Routes in Australia for selected grade

A fun pitch that tackles the left side of the Panzer pinnacle/turret. A nice finishing pitch to Omaha Beach.

From the belay after the second pitch of Panzer climb directly up into overhanging corner. Mantle up to reach a second overhang protected by a steep vertical crack. Careful of the loose rock at the top. Belay on top of the pinnacle.

Hard diagonal with tricky start 5 metres right of 'Chuckle Chuckle'.

10m along the ledge leading to Amok is an old callitris growing diagonally. Behind it are 2 cracks ending in a bulge. This is the left one.

Excellent clean jamming after a thrutchy start. Originally climbed with "the aid of two slings on door jammed nuts".

Start 6m R of bent over old tree. Climb up to three pockets keeping left of rock stack on right at 3 metres. Move diagonally right using horizontals to ledge. Finish directly up shallow corner after slab section. Build anchor and stay roped up to traverse right to Spastical Cats rap anchors.

Good slabby climbing with an enjoyable finish. Start: High micro-cam to start. Step off block and pull arete onto ledge. Up slab past a bolt to headwall. Move 2m R and up.

Surprisingly good wall climbing 2m R of 'Moving Out'. The initial wall (above the undercut arete of 'Moving Out' is bold but has positive holds. Take a few small cams for the first half of the route. The upper headwall is the same as for 'Moving Out'.

The T-shaped roof on this is a prominent landmark on the track to Kitten Wall.

Good steep wall climbing up narrow face between Hyperbola and Black Cat.

Start as for "Follow Your Nose" then climb straight up from horizontal on jugs to a crux mantle at top.

A good easy route on a great wall deserves a star. Pitch 2 is really good and eats cams. Great on a warm day.

Start: Down and right of the other routes is a prominent crack leading to a bottomless chimney.

1. 13m (17) Crack and chimney to terrace.

2. 29m (16) Easily up on right for 3 metres to the big diagonal ledge/break. Traverse down left to the end of the break and step left onto the wall. Continue up steep, juggy wall right of "Going For The One".

Pretty good climbing and protection. Start just right of second pitch of 'Barbed'. Access via abseil anchor of 'Not Invented Here'. Easily up to the big break. Straight up the short overhanging wall, 1 metre right of a left-leading diagonal line, to a good flake. Up 3 metres to top of flake, step right and up water-washed streak to little bulge and up to easier ground. Continue straight up through bulges at top.

A good pitch but a bit out of place with only easy options for approach and finish.

Start at second belay; this is also the second belay of "Beau Geste", at the top of the neat little corner.

Climb orange wall up and right to arete and continue up arete until it joins the original line (crack curving in from left) and eases. Continue easily to belay.

This great little pitch is not really more direct but it is a good finish to this route, especially if done with the Grade 17 variant, or to "Artificial Insemination". Tiny cams are essential.

Start: Start around left of the top pitch of "Beau Geste" at a prominent right curving corner. Climb the arete and face left of the corner.

A fairly good direct line with a few nice sections and an exciting finish around the overhang at the top of the face. Big cams needed on first 2 pitches.

Even better if finished via Noddy's face 'A Whale of a Time Direct Finish' around left of last pitch of 'Beau Geste'.

Start from the terrace, at the base of Beau Geste's second pitch corner.

1. 20m (13) Follow right-leading ramp, then wide crack to ledge. There other belay options higher, including a tiny stance just below the roof but this is probably the most convenient spot.

2. 25m (18) Continue up the line to the roof with a difficult section not far below the roof. Exposed moves out to and around the lip of the major roof-crack.

3. 30m (7) Final ptich of 'Beau Geste'.

Start: Start as for 'Harlequin Cracks'.

1. 15m (18) Take short orange corner just right of main line. Step right at roof and up to peregrine ledge. Seam to right of corner is also grade 18 but mossy)

2. 33m (-) Pull over into line above and follow all way, with slight step left half-way up, on orange rock.

Very good, but beware the runout halfway up the 1st pitch. Some say that the poor protection is not a problem given the straightforward nature of the climbing. However there is also the case of a leader who backed off this and went on to 'Orestes' for his next, successful, climb.

Start 4m L of 'Salami'.

1. 35m (17) Not well protected through half height, although technically not too hard. Crack to ledge at 3m. Take fading crack then face to a ledge. Traverse 2m R to huge flake, then meander R over blocks to belay at the top of Salami's chimney.

2. 15m (16) The crack up the middle of the buttress between 'Salami' and 'Salami DF', with a fun roof. Belay on terrace, or continue up easy ground for another 15m.

A variant that links P1 of Calabrese into P2 of Salami.

1. 35m (17) Up Calabrese P1 until the comfy ledge at about 20m (optional belay, as for Calabrese). Instead of stepping right to the flake as for Calabrese, continue up the thin intermittent crack, to join the sharp undercut flake on P2 of Salami. Once past this, build an anchor.

2. 20m (-) Dawdle to the top.

Start up the second pitch of Gardener's Delight and finish up Spanish Eyes.

Nice line with fiddly pro.

Thin line up face just around right of Cundall's Arete.

Good route but runout.

Start: Slab route immediately right (around corner) from Pooh Sticks.

A few jugs then run-out to first RB, which is clipped while leaning well L off poor handholds and facing a possible groundfall. There's another RB then DRB lower-off.

Sustained face climbing, spoiled a bit by the big ledge at half-height. Wires and cams up to #1 plus #3.5 cam.

Start at black face just right of 'Beached Wails'.

Up face past 2 FH then move right and up to ledge. Step back up left onto the face, up and left to middle of face. Up past FH to break, step left and up to anchor. Some people have had trouble pulling the rope so be careful where it runs over the edge.

Start: As for A Gift From The Gods.

1. 25m (18) Diagonally right up moss to ledge. Climb wall above a faint rock scar, thence up left into lichenous weakness and back right to stance.

2. 25m (-) Straight up, heading right at top.

Not worth the star. Protection is a bit fiddly to get though it is good on the hardest moves.

Start: Originally started as for A Gift From The Gods but is better as for 'Dingbats'.

1. 20m (17) Go up to ledge. Step right and go straight up compact orange rock being careful not to stray right into 'Dingbats'.

2. 30m (-) Up slightly left on good rock to easy finish. Better would be to traverse easily right for 10 metres to the Shiraleee abseil anchor.

Start at short crack 6 metres right of 'The Shiralee', up blank wall past pocket (crux and no gear) to crack in overlap then up wall. Quite good climbing on spaced gear. Traverse R to chains on I Am An Expert on Bananas

Takes the deep crack not quite reaching the ground right of Crumpet then step left and up wall past 2 bolts. Traverse off to anchor on Banana Expert

Take right hand line through overlap right of Tallness (the flake on left line is hollow), up past bolt through bulge then easy ground to nice wall. Step left and finish as per Tallness past 2 bolts. Traverse R to chains.

Up wall left of Unauthorised Mice to small ledge, crank through bulge and up. Fiddly to protect below bulge and on top wall. There is a good cam above bulge on the left that you can't see from under it.

Seam a couple of metres right of headwall of 'Touch-Type' and just left of the finish of The Singing Wire.

Nice climbing all the way; a fitting companion route to 'Touchstone'. Follows a direct, continuous crack system in three distinct parts. Some of the first pitch is not new, but the whole climb as described is a new conception.

Start: Start 3m right of Leaden

Echo.

1. 40m (17) Climb diagonal crack up the right wall. Continue up line when it steepens and becomes thinner until a hand traverse left allows you to step across the main corner to a ledge on the left. Follow the right-hand line (the easier left-hand line is Leaden Echo) and flake system over a little roof. Continue up flake and wall to ledge (Leaden Echo's second belay).

2. 20m (17) Up balancy seam in wall straight above belay. This is left of Leaden Echo's final corner and right of Kieran's variant finish to 'Touchstone'.

Good overhang approache by abseil to final belay of The Leaden Echo.

Start up the last pitch of The Leaden Echo and then take crack through roof on right.

A good approach to 'The Golden Echo'.

Start: Start as for 'A Taste of Honey' Direct Start.

This was the original route but has moprhed into a variant.

Interesting climbing through some exciting territory.

Start just left of Max and go up and slightly further left up overhanging wall. When angle eases, head up to final roof crack.

Start L of Hurts and climb up to join Hurts where it steps L.

Good, pumpy wall.

The original name was:

climbing was super

on long steep juggy arete

loose jug in my hand

Start: The steep left arete of the 'Taliban Airways' wall.

Follow the black trench up and out through the offwidth roof.

Rap station installed.

Short crack. Very short.

Start: Start at the right hand end of the wall that contains Lou.

Does your pussy do the dog? 10m.

Start: Start: 8m up the hill from 'Because It's There' at point where climbing looks possible. Below end of horizontal break that splits the cliff. Starts off blocky ledge and heads left through left slanting crack, then straight up to top

Feisty little overhang must be negotiated via jugs to pleasant face climbing, exit through large obvious groove to the top

Up cracks then through 'interesting' headwall.

Start: Start: On the next tall buttress down the gully is a wall with an obvious crack on the right.

Not waving, drowning.

Start: Start at the left hand edge of the wall, below a smooth black(ish) slab, 2m right of chimney/corner.

Thin seam on black streak at left end of wall, using left arete where necessary.

Up diagonal line right until short corner on right of the phallus. Up this behind Phallus exiting around side. Now mount phallus and ejaculate onself through roof. Continue upwards to distinct orange mini-scoop with crack through middle. Don't escape right or left but bridge through roof to belay. Finish up Sweet Surrender's second pitch or do Where's Merilyn?

Start: 3m Right of the Verge.

A pretty good route but escapable in parts.

Begin just left of the big tree.

1. 25m (18) Undercling to start then up flakes and cracks to big ledge.

2. 35m (17) Go left into lowest orange scoop. Tackle this on the right and into smaller scoop above, then up past another two bulges.

Rigt of Sweet Surrender's first pitch, climb to roof, move right around this and up to 'Vandal' terrace.

Used to be vastly undergraded at 14 though older masters of the thrutch maintain that the grade was OK.

The route originally started up the diagonal ramp from 'Vagabond' but noone does that now.

Start in the gully just above the tree, directly below the big orange corner.

1. 15m (13) Pull onto wall and climb groove to large ledge at base of corner.

2. 15m (14) The great corner leads to another ledge.

3. 15m (17) Hard moves into the undercut corner and bridge to the top.

Originally done with two pitches, the rap anchor at the end of the first pitch turns it into a good single pitch climb. It also comes into the shade reasonably early.

Start at flake 5 metres up and right of Vandal. Layback the flake left then climb the right wall of Vandal. Ignore Vandal's first belay and continue steeply up crack in right wall to ledge and bolt anchors 5 metres back. The second pitch went up a little then up the easy arete.

A novelty girdle of the right wall with a jump in the tail. Start below the chockstones at the head of the gully. Up right wall to horizontal break and traverse right all the way to Opening and follow that to terrace. Jump the gap and go up to chains (or use Leasehold's chains).

Good for a hot day. Seem to remember that it is a bit pushy. Climb ramp 1 metre right of Pick And Lose then traverse right to below shallow overhanging corner just left of arete and up this corner.

The line at the left end of the ledge, starting up an easy corner that is just right of Anchors Away. Good steep climbing on clean rock. The name is referring to the recent sandbagging activities due to flood and is not related to the grade.

It's not 19 and it's not at Frog. Start as for Humbug. Follow roof around right into low angle terrain then up obvious corner to ledge and up wall on left.

Originally the first pitch to Affinity (Hum Terrace) but the two are rarely done as one climb.

A girdle traverse of the left side of the wall. Start 5 metres northwardsish of most southerly conifer.

Up breaks L of red streak at top of Intrepid Gully.

Direct finish to The Second Affinity. Go straight through roof or left and up.

Absorbing climbing on immaculate rock. Originally the second pitch of a 2-pitch route; the first pitch is now The First Affinity. Start 5 metres down and right of large conifer.

Start as for Hum. Where Hum heads off R step L to slot under overlap. Pull through overlap and straight up with a steep finish.

Straight up to the break with not enough gear.

Wall 2 metres to right of FTRTTS with big pockets at 2 metres.

Go up 1 metre right of Up In Arms and right to overhang, step right, up.

Nice but a bit bold.

Bold groove 2 metres right of pitch 2 Dante's Inferno.

Up weakness to the right of Side Show following left-facing flake system to the roof. Head left along under this until an exit can be made straight up to rap station. For a more exciting finish (still grade 18), go straight through the weakness in the roof

Start: Two metres right of Side Show, a vague "E" can be found scratched on the rock

Easier and airier than it looks. Start up Old Mates for 5m to the base of the main corner. Move R onto orange nose and rock onto blank slab. Continue diagonally R over orange bulges (lots of pro, it’s above you), crossing Gene Vicious, to R end of big roof. Finish direct up clean cut grey dihedral. Wander 5m L to rap rings, or top out.

At the right side of the cliff at a little arching flake line. This is about 12 metres right of 'Small Change' and just left of the second dead tree from the left.

Start at right-hand big dead pine tree, about 5 metres right of 'First Night Nerves'.

Wall to overhang and blunt arete above, veering slightly right near top.

Start: Start just right of large tree at left end of Cliche Wall.

Short hand-crack above small cave on right side of Cliche Wall.

Where the seam thins down, climb wall on the left until the line can be regained.Onwards up line to top.

Start: Thin seam between 'Rocky Road' and 'Hump The Bluey'.

Short brown corner left of Red Zinger. Verge right and over bulge. Continue via pockets.

Dubious pro. Noddy thinks this is almost identical to 'Daze Gone By' but the routes will have to be repeated to make certain.

Crack behind left-most tree and on up smooth wall.

Pumpy wall-climbing starting just right of Wee Skerrick from a block.

A wandering excursion that has not captured the imagination. Start as for The Nude Balloon Dance.

1. 24m (15) Straight up for 12 metres to left end of a ledge (This is the first pitch of The Nude Balloon Dance). Move up and right on red rock to another ledge.

2. 23m (17) Go right along ledge and up into corner of 'Serpent'. Go up 3 metres then right to arete to finish over overhang (Serpent Direct Finish).

The deep cleft isn't the problem; it's the technical crack at the finish. Start at the right-hand line in the cleft, as for Serpent.

1. 30m (15) Easily up right side of chimney to a big roof. Exit right and continue up on steep rock to a big ledge.

2. 18m (17) Up thin, left-leaning corner crack to easy ground.

1. 26m (11) Up the right arete of the Revelations cleft to big ledge.

2. 24m (17) Pull overhang between Revelations and The Bishop then trend right and up or continue up front of buttress (but be careful of huge detached blocks).

Dramatic route but the rock can be quite alarming. The route originally only had the top pitch. They scrambled up the gully to the first belay. The first pitch was originally part of Youth In Asia. The climb is often done as a single long pitch.

Start about 3 metres right of the initial C, but there's no good reason not to start a few metres further right directly below the box-chimney.

1. 20m (14) Follow right-ward arching line that leads to box-chimney. Up left side of this (careful of loose flakes on right) then exit right to ledge.

2. 25m (17) Follow v-groove up wildly-steep arete.

A good technical crux and delightful top crack. Start just left of Mum's The Word at a nice-looking crack.

Not that good, a bit loose and contrived. Start 2 metres right of Anything At All.

Go straight up, moving slightly right to a contrived, but worthwhile finish.

Start: Start as for "Hell's Bells"

A most sustained mini-route. Crack-seam on left edge of face.

A number of climbs have been done on the little pinnacles in the middle of the gully but this is the only one recorded. Up the gully, on the pinnacle opposite 'Prelate', on the side facing the carpark.

Through the overhang then balancy moves to top.

Testy overhang.

Start: At top (right-hand) end of wall facing into the gully is obvious overhang with an unusual peanut-shaped jug above.

Up faint corner then swing onto the peanut and pull up the tricky wall above.

Old-fashioned jamming up the line through a couple of overhangs. Be wary of loose blocks near the top. Start immediately left of Bangla Desh at obvious crack-line.

A series of sustained moves.

1. Start as for The Parsons Nose Direct Start and continue directly through overlap and seam and up steep wall. Belay at ledge.

2. Move left through right facing corner and tricky overhang a few metres right of The Great White Hope.

An enormous pile of bat guano. Start below middle of big diagonal crack and scramble up to a ledge with an enormous pile of bat guano beneath roof.

The full name is "Regarding Apocalyptic 'Simpleton' 'Simpleton' Fun Penis Shooter Shrug Woof Hello". Despite this, it is not a great climb. Start 2m left of Through the Dardanelles.

A bit contrived.

Usually top-roped.

An exciting flake though maybe only just scrapes in for the star. Start as for The Devil's Advocate.

More very nice climbing which is quite satisfying even though it squibs the obvious direct finish, Morgul Can't, which is just that bit more serious. Start at easy corner 3 metres left of Salem.

Sustained technical climbing on beautiful rock. Shallow flake-corner 12 metres left of Gulp.

Start as for Gulp.

1. 38m (17) Direct past peg on Gulp to the grass. Straight up wall, starting up a thin crack. Veer up left to another small wall. Climb central crack in wall, drift a fraction left then finish centrally. Continue easily (to obvious horizontal overlap).

2. 12m (-) Pull over overlap and finish left of centre via square cut headwall.

A funky little thing. Double ropes help and a #4 cam helps to ignore unnecessary atrocious bolt. Start at the right edge of the deep cleft of Belltower. Up to horizontal and traverse 5 metres right to layback crack to ledge. Up crack past old bolt to chimney.

Strange climbing up the guano-stained scoop with minimal protection at the crux. There's a fairly worthless direct start (23) 3 metres to the right past a bolt (John Gandy, Simon Carter 11-89).

Leaning corner at left end of 'Hide and Seek' wall, finish up wall.