Routes in Australia for selected grade

We intended to climb directly up the seam past the bolt but couldn’t do it, hopefully someone else will. A bit artificial as it stands as the more you keep using holds to the R the easier it is. Crack 2m L of Rungwalk to ledge. A seam continues up past a ring bolt. Step R and use side pulls on the arête to get started and move up to knob on next ledge [clip ring bolt before these moves]. Continue up to large ledge. Walk L from here to DBB or finish up Rungwalk DF

A lovely orange corner leads to an exciting traverse. Slightly marred by a scrappy approach and finish.

Start: Start below orange corner R of 'Benn Gunn'.

Steeper than it looks. Add some slings to a rack of small-medium wires and medium cams.

Start: Start a few metres L of Let X=X.

Balancy face-climbing.

Start: Start at the back of the pinnacle, just R of L arete.

The easiest line to the top and is a bit more worthwhile if climbed from the ground. Start directly under LHS of wall, up to mantle onto small ledge, then up steep but easy wall to main ledge. Stretch to clip FH, then straight up wall / grooves to top. Rap down into gully as for Birth of the Cool.

Up the wall. A few meters up there is a sickle shaped crack/pod that takes a bomber #7 rock. Up on natural gear. Take care with the juggy rock near the top, as some of it is a little fragile. Rap from the big penis-shaped bollard.

Start: Start on the left wall of the gully, a few metres right of the start of the distinctive horizontal break.

Contrived but enjoyable.

Start: Start at the first belay of 'Trident' (i.e. do pitch 1 of 'Trident' first).

Good climbing, with funky moves around the overhang which would have been hard to protect before small cams.

Start: Start as for 'Trident', i.e. start at the crack line about 15m L of Zola.

1. 20m (19) Follow 'Trident' to the ledge at 9m then head directly over the overhang and up the shallow orange corner.

2. 15m (16) Move 2m R and climb the wall L of the wide chimney (bold to start.

An old classic with a tough crux. Often done in 1 pitch.

Start: Start beneath the major but strangely scooped line up the prominent sheer orange/grey wall at the foot, and to the left, of the descent gully. This is at the L edge of the jumble of flakes and blocks.

1. 15m (17) Move up an easy rib R of the corner and traverse L across a gargoyle into the corner (the direct variants have all been bouldered). Up corner, an old peg or two, with hard moves to gain the cave.

2. 22m (14) Continue up the chimney to a ledge on the L. Continue in the line or move out L to the arete. The rap anchor (added early '07) is about 0.5m down in the crack itself.

Generally nice climbing with a spectacular move through the overhang near the top, but spoiled by the first 10m shared with 'Strela'. Could improve with traffic.

On the FA, the overhang at the top was avoided by traversing right and climbing easy ground to finish up a steep flake left of the finish of "Strela". The overhang was added by the team doing the variant start.

Start: Start as for "Strela", the first chimney-line R of the foot of the Amphitheatre 'Gully'.

1. 25m (15) Up the dirty groove for 10m (large cams) and traverse L along sloping ledge to orange-tinged crack up buttress. Up crack to good ledge.

2. 20m (9) Climb groove from L end of ledge to below roof.

3. 25m (18) Swing through overhang (large nut, at least #10 wire, not cam) then wall and easy ledges to top.

Not a popular concept. Takes the corner out L of the main 'Simpleton' corner with a loose crux.

Start: There is a chimney/gully 10m R of Molar Buttress; start 1m R of this gully.

1. 15m (-) Up the line in the short wall to a bushy ledge.

2. 30m (17) (crux) Take the corner at the L end of the ledge until it fades out. Traverse L to a bushy cave.

3. 35m (-) L to the arete. Up just L of arete with an exciting swing over a bulge.

A magnificent climb up a great line. The first pitch can be avoided by scrambling up the slabs below 'Technical Ecstasy' and traversing in. Do the finish as described (it's worth it) and save the obvious finish for 'Technical Ecstasy'. Take 1 or 2 large cams (e.g. #4 or #5 camalot).

Start: Start as for 'Gross Encounters', 1m R of gully.

1. 30m (8) Climb the short wall to large ledge, up to next ledge and follow overlap R to long, narrow treed ledge where the wall steepens (the scramble from 'Technical Ecstasy' comes in here from the right). Move up then L off ledge and belay on small ledge at foot of huge corner, about 7m below obvious cave.

2. 35m (18) Up to cave and out R and up to FH at lip (a thin sling can protect the clip) and follow the line. At 25m exciting moves lead into the thin line just to the R. Belay on a great small ledge with an old (untrustworthy) carrot bolt and bomber trad.

3. 20m (18) On until 4m below the roof. Traverse L (wildly exposed) across the wall to easy ground.

Good, but not in the same class as the other climbs here. Apparently it should have been called 'Maniac'.

Start: Start as for 'Technical Ecstasy'.

1. 35m (16) As for 'Technical Ecstasy'. An alternative to the first pitch is to belay on the R about 8m below the original belay and climb directly into the second pitch crack.

2. 30m (13) Move R to a groove on the far side of the wall and climb the groove to belay 10m below the capping overhang.

3. 20m (18) Up the slab, keeping just L of arete to a wildly exposed pull through the overhang.

Clean slab/wall climbing all the way up to the chains on TSIC. Two BRs (hangers required!) and an assortment of cams and trad gear. Slightly contrived at the start, the hard moves past the first bolt can be avoided by easier climbing to the left, but delightful above. The second bolt is hidden until you get right to it!

Start: Five or six metres left of This Structure is closed (very contrived). Alt start - might be better starting immediately L of SIC, then trending up L towards the bolt and onwards. Won't be as contrived this way, and gear will run straighter.

A boulder problem that might ease when the R-hand crack is dry.

Start: Start beneath the twin cracks of Watchtower Castle's first pitch.

Wanders a bit but offers a lot of good climbing at the grade. The second pitch is excellent, the 3rd pitch and start of the 4th pitch detract, but the steep juggy finish is great. Originally done with a worthless first pitch out L of 'Petite Fleur' and finished up what is described here as the final pitch of 'Sabre'. The final pitch was originally done as 'The Crank' 'Direct Finish'.

Start: Start as for 'Petite Fleur' (see the separate page for 'Petite Fleur' Wall).

1. 15m (14) Climb 'Petite Fleur' and continue up to a large, bushy ledge. (Any other pitch on 'Petite Fleur' Wall will also get you to the ledge).

2. 35m (14) Just keeps getting better. Go up to R-most L-leaning diagonal line. Up this diagonal until it fades, step L to next diagonal and follow it over bulge and on until it fades into a slabby arete leading up R. Make a few exciting moves up the arete then step R and up to long ledge.

3. 15m (12) Traverse L below the overhang into the gully (reverses pitch 3 of The Crank) and belay below a corner 5m up the gully. Place gear to protect your second against a groundfall into the gully.

4. 25m (14) Climb the worrying corner (hollow rock, spaced gear) to a ledge below the overhang. Dangle through the overhang and up the awesome steep wall on huge holds.

A full-frontal assault on the Grey Wall. Relatively unsung, the third pitch is a pretty impressive effort for 1966 and still gives modern climbers something to think about. Large cams are needed. The route originally started up 'Petite Fleur' and finished up 'The Crank'. The finish as described was the original finish of 'Grace Before Meals'.

Start: Start as for 'Baby Doll', 8m R of 'Petite Fleur', 3m L of twin cracks.

1. 20m (18) As for Baby Doll: Step L off boulder and climb face to ramp above 2nd bolt. At top of ramp, clip bolt and move 4m L along break to climb final wall past bolt.

2. 20m (12) Up to foot of R-most of the L-leading diagonals (i.e., the 2nd pitch of 'Grace' Before Meals). Up L along the diagonal for 5m, traverse R for 3m and climb the bulge. Up to a small ledge and old bolt.

3. 21m (17) Climb the weakness above, pretty much straight up the centre of the wall, poor protection at times, to a long ledge.

4. 25m (18) Move 3m L and climb the overhanging wall on chicken heads.Tend a little R on easy ground, then straight up steep wall (#4 cam) to slab and groove to top.

A reasonable route which fills in the space between 'Sabre' and Walltower Castle

Start: Start at the arete just left of P2 of Walltower Castle.

1. 40m (18) Jump start then up slab to FH. Step right then easily up L to next hard bit. Move a few metres left then up to flake. Move right to edge of slab then up over roof to ledge.

2. 25m (18) Pull over roof at giant thread, then head up and slightly left to finish as for pitch 4 of 'Sabre'.

Start as for Shining Path, following the brushed streak to the right. Committing slabbing with spaced cams to bolted anchors.

An historic route but much of the climb is quite easy, it wanders, and the best bits are included in 'Sweet Dreams' and 'Navarre'. Still, it's not a bad climb for parties that want a longish climb with a short, well-protected crux. The nasty version of the final traverse is memorable. Take large cams.

Start: Scramble up the top of the easy diagonal ramp to below the major L-leading diagonal groove/corner, about 15m R of 'Spillway'.

1. 35m (18) L-leaning groove to big slot with hard move at 25m. Traverse R to terrace.

2. 20m (-) Traverse L past bush and up to ledge.

3. 20m (-) Follow diagonal line up L to overhang, undercling and layback R around flake and on up line to ledge on R.

4. 12m (-) Traverse R to terrace. There are two options: either a poorly protected friction traverse R to a better foot-ledge or, move up 3m, traverse easily R and drop back down to end of the friction section.

5. 10m (-) Up L to abseil anchors.

Devious and serious. Strangely, the hard climbing is after the spot that aid was used on the first ascent!

Start: Start from the second belay on 'Sluice'.

Climb direct up the orange-brown streak in the steep wall between 'Sluice' and 'Threadneedle'.

Start: Scramble up to the top of the 'Threadneedle' ramp.

An elegant climb up the line delimiting the R side of the slabs.

Start: Start as for 'Sluice'.

1. 35m (17) As for 'Sluice', the L-leaning groove to big slot with hard move at 25m. Traverse R to terrace.

2. 30m (17) An attractive, diagonal corner rises from the terrace. Either climb the wall L of the corner to start or take the corner all the way to the next terrace.

3. 10m (-) Up L to abseil anchors.

Lovely slabbing. Recently retro-bolted to make it reasonable for people climbing at the grade, but still needs a rack. Grade is likely to drop a little. Start at the top of pitch 1 of Navarre, near the left side of the terrace. Climb over the bulge and go easily up to a water streak. Up streak(FH), mantle (FH), step right and up (FH) to runner at horizontal break. On up face,(#2 cam essential) until almost able to reach corner on R. Instead, move easily out left (FH) and up to belay on Sluice traverse.

A couple of exciting moves but the rest is ordinary.

Start about 10m down left of Atomic Tadpole at far left edge of wall and about 15m right of the major vile-looking chimney of Gunigalg Gully.

1. 20m (18) Up the short tricky crack, step right then up slab and belay before steepening.

2. 20m (18) Up until level with roofline to right. Dangle right around the arete then easily up face. Towards the top, step back right to take the final steep finish to sling anchor at top.

Takes in the good pitches of Tokyo Rose and Mission over Tokyo, and avoids the rubbish.

Start as for Tokyo Rose.

1. 25m (18) As for Tokyo Rose pitch 1.

2. 20m (18) As for Mission over Tokyo pitch 2.

Obvious line, but the second pitch is ordinary. Improved by finishing up the second pitch of Mission Over Tokyo (i.e. by doing Tokyo Connection instead).

Start in the square orange corner at the right side of the grey slab, about 8m R of Atomic Tadpole, on the elevated ledge.

1. 25m (18) Climb the corner to the roof and traverse left below the roof, crossing Atomic Tadpole to belay on the arete.

2. 20m (18) Follow the diagonal crack up left through a small overhang to a vague ledge. Step right, climb the arete and exit left at the steepening. Has also been done by continuing from the 'vague ledge' up the vague leftwards diagonal (poor pro) to the arete of the chimney (as shown in the topo above).

This was the first route up Taipan Wall, an incredible achievement for the time, and remained the lone route on the wall for many years. It is still a stunning classic that generally follows a series of flakes and horizontal breaks trending rightwards up to the very highest point of the wall. Whether you do it at 18M2 with 3 sections of aid, 22M1 with one point of aid (via LHV) or free at 28 (via variant), it is a fantastic excursion. The remnant original fixed gear should be treated with suspicion, although enough bolts have been replaced to avoid death route status. Start at the very faint initials "SP", about 5m L of where the major flake system doesn't quite reach the ground (or bridge the tree direct).

1. 40m (18 M1) Up the short pocketed wall, move 5m R and follow flake up R to horizontal break. Squirm R for 8m to awkwardly gain bolt ladder up white streak. Bring plenty of hero loops. One free move off the last bolt gains new DRB SHB (22m rap).

2. 30m (18 M2) Step L and free up flake to a blank steep wall. Long reach to bolt, use it for aid to gain the next flake and either immediately revert to freeing (22M1), or keep aiding on RPs (18M2), to move L around the roof to the guano stained tip of the major flake. Continue up flake to a large horizontal break (with one final aid move for the 18M2 version). Crawl in for a lying down belay followed by an all-night bivvy (like Guild and Stone)...or take the far cushier hanging belay.

3. 18m (1) The most outrageous grade 1 on the planet. Squirm awkwardly R to end of ledge and new DRB (45m rap).

4. 25m (18) Follow the steep flake line up diagonally R (PR, BR) to the steep corner up the L side of the final tower, to a dangling topout at the very highest point of Taipan Wall.

A huge block sits on the terrace R of the overhanging wall. Short, thin crack next to the block up grey wall. Finish up discontinuous cracks.

A stream in wet weather.

Start: The major vertical corner from the terrace.

Start 8m R of 'Inkido Roof' at the first easier line after all the steepness.

1. 25m (17) The crack.

2. 15m (-) The chimney, then step L to the jugs. The quickest walk-down is the gully between Lower 'Taipan' and 'Reprisal Wall'. Find this by bashing 50m back to 'Afterglow Wall', then go 80m R until you're underneath 'Between the Sheeps' bouldering area. Turn R away from the rock and after 30m you're at the top of the gully.

Bouldery start with no pro (a high runner in 'Centaur' may help).

Start: Start 2m L of 'Centaur'.

Up layback and onto slab. Climb thin crack splitting wall above just right of wide crack. After reaching big break at 15m keep climbing upwards to belay on large ledge.

Start: Start 10m right of 'Pentridge Smack Delivery' at short layback corner crack.

Don't try to off-width it! The steep corner on the left side of the flake buttress marking left side of main wall. Three FHs and a optional medium cam. Rap-anchor.

Originally finished into 'Overkill' but this way keeps it independent.

Start: Start 3m R of O, just L of the wide crack.

Ridiculously popular.

Start: Start at the thin crack just R of 'Tootsie'.

Cruxy.

Start: Start between 'Regatta' and 'De Blanc'.

Corner as for FH then L under roofs and up. Big cam(s) handy.

The low crux has hard-to-place gear which regularly pops and serves out grounders. Good moves though.

Start: Start 6m L of 21CSM.

Great first half then a silly low angled slab.

Start: Start 5m L of HH.

Barely worth recording.

Start: Just L of the arete.

Light line in the middle of the wall behind Bird Wall proper and faintly initialed "F". Up double sided flake to groove and crack above. First recorded ascent: Bill Andrews, Allan Hope Jan 1987

Hard start then the crack. Scramble off.

Start: The R crack.

For a relative unknown Stan Manley sure did nab a bunch of good lines, years before anyone else showed up here.

Start: Start at the left crack.

1. 30m (17) Hard start, then crack to ledge.

2. 20m (-) Upwards to large ledge and continue through the top overhang.

Up the corner of ZM, then the line 1.5m L through the roof.

Start: Start as for ZM.

Fun well protected climbing that's easier than it looks. Start is the back L corner of the cave on the Western side (facing The Wall of Fools). Traverse the break out L to the arête past a few medium to large size cams). R and up the face and over the small rooflet to a lower off past 4FHs.

Not much pro to start.

Start: On the right side of the "arch" which dominates the 'Wall of Fools' is a vertical seam leading up to a right-facing corner. Start half a metre right of the seam.

Well named in retrospect... you'll probably experience some of this considering that the write-up is based on the old track!

Start: On the wall to the left of the steps just before the old campsite is reached. Follow the wall for about 15m and you get to the initial "I".

The seam then step L to jam up to ledge. Traverse off left. A 'Direct Finish' up the slab has been done.

Start: Start as for 'Red Alert'.

The seam, then continue rightwards.

Start: Start 3m R of 'Bowler' at painted square.

The steep arête L of VE past 3FHs

Start as for Cradle Snatcher. Take the steep right leading crack almost to the arête. Step back left and and up seams near the arête.

Start 2m right of Borderline. Up the steep face crossing the horizontal break. Spaced protection.

Face 2m right of Clan of the Pooh Bear. Go up the middle, finishing direct.

Front of small buttress 5m R of Mongoose, straight up, finishing through small roof.

Up to flake 1 right of Grabbin' Runners then up and right.

A chossy, vegetated and overhanging diagonal.

Start: 2m right of 'Loaded'. Marked.

A total sandbag with a finish that is rather exciting.

Start: Starts 3m right of 'Kalashnikov'.

Easy sport arete. The first half was originally climbed on trad (and called No Fixed Gear) and was later accidentally retrobolted and renamed 'Amnesia'.

Start: You can't miss this overbolted slabby arete just right of 'Freedom Fighter'.

A good slabby line but a little mossy in places. Protecton can be fiddly to find and place in certain sections.

Start: Starts about 10m right of 'Paperclip' on ledge accessed by scrambling up under chockstone.

Variant middle to 'Orange Blossom Special'.

Start: From the block at the base of 'Orange Blossom Special', traverse about 2m out left then straight up via yellow streak to join Orange Blossum Special at the left end of the roof. A #5 hex protects the high crux.

Struggles to stay away from the jugs on the left. Another pleasant slab but has silly bolting with huge runouts.

Start: Starts 5m right of 'The Wide Crack Adventure', but on top of ledge accessed via chockstones under block. You can also start as for 'The Wide Crack Adventure' and head rightwards at 5m.

A good line which unfortunately doesn't live up to expectations due to soft rock.

Start: Takes the obvious broken crack that splits the north face of the 'Guernica Block' about 5m right of 'That Fearful Vortex'. Triples of hand and fist crack sized cams are useful. Rap off manky sling below mega choss.

A left hand variant to 'Jurassic Park'. Follow that climbs dog-leg crack until it forks. Follow the left hand crack system which curves left then right, then finish up the headwall via a black streak directly up the start of the climb. A big wire in a hole between two hand holds protects the final headwall.

Excellent fun climbing despite its daunting appearance.

Start: Up the dog leg crack left of 'A Long Way From Verona'. Continue straight up over a bulge then traverse up right 4m until a vertical weakness-come-crack leads to the top.

Sit starts just right of 'Sesame Superhighway' and climbs the series of jugs to a high finish. Descend via the righthand side.

Average at best. A route that rises diagonally rightward, ending up on the big ledge as for 'Gunboat Diplomacy'.

Start: Starts from the boulder under a chossy roof on the east facing cliff 10m or so around the corner from 'Gunboat Diplomacy'. The details of this route are still as fresh as daisies in the memories of the first ascensionists.

Uninspiring chossy ramble which seems to share the start 10m with Mods? What Mods?

Start: Start from the boulder.

1. 25m (17) Up the slabby wall to head left through the break in the bulge (poor rock) to belay on a ledge.

2. 15m (17) Up left to, and then up, the final short headwall.