Routes in Australia for selected grade

Hope you have been training your crimp strength on 8mm’s. Squat start on the left side of the bloc, matched on low recognizable crimp rail, now traverse leftwards into “8 months of Winter”. Finish as this.

Strong stand start- up the twin seams, trending left to the vertical slot. Powerful pulls, to an airy mantle out.

Sit start on poor left rail, up on crimps, sidepulls and jugs to the left. One of the best hard lines on the Granite Belt.

Just like the visionary alpinist himself, Wild, bold and technical, on some of Donnellys best rock.

Great featured corner and arete to navigate across and up.

Hard moves through the seam grants you with a huge jug. Tough on the feet and fingers. Just plain tough.

Tough exit off a difficult face. Grade needs confirmation.

Stand start with obvious good sloper LH and RH pencil thin crimp. Punchy move up, then long, reachy moves up the high face.

Stand start on the decent but hard to use hold on the arete. Slap up the rails to the top.

Give yourself a run up for this incredible french start. Then find a way to reach the good jug using the slanted sloper rail

Was first sent by topping it out as a highball but it’s a truely a one move wonder so it adds nothing at all to the grade. Feel free to take the send once you hit the jug from the first move if highballs really aren’t your thing. It is really satisfying to top out though!

To the left of Pink Bits. Stand start with LH fang and RH sidepull. A very long move up and leftwards! Very reach dependant. * Has not been repeated since two large flakes have been removed*

Stand start with use of the detached rock, with high crimps and figure out the puzzle up the cool cracked, bulgy face to a committing, intense mantle. Thoughtful stacking of pads are needed for the tilted landing.

Start in the small gully, matched low on the rail. Move up to a row of crimps and throw to the lip and mantle to top.

Oliver Rickford

Kieran Pates

Start as low as possible on the beautiful arete feature. Up and right to a tough top out. Some holds have broken since the first ascent - it was originally graded V7

Super fun boulder sequence into confusing fuckery.

packs a hell of a punch for a short climb, feels like bouldering. start with the first 2 bolts clipped in, long stick clip required to reach the second.

start standing in front of the tree then head slightly right and upwards to some punchy and super rad climbing

Still a project, Thin and wild. Shares the last two bolts and anchor of Deer Hallucinations.

Prepare your tendons. Your gonna have a bad time if you clip the bolts for Chicken Crimpys, stick to the right bolts

Start at the base of the roof on a big jug and out to the big jug on lip. Drop off here - though it could be linked into "Nick's Stolen Roof Top".

Start as Holy Matrimony and then follow the line of pockets across the roof to a tricky crux. Out the cave via jugs to a committing mantle.

Sit start, climb to the lip with some fun and big movements traverse right then topping out above the other boulder. Tricky to spot and pad the top-out. Previously undocumented but named 'Cameron's v7' which was the same line although didn't top out it just walked off on the other boulder, seen in the Due North climbing video by SB. Found and climbed with top-out by Andy Lampard.

SS up arete.

Sit start crossed on diagonal crimps. Make your way left and up on a series of diagonal edges and an underling.

Sit start with slopey edge low on arete and the hold just above big undercling. Slap slap slap and finish as for the stand start.

Start in the corner, move left and finish up arete. Trust those feet!

Start on set of small crimps, traverse left through big moves on good edges, then finish as for Tadpole.

Start low on the arete and on lowest good edge in the steep, compress your way through the sickness to glory.

Crouch start on crimps, campus up and move left through edges and a pinch before throwing for the jug. Stunner!

The extension to Intuition. Start ~2m underneath roof with good undercut edges above the freestanding boulder below. Using this boulder for feet, move through series of edges on roof to gain the sloping lip. Traverse L through crux into -and finish - as for Intuition.

Start LH good edge and RH small nubbin crimp, move right and up on incut sidepulls.

Starting from wobbly block in the corner of the rooflet, work out right and over the lip via slopey holds.

The wobbly block recently came out, but the boulder will still go at a similar grade.

Callum Mather

Start on LH crimp slot and deep RH two finger pocket. Up on pocket and crimps, finish as for Squish 'em.

Start low matched on deep scoop in bottom left corner of boulder. Move right via big moves and finish as for Venus.

Currently unclimbable due to recent flooding. Would need to dig out the new landing to access the start holds.

Sit start with obvious low jugs below the large, rounded and vertical sidepull. Climb through the steepness to gain sloping edges at base of the headwall, finishing up the scooped slab with opposing vertical rails.

Cameron Whycherley Glen Hayford Callum Mather

Start as for Golden Age but escape left via big move to the slopey rail. Mantle as for Golden Age.

Sitstart on double underclings, move up through crack (tape up - painful!). Exit without using adjacent boulder. Good features for topout.

Approach from Rex Smeal Park (see Approach).

Start as for Snappy but immediately break left, following the seam to the arete through a set of small crimps and a big move. Roll over and top out up slab.

Sit start on good flake, make your way out the scoop via underclings. Follow the lip left before mantling up the nothingness.

Add the sit-start, with the lower of the two left-hand sidepulls and a right-hand sidepull barely off the ground, for a tough, thin and sustained problem.

Sit-start the left-hand arete of the steepness. Starts with right-hand pinch and left-hand on arete. Up into Global. Two pads used for the sit-start on first ascent.

Lower start to “Rice Bubbles” on side pull and low knob.

An arete with fantastic body tension.

The steep highball arête on the top L side of the boulder. Up via underclings and slopers to a crux rockover at about half height.

A broken foothold has made this a little harder. Sit start (you may need to crouch if you are too short) off LH pinch and RH crimp. Up via good edges with big moves. Classic.

Super classic arête from the low start adds 4 moves (starting position shown in guidebook).

Crimpy sit start with diagonal LH and small RH. Straight up. Hard.

The obvious steep arête with two cruxes, the higher of which is pretty terrifying.

Tips, underclings and tiny scoops - hard!

SS 1m L of ‘High Society” awaits a ropeless ascent. Super low start that traverses in from the L below ledge is an open project.

Start with opposing sidepulls, up R to a terrible sloper and blast to the jugs.

Starting low, moving up the underclings. Shoot for the pocket on the right-hand side of the arete, then left and up the arete to finish.

Starting under overhung dihedral move up and left to the obvious rails, follow right to finish. Beautiful white rock.

Up to the double kneebar for a rest before last boulder problem.

The extension of Short Kraken.

start up Gomminator getting set in steep v groove then follow right line of u-bolts through a hard sequence boulder problem to finish on small ledge

The first unbroken route through all of "Supernova Wall". King ling encompassing 50m of Fredericks finest rock. Up "Primosanity", then power through a tough boulder problem into "Hypernova". Only question is, are you insane enough to take on this monster?

Words can't do this route justice. Undeniably a world-class, "you should travel here to do this" route. Starts with stickclipping the bolt a couple of metres right of Citizen Arcane. Technical slab/groove start to the Facebook-famous dyno. Motor up the crack and confront the "press". Seam section to monster pockets. An unforgettable finale to cap things off.

Climb Burnt Ice and go left through roof, get around the lip and finish up the face.

Climb Burnt Ice and go way right and finish on Hyperbole

Keep climbing past anchors of Revenge of the Pixies into hole and straight through roof.

True king line of Stuart, all the best parts mixed into one route! FFA was done from ground rather then from the anchors of P1 on Midlife Crisis.

A direct start to Mainstage, one main boulder right into where it all kicks off. The start of the route isn't so hard.

A boulder problem on a rope, probably height dependant. Don't forget to clip!

Slightly overhanging face climb on thin often chossy crimps. Two bolts and anchors added Jan 2018 for top half.

Start as per Immortality (couple of small cams required) following it until the sloping ledge then continue straight up. Progressively harder moves with building pump culminating with an extremely thin crux at the last bolt.

Much more than your average crimp ladder, several aesthetic rails and unlikely kneebars guide the way through this sustained quest.

A terrifying V8 somewhere in the bay.

A V8 to the R of "American Invasion #1", a sit start off the pockets into the orange scoop.

About 25m further off the beach from "American Invasion #2" is a high cracked arête, and has a sloping slab to land on.

A clean line on exceptionally solid rock with intense crimps and pockets.

Climb the bolted crack above the Meditations belay and continue up and across Meditations when that route is reached.

Sit start on low twin undercling blobs, fire through good holds to large underclings. Monster throw to lip then a technical exit left and up slab. Classic!

Climbs the initial boulder problem start of Olympus, then breaks left through the main roof (instead of avoiding it - see 'Olympus') to join 'No Mustard On Withdrawal' at its crux. Continue up headwall then trend right to arete and climb to the Gladiator chain.

Starts as for Fred Radford then takes the Following a Feltch finish, ending at the chain of Gladiator.

The hardest route in Morialta. Boulder problem start through low roof above boulder (stick clip bolt shared with Olympus), 2m left of Pussy Cats. Join Following a Feltch through big roof then cut back right around arete via another bouldery sequence. Finish at loweroff shared with Kiss My Brain.

IP to the roof, then traverse left through Payneham, past North Terrace and head through the roof of Strolling/Crossroads direct

First line of bolts on your left as you enter the Hole. Stuart Williams with the vision and Sharik Walker with the send. Originally graded 29. V10 if you boulder it.

Filipino Path boulder then traverse leftwards to the chains on Come Out Fighting

Filipino to the 2nd good pocket, then left through sidepull to finish at the Shining Path padlocked chain.