Routes in Australia for selected grade

The last route on main wall. Starts 1m R of Dogbite then keeps drifting R around onto the next face.

A short but very hard number though the bulge before the bliss traverse. Pretty much V9+ on a rope. Unrepeated??

Traverse past SKOB for another 2 bolts then bust straight up via a hard pocket boulder, crossing Light Years and up to a chain at the top of the cliff.

From the horn on To Infinity And Beyond push straight up into a hard boulder to join Light Years.. Follow this till the second last bolt then traverse right back onto TIAB and finish out right.

Great climbing, no stopper crux. Start as for Phils project

Batman to the first bolt, then boulder past 3 crux sections, involving burly powerful arm work!! enjoy! This is some of the finest steep rock in the Blue Mountains. Start just left of burnt remains of banksia tree on the steep section before the cliff swings around the corner.

Execellent steep climbing, with an awesomely body powerful crux, and all out dyno to finish it off! This route was bolted after work in summer and has some great memories attached to it! 5 meters right of bloodshot , around the corner. Batman to the first bolt and go!! Back jump to clean

Up the corner with difficulty.

Don’t let the average route name put you off, this route is mega.

Varied and pumpy start up God's Gift to Wart Hogs to the double 7th bolts, clip the left ring and one more before the big dynamic crux and continued hard moves to a final punch.

Starts up gods gift then breaks right at the third. Steady climbing with plenty of good holds to a frustrating hard crux and more simple climbing above. The dreaded last move redpoint is above which is common with all the finishes in this part of the wall.

Another long pumper with a dynamic pouce at the crux. Climbs really well and is much steeper then it looks.

An old abandon project by Dr Chris, recently fully bolted and freed by Steve. Hard boulder down low to a sustained head wall.

Hard start on "jugs" then great long wall above, reportedly very good.

A short boulder problem above and left of Stop Gear anchors.

The overhung face just right of the waterfall on the left end of the fixed ropes - starting off the shale ledge. Very hard start followed by great climbing on the pumpy red wall above. Seeps after heavy rain.

Hard start and even harder arete finish. Very impressive and inspiring line.

Start directly left of Pit Fighter. Bouldery start and more hard bits on bullet rock. Originally graded 31, you decide.

Directly left of Sentinel, last route on the left of this section of ledge before crossing the hanging swamp under the big overhang. Shares start with North by Northwest. Head straight up the wall on some of the best rock The Pit has to offer and no annoying sit down ledges. About halfway up is perhaps the most persistent seepage point on the crag, but slightly off to the side so just be ready to dry off some holds.

Shared start with Circling Vultures. Up this and left at second bolt into confubulating crux then up. Bolted by Scotty and eventually gifted to anyone who could pull the crux. Unlikely to be your first 30....

Gingerly start off right cairn, shared start with Flight Risk. Hard moves off the cairn and trend right at ledge through big moves to shield/flake then up. Logan

Emil's last great line of main wall. Punchy start shared by Pit-fit to the ledge then hard moves up to the box roof for the beta crux above. Get a few breaths in as the technical crux awaits above.

Second last route on the left, starting about 2m left of The Sword.

A brilliant route offering superb, pumpy climbing until the devious crux sequence. Walk all the way right on the ledge, past a couple of rungs to a small ledge. Best to stick clip the first 2 bolts and trend left through the limestone-like pockets then up. A classic route. Start rung is now glued in and a few more rungs have been added to the slippy traverse.

Start as for Rolling Thunder then head right at the ledge. Finish as for Astral Traveller's last 3 bolts.

Steep roof climbing in the guts of the cave. Difficult boulder off the ledge then get your steep on. Starts just right of approach hand-over rope.

Avoids The Arkenstone's bouldery lower crux by coming in from the left. Clip the first bolt on Force Cannon, then up right past four new bolts to join the original at the 'hourglass' hold. Finish directly up through the roof as for Arkenstone.

Three distinct boulder problems. So good! 6 bolts to lower off.

Bouldery first half to break, followed by two hard dynos that probably favour a decent wingspan. Tom declined to grade this but climbed it in a couple of tries.

Steep grey wall among the trees 20m L of CDD. Take care on the loose shale above a big drop as you round the corner. Tom

For the most part this is a Tiger Snatch variant. More 'doable' than Tiger Snatch as it avoids the complicated dyno in its upper section, albeit with an extra 20 move price tag. A route for the pumpers. Head left off the halfway rest as per Velvet Love. Clip a bolt, and then head upward and back to the right to clip a bolt of Beta Vinyl. Rejoin Tiger Snatch to the chain.

This variant finish to Velvet Love has turned out to be the most popular route on the wall. Climb for 15m to obvious rest at small break. Head right to a funky crux, then back left to join Tiger Cat at the lip, just under the chain. Originally graded 29, general consensus is that it is a little harder. Enjoy yourself! Jake

Tiger Snatch to the crux then diagonally right forever. After doing the Tiger Snatch crux, follow good holds R to join Sitting Bull in the roof. Turn the lip as per Sitting Bull, cross Bandula at the top of the flake, and join Brummel Hook at its 2nd last bolt to the top. Around 2013 Quentin Chastagnier did a similar linkup via a crimpy traverse a few metres higher, called "Le Tigre … " (TBC), grade 31.

Start 2m right of Tiger Snatch before the ledge drops away. Sustained face climbing leads to difficult roof moves on typically wet holds. Breach this and head rightward into the water runnel. 60m rope is only barely enough to lower off last bolt.

Climb the first six bolts of Ristretto to the letterbox slot just above a small rooflet. Moves to the left and then straight up the wall between Ristretto and Brummel Hook. Make like a bird through the roof and continue on to finish as per Brummel Hook.

Start as per Brummel Hook and head 5m right at the second bolt. Sustained and technical face climbing leads to a vague 'letter box' rest, and a series of boulder problems above to an anchor underneath the big roof.

Roof double dyno extension of Ristretto. Do Ristretto, dyno through the roof then keep on truckin' up the face into the big block and break. Continue up to join into the last few metres of Brummel Hook. Full value.

An epically long steep quest, never harder than 26ish ... but rarely easier. Joins Elephant Man for the last 2 bolts. Circle around the 2nd last bolt, similar either way. 70m rope isn’t enough to lower off. Redirect(s) essential to make the ledge.

Climbs Zigzagonal to the upper crux at the 3rd last bolt then head left for the last bolt of The Elephant Man finishing at its anchor. 70m rope is NOT enough to lower off the anchor, but is ok from last bolt. You also need to clip back in on the way down or else you'll end up stranded a long way out above the lower cliff.

Started at grade 28, quickly went to 29 and may see another advance yet. Either climb with second bolt clipped, or use locking biners on the first (a backclip would see two people go to the valley floor!). Climb up and gently rightward to roof. Head around the lip and hit the accelerator. Traverse left above the lip, up several metres and then break right and up until your forearms resemble base ball bats and you feel like if you fall you will land in the valley way below. Use a minimum 70m rope or you may well land in the valley.

Start at the base of the wall to the right of Heisenburg Corner. Traverse to arete, head up and come back onto the face to reach the roof. Around this and continue up the face for a rather long way. Probably the line of this sector.

There are three routes that share a common start marked by a small 'dry stone' platform with an undercling horn above it. Boulder up the side pull feature to attain a good break. Traverse left and up through some difficult moves, then continue up for more of the same.

Start as for Dumbo Love then left over top of scoop. Punchy crux then nice low angle climbing to the top. Crux punch may be morpho, 5'8" and under it could be very hard. 6ft it's hard. 6'3" could be easy. Hard to grade. 29-31?

Start 2m right of Dumbo Love project. An absolute cracker!

Short and hard through roof then up.

Left of seamstress. jug rope to first bolt.

First route to start on right side of cave. Scamper around blunt arete to start, trending up and right toward lava rock roof. Funky moves through roof to good rest then gear up for the crux through step prow. It might be the second time you go feet first on this climb. Hard for the grade.

Start as for Assassins, climbing through the first lava roof. Instead of going into Assassins final roof crux, head right along break to final little gate keeper moves. A great new addition to the crag. Named after Matt's dog Sadie who sadly died a few days after scoping it out with him.

Tackles the obvious prow near the centre of the wall, then through the roof and finish along left at the lip. Has an fun final move.

Start up Mississippi Moonshine, do its undercling crux, then step left and join Back to the Underground for its final crux.

Start 3m right of the prow and climb the black shale tufa feature, then trend left through the roof and back right to finish over the lip. Back jump to clean.

Start: Directly up the blunt arete. edit: no info is known about where this route is.

Sit start. Up the corner. To high horn-like jug rail.

At Carpark boulder. Tom O'Halloran

Start to the right and head left along slopers and finish via a frog serge manoeuvre as per TC & BOMY - problems to the right have been destroyed by rock fall - careful of dodgy rock

Obvious open-book corner. Sit-starts and lay-back and pinch towards obvious slopey rails rails. Drop off from lip of top out if it's not too wet

Right of HCL, tops out, wear your nappy

An outrageous piece of climbing that will test your slab and arete climbing possibly more than any other route in the Blue Mountains.

Doug McConnell

A link up. Take 'Equaliser' to near 4th bolt then bouldery past a RB on the R to join 'Fabricator'.

Starts as Equaliser, but goes straight up.

Up 'Equaliser' to hole before 3rd bolt, then R to thin stuff and overlap. Finishes at a single bolt below the choss. Back jump to previous bolt below overlap with bail biner to clean.

Thin and balancy...and powerful.

Batman start and then up the flake as for 'Iron Mike' before busting out right through some of the finest face climbing Shipley has to offer.

Start up the unforgiven till the 4/5 bolt and head right.

Hectic amounts of climbing. Start as per Larger Than Life. Instead of following Larger Than Life where it climbs slightly downward at the obvious break soon after you start traversing, head straight across the iron stone band, through the roof, and diagonally up. Double dyno to achieve the break and motor left. Continue along the break several meters past the point where Larger than Life intersects (under the perma-draw, which is not on this route). Climb through the roof when the break peters out, turn the lip and head leftward up the headwall to double rings.

31 in newer guides.

Start with the 6m batman off the plank, cruise up R to a hard but good boulder problem out the blank roof. Don't (let your belayer see you) grab the chains.

Unless you're short!

Start just R of the two wooden posts. Once was an aid route called 1914 (25M0). Start was aided to the jug, then traverse right and up through the layback as for Bare Essentials - thus avoiding the actual climbing of both routes, to finish as it does today.

You can keep your feet on if you are tall.

A little easier finish to inertia. When you feel the pain at the top of inertia why not flop out right to the jug and do 2 reachs to the top of S&D.

A good fun gymnastic route. Start at the large sandy ledge about 15m left of White Linen. Rebolted 2020/21ish (thanks), but beware the repositioned 3rd bolt is now a much harder clip if you prefer the direct beta past the 2nd, and also makes it riskier to skip the 4th (i.e. as per the Temptation video).

Hard stuff. Start as for Tutu Sullied Flesh then break left. Norry

Another Wave Wall classic. Was 28 until a combination of lightning and Justin Clark removed some holds.

Was once one of the hardest routes in the Blue Mountains, and one of Mark's finest hours. Now a popular testpiece. Start in the middle of the wall. Stick clipping the first bolt is strongly recommended. WARNING: the fixed clip-n-go biners at the top are the dodgy cast ones which can snap. Inspect them for cracks, clip both, and if in doubt thread something else. Leah

Radness start to Tsunami. Start just right of Tsunami / Smoked Mussels, and boulder your way into Tsunami at the 3rd bolt.

Start as for SM and climb it until just before the lob to the break and bust left and up to enter Sea Air crux.

Short, sharp with some hard to clip bolts. (Has been upgraded after a hold broke off.) chris

Starts 2/3 of the way down the stairs before the base of Centennial Pass.

Even better than Vanity Case? Fantastic sustained fingery climbing. Start as for Vanity Case for 4 bolts to ledge then the R line.

Arête next to Pyro. Start up corner then veer left onto arête, up to first Anchors. Very technical climbing with several cruxes. Put your thinking cap on.... (there's 2 crimps in the first Boulder that are quite often moist. be careful not to blow a tendon. once chalked up they stay dry.)

The mega extension to Utopia. very Athletic, über pumper to the end.... a full 80m rope gets you down to the ground, or rethread at first anchors.

Three great pitches, varying in style. Start 3 metres right of The Birdcage.

1. 25m (24) A little sparsely bolted but well within the capabilities of anyone up for the next pitch. Trend right following 5 rings to the belay.

2. 12m (30) Very thin on beautiful rock. Up three bolts then right past another two, ignore the direct finish unless you are after a mighty challenge. Onto the grey rock and into belay cave.

3. 20m (23) Lovely way to finish it off. Follow rings up headwall and over the top to rap chain.

Elliot

A brutal piece of body wrenching roof climbing, with an accuracy demanding pounce. 'The sword' in the stone next to the anchors will decide the true king.

A true battle for the first ascent, a clash of horns between two galiant titans, the victor will be forever etched in history, while the defeated lad is not worth mentioning.

Tricky clip, squeeze hard it will be over soon, you'll be back at work and will long for the chance to once again dance apon the rocks.

The first route on the left wall of the gully, before you hit the creek. The belay zone is perpetually muddy, so a rope tub rather than rope bag is recommended. Scramble onto high platform to put your shoes on then blast off. Much effort has gone into ensuring the unique ironstone "wave" in the final roof stays in place for your climbing pleasure. You can happily hang off it and double kneebar against it - just don't kick it or try to deliberately break it. Take one long sling for the first roof.

The rightmost of two mini-routes in the roof opposite the stairs (the left is a closed proj). Belay at creek level on dry rock platform. All killer, no filler (and no kneebars) out the roof to the lip (single bolt). Backjump.

The big left to right traverse. Start 10m L of POD under large hueco. Stickclip then blast right (including some up and down climbing) along huge features to the crux transition climbing up to the big roof. Then jug upwards to glory. Better beta has seen this settle at 29.

Start where the track meets the rock. High stickclip to start; steep, moderate climbing for 6 bolts to a ledge below the 'slab'. A baffling move to overcome the slab and then it's game on up the headwall on cool pockets to an improbable-looking, dynamic crux. Take one long sling for the first bolt on the slab.

Climb Basic Instinct to the first ledge. Clip third bolt with long sling then climb up a few moves before traversing directly L out of BI along line of pockets and up to major ledge. Marble rock above this before encountering the bulge. Jetpack through this but keep some in the tank for the technical headwall up proud orange streak.

1m R of The Specialist. With its multiple roof boulders, has a very similar flavour to The Specialist, but likely a touch harder. Deceptive headwall finale.