Routes in Australia for selected grade

Start left and right in large pockets. Punch up to sloper and stand on small crystal to crimp, top out.

Start on the right side of the cave at good left and split pockets for right. Traverse left along the roof via edges and pockets to finish as for De-Fib.

The big foot ledge is out until you reach the De-Fib start holds.

Electric pergolas into Generator

Tops out the same as 'Hot Rats (top out)'.

Starting at slopey break. traverse below the lip of the roof on well formed pockets and crimp high on lip. Finish at pocket jug a few moves after the two finger pocket.

Start matched at the Hueco as for Hot Rats. Up to the big jug but send it up and left. Top moves are classic and tricky. Finish at the break 3/4 way up. Drops off.

Start at big break right of the arete, and head directly up. through a left hand mono, and a right hand small crimp, ultimately to a mega jug. Top out as per arete problems

Sit start at the arete. Directly up the scoop. Hold has broken now, slightly harder.

Sit start on the arete, traverse right down to the horn then climb Goldie Horn. Pumpy.

Goldie Horn without the crimps. Straight to the pocket/dish.

Start as Goldie Horn head left to finish up Gold Rush.

Located on your right as you're walking up the hill. An obvious overhanging prow bloc that looks like its leaning on a tree. Sit start at the back of the little cavelet on the obvious jug. Make some tension moves to head out left and around the lip on small edges to a tricky mantle.

Start matched on brain hold shared with SSSS, move left using rail and jug into crack. Finish same as Shai-Hulud.

Punch from the sit start up to the two slopers. Take a grade off without the sit start. Top out.

Sit start at the shallow rail, crimp on the right, crimps on top, mantle top out.

Stand start on the crimps and mantle over the top slopers.

Start on the big side pull and head up over the lip to the right.

Start on the big obvious jug and jump straight to the hold over the lip. Avoid holds in between.

Squat start on the pockets and use a few small crimps and fight to the top.

Absolute bloody classic. Sit start on the right side of the boulder. Use the arete and the face.

Use the left arete and any tiny crimps on the face. Feet are bloody terrible. Makes for a tough slab climb.

Burly sit start off RH dish and LH sidepull leading into Big Yellow Joint.

An utterly desperate wall climb on tiny holds. Strong candidate for sandbag of the millenium, originally graded 26, but latest talks have it at 28/29

Start: 4m right of 'Gidget Verdon'.

No hands walk up the slab to some big moves towards the obvious jug and up to a tough mantle

Grab the holds at the base of the feature in the middle of the overhang and good luck! Explosive fun.

Right arete of freestanding block. Fantastic.

Up the arete over the fallen block.

Hard slabbing in the middle.

Crag Classic! Start on a jug at the back wall and move out the roof, along the sloping shelf and powerfully into the broken corner before heading left and straight up the groove to a thought provoking top-out.

Z Swan

Standing start, straight into the back breaking press.

Start on the shelf low and just right of the corner and make powerful move straight up to gain a good hold before taversing left and finishing up either 'Love Gun' or Stringybark. Pumpy and hard for the grade.

Start as for bucks party. Move right through roof and up headwall. Knee pad or tee shirt for the right knee is recommended.. very good and very hard.. the right start is the "To Suit" project

Obvious finger crack, rap rings over the lip.

A DF to expectorant or start up anticoagulant, the pinch out right is on (rebolted 2008)

This one is for the hard nuts,it was once the hardest trad line in shire, and possibly NSW. Start: Below the thin seam, tenuous moves up the groove to lower off chain at half height or easily to top up anything nearby. Take small gear.

Start as for Slap My Blues Away and at the anchors pull the lip and begin to trend slightly left. (to avoid drag while getting lowered off and working the route unclip last bolt before the anchors)

(link up) Endurance Test Piece! Start as for Slap My Blues Away and instead of pulling the lip keep traversing the entire length of the flake, finish up Family Ties. Long draws and slings help for rope drag.

Sit start as for Cool and straight up 45 degree wall, Jugs out R are off.

Marcus Lim

Chris Beers

Alternative Beta to the Dyno: Mauricio Chino

One of the hardest routes in the Shire and appears to have thwarted every attempt at a repeat. Start as for LB, continue on a direct line to the top (if you can). There has been two variant methods that have been done - (26) FA CT ignore third bolt and climb left to good jug on Lean Beef Now DYNO up and right to join back into line. There is also a (25) option. Climb to third RB, then traverse right to arete (left side of Offalwdith). Up a few moves then traverse back left (reachy) into line. Top out finish no anchors . Bolted from mixed trad by LW.

Sit start below the hole. Dyno from the hole to the sidepull out to the right.

Joe Faulkner

bigboibeta

Sit start on sidepull/undercling. Big moves straight up to top out.

Marcus Lim

Sit start 2 metres right of Triple Bypass, and off the undercling, use the pocket to gain the break. Then traverse left to finish up triple bypass.

Stephen Rawls

Start As You Can't Change History - instead of going around to ramp, reverse the shoulder move of Wish You Were Here and link into The Brown Ghost. Bicep Bricker!

Sit start at left of cave. Head straight out to the face and then head right to finish up the ramp. Back wall/ledge is in.

Stephen Rawls Peter

Start on broken shelf in far right of cave.Traverse left along slopers and through broken corner. Continue straight out the centre of the cave to top out.

Same start as Big red traverse along slopers into broken corner and out the roof. Exit right to top out.

Start on the far left of cave 1 and traverse around to toilet sprayed on the rock.

Start in gigantic underling and bust out to holds on the lip (one broken) Finish up the head wall. Fantastically fun boulder.

Matti Puckridge

Dylan Hill

As for The Great Roof to lip then traverse left on crimps to mantle in cave.

Dylan Hill

Dyno start and then left, head up to finish.

Link sit start of 'Help into Rock On'

Start in underclings at the back of the cave (back wall is on), climb out and into right hand side of scoop, then move right and across to the big pockets, before tackling the powerful headwall. Bad landing

Through roof then climb right to crimpy crux then nice to top. 'Fantastic' quality.

Start: right of jill

RH in the pocket 0.5 metres R of Let's Make Love. Go for the top with LH. Arete is off.

Wide start on slopey LH sidepull and RH slot. Dyno to jug.

Tyrone Clements Dylan Hill

Sit start on the sidepull/undercling. Low slabby band of rock is out for feet. Follow the obvious weakness through the roof to finish on the ledge out near the point.

David M

Same start as Dracula but move across into the Forgotten. Same finish.

Alternative more direct exit to the 7. Big triangle jug and massive shelf for original top are all out. Not sure if it's been done in the olden days but haven't heard of it.

Start with hands in cave and go straight up to top. Simple description, hard problem.

Sit start with matched hands on rail, throw out right and then traverse left, match top rail to finish.

Topo indication is approximate. Please refine if you know this route.

Start on good hold on the left side of the corner and head left out the roof. The separate boulder at the base of the start is not in for hands or feet.

Start: Sit

'7th Day Ascentist' variant, the same up till the slopey rail then all of Hollow Mountain Dreaming is off for hands and feet and instead of going up the crimps you go straight to the roof. Top out is the same as '7th Day Ascentist'. Maybe V8? Needs some repeats.

Chris Beers

Link the Crewcut sit-start into Dog Tags. Desperate and crimpy.

Start: Sit.

Link 'Milo and Kofi' into Woolly Jumper via a mid level traverse.

Traverse right out lip of cave to tough mantle then finish up easy slab.

Oliver Chen

Start matched in the back pocket, across the roof, pull the lip and up the difficult slab.

There are a pair of nesting swallows in one of the pockets at the start from time to time so be aware.

Marcus Lim

Start as for El Kooko 'matched' on the flake below the roof and move right to finish up 'Sloper-Dan Milosevic'.

'Sloper Dan Low' eliminate. Climb 'Sloper Dan Low' up to the crimp before the top rail then go direct to the horn.

As 'Boogie Knights (Original)', but exiting right of the horn via jugs as on 'Sloper-Dan Milosevic'. Significantly easier finish than the original.

Start: Sit

Mauricio Chino

Start 'matched' on the low start below the jug rail of El Kooko as for Sloper Dan Low. Climb across this problem all staying low all the way into and then up Shell Shocked.

Start as for Little Buddha and then make your way through The Vineyard jug rail, then head under the lip to link up and finish out Little Jon Jon.

Mauricio Chino

Sit start as for all other routes that begin in the cave. Around roof on slopers, then up the arete, staying right of 'Battle of the Shirts' and 'Battle of the Shorts'.

Sit start on lowest jug (same as for 'L'Homme Obu'). Skip the good hold on the left and instead us the triangle crimp for the RH and the glued crimp for the LH. After the break, finish up 'Lay Down Your Arms'.

Start as Mann Killer move up through the triangle pinch out right then the glued on crimp bumping up to the jug, then finish up through Arms Race.

Double undercling start, around bulge to crimps then bust to jugs.

Start: Sit

A testing mantle and the tougher exit. Starting from the Hueco heading slightly left to top out.

Bill Zhou

Start at the big Hueco in the middle of the cave. Out to the lip moving right to top out.

Stephen Rawls

Starts 3m to the right of the big hueco in the roof, below the faint runnel. Start left hand on low crimp right hand on slightly higher crimp rail. Start with or kick right heel up to start. Curse your way up on not much to gain high little pocket. Doesn't move out right

Sit start to Battle Of The Banksias. Short but pumpy.

Mauricio Chino

Pointless sit start to an otherwise great problem.

Start: Sit

Don't use the painful mono, and this is a powerful, committing and good problem.

Sit start to Reader's wives var

Start: Sit

Sit start on low rail then move right through a series of gastons and pop to the brick pinch at the lip to top out as for Black Caviare

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