Routes in Australia for selected grade

Worthless.

Start: Weakness left of Hide And Seek

Small and appealing thin crack around R from Ringtail. Good climbing, reachy at start, be careful of some detatched blocks.

Start up short corner left of arete then up wall keeping left of arete.

Start: 2m left of Warrant (? which is where?).

Good climbing up obvious line taking overhang on right. Sustained in upper half.

Start: Start below thin, right-leaning corner towards left end of face.

Cracked arete at left end of upper tier.

This was written up as a new route "Foxy Lady" in Argus May 2005, however that was based on thinking that "Dead Fox" was the major corner taken by "Eternal Youth".

Lots of Traversing.

Start: Start 3 metres left of 'Marmalade'.

1. 10m (17) Go up to and traverse right beneath roof and on to a ledge between 'Butternut Snap' and 'Benign'.

2. 20m (17) From right end of ledge amble diagonally right (as for Benign) and continue around nose to a ledge beneath an orange corner.

3. 20m (17) The corner, exiting left near the top.

Great line with hard start. You would have to assume that 'Zorba' was an easier start to this line.

Start: Start at the main line on the wall, 1.5 metres left of 'Zorba'.

Start: Start at line 1 metre left of arete and 3 metres right of the sloppy initial Z.

1. 33m (18) Up V-line, step right towards arete and up to horizontal break. Traverse left for 2 metres till a slight weakness leads up through bulges. Alternatively, continue the traverse left to belay in 'Zorba' and then step and and travers right to arete.

2. 15m (-) Crack with awkward start.

Start up Perpertual Motion, ignore any ideas of going right and left and head straight up the crack then the wall above until you join crack on arete and up arete to top.

Harder than it looks.

Start: Start 10 metres left of Boogie Up 'The Nose' at a vague, lichenous groove below a jutting arete.

Direct version of 'Snorkler'. Needs checking out and cleaning up but could well be very good climb. Have given it a star for luck

Start: Start at the open groove as for 'Snorkler'.

1. 15m (17) Climb up to the bulge at 10 metres and go directly into the base of the 'Snorkler' corner.

2. 45m (17) Up the 'Snorkler' corner and continue up the corner rather than traversing off left. Move up lichenous walls and finish up an open corner.

Interesting and challenging crack climbing at the grade, a few bulges, and minimal grotty stuff. The last little overhang brings you into a bit of moss fest.

Steep jamming just left of 'Barleycorn'.

The crack in the middle of the wall right of 'Carthaginian',

Follow line up right from start of 'True Grit'. From stance on arete traverse left and go up first weakness.

Bridge up next corner right of 'Carthaginian' then left to wide crack above.

The left-hand line on the wall, 3 metres left of 'Kickapoo Joy Juice', has a good start but breaks down quickly.

Good-looking thin crack to flake near top.

Start: Start at crack 5 metres left of Piss.

Up line behind conifer into corner then right through bulges.

Start: Scramble up right from 'Goose Neck' to a terrace and line behind large conifer.

Mirror image of 'Dark Ages'.

Start: Corner around left from 'Dark Ages' on other side of block.

Looks nice and straightforward, but the climbing is quite funky - if not prehistoric. Step right to complete the line at top of corner.

Start: Left-hand corner in back of bay.

Uniform 1" (that's 2 cm to the rest of you) crack all the way.

Start: Bulging corner 10m right of 'Dark Ages'.

Probably the best climb on the crag. It used to have a star so it's been given back for luck.

Overhanging jam-crack on lowest buttress.

Locate the prominent nose. Several metres right is a steep open corner.

This was originally called 'True Grit' but there is already a climb of that name nearby at Campbell's Kingdom.

Start: Around right of Hook, Line and Sinker.

Start in middle of west side and climb up slab and through weakness of main overhang (using hold up right) and finish through projecting shelf at top.

Easy start of the climb to smoothish round overhang, climb directly up, placing climb just left of Casper. Placements are scarce til high so the risk of a deck fall is high temporarily. Was originally done with only nuts and slings, hence the name. The last few metres are made a lot less risky with cams, but it's also an easy top out.

Face around corner 2m left of 'Rohans Route', a few balancy crimp moves gets you to the top.

A hard and bold mantle at the start reaches jugs (crux) and easy hauling to top.

Same start as for 'Gormet', only stepping onto thin face after reaching first block, then following the break on left-hand side of face.

Steep and juggy sport warm-up at the far left end of the cave. Starts halfway across the approach traverse at single u-bolt belay. Up through orange jugs and then grey cracked face. Runout between bolt 1 and 2 is a bit scary.

A contrived left varient of 'Fot as Huck'. Start slightly left of 'Fot as Huck'. Up to thread then stick left as you climb the jugs out to the left avoiding the bolted line. Watch for explodo jugs.

Great easy sport route! Left most bolted line on right edge of roofy section. Big jugs up slightly overhung wall finishing at bolt anchor slightly to the right. Retrobolted - originally a trad route.

Starts in the shallow corner 2m R of DD. Follow the crack system up and slightly R, stepping back left as it steepens. Originally lead on fiddly trad. Still a touch licheny.

Back on the lower level. The left hand line in the big orange scoopy wall. Tricky start moves to shelf, then glorious overhanging jugs to double ring anchor.

Extremely pleasant moves with an obvious one move crux. Follow the grey streak diagonally to arête moving right at the horizontal break. Up the headwall to clip & lower.

Sandy grey face and the arête left of Cherub. Head straight up over multiple horizontal breaks skipping the second pitch to finish at Cherub's anchor. Could do with a retro/ rename, any takers?

Either traverse in or go nuts and cut loose at the start. Long, consistent and absorbing at the grade. Named after some particularly memorable sandwiches. Stick clip advised for first bolt.

Gently bold but who doesn't like some cinnamon spice? Line of RBs right of The Cubans. Start on the blunt arête and meet up with the right trending ramp. Mind the shallow ledges on the way to the well protected crux and the victory jugs.

The next line to the R linking into CBB up high. More superb climbing. Stick to the left at the crux.

Nice slabbing staying mostly on the dark weathered streak past the bolts to clip & lowers.

Five metres past the little waterfall that marks the right end of the Smokers Corner area. Perplexing start to good slabbing, the line of FH's.

A singular brain cell. Classic R facing dihedral. Starts from the ledge and goes direct up brilliant finger and hand jams, now meticulously scrubbed for your consumption! Worth bringing in a single rack of cams and some wires for. Belay/ lower from Beefeater anchor or top rope it after.

First bolted line left of the boulder. Steep start to bulges to slab. Rings at belay.

Middle ring bolted line. Steep start past the chin to bulges. Rings at belay.

Pocketed face on average sandy rock that stays dry in rain to the right of ‘The Jump Line’. Hard extension through the bulges is an open project waiting for a strong climber.

Nice finger jamming with good pro. Follow the small crack left of the bolted route. Rap off TFG anchor.

The following routes are all in the sun from mid afternoon. The first bolted line on the main wall. Reachy!

And the Lord said thou shalt install only the finest grade of steel. Starts off the top of the block.

The black line. Can be a little wet in winter.

The ‘far right’ line on the cliff with a thin start.

Starts 3m right of GAFTO. Start at orange crack between tree and small cave. Move through cracks and slightly left, up past bollard to easier ground.

In memory of my Mother who passed late 2006. Obvious V crack with slight roof left of OP&OH. Start as for H.V., traverse right into crack past bolt plate. Follow crack line into roof, move left under roof following crack to top

Around right of the cave is an overhanging corner. Good jamming.

Accidently retro-bolted and written up by C.Barrett in '07. 5m right of 'Homebrew', good moves up orange wall. Up through double pock hole past FH to sidepulls, and straight up above horizontal break.

The only line at anything like the grade through bands of overhangs right of 'The Narrow Door'. Exposed. Start at foot of R side of main (W) face, right of ND. 1. 50m Ramp then broken ground to ledge 4m below small but prominent guano-stained cave (landmark). 2. 30m Step up L on to lip of overhang, then traverse up and left above ceiling until you can go steeply up to diagonal break leading L to ledge almost at L arete. 3. 40m (crux) "The only way out" appears to be the seam above, which leads to steep flake-crack then easy ground.

This starts below the large roof left of Venus.

1. 15m Head up the corner to the roof, then head right to belay.

2. 30m Climb diagonally left to the corner-line above the roof then climb this and the steepenings to the top.

1. 15m Start 1m left of Venus. Head diagonally left up the wall to a stance on the left arete that is level with the huge ceiling on the left, and belay as for Elle’s Belles.

2. 45m (Crux) Head up the line above to an overhang past the bulge. Traverse right under this, then go back diagonally left above it to a position 3m below the summit ceiling and join Elle’s Belles at the top.

Start at Hobson Undertakers. On the right of the cubic block is a crack. Climb it then go up the centre of the face above. Take plenty of small wires for protection.

Start as for AUNT GLAD. Up to the bushy ledge then follow the L hand flake on the R wall for AUNT GLAD to finish through the overhang. Steven Barnett, Anthony Wregg, Bruce McMurdo 18/05/91

10m right of Parlour Game there in an undercut arete. Climb the thin crack 5m left of this arete, climbing up to a horizontal break at 5m. Head right to the arete then go up this and the steep head-wall above.

Starts left of Piss n' Wind. Up easy ground to steepening orange face, following discontinuous cracks and breaks to small V-corner. Up grey rock above, trending right at 35m to finish as for Piss n' Wind.

Starts around 50m right of Dead or Olive, at the buttress of good rock topped by a roof on its left-hand edge. Climb easy ground to orange at 15m, climbing it at left end. Head up orange streak, then onto grey slab above, exiting grey roof at top at right-hand end.

Up breaks to move left on to ledge at 5m. Left to crack and up to ledge. Rap from DRB

Start: At far left end of main cliff on arête left of steep, orange wall(Energise your soul wall).

Middle of wall to ledge at 3m, then directly up.

Start at foot of corner on right edge of face. Up its left arete to overhang. Step up left, then directly up.

Starts just left of Glue Mountains. Up easily to first bolt, over steepening and then follow left orange streak

Blue mountains like climbing on small edges. Route on the clean wall between 'Violent Crumble' and Brush with Authority. Starts in the trees up on to ledge to face which gets steeper near the top.

Sustained wall climbing on gritty crimpers and sloping horizontals. Feels almost Blue Mtns like. 7 bolts - 5 U bolts & 2 FHs and a double ring lower-off.

Far right bolted route. Gray slab then orange wall with pockets and finish left up flake crack.

First ascent at night in the pouring rain. May need a little brushing on the upper holds. Climbs the right edge of the Ravine Cave, with a slight left trend across an exposed face. Hard start then difficulty eases considerably once the left facing flake is reached at the half way point.

R-leading diagonal for 2m. Delicately up and follow L line.

Start: On the steep, yellow buttress most prominent from the road, just behind (south of) Pangaea Wall. Start 4m L of undercut arete.

Balance R from vegetated chimney for 2m, then up through bulge and up groove.

Start: On a compact, bulging buttress below and R of the highest bluff of 'Pangaea Walls'. Start at distinctive pink-stained rock on L, below tiny roof.

A bit of a novelty.

Sustained face climbing.

Start: Start up the bulging wall 2m L of 'Future Legend'.

The best climb on the crag. The third corner.

Pretty dodgy.

Line of U’s left of Dirty Bomb Up through juggy overlap to more great jugs in middle of wall with techy crux at top

Best easy route at this crag. Fun climbing and surprisingly cool holds. Starts about 5m R of UF, steep start on great holds then up the face looking for the cool pockets.

Not quite Nuclear. Fun climbing that starts up first 2 U bolts of Alpha Decay then steps left on RBs to anchors just R of the arête at the top.

The largest and smallest cams will be handy for the exciting finish.

Start: Start just R of 'Blues Maker'.

Unobtrusive but quite pleasant. Crack 10m R of 'Perceived Freedom'. Approach from the R and walk L to end of ledge. Up with a tricky start and thin midsection.

Bolt left of Pegleg

Surprisingly good climbing for this section of the wall. 5m R of Explorer’s Groove, the second seam R of EG. Up to and up seam/crack to ledge, slightly L and up head wall via FH to ledge. DBB and abseil.