Routes in Australia for selected grade

Sit start very low.

Friendly looking seam 5m left of the WW slab. Standing compression start between seam and crimpy side pull. Move up via some strong laybacking. Dynamic finish.

Sit start.

Start to the right of Slam Dunkin' on a blunt crimp and an obvious thick edge. High feet on the right. Move through sharp crimp in seam and blocky hold on the left to join SD at sharp crimp (the one you throw out right to) on SD. Finish as for SD.

On the low ridge roughly 200m past The Middles proper. Stand start with a hand on a flat rail and jump start to get established into the undercling (as per FA). Up side pull rails to scary slab top.

Likely unrepeated as of 2022, but looks worthy.

Sit start and do the first move as for problem 11 (The Squeeze) then move right to the start of Single Female Lawyer and head to the top!

Sit start on the arete right of It Hurts, up the left face and arete.

Stand start on obvious block jug. Move left and up to top out ignoring the pedestal boulder for feet.

Sloper traverse to the left and topout as for Me We

Sit start in hollowed out scoop and up crimps.

Sit start with nice edges left of the rock.

Evocative name, unknown location in Hinterland. Jump start and up technical slab. See 5:35: https://vimeo.com/137464150

Yet another V8 with a jump start to reach a higher hold. https://vimeo.com/107798715

Another jump start. Beautiful and technical face. 4:30: https://vimeo.com/107798715

Sit start.

Up slab to tricky roof then a pumpy headwall.

An incredible route through the steep wall up high. Can be finished at the no hands rest half way at grade 22.

Climb Vikings and continue to a no hands rest at the break. Make your way through the undercut bulge and blast up the centre of the headwall.

Start as for Vikings. From Vikings anchor, climb to break and up two bolts. From here take the right line of bolts. Finish as for Flirtation.

Totally awesome. Overhangs 50 degrees.

Very sustained and pumpy until the last move. Was 31, but a new sequence was found. A great route and surprising long for the short crag.

Steep route through the first cave on the lefthand side of the creek. NW from Violent Crumble across the gully.

Sit Start right of Flaunt, on Left stoper and low right edge. Move to sidepull slot, and move to the top.

Stand start from face/arete right of corner. Done on face crimps. Or the Warner version of a classic arete dyno to flat jug.

Sit start as for Chalice, on the lowest holds, then top out to the left through a wafer-thin crimp. Matching on that (or using the other crimp for your left hand) and throwing to the rail is the crux. Possibly a minor variant of what was Pizza Knob (V4) which got damaged during the fires and is rated V8 in the new guide, but topping out on the same tiny holds.

Sit start and up with big moves on small crimps, with a tough topout.

Up through burly underclings to long throw to a pocket, then thrash your way around trying to find some way to keep yourself connected to the rock. Hit the knife edge apex, then easily slab your way up to finish. The topo foreshortens the climb considerably - it's no lowball, particularly with the insecure thrutching you will have to enter into up top.

A powerful start then traverses left into slapsickle. It will leave you pumped.

Start as for Fluffy Cheesecake, travers right on small crimps, finish as for Rats Nest.

Hang start on right hand jug, traverse left on crimps and slopers, mantle

After the tricky move to the sloper lip, go straight up the slab.

Sit Start on the back of the boulder on 2 flat ledges. Tricky first move into a whale of a mantle

Stand start and along underclings all the way around the boulder to topout on the far right on easy ground. Looks to have been significantly damaged by the fires, possibly harder.

Sit start and traverse right through a line of very small crimps, topping out for Brass Monkey. If you stay off the higher crimps, add a grade.

CMCC

Sit start down on the left arete then slap out to the right side of the prow then continue up with big compression moves up the prow.

Up and left crimping under roof then up and over.

Start with a hand jam between blocks and then into crack, head straight up and dyno.

Start from the scooped out area on the far side of the boulder on low slopers, hard start moves out right on crimps (You may need to clean the Blackberries as they are persistent). Many have started one block over for the sit-start, taking out the most strenuous moves of the climbs - see 'Phone Diddle'. Traverse out right and end on the jug for 1a/1b.

Start at Phone Sex and continue up Happy Ending to end on top of the boulder.

Nicer end to Phone Sex but not much harder.

May have been climbed before (if so, feel free to claim it!).

Reverse 'Phone Sex'.

Do Phone Sex then keep traversing through reverse Call Girls until you reach the base of The Tower then do The Tower.

Linking the V6 sitstart into Frankenruby to add a bit of spice

Sit start from slot at base of corner, climb prow and top out.

Bevan Ashby

Sit start at base of corner, climb left through corner but stay low and go directly from the big jug to the left arete, then climb arete/face and top out.

Stand start on the face with a left hand crimp, right hand side pull and climb straight up.

Sit start below Erico, into layaway and up through slopes and pinch tending right.

Line on this one is approximate- seems like it may be quite contrived. If anyone has clarity on where this goes please edit the topo/ description.

Sit start matched on sloper and straight up through slopers and pinches. Once you get the crack join 'Over the Hedge' to topout.

Start as for Boy's Brigade to the good holds on the traverse then take the water streak straight up, following the bolts, for a muscle fatiguing experience. A desperate direct start past one bolt awaits an ascent.

On the side that faces down valley, left of the overhanging arete. Stand start on edges up to the mantel on the face.

Start on crimp on the arete, some smooth compression moves up sees you matched the sharp arete hold a few meters off the ground. (probably done by someone else, feel free to change)

Start low on good holds, try not to get tangled between the crossing over and heel hooks, and pull out your best slab master to get to the top.

Start low down on two crimps at the furthest left of the boulder, no feet and small crimps lead into the start of the flippster. Take a 7 if you start a little further in.

Stand start matched on good rail, big move up to blind pinch and then work your way up and around the boulder

Stand start then climb up and top out.

Bevan Ashby

Nice but solid with a very low start. Was a project of Lindsay's. Sit start on horrible slopers with terrible feet out left. Crank like crazy to the right and finish up UCAP

See http://www.verticallifemag.com.au/2018/03/new-hard-route-in-waa-gorge/

follows the line of bolts up and steeply left. starts just to the right of the fractured orange rock.

Sit start at start of The Hanging Wall Proj and traverse left on worsening crimps into the start of Offset to finish as for that problem

Sit start on slopey right and and good left hand with cramped feet. A couple hard hand and foot moves into the start of Tilted

Stand start on opposing poor slopers with hooks or poor feet. Up via good and bad holds to a final big throw. Mantle up left

Sit start maybe possible v10+

Stand start in heuco and head directly up via small crimps and undercling. Bit of an eliminate

Stand start on big underclings in interesting feature and up big moves via compression on crimps and slopers. Very fun

IMPORTANT - Beta changed after an important hold broke

Emmanuel Madayag (Original FA)

Emmanuel Madayag (New Beta)

Amazing line of pockets, try not to cross up hands in sequence. A must do!

Start as per 'Fricticious' but continue rightwards in compression to topout instead of transitioning to the scoop.

Sit start with low left hand guppy and right handjam. Rad problem up atypically blocky granite. Scary due to landing.

Sit start on the bulge and up the arete to the horizontal break. Escape right to top out as with #3. Direct is still a project. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8kNgo_J81jU&feature=youtu.be

Sit start matched on the flat rail on the left. Rad sequence with awesome features. Most of the difficulty is in the opening moves to gain the undercling. Has been toped out wedged between the fin and the face. (Andys original FA was done as a drop off, and the top out was added by Clinton Martinengo in 2016). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ma-CBohLw5g

Sit start on the poor crimps and low foot. Big throw to the arete and then follow the arete right and up. Second problem in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=drTyjLhY7Ds

High-ish start on left hand edge and a right hand crimpy pinch.

Sit start, desperate to slab. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zqRHTXd_WQ8

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FK9MmnXPE4Q

Sit start with crimps. Shouldery sequence to gain the start of 'Freestyler'

Sit start under the slight belly in the rock. Head up to small dimple crimps.

Sit start and squeeze your way up the features to gain the two good sidepulls. First move is the crux https://vimeo.com/225080096

Squat start on underclings, explode up to jug pinch.

Stand start. Work your way up the arete with funky footwork and small crimps on the bulge.

Toe hook beta: https://vimeo.com/219173746

Heel hook beta: https://youtu.be/gHHdgVHfAkM

Same starting jug as 'Eyes on the Pies', but uses a series of gastons to climb directly up. Slightly sketchy top-out. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fxyN0rOWyG8

Start on the flake - trend right to right hand sidepull. https://vimeo.com/183770584

Sit start the right arete with sloper and low right crimp.

Smack the lip, spin your way through the tensioney traverse and bust out the glorious finish of Body Battle

Low start matched on the chalky pinch holds (same start as 'Haystacks') and up the middle of the boulder with long move to crimp, avoid trending too far left into 'Haystacks'

Sit start with good blocky right hand and left hand undercling. Paste feet on the fin then powerful moves and up to topout to the right. https://youtu.be/8jyx4KfHrUg?t=173

Big and proud! Stand start with hight right hand and low left sidepull, then up the obvious feature. Sit might go - looks bulk hard. https://vimeo.com/298400655

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/some-new-lines/

Savage Crimpy Traverse. Sit start V-Juice and traverse right to finish up jugs.

Julz

Gavin C

Sit Start of V-juice into Mr Bump. Powerful and Technical.

Originally graded v9/10 by the FAer but alternative beta has been found which might make it slightly easier.

Gareth W

Liam D

Julz

Sit start. Blast up and right. Fucking hard.

Mitch W

Sit start right hand in the left most of the two pockets and left hand small crimp. Big move to the lip.

Robin (Last problem in the video)

A free version of Learning to Fly (though the exact line goes more straight up than LTF)

Logan's description in 2011:

"Finally freed the direct line of bolts Richard kindly put in straightening out Learning to Fly 23 (A0) on the back wall of Mountain Quarry. Has a pretty hard boulder prob at the start (where the A0 move is on LTF) and then another hard boulder at about 3/4 height where the line has been punched straight up over a triangle feature instead of traversing way around right. Hard to grade since its really just two seperate problems which felt about V6/7/8ish? each to me. Be good to hear some comments from others who have tried it."

https://loganclimbsrocks.blogspot.com/2011/05/unchipped-route-in-perths-big-chip-and.html

WARNING: Same issues surrounding rockfall as the rest of this section of wall (I believe this has lost at least one bolt since the FA)

Logan's description:

"Got the project up the middle of Skywalker wall yesterday (7/3/2011). It was chipped and equipped by Mark Wilson and i got his permission to do it. It starts left of skywalker and goes up the thin face to where the corner block of skywalker used to be. It then goes through the overlap and finishes up premature evacuation. It is awsome technical fingery climbing and a full 30m. Gives your forearms a good pump. Needs some others to attempt it to give an idea of grade as i am not too sure. Could be 28 or 29 but i am leaning towards 29.:

https://loganclimbsrocks.blogspot.com/2011/03/death-star-29-mountain-quarry-perth.html

Visioned by Gerard Chipper in the 90’s? Equipped by Jarrod May in 2003. FA Jarrod May 2003. Once described as ‘looking like a pile of horse cum, but actually climbs really nice’

Cardio Funk into Sweet Pea Link Up