Routes in Australia for selected grade

Start: Start below and R of the corner, about 8m right of 'Blank Frank'. A devious approach leads to the attractive shallow corner halfway up toward the right side of the wall. Recently retro-bolted with permission of FA. 2-U belay on terrace.

Pointless and dangerous. Take all cams.

Start: Start at the foot of pitch 2 of 'The Walltower Castle'.

We've done this variation a couple of times over the last few years but was waiting until we could add a bolt and clean it up a bit. I much prefer this variation to the original desperate bouldery grade 22 crux. We also added a bolt to the belay at the top of this pitch to replace the (now) crappy-looking carrot. If you do The Navigator via this pitch it makes the whole climb grade 21. It starts up the short bottomless orange L-facing corner-crack about 2.5m L of the rap / belay rings and about 6m R of the original cairned start on the ledge. After the corner continue up the clean grey slab (drifting slightly L) for about 12m to the steepening and a bolt. Tricky moves gain the flakes as for the original pitch. Note that this pitch is 32m long and will require a 70m rope if you wish to lower or rap off it.

This long sustained adventure is a classic at the grade. Starts as for the 'The Great Foaming Expresso Machine', which is in the middle of the Petite Fleur Face, L of its central green moss streak. Take a full trad rack (plus double cams) and a bunch of slings. The first and third pitches are sport and don't require trad gear. Every belay is U-bolted. You can climb to the top of the third pitch using a single 60m+ rope (two raps will get you to the ground from here) but you will need double ropes to complete the rest of the route. You'll also need double ropes for the rap descent. The rap descent chains are situated just 15m R of the finish of the climb. This route utilises 'The Great Foaming Expresso Machine' and parts of 'Sluice' and Gigi's Climb.

1. 15m (19) The Great Foaming Expresso Machine is climbed past three rings to a ledge. Two U-bolt belay.

2. 30m (19) Either climb up immediately L of the belay U-bolts (awkward) or, alternatively, step R (much easier) to move left onto the grey slabby wall. Pass a low bolt, then continue up the brushed streak past a second bolt (R-hand streak is Politics of Plenty 18) to move R to a good stance and two U-bolt belay.

3. 15m (19) Slab up the R side of the brushed streak, past four bolts to a good stance under the roof and two U-bolt belay.

4. 30m (19) Traverse 5m R into corner of Sluice. Keep moving R across the wall to gain the big jugs on the arete ('Gigis Climb'). Ascend the arete and thin crack until it runs out (small wires). A couple of awkward moves leads to a bolt. Move on up the gray slab above. A medium / large cam with a long sling protects the friction traverse R ('Sluice') for 4m, then up a short easy crack to a superb belay stance in the alcove. Two U-bolt belay.

5. 15m (19) Up a few moves into the base of the prominent right-curving flake-line. Awkward moves L past a bolt then up easily to a good ledge.

This route utilises 'The Great Foaming Expresso Machine' and parts of 'Sluice' and 'Gigis Climb'.

An excellent and sustained outing offering well-protected slab and face climbing up the middle of the highest section of the wall. The 21 year-old carrots on the first pitch were recently replaced with glue-ins.

Start: Scramble R up the diagonal ramp near the R side of the Green Wall and back L (best to rope up) to the base of a smooth water runnel (the direct start is grade 22).

1. 30m (19) Bridge delicately up the obvious water-groove (mainly on its L side), past six glue-in P-bolts and a few small to medium cams. Move up L to belay/rappel rings.

2. 30m (20) Up R'wards on jugs, then up past a bolt on the smooth wall. Continue straight on up to the top of the big flake crack. Follow the sustained clean wall past four bolts to the belay/rappel rings below the fifth pitch of The Shining Path. Note that this pitch crosses the old route Drifting and a bolt was placed within reach (permission from the first ascentionist) and does not affect Drifting in any way.

3. 15m (19) The last pitch of The Shining Path.

The first pitch was originally climbed (as two very short pitches) and named Spillway by Gary Kerkin and Michael Stone in 1966, then freed by John Chapman in 1975. The route as described was climbed by Glenn Tempest and Karen Tempest when they added the second pitch in 2024.

Great climbing including 'Spillway' and the best bit of 'Sluice', leading straight up to the apex in the huge overhangs. Take large cams.

Start: Start as for 'Spillway'.

1. 33m (18) Up Spillway's slabby groove with 6 bolts and some cams until the groove ends at a bush, move L to belay.

2. 30m (19) Follow the line up diagonally L to the overhang. Climb the flake overhang and up to ledge on R.

3. 25m (19) Straight up the line, directly through the overhang and continue up the overhanging corner in a sensational situation.

A spectacular finish that was done to finish the Sluice/Spillway combination but would be more appropriate as a finish to 'Drifting'.

Starting up 'Sluice' , find your way to the crux and go boldly out right through the exciting obvious traverse. Bomber gear, Grand exposure. Climb all the way into 'Green Rope Berets' and top out to belay off Large boulder. Double ropes ideal.

Follow the enormous pockets edges & slopers to a high finish.

Sit start on the slot.

2m R of PCT.

Left arete of the Tiger boulder left of Project #43 in the Grampians bouldering guide, starting off the ledge and using jugs to reach a thinner finish right at the top. 5m highball with a 7m drop zone.

Right rising traverse on low prow boulder to the right of Darjeeling Express

Sit Start the bottom right side of the 'Galaxy Vivisection' boulder. Follow the flake to a shared topout.

An attractive climb with an intimidating finish. Usually done in a single pitch.

Start on the elevated ledge, just L of the boulder, at the base of the nice face crack in the middle of the grey slab.

1. 30m (18) Up finger crack to overhang, dangle around then up slabby wall to belay below headwall.

2. 10m (20) Boldly up faint scoops on headwall (small shallow wires).

This ground-up effort felt all the more intrepid for being established in single-digit temperatures with no fewer than three hailstorms on the way. It's the best moderate route down this end of the wall.

Start 2m R of Tokyo Rose (Tokyo Connection), and 2m L of Sordid Orchids, on the elevated ledge.

1. 25m (21) Thin orange corner then diagonally up L with feet dropping into TR for a move or two. Steeply over bulge and up the short orange flake on the R to gain slab. SHB below white bulge.

2. 15m (20) Move R over white bulge to ledge. Leftward arcing thin orange corner to the intermittent headwall crack 4m R of Atomic Tadpole's finish.

Despite the good climbing, the dangerous batman start off a jammed knot is likely to discourage people. It's not clear whether the first ascent used the batman technique or abseiled in to a hanging belay 5m above the deck! Maybe the tatty slings should go and people should place a hook from a long stick and batman up to it.

Start: Start about 20m L of 'Slap and Tickle'.

Start as for Zeus, but after 4m take the shallow orange corner 2m L. Straight through overhangs, then move R at final roof to finish up Zeus. Good climbing, with spaced but adequate pro.

Start as for Black Swan and either clip its first bolt or go for the Purity and place gear the whole way. Head up trending left following great holds and gear to top out and lower off the anchors of Black Swan.

Tricky warm up (or testpiece) starting from the big down-sloping 'jug' and climbing up via an obvious slopey pocket to the big finish break.

Climb the blank face on horizontals (small SLCD), then finish up juggy crack.

Start: Start 20m left of 'Bass Rush' on short grey face.

Huge jugs. Now fully bolted!

Nice laybacky flakes up bulging wall 3m right of 'Nipper'. Could be a soft touch for the grade, but it's a bit pumpy for a lingering leader.

"Nice climbing, despite its humble appearance", Noddy. The only humble thing on this climb will be you if you take it lightly. The first climb on the wall. Take a few slings for the headwall. Towards right end of wall is a long roof-line. Start left of the left end of roof in a grove of native pines about 3m right of 'Lord Jim'. Step off long, skinny boulder and follow your nose up the wall past a loose FH to an obvious slot with a tuft of reedy grass 2/3rds of the way up the wall. Straight up steeply to finish.

It's the final step that counts. Start at extreme R end of wall, at easy L-facing corner. Up corner to roof and traverse L for miles until roof is only 1m wide and crossable. Up over roof and R-wards to finish.

Quite popular.

Start: Start at the juggy crack R of BN.

The face to a slight bulge.

Start: Start between TCC and 'Tootsie'.

The crack, hardest down low.

Start: Start just L of UtA.

The crack.

Start: Start just L of TW.

The crack 1m L of MK.

Steep weakness 2m L of HH.

Thin line 1m R of RT, trend R to finish just L of TRatBB.

Start: Start in the descent chimney a few metres L of W.

The description is reproduced verbatim because it doesn't match anything visible in the topo. Maybe it makes more sense when walking along the base...if you can be bothered.

Start: "Start from the large block below the orange slab capped by a roof."

Looks quite good.

Start: Start 5 metres left of 'Pancake' on top of a small boulder that leans against the wall.

Fairly short and the encroaching tree branches would be distracting.

Takes the arete just right of where the hole comes through the cliff on the north-east side.

A bouldery start gives way to an easier conclusion.

Start: Start 3m R of 'Flake of Fear'.

Step off the block and up to the curving flake and a nice finish.

Start: Start on the left end of a large block about 10m R of 'Snow White'.

It's not often that HB has needed this many people to tow him up such an insignificant route...

Start: Start 2m L of 'Much Ado About Nothing'.

Up the very thin face crack and the wall continuation.

Start: Left of Living... is an obvious chimney. Start just R of this.

A traverse.

Start: Start 4m R of 'Red Alert'.

1. 17m (19) Up until 'Red Alert' fizzles out, then go left, across 'Hit and Run' at the cave, then up 'Bowler' to a belay.

2. 15m (19) Move down then L and slightly down along obvious hand traverse to the arete. Finish up a crack 1m L of arete.

3m right of Signs of Life is a deep gully/chimney feature. Start up the left side of this, step up onto the block, climb up to small roof, handhold on right corner. Reach up to jugs then layback up the steep shallow corner, continue on up.

Just left of the right arête of the cradle face. A bulging seam.

This was originally graded 17 as the FA was quite straight-forward on hand jams. Repeats found it quite a bit harder, maybe because they were laybacking?

Originally graded 17 (as was Chocolate Frog), so the grade has been bumped up by the same amount. Could someone please repeat both in the same day and provide feedback?! It is also believed that Peter Stebbins may have done a direct start into this line past a bolt, at grade 19. Confirmation of this would also be appreciated.

This is the direct start with BR into Chocolate Frog done with Andrew Stevens

Traverse left on large pockets. Follow line of pockets down around the arete and corner (reversible at the same grade).

Up prominent 'mini' corner via finger lock.

Why did Kevin bother with this pathetic excuse for a bolted boulder problem? One crap bolt also scars what could have been an all trad crag.

Start: Towards the far left end of the cliff is an alcove with a large sandy boulder. This is the left leaning line marked with white paint.

Thrutch fest!

Start: The right hand of the two corners.

Short bouldery start which eases considerably in the upper half.

Start: Starts around 6m right of 'Primed'.

A bit contrived. Grade may vary according to exact line taken.

Start: Start 1m right of 'Bolt Action Directe' at thin right-leading crack.

Popular but awkward climbing.

Start: Start 5m L of 'The Flying Emu'.

This is one of the easiest sport routes in the 'Grampians' to be partially protected from rain.

Start: Starts below the overhang three metres left of the large chimney chasm to the left of Float Like A 'Butterfly'.

A landmark stunning layback.

Start: This left facing ultra wide corner crack is hard to miss.

Sit start with left hand on square positive sidepull (I presume this problem was first done long ago).

Sit stat with a sidepull/undercling and climb straight up the face to top out.

Stand start on the left of slab. Follow the flake to the top.

Start: Sit start on well chalked jug up to gaston hold pushing over the edge.

Start of the far right end, traverse to left using pockets and grooves for hand holds.

(Not the edge at the top) Good for foothold practice.

'Hands-free' Run very fast across the top of Andersens Consulting Boulder, kick off from adjoining rock and wall-run, Matrix-style, horizontally across the face of Peter Parker before leaping back to main boulder.

Start at right end of the boulder following the flake up to the top.

Some parts of flakes look really thin.

Stand start and climb the majestic grey and orange face. A worthwhile outing.

Stand start on a jug at the bottom of the crack and follow it to the top.

Sit start with a side pull on the large, juggy flake.

Sit start with a side pull on the large, juggy flake.

Sit start on the left side of the low juggy break. Make a big move to the slopey pocket and top out up big holds.

Sit start on the right side of the low break and climb up the line of jugs.

Sit start on input flakes just right of Bad Call. Move up left to slopey features and up on jugs.

Start on the jugs low on the break then up over the slopey features.

Wonderful wall climbing with a fair bit of air below your feet on several sections. Very Blue Mountains.

Start: Start 5m left of 'Giblets' as a short flake/corner.