The Orco Valley (Valle dell' Orco) is located in the Gran Paradiso National Park, which is situated to the north of Turin and west of Milan. This valley is famous for its gneiss crack climbing, which is said to be the best in the Western European Alps.
The epic big walls of Sergent, Caporal and the Torre di Aimonin provide long multi-pitch Trad routes, which can accessed with minimal walk-ins. The style of climbing involves plenty of splitter cracks, delicate slabs and some excellent face climbs across a wide range of grades. Generally the routes are well protected using trad gear such as cams and nuts, though the majority of the delays are bolted. Hence it is easy to retreat from routes if the weather closes in.
There are also many single pitch sport routes that line both sides of the valley around the villages of Ceresole Reale, Locana, and Sparone. This makes it easy to find the sun or shade depending upon the time of the year. The bouldering scene is growing as there are many boulders that litter the valley floor, particularly around the main campsite.
The Orco valley climbing begins from the town of Sparone (~550m elevation), and continues all the way up the valley as far as Colle del Nivolet (~2641).
The main areas are:
Locana
Sparone
Camping La Peschera
Camping Casa Bianca
Camping Piccolo Paradiso
Renowned for its incredible crack systems, there is a predominantly clean climbing ethic in Valle Orco.
Even so, there are a fair number of sport/bolted climbs in the valley. Talk to local climbers/guides before considering putting in bolts, bolts are permanent.
Some classics crack climbs, bolted in mania of sport climbing in the 80's/90's, have since had their bolts removed.
Climbing has been happening in Valle Orco since the early 1970's.
First time here?
theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...» go exploring, » learn more or » ask us a questionAuthor(s): P. Seimandi
Date: 2020
100 ausgewählten Rissklettereien von komplett durchgebohrt bis zu komplett selbst abzusichern - von 6 m bis hin zu 160 m.
Author(s): P. Seimandi
Date: 2020
ISBN: 9788894526516
A selective guidebook describing over 100 of the best crack climbs in the Orco Valley ranging in difficulty from F4c through to F8b, and from 6m to 160m long.
Author(s): M. Oviglia
Date: 2010
This climbing guide describes climbing gardens close to the valley as well as the well-known alpine walls of the Sergent, Caporal and at the Colle del Nivolet.
Impressioni di settembre 6b - PXL_20230907_080141185.jpg
Falesia dell'Etica - IMG_20230227_142156.jpg
Pietra Filosofale - IMG_0719.jpg
Falesia dell'Etica - IMG_20230227_141848.jpg
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