Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sat 27th Sep 2014 - Rifle Mountain Park | ||||||
The Meat Wall | ||||||
5.11a |
★★ Cold Cuts
![]() | 30m | Average | |||
A bit chossy and polished, nowhere near as good as 80 ft
|
||||||
Wed 24th Sep 2014 - Rocky Mountain National Park | ||||||
Estes Park Valley Highway 7 And Tributaries Lily Lake (Jurassic Park) Dinosaur's Foot | ||||||
5.8 |
★ Index Toe
![]() | |||||
A nice feature between rain showers
|
||||||
Wed 24th Sep 2014 - Rocky Mountain National Park | ||||||
Estes Park Valley Highway 7 And Tributaries Lily Lake (Jurassic Park) The Fin | ||||||
5.9 |
★ Northeast Face
![]() | ★ Good | ||||
I think this was the warm up.....
|
||||||
5.9 5.9 PG13 |
★★★ Edge Of Time
![]() | ★ Good | ||||
The first bolt was useful, the rest cosmetic I think
|
||||||
5.9 |
★★ East Of Eden
![]() | ★ Good | ||||
Not sure if this was it
|
||||||
Mon 22nd Sep 2014 - Mount Rushmore | ||||||
South Seas Borneo | ||||||
5.10c |
★★★ Pelican's Dike-ination (Pelicans dikeinarion)
![]() | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Probably my favourite route of the day as it follows a strong natural line
|
||||||
Mon 22nd Sep 2014 - Mount Rushmore | ||||||
South Seas | ||||||
5.9 |
★★★ Lead fillings
![]() | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice exposed climbing on arête
|
||||||
Mon 22nd Sep 2014 - Spearfish Canyon | ||||||
The Mohican Trail Of Tears Wall | ||||||
5.10c |
★★★ Peace Pipe
![]() | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice varied climbing
|
||||||
Mon 22nd Sep 2014 - Spearfish Canyon | ||||||
The Mohican Head Shop Wall | ||||||
5.10a |
★★ Totally Flaked
![]() | 20m | ★ Good | |||
A very pumpy warmup due to poor feet
|
||||||
Mon 15th Sep 2014 - Ten Sleep Canyon | ||||||
Mondo Beyondo Antarctica | ||||||
5.10b |
★ Wild turkeys
![]() | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Jumped the snake at the base
|
||||||
Mon 15th Sep 2014 - Ten Sleep Canyon | ||||||
Mondo Beyondo World Domination | ||||||
5.11d |
★★★ Captain Insano
![]() | 28m, 14 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Lovely endurance, technical route
|
||||||
Sun 14th Sep 2014 - Ten Sleep Canyon | ||||||
Dry Wall - left side After 5 | ||||||
5.11d |
★★ The Morrigan
![]() | 25m, 12 | ★ Good | |||
Nice steep top section
|
||||||
Sun 14th Sep 2014 - Ten Sleep Canyon | ||||||
Mondo Beyondo Rusty Cage | ||||||
5.11b |
★★ Great white buffalo
![]() | 12m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Short, felt I was on the pocketed wall at nowra
|
||||||
Sun 14th Sep 2014 - Ten Sleep Canyon | ||||||
Mondo Beyondo Dreamland | ||||||
5.10b |
★★ Beer Bong
![]() | 23m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fun top, slippery start
|
||||||
Sun 14th Sep 2014 - Ten Sleep Canyon | ||||||
Mondo Beyondo Downpour Wall | ||||||
5.10d 5.10+ |
★★ School's Out
![]() | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Easy crack to fun jugs
|
||||||
Fri 12th Sep 2014 - Sinks Canyon | ||||||
Main Wall Brisket | ||||||
5.10a |
The guyver
![]() | 8m | Average | |||
Hard to see how this short route gets two stars
|
||||||
Fri 12th Sep 2014 - Sinks Canyon | ||||||
Addiction | ||||||
5.11a |
★★★ Corner Drug
![]() | ★★ Very Good | ||||
A nice steep jugfest
|
||||||
Sun 7th Sep 2014 - City of Rocks | ||||||
Center City Bath Rock Area Rollercoaster Wall | ||||||
5.10c |
★★★ Collosus
![]() | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great exposure
|
||||||
5.11b |
★★ Loch Ness Monster
![]() | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Yay, top rope hero
|
||||||
5.10a |
★ Coffee and Cornflakes
![]() | Average | ||||
Nice top section but not a nice lead proposition if you were just leading that grade as the first bolt is 10 m up after a steep move
|
||||||
Sun 7th Sep 2014 - City of Rocks | ||||||
Center City Elephant Rock Area Elephant Rock, East Side | ||||||
5.9 |
★★ Just Say No
![]() | 40m | Average | |||
Some nice holds and scary bolting
|
||||||
Thu 4th Sep 2014 - Smith Rock State Park | ||||||
Rope De Dope Block | ||||||
5.10c |
★ Sting Like a Bee
![]() | Average | ||||
At least it was shady
|
||||||
Wed 3rd Sep 2014 - Smith Rock State Park | ||||||
West Side Crags Mesa Verde Wall | ||||||
5.10d |
★★★ Moons of Pluto
![]() | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
A nice line and committing up top
|
||||||
5.10b |
★★ Screaming Yellow Zonkers
![]() | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Memorable due to the spaced bolts and tiny pebbles that you expect to explode
|
||||||
Tue 2nd Sep 2014 - Smith Rock State Park | ||||||
Smith Rock Group East Side Routes Phoenix Buttress | ||||||
5.10a |
★★ Phoenix
![]() | 27m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
I don't recall this route at all and apparently a key jug broke making it harder, and feel run out
|
||||||
Mon 1st Sep 2014 - Smith Rock State Park | ||||||
West Side Crags Christian Brothers | ||||||
5.11b |
★★ Holier than Thou
![]() | ★ Good | ||||
Down as a must do 4/4 star route. The top is ok, but not liking these routes much
|
||||||
Sun 31st Aug 2014 - Smith Rock State Park | ||||||
The Dihedrals | ||||||
5.10b |
★★ Wedding Day
![]() | 25m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
We are going to buy an extendable pole after the stupid start of this with crux before first bolt that is 6m off ground
|
||||||
Thu 28th Aug 2014 - Squamish | ||||||
Murrin Park Zoë | ||||||
5.10b |
★★ Staples of the Gluten Intolerant
![]() | 24m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
A bit of a squeeze
|
||||||
Wed 27th Aug 2014 - Skaha | ||||||
Blipvert Tower | ||||||
5.11c |
★★ Brow beaten
![]() | 30m | ||||
Draws on. Quite pumpy.
|
||||||
Wed 27th Aug 2014 - Skaha | ||||||
Screeching Wall | ||||||
5.11c |
★★ Isis in Chains
![]() | 25m, 9 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Superb the entire way
|
||||||
Sun 24th Aug 2014 - Skaha | ||||||
Doctors Wall | ||||||
5.11a |
★★★ Naturopath
![]() | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Macdougalled a little right to keep out of a guys way on mr crow.
|
||||||
Thu 21st Aug 2014 - Lake Louise | ||||||
Outhouse Area | ||||||
5.10a |
★★ Public Enemy
![]() | 23m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
The top half ok, continued up extension
|
||||||
Fri 15th Aug 2014 - Canmore | ||||||
Grassi Lakes White Imperialist Area | ||||||
5.10b |
★★ Yellow Peril
![]() | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice but reachy moves between pockets
|
||||||
Fri 15th Aug 2014 - Canmore | ||||||
Grassi Lakes Graceland Area | ||||||
5.10d |
★★ Memphis
![]() | 29m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Long and exposed
|
||||||
Fri 15th Aug 2014 - Canmore | ||||||
Grassi Lakes Meathooks Area | ||||||
5.11a |
★★ Meathooks
![]() | 20m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Finally a cool day. Fun jugging.
|
||||||
Thu 14th Aug 2014 - Canmore | ||||||
Cougar Canyon Casino Crag | ||||||
5.10c |
★★ Snake Eyes
![]() | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tricky sloppy moves
|
||||||
Thu 14th Aug 2014 - Canmore | ||||||
Cougar Canyon House of Cards | ||||||
5.10c |
★★ Byzantium.
![]() | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really interesting climbing
|
||||||
Tue 12th Aug 2014 - Banff | ||||||
Carrot Creek Gully Wall | ||||||
5.11b |
★★ Magic in the Air
![]() | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Very reachy at top, had to do another mossy sequence
|
||||||
Tue 12th Aug 2014 - Banff | ||||||
Carrot Creek Graffiti Wall | ||||||
5.10a |
★ American Graffiti
![]() | 20m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very nice warm up, with the FA with us
|
||||||
Tue 12th Aug 2014 - Canmore | ||||||
Ha Ling Peak | ||||||
5.10d |
★★★ Sisyphus Summits
![]() | 600m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Led alt in 12 pitches, 500m, very sustained for 18 pitches with only 2 pitches of chossy 5.8. And cool when all else baking. 8 hours.
|
||||||
Sat 9th Aug 2014 - Begbie Bluffs | ||||||
Rabbit Wall | ||||||
5.10b |
★★★ Octagon
![]() | 25m | ||||
Fun climbing
|
||||||
Sat 9th Aug 2014 - Begbie Bluffs | ||||||
Raptor Wall | ||||||
5.11a |
★★★ Flashdance
![]() | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Pretty cruise
|
||||||
5.10c 5.10b |
★★ The Beak (Right of line of fire)
![]() | 25m | Average | |||
Discontinuous
|
||||||
Fri 8th Aug 2014 - Waterworld | ||||||
Gilligans island | ||||||
5.10c |
Booby hatch
![]() | 28m | Average | |||
Not so confident with the rock
|
||||||
Tue 5th Aug 2014 - Cheakamus Canyon | ||||||
Cheakamus Canyon Climbing Area Forgotten Wall Forgotten Wall Right | ||||||
5.10b 5.10c |
★ The Voodoo That You Do
![]() | 18m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Anchors wearing through
|
||||||
Tue 5th Aug 2014 - Cheakamus Canyon | ||||||
Cheakamus Canyon Climbing Area Forgotten Wall Forgotten Wall Left | ||||||
5.10d |
★★ Bullet the Blue Car
![]() | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Best route of the day here
|
||||||
Tue 5th Aug 2014 - Cheakamus Canyon | ||||||
Cheakamus Canyon Climbing Area Forgotten Wall Forgotten Wall Right | ||||||
5.10d |
★ Creeping Right (Crawling Right)
![]() | 22m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
5.10b 5.12c |
★★ Sudden Impact - Long (Low Impact)
![]() | 20m, 9 | Average | |||
Thu 19th Jun 2014 - Buis-les-Baronnies | ||||||
Rocher Saint Julien La Grotte | ||||||
6a |
★★★ La grotte (La grotta)
![]() | 90m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Beautiful route, 7am ascent before checking out of campground.
|
||||||
Tue 17th Jun 2014 - Saint-Léger du Ventoux | ||||||
Nord | ||||||
6b+ 6c+ |
★★ Hold up
![]() | 30m, 15 | ★ Good | |||
About as hard as part 2
|
||||||
6a |
Mauvais joueur
![]() | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Not too polished, and reasonably interesting. Rock looks suss.
|
||||||
Tue 17th Jun 2014 - Saint-Léger du Ventoux | ||||||
Est Le short dans le trou | ||||||
6b+ |
★★★ Piedra salvaje
![]() | 35m | ★★★ Classic | |||
A little bit of everything
|
||||||
Sat 14th Jun 2014 - Rocher Maubert | ||||||
Sektor 4 | ||||||
6a 7a+ |
Intouchables (6a to right of crack)
![]() | 30m | Average | |||
This was pretty hard at one point, and clipping anchors.
|
||||||
Fri 13th Jun 2014 - Clapeyto | ||||||
Ecole de beaudois | ||||||
6a |
La forge de Maurice
![]() | 20m | Average | |||
Trying to find the multipitch. The scale of the topo threw us out. Would have been nicer without the pack as it was verybalancy.
|
||||||
Wed 11th Jun 2014 - Céüse | ||||||
Demi Lune | ||||||
6a+ |
★★ Face d'iguane
![]() | 20m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
First climb at ceuse with moments of interest
|
||||||
6b |
★★ Marylou
![]() | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Seemed unnecessarily run out at crux
|
||||||
Sat 7th Jun 2014 - Rue des Masques | ||||||
Petite lune | ||||||
6c |
★★ Un point c'est tout
![]() | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good moves and 2 overhangs to get over
|
||||||
6b+ |
★ A l'aide
![]() | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Got quite pumped despite big holds
|
||||||
Sat 7th Jun 2014 - Rue des Masques | ||||||
Le vent des croix | ||||||
6c+ |
★ Humphrey bienfufer
![]() | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Draws were on, nice moves but scary looking conglomerate
|
||||||
Wed 4th Jun 2014 - Les Gorges du Verdon | ||||||
Malines | ||||||
6a+ |
★★ Arete du Belvedere
![]() | 250m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Led alt pitches with dave. Scored crux. Passed nice French guide who came in above first 3 pitches. Descent required down climbing and 3 abseils and took almost as long as 7 pitch ascent in the rain.
|
||||||
Mon 2nd Jun 2014 - Finale Ligure | ||||||
Boragni Skarafonia | ||||||
6a+ |
★★ Il Ritorno di Andreix (Returned a andre)
![]() | 19m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Another amazing route on this wall
|
||||||
6b |
★★ Bibolted
![]() | 19m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Brilliant climb, and harder than the 6b+ to the right! and it was a little sandbagged
|
||||||
Mon 2nd Jun 2014 - Val Varatella | ||||||
Toirano Paretone di Toirano | ||||||
6a |
★★★ Eldorado
![]() | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Interesting varied moves
|
||||||
Mon 2nd Jun 2014 - Val Pennavaire | ||||||
Colosseo | ||||||
6a |
★ catilina
![]() | 13m, 6 | Average | |||
3stars! You have to joking.
|
||||||
6b+ |
★★ diocleziano
![]() | 17m | ★ Good | |||
Roof at bottom more interesting for short, a brief bit of crumbly rock then some nice moves
|
||||||
6a |
★ pompeo
![]() | 15m, 7 | Average | |||
An aid to getting draws on the route to right. Not great rock
|
||||||
Tue 27th May 2014 - Finale Ligure | ||||||
Valle Sciusa Rocca di Corno Futura | ||||||
6a |
Ventolin ed Aliflus (Ventolin. And aliflus)
![]() | 16m | Average | |||
Bouldery, was not bad
|
||||||
Tue 27th May 2014 - Finale Ligure | ||||||
Valle Sciusa Rocca di Corno Settore Est | ||||||
4c 5b |
★★ Dreams
![]() | 16m | ★ Good | |||
Interesting marbled rock. Up a big corner
|
||||||
Tue 27th May 2014 - Finale Ligure | ||||||
Valle Sciusa Rocca di Corno Futura | ||||||
5c 6a |
★★ Proctolin
![]() | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Not 3 star, sharp and silly anchor placement. I also see it has gone up in the new guide to 6a, and hopefully many of the other routes migrate as well
|
||||||
Sun 25th May 2014 - Finale Ligure | ||||||
Valle Sciusa Rocca di Corno Settore Ovest | ||||||
6a+ |
★★★ Il futuro è un ipotesi
![]() | 40m | ★ Good | |||
Did both pitches together, less than 35m total.
|
||||||
Fri 23rd May 2014 - Finale Ligure | ||||||
Rocca Carpanea Grotta dell'Edera | ||||||
6b |
★★★ Bombolo
![]() | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Felt more 6a+ than potopo. Extremely nice big moves from big holds in an amazing funnel.
|
||||||
6c+ 6c |
★★★ Rank Xerox
![]() | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Amazing position, well bolted, accurate grade, brilliant
|
||||||
Wed 21st May 2014 - Finale Ligure | ||||||
Monte Cucco Fenia | ||||||
6c |
★★★ Coconut
![]() | 27m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Another of the Monty ticklist. Indeed a nice little coconut with a lizard in the last pocket below anchors
|
||||||
6a+ |
★★★ Cala Trinchetto
![]() | 33m, 15 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Would be nicer if the old bolts removed
|
||||||
6a+ 6a |
★★ Oggi in stereo
![]() | 35m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Hard start, the really nice, though quite run out
|
||||||
Tue 20th May 2014 - Ceredo | ||||||
Settore A - Mangiafuoco | ||||||
6a |
★ Lo Gnomo di Safres
![]() | 13m | ★ Good | |||
Quite hard for the grade the start is overhung monos ad 2 finger pockets
|
||||||
Sun 18th May 2014 - Ceredo | ||||||
Settore A - Mangiafuoco | ||||||
6b |
★★ Yard Bird
![]() | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very nice once you get into it.
|
||||||
6a+ |
★★ La Santa Inquisitione
![]() | 21m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Felt harder than the 6bs
|
||||||
Sat 17th May 2014 - Val d'Algone | ||||||
6c+ |
★★★ Wat arun
![]() | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
A long corner that overhung about 5 metres.
|
||||||
5c |
★ Test
![]() | 17m | Average | |||
Thu 15th May 2014 - Valle del Sarca | ||||||
Sarche Sisyphos | ||||||
6a |
★★ Calippo
![]() | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice corner warm up
|
||||||
6b+ |
★★ Camillino
![]() | ★ Good | ||||
A little escapable in parts
|
||||||
5c |
★★ Croccante
![]() | ★ Good | ||||
About the only soft route I have encountered in arco
|
||||||
Tue 13th May 2014 - Valle del Sarca | ||||||
Sarche Sisyphos | ||||||
6a |
★ Vaselina
![]() | ★ Good | ||||
Pleasant enough and not that polished
|
||||||
Mon 12th May 2014 - Nago | ||||||
Belvedere Sector B | ||||||
5c |
★ Piccola Chimera
![]() | 22m | ★ Good | |||
This sector has really stupid bolting with too many in first few metres scramble, in odd positions that create rope drag, then malpositioned to clip up high, and unprotected cruxes. And no one recesses ring bolts.
|
||||||
6b |
★★ Warm Up
![]() | 16m | ★ Good | |||
A steep little unit. Warm down.
|
||||||
Sat 10th May 2014 - Valle del Sarca | ||||||
Le Piazzole | ||||||
6b+ |
★★ Marija queen of speed
![]() | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Top 2/3 is good after crumbly start
|
||||||
6c |
★★★ Ramon king of lead
![]() | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Nice to be on a tufa.
|
||||||
6a+ 6b+ |
★★ Anna queen of boulder
![]() | 20m | Average | |||
Fri 9th May 2014 - Nago | ||||||
Falesia Segrom Sector F | ||||||
6a 6a+ |
★★ Medea
![]() | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Was great except for anchor placement for short. Send tall partner up to put QuickDraw on or have a tantrum like I did.
|
||||||
Thu 8th May 2014 - Nago | ||||||
Falesia Segrom Sector A | ||||||
6a+ 6a |
★ Unknown 4
![]() | 20m | Average | |||
Crappy slimy start, then jugs
|
||||||
6a+ |
★★★ Ruggero Lo Perfido
![]() | 23m | ★★ Very Good | |||
A nice climb that actually felt like the right grade and had decent bolting
|
||||||
Mon 5th May 2014 - Nago | ||||||
Falesia Segrom Sector D | ||||||
6b |
★★ Esodo
![]() | 30m | Average | |||
If this had been grade 23 and had 5 more bolts it may have been realistic. Not recommend as a 'must do'
|
||||||
Mon 5th May 2014 - Nago | ||||||
Falesia Segrom Sector E | ||||||
6b 6a+ |
★ Firminik
![]() | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Hard and run out
|
||||||
5b |
★★ Patti Sassi
![]() | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Interesting at this grade
|
||||||
Sun 4th May 2014 - Discoteca | ||||||
6c |
★★ Santa Esmeralda
![]() | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
A tricky dihedral
|
||||||
6a+ |
★★ Paolitos (Paolitis)
![]() | 28m | ★ Good | |||
Tricky sequence
|
||||||
6a 6a+ |
★★ Superlaura
![]() | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Another nice vague dihedral
|
||||||
6b+ |
★ Svalvolati on the road (Svavolati on the road)
![]() | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Easy bottom past first set of anchors, then crux
|
||||||
6b+ |
★★ El tiburon
![]() | 32m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Layback to glory, at least I did.
|