Routes in Australia for selected grade

Starts down in the pit below Bat in A Hole. Hard pocket pulling through roof.

Line of ringbolts starting 2m left of 'The Big Payback'. Finishes up 'On My Own'.

From the ledge keep going up wall above. Very bouldery!

New wave testpiece. Excellent sustained face climbing. 7 bolts to fixed biner lower off. The resident lunch-stealing critter is actually a bandicoot, not a bilby!

TG direct finish. Might be 28

A subtle jigsaw of movement.

A 27 slab.

Just your regular crazy gramps stone.

10m left of 'Murder Psalm' is a flake crack which leads to a beautiful slab. Originally bolted by Roland Foster.

Seeps like a waterfall, except during long dry spells. Great moves though.

Links DLS into VG

Start as dope man.... punch left at ceiling campussing on pockets.

aka The Dopeman 'Extension'. An excellent line across a prominent feature. A modern classic that was somehow overlooked in the first VD Land onslaught.

Start: Start on ledge at finish of 'The Dope Man'.

Woody type problem up a very steep wall. Sit-start right of 'Ground Zero' and finish at the twin pockets. If you link this back into the finish of 'Ground Zero' you get 'A Long Way From Home' (V7/8)

Excellent climbing on immaculate rock.

Start: 1m left of Gotham City. The subtle weakness on the steep orange wall between Batman and Robin and Gotham City.

On the far right side of the chossy cave is a very obvious overhanging finger sandy crack. Aid this using cams to size #1 and some birdbeaks for the top. Might go free at grade 25? Rap off shitty sling.

This now goes free at grade 27, will become super classic trad crack test price. Probably the best true finger crack in the grampians.

Gear 0.1 to 0.5 bd x4

The line left of Centrifugal Force a former project of Simon Young completed by another Simon.

Direct start through scoops of afterworld past ringbolts. Joins afterworld for last few bolts.

Rarely repeated. A long route with a sting in the tail. Climb past BR and broken rock into scoop, then very bouldery move left across cave. At sixth ring bolt go right and direct up face past limestone like large pocket and micro edges through bulge. 9 RBs and chain lower off.

This searing cracked arete is the best line at Asses Ear. Unfortunately hard trad routes are remarkably unfashionable and this has had minimal if any repeats. Start as for Triptych but instead of bailing off right at 15m keep climbing the crack direct. The crack fades and difficulty escalates at the top.

The dimpled wall which used to have old carrots. A bouldery start guards the fun face climbing above.

Slabby seam with offset edges on far left end of cliff. Shallow corners 15m left of Whitebait. Three eye-bolts. Crack above. Advisable to stick clip the first BR. Rapchains.

Thin offset seam with ringbolts. This looks like a massive sandbag. Prepare to be humbled!

Steep and sustained. An early HB endurofest.

Start: Some way left of 'Manic Depressive' at the left end of the camping cave

BRs 10m right of AP, eventually joins AP

THE line through the first major cave (which is not the camping cave). Funky, awesome, full body workout. Be wary of the old carrots. After the start, there is plenty of good gear. Rap station above lip.

Sustained thin face climbing on immaculate rock.

**6th bolt tightened with wrench 24/11/2018 - keep an eye on it though.

Start: About 3m right of Blimp are some tiny holds beside 2 RB’s.

1. 26m (28) Originally led as one mega pitch but perhaps better now as 2? Up thin face past many FH past some unusual features, R to corner (HDBB)

2. 20m (26) Thin wall (PR) then L to cracked overhang. Past this to hanging corner (2 BR) to finish past old PR on right.

Just right of the tree in the middle of the face. From the edge and side pull, climb the seam above.

Start on obvious chalked rail (half a metre right of Ceramics) and work your way up the arête to a committing few moves up high.

Sit start on left hand arete (be careful of the edge now) traversing right using the lowest holds before finishing up First Blood.

https://www.instagram.com/p/C6A0yY2SpA-/

From the same start as Bath Shark, climb left and up to a hard mantel.

The fantastic short ripple-textured wall on the uphill face of the boulder, far right hand side. Start with the crimps at face height and campus until you can put your feet somewhere useful before topping out right. This is also the easiest way off the Juju Boulder as its not far to jump to the ground from the upper holds of Trippa Snippa.

Excellent. Sit-start on right side of boulder matched on good sloper. Traverse leftward on jugs into double gaston. Make hard moves on good crimps and finish as for "Railup" (V4).

This line traverses the whole face and adds a challenging undercling section which requires good footwork to succeed. Start as for "Crimp Rail", traversing leftward to finish up "Swarm Up" (V2).

Start Low on Slopers at Aréte trend left then Dyno for the lip

Start with left hand under triangle feature and right hand on good rail to the right. Move left and finish up "Beige is all the rage."

Starting holds are a bit high so may need to stack pads or jump start to establish if shorter. When established, the starting holds feel like jugs 👌

📹 Bermuda

For an extra challenge, climb Bermuda without feet. Fun flowy campus finishing on a big move to the last jug. Feet on is okay to get undercling over the lip and top out. Adds a Vee point in difficulty.

📹 Bermuda Campus

Sit start down left on side pulls.

Climb the back left arête of the Slapper's Arête boulder. Starting lowest left hand side pull and slopey right hand sidepull.

The right hand groove.

Sit start and make a huge rockover to get the obvious crimp. Finish more easily. All about the timing and positioning.

The obvious Arapilesean sleazefest through the cave.

Beautiful line taking the centre of the perfect orange wall. Delicate, slippery face climbing. Much harder if you’re short. Probably classic

Immaculately desperate corner crack with a powerful start. Begins from large shelf down low (climbers right). Up bouldery start and technical layback past bolt (using the slab on the left takes away a grade) continue up thin crack with technical feet and increasinly fleeting hands to the top. Plenty of bomber gear on solid rock. would strongly advise stick clipping the bolt.

Busts left after bouldery start on Slam Dunk. Sustained!!

Shallow, bulging groove 5m R of Purple Haze.

A much nicer start that connects into the best bits of 'Reclusive Genius'. Start far left near fire pit on jugs (pockets etc), move into lip on slopes and jugs, traverse R via some hard moves into the jugs on Reclusive Genius and up as per that.

Start in cave, on good pocket and jug, move up into the razor sharp crimps and move to slopey nothing's to gain jugs.

Mantle madness. Start on dishes and climb up through bloc cave and reach for lip. Grovel and beg your way over the top. FA involved swear words for aid.

Needs a 60m rope!!!!!

Start: Start as for AP

1. 22 - 30m Climb Archimedes' Principle to belay of first pitch then continue along break to Pythagoras' Theorem. Either belay in corner or climb down to Pythagoras' Theorem first pitch ledge. 1 bolt

2. 27 - 50m Continue along obvious traverse line from Pythagoras' Theorem with mostly good holds but poor feet, all the way out to join Vegie Maths at the head wall (2nd last bolt of that route) and follow this to the top. 7 bolts

Adam Demmert and John Schmit climbed pitch 1 in 2009. The Adam and Malcolm did the second in 2014

Straightens out SC. Starts up SC, finishes up headwall of KP project.

Crazy jump to start or 26 if you batman to first jug. Awesome either way.

Up on upper tier. Through water streak on beautiful orange face. Has chain on third bolt.

Super exposed upside-down roof-arête.

Roof right of pitch 2 of 'A Space Odyssey'.

Steep hanging corner in prow on flawless red stone. Drop the clutch! 3 bolts then trad.

Link Krankandangle into Path of Yin via low bolt.

Fantastic climbing on an outrageous feature. Batman to 4th bolt.

Another superb line. The best 27 in the 'Grampians' - although most think its actually 28!

Start: Start about 8m R of After Midnight.

Start up 'Sullivan Street' then bust out left and up bulging wall above. #2 Camalot can be placed after last bolt to protect runout finish. Needs rebolting!

THE line of the cave. Power Endurance.

As for blind man with a pistol until headwall. Follow crazy dihedral left to a classic power endurance crux.

Start as first pitch of CF. Traverse left off the ledge and weave up the awesome orange face. Classic Pumping.

Start up the orange flake line on the right hand side of the cliff. The first pitch is tenuous and a little goey. The 2nd pitch goes directly up the beautiful black streak littered with small quartz dykes.

Left of Cruising. Sit start at good flake and dyno to jugs, mantle up and commit to the thin and exciting top out. May need a brush up high.

Watch out for skating cams and feet on the slick rock.

Extension of A Bolt Too Far

Long admired - now climbed! The u-bolted flared shiny orange crack on the west face of the Northern Pinnacle about 5m right of 'Hamstrung'. Brutal fingerlocks to start then up short reachy corner. Campus right along slick break to final crimpy face finish. Sustained. 6 bolts and lower-off.

Rising techincal traverse and crimpy face out left from 'Fat Fingered Freak'. From FFFs 2nd bolt head hard left on shallow slots to big break. Shake, then crimp like a fiend to next big break. Finish up further thin stuff to lower-off. 4th bolt is hard to clip without extension.

Arapiles like face you see on the left when entering crag x. Located adjacent to Red Rocks, the key is to access from other side of creek via cairns. Climb up gully to reach base of route. Bridge initial blankness. Pumpy!

Traverse the "ledge" to the final grey streak. Up this to rest in PNtT before a bouldery finale up and right on scoopy Taipan rock.

The awesome steep red wall above the ledge on PNtT. Start up that route (3 camalot and small cams and wires) to ledge. Build an anchor and extend to over lip of ledge for rope drag. (Double length sling). A small camalot (0.3/0.4) protects clipping the first bolt (placed high to not impact PNtT). Very pumpy, steep climbing on jugs leads to a powerful finale on immaculate rock. A 1 camalot can be placed between the last bolt and the double ring bolt lower off. A 60m rope can be used to climb in a pitch and lower to the ground.

Traverse L) out of Miggerra

Starts a few meters right of Poison Bait. Great athletic roof climbing.

Direct finish to malcolms project. Look for the anchor!

Mega line right through the guts of the wall with a bold right leading finish. The reachy start still stumps Malcolm. He can do the rest at 26...

Splitter steep finger crack on the right side of 'The Prow'.

Start up 'The Honeymoon is Over' then clip a bolt way out R. Swing R to the nose and up the wall past a PR.

Sit start on the left arete, traverse right on pockets then up on massive jugs (or drop off).