, narrow gully is a line with two ledges. Chimney, stem, mantle and cracks. A fun and varied climb.

Climbs the L end of Goldrush Wall, on excellent holds just R of a wide crack, to finish up a groove.

The short, arête down R of Goldrush, with poor protection, but great micro climb.

Climb the left hand crack looking at the NNE side of the Hot Cross Bun boulder. Some bits better than they look, some more awkward. Natural anchor and counterweight rap for descent.

Before rounding the nose of a buttress to reach the ''Pump'' and ''Honeysuckle Divine'' there is a crack a few metres L of the nose. The crack faces the North Col and peters out after about 25 metres.

1. 25m. Up crack which is much steeper and more sustained than it looks. Some holds are hollow sounding. Good value.

2. 20m. Easier ground to the top.

On the buttress in front of face. First pitch excellent rock and gear, 2nd pitch not so good. Find lowest major roofs on front (N) side of Cox's Castle. Just L of roof is attractive corner. Possibly cairned.

1. 40m. Line to good ledge.

2. 60m. Easy, with alternatives possible. L up juggy crack for 4m or so. Wander up towards big corner high above. Up corner to steep section with slightly schist-y rock. R for 3m, then up easily. Finish up R-facing corner.

To descend, abseil 15m to top of arches (it's a dangerous grade 15 downclimb otherwise). Then sidle R to top of the Arches (the 50m wall below Solomon’s Sanctuary) and descend by 50m abseil.

Start at cairn immediately R of (Unnamed 3). Veer up R on overhanging arête, then face to ledge. Face-crack to next ledge and corner

Magnificently overhanging. More awkward than technical. Sustained. Start: The obvious big overhanging line under the nose of the Lions Head, seen clearly when approaching the North Col from Tahune. Scramble up from the North Col across and up into the big cave. Good nut belay on L, out of stonefall line.

1. 30m. Up to the big triangular block. Chimney out under it and up on to loose blocks. Bridge up to obvious traverse R . Across on shattered rock then hand traverse line to sharp nose. Up the line to top. (Double rope useful.)

By no means a thorough description. For further information buy a guidebook. No idea about pitch lengths. This route eats hexes. Otherwise single rack from smallest c-3's to #3, with double #1 and double #2 for pitches 4 and 5. Depart hikers track to summit on faint trail leading to base of walls, head over spur and down across big wall all the way to loose scree chute, up this with care, under detached pinnacle at top, across with care until under right leaning ramp creating left facing corner. Approx 1.5hr approach from Tahune hut. The lines infamous traverse pitch can be spied from here as the piece of rock between two respective crack systems.

1. Either rope up or up gradually unroped through first two pitches of blocks and vegetation veering slightly right through easiest terrain.

2. Onto large terrace then back left to base of corner. Build belay. Rope up.

3. Engaging wet pitch 3 up to big ledge with some bail tat on a block.

4. Pitch 4 - Up crack, cruxy, and over top out of sight on very smooth sloping smears on right. Would need three or more #2 s to link into next pitch.

5. Continue next pitch (5) up same crack with better feet, persist with crack, good #3 in very top before an easy scramble up small cleft, belay gear high up in back, cordelette handy.

6. Pitch (6) - Direct up crack or step right up arette with steep pulls on big holds with good gear and huge exposure, onwards up to big ledge.

7. Pitch (7) basically a solo ..lean out left, place small gear and begin traverse. Not much good gear, extend everything. Face climb delicately and keep hanging on. Eventually some good placements at base of corner, use them all and belay on small ledge on left, rather than going up into wet chimney for big gear, as the hanging belay is very uncomfortable and forces your leader straight up hard steep crack rather than easy out right as is described in guide.

8. Pitch (8) - up to corner, then over to unprotected easy climbing a few meters right, then back left again and up to good ledge.

9. Pitch (9) Up steepening crack then left onto small gear belay in back of exposed sloping ledge, for good belay.

10. Pitch (10) - up loosening rock through steep crystalline choss jugs and strenuous runout, into crack then up then all the way to top weaving left around steep stuff, extending everything (36m), a #4 could be useful towards end of pitch however terrain is easy and rock quality is superb. This last pitch passes a few opportunities for belays however by now you probably want to topout. Stay roped up and hike 40m up hill to variety of belay options. Walk to summit.

1. 45m 17. Start as for Sydney Route Direct Start but go up L. 2. 35m. As for SR. Scramble over boulders to R, then ramp behind block. 3. 25m 15. Up out of chimney, then vegetated ramp to top. Go up and trend slightly R. Belay on ledge which slopes up R at top. 4. 35m 18. Up from belay to runner - make it a good one, it may be your last. Traverse up R to crack, then up R of detached pillar and belay behind this. (Some old gear may be in evidence here.) 5. 30m 14. Directly across L on good traverse. Up to chimney. Belay above blocks perched in cracks. 6-9. As for SR except start pitch six a little higher. 10. 50m 11. Angle up L of good holds into chimney, then up to "landing pad". 11. 30m 14. Chimney, heading R into other chimneys. Continue to mega-stance. 12. 50m 8. Step out on L wall. After a few moves stand up and run across pasture. Take L gully to top. 13. Wander up gully to summit.

An alternative to pitch 2 on the original which avoids the hardly protectable crux traverse in pitch 2. Rejoins original route at start of pitch 3. From belay at start of pitch two, up flake and over bulge. Follow the flake til it ends and place thin hands sized cams, then downclimb for 2m and traverse right for 3m on flat holds and up to just above in line with the cams, then continue up cracks and flakes and traverse back left to bush platform and the start of pitch 3.

Just right of shes lump.

Interesting climbing with some dodgy gear

Right trending splitter on the landward side of the boulder. single carrot bolt belay

Offwidth splitter to cave, then short man-eating diagonal squeeze left. The offwidth can be protected (and climbed!) reasonably using thin secondary cracks, but the squeeze will be a little spicy for leaders too big to fit inside. Wires and Cams from .2 to #4. Optional 5 and 6

2x Carrots, follows quartz dyke 2m left of Gravel Road and traverses right to a second dyke.

Start in middle of the face and climb up overlaps to corner crack. Up onto slab with small nuts and boldly step right over slab finishing through scoop to DBB.

Start at the lower tier and climb through positive flakes and top out up the slab

Takes the right arete and face of the skull before traversing left and turning onto the slab for a runout finish. Descent via rap off sheaoak in a gully.