Ascents in Jordan

Wonderful climbing for the first three pitches. Some of the best climbing in Wadi Rum. The first pitch is pure layback climbing up a positive crack with regularly protection stances. The crux is the finishing 5m which can be pumpy and committing to some. The second pitch gives you everything you want from climbing. with a hang crack on the right and an off width on the left. This pitch requires bridging, stemming, hand jams, arm bars, heel-toe camming and many other wonderful climbing moves. This is a climb you want to do over and over again. Pitch three is a slightly easier version of pitch one with a lot more variety.

Good short Trad-climbing with interesting moves and ample protection.

Amazing climbing from top to bottom. The first pitch is pure crack, punishing anyone who tries to face climb it but rewarding those willing to trust the jam. I suspect for a good crack climber this is 5+ however for a more all-rounder such as myself this is firmly 6a climbing even in the crack. The second pitch is committing and there is an escape anchor incase it is too much for you, however if you step up and place crux protection you will find the moves very rewarding and within the 6a skillset. The 6b move is very intense but can be protected by stepping up and then down-climbing to recover before going for the full send. Requires high feet and faith in a left hand jam. Pitch 4 is the surprise of the route, once you feel you are past the hard sections onto nice easy 5b climbing, pitch 4 creeps up on you by being continually sustained over its entire 45m length. Pitch 5 is still enjoyable and less sustained.

Good, interesting climbing with plenty of protection options.

Pitch 1 is a long scramble, with two Boulder problems at the start and end. Pitch 2 has a very awkward move up into the cave before the crux which I found to be trickier than the crux. The crux is 2 moves on good handholds before a high foot takes you to a safe ledge. Watch the rope in the crack if you clip the thread above this move. Pitch 3 is two very awkward squeezes with below average feet. With a bag on it’s something of a fight to wriggle through both these problems. Recommend hauling a bag. This pitch seems tough for 5- would probably grade at 5. Final pitch is 4 or 5 easy moves, made more tricky by how sandy the slab is, and then a monster of a move into a cave. I found this to be the trickiest move of the day. Due to how Sandy the holds are I would grade 5+.

Harder than a 5A.

From the beginning of the route it's clear this is not a 5b. You have to do some side pulling to get up to the first bolt, which is a bit high and possibly dangerous for someone climbing regularly at the 5b level. If you are not confident at the 6A level, then use a clip stick. Once you get to the second bolt you have to decide whether to take the crack or divert to the sharp feature on the right, which will create some swing if you fall but seems easier. Climbing through the crack you may be poked and scratched by bushes and thorns as you struggle to find the holds. Again, this is more like 6a level or higher. About half way up you seem to run out of bolts, so you'll need to traverse left with not much for feet besides sharp rock that creates nice grip and just sharp crimps for holds. This section feels like 6a+ and feels a bit exposed. Overall the route feels like a battle, and there are some fun challenges to navigate, so if you are up for a humbling route, give it a try!

Best route that we climbed in this sector. Grade felt harder than 5c though. Very sharp on the hands like all of the routes here.

OVERAL: Very nice route, with distant but solid bolts and easy to place intermediate protections. The difficult moves are well protected. The wall is South Face exposed, therefore can be done only in winter times/cold days.

ROUTE: 1st - Climb vertical on easy terrain (5b) but distanced bolts to a ledge and then left to the anchore (bolted with maillon).

2nd - Climb above the anchor on vertical wall, well protected, possible to integrate, with one tricky move to stand up on a small ledge (6a+), then a traverse to the right, protected with a bolt but exposed move (6a) to the anchor (two bolts).

3rd - Go up the corner, 6a, (high bolt, can integrate) then traverse on a slab to the left, 6a (easy to place protections) to a belay station (bolted with chain).

4th - Vertical difficult climb (6b) with a bolt very low placed and slippery feet. Then straight up with no bolts but ok protections until another bolt. Then another physical move out on a slab (6a) to the right (anchor with bolts and maillon).

5th - Exposed traverse right with a bolt in the middle and tiny feed and holds (6a+/b), then easier terrain with a bolt and easy to protect. Reach almost the top of the wall going right. Here you can make an intermediate anchor on huge sandclocks or traversing left onto a ledge (huge rope drag) to the last anchor (one bolt and sandclocks with old ropes connecting).

ABSEIL: 1st abseil 40m to the start of the 4th pitch. 2nd abseil, with a bit of drag to the left, to the end of the 1st pitch. 3rd abseil to the ground

GEAR: 6 quickdraws, one set of cams small and middle sizes, 2x 60m ropes.

The extension last pitch is a must !

Requires big cams in the first real pitch (2nd)

the anchor bolts were not connected and without a quick link, I fixed it. However, the anchor can be easily reached from top by walking, locals organize picnics in the area and may remove them in the future.

Beginning felt hard at first, but if you use your back against the opposing wall, it's not too. The slight overhang just before the anchors feels a bit scary but there are tons of holds.

Balancy. Not much for your feet but little nubbins. Good route to train your balance and make you trust your shoes.

Super cool rock. It's like someone poured caramel on an ice cream but covered it in marble. Tons of jugs and good feet.

very nice and easy

very nice and easy