Routes in Australia for selected grade

Up pockets and through roof to ledge. Full body climbing through the next steep section to ledge. A lower angle final third caps things off. Take a couple of long slings and kneepads.

The first route you get to, up the arete and right at the top. Pretty wild...

Batman start. A few metres to the right 'She Male'. Near the right side of the cave.

Start as per Captain My Captain but continue trending right and then up. Small holds, powerful moves.

Excellent compact sandstone. Technical thuggery if that is not an oxymoron. Start out of cave with undercut start. Six bolts before moving right and up again to anchors under the rooflet.

Awesome, steep, exposed, the line immediately to the left of the prominent black streak. Outrageous climbing in the most exposed position in the Bluies. Fix a rope and rap down as for Scurvy, Stiletto etc, down the initial slab (pitch 2) and then over the sucking void clipping many bolts as you go to stay in contact with the wall. After approx. 70m you'll arrive on the major ledge which has a series of belays along it. Anchor in to some of the bolts on the left but belay from the position with the single bolt next to an empty bolt hole (???).

The FA was climbed from the ground via Red Edge and Red Edge Variant.

1. 45m (29) The absolute money. Good rock, rad moves, and very spaced bolts. Monkey your way through the awesome steep jugs to a long, sustained, and desperate crux section. Fire this, take a rest, and bust out one more tricky sequence to the choss cave. Congratulations, you're halfway there. Steel thyself and clench thy teeth as you bust out another long section of sustained steepness to finally collapse at the anchor wide eyed and drained of all energy. Classic. 10 bolts.

2. 25m (?? easy) This pitch has no bolts but looks very easy. Either embrace the death solo or consider traversing across to one of the equally easy looking alternate exit pitches. Or jug out.

At current the hardest steepest line up one of the most continuous pieces of overhanging rock anywhere in the Bluies. Follows the first 1.5 pitches of Stiletto before breaking off right and forging a path straight up the looming sea of orange. The bolting is quite spaced the whole way but generally safe, if scary, intimidating, all too much etc etc. Usual multi pitch gear for this one. Around 15 draws including some 30cm ones. Bring a couple of long (120cm) slings to sling a tree for the second last belay.

1. 40m (26) As for Stiletto. Start on the pillar and slap your way up the blunt arete to the belay. Careful getting to the second and third bolts.

2. 40m (26) Left from belay then up through some bouldery moves to more moderate climbing. Below the big roof break off right from Stiletto and follow the bolts to boulder with difficulty around said roof. Easily up right to comfy ledge belay.

3. 30m (24) Go left from the belay and up onto beautiful water-washed slab. Amazing rock and holds on this pitch that just builds and builds and builds! Classic! Hanging triple bolt belay under roof.

4. 25m (29) Where the steepness begins. Right off belay and straight into the business. There are a few cruxes on this pitch to keep you going, including the gate keeper last move, and a few run-outs to get the heart rate up! Hanging belay under roof at triple bolts.

5. 20m (30) Off right from belay and out roof via a hard boulder on the lip and a scary block with a lotttttt of glue behind it. Up a few more moves and then the dyno. Continue up excitingly to belay on ledge.

6. 20m (26) Straight up off belay through some hard moves. Keep some juice in the tank for this pitch. It's not over until it's over. Up easy climbing to big ledge. Bring a couple of long slings to make a belay up on the ledge.

7. 35m (10) Head off left along the ledge. Sling a tree and clip a couple of bolts to take you up to top belay of Red Edge, Stiletto etc.

Have fun!

New start into Mudeye then finish direct via Onions Extension. Loads of fun climbings and a good option if the Onions start is under siege.

Onions for 5 bolts then a cool pocket boulder to move R into Don't Believe.

The Boronia classic and continually under siege. Onions start, head R as for Tripe to 5th bolt, L into the flake and up. Fixed draws are a common sight on this route and become extremely sharp very quickly. Check them carefully or risk death. Bin any sharp ones you find. Clint Inalee

Onions start then trend R up onto the awesome steep grey wall, then drift back L. Axel Jarmila Clint

A RHF for Tripe.

Start about 15m R of the shared Onions start. Very dusty base, and often muddy/seepy start holds, but great after that. Tackle the steep R-leaning line of flakes and then the biggest part of the roof. JackM Tom

THE CRAG CLASSIC, Stunning fist size crack coming from underneath the cave with amazing seams and slopers to top out on.

TWOAF into Bloodline

Starts up Bloodline, then follows Booby Trap left a move and up 2m to the jugs. Now avoid the top crux of Booby trap by easy jugging L and up the last 2 bolts of TWOAF.

Start as for Bloodline through roof, left a move and then straight up.

Start as for Brain Haemorrhage at top of large sloping block. Boulder out the thin start then good jugs await. After 10m, where BH goes up, scuttle R to a good rest before the sustained crux up the flake and into the roof crack. Steep! Mattia

' My first real project I suspect. Gonna take some time!' yep , three years and one week.. from the ground climb tck , clip high bolt on arrete , sit on the ledge and pull the rope through then up heading right after hands free rest on arette. A 80cm sling above kneebar rest and two more on traverse /crux were used. A grade 30 move or two on a grade 25 route. Would be very soft for tall people. Happy to downgrade if anyone repeats it clean from ground and dissagrees with 29.

The low crux looks quite mingin' but actually climbs very well.

Start up TCP then left at big jug shared by FF.

Boulder problem start into excellent resistance climbing above on RRG style incut edges.

The more pleasant and sustained way to climb this route. Start as for Freak on a Leash but traverse left into Pigs in Space just above its hard, bouldery start.

Far right end of wall. Up short wall to break. Steep punch to inverted kneebar rest. Boulder out the crux traversing directly left through steep territory before latching the final drive-by and topping out on the arete.

Steep start then traverse left along the big horizontal then to a hard sequence below the top roof.

One of the best routes at Departures. Another of Bell's classic 30's.

After the tricky and hard start good holds lead to a mid height rest where this little number steps up a notch. A couple thin moves lead to the last jug before the long and sustained top section where good hard moves and poor feet will have you screaming to the top of the wall.

Unusual and absolutely desperate moves through the mid-height roof.

climb straight into frustrating roof boulder problem then head leftwards towards another hard move before exiting to anchors

An easy start provides access to the magnificent top third. Extending a few bolts is prudent. Has also been done by starting up La Realite and moving left through the last rest of Reality Dysfunction to join this route at the bolt 9 pocket (Socks n Jocks 30, Tom O'Halloran, 7/9/14).

A link of the Mr Redeemer start to the 5th? bolt then traverse a rad ironstone break into the upper crux of Fast Forward The Future.

Good all the way, with a hard start and finish. Once you have a draw on the last bolt, most people find it easier to skip the awkwardly placed 2nd to last bolt. Can be linked into the top of SBA to give an easier finish (about 27-if you can get off the ground).

A popular and sustained climb. Low first crux and sustained top half, a little slice of Nowra.

A long move at the second bolt, then superb climbing to a bouldery crux. Be prepared to get frustrated if you are trying this one during a La Niña weather pattern.

Shared start. If you are cursed with damp and clammy skin, either use the secret German potion (Antihydral cream) or wait for a cold day to tackle a steep first half that leads to a thin crux on the headwall.

In public service parlance, an ‘outside emergency’. Shared start then low and right before heading up the steepness. Steep and sustained on generally good holds. To avoid drag, clip the rightmost of the 3 third bolts.

Starts 3m left of DMTT.

Starts down in the back of the cave, climbs all the way to the lip of the cave.

Reportedly freed by Derek Thatcher and Zac Vertrees. Start up Aesthetic Images to its 2nd bolt, then rising traverse left to gain line of bolts right of Candle Power. About grade 29.

The direct start and finish to Shimmering, continuing straight up from the 2nd bolt of Aesthetic Images, and also going direct from the last bolt to the independent anchors (not sneaking back onto Aesthetic Images at its 2nd last bolt).

Bouldery start, no batman’n. Moderate climbing to the ledge. Punchy move over bulge to gain good edge. Thin moves lead to good jug/slot. Nice big sidepull move takes you up to the final crux and the single U bolt loweroff.

The line straight up the centre of the overhang, tackling some serious steepness. 5m to the right of The vector

Pretty rad! Just to the left of Chasing Stars

Consistently steep fun moves on some of the best rock in the area. Access along the ramp from Chasing stars.

The inverted squeeze chimney / bum-crack above the Camping Cave. Starting at the back of the cave, chimney up, invert from a fist jam, stick your feet up there and shuffle upside down to lip. Cut loose, work around lip, then cruise up offwidth vertical section. Has been done in various ways using the full range of offwidth techniques, needs a few 5 & 6 cams for roof.

Hardest climb listed at Tarana, maybe the hardest "wide" climb in Aus?

Start with a right hand on the crimp just below the lip, and left hand on a side pull down low. Work your way up and mantle onto the slab

https://www.instagram.com/reel/Cf_HCCUJqGD/?igshid=YzAyZWRlMzg=

1st line of fixed hangers to the right of the start of strangeness

1. 36m (21) Really good climbing and worth doing as a single pitch. Follow up the Fixe hangers to chains (some long slings are helpful). Lowering off using al 70m rope will JUST make it down to the ground.

2. 35 m (27) Solid climbing that would give an impressive on-sight. Follow the steel to finish at a semi-hanging belay. Originally done without the last bolt.

3. -m (30) Sail out into the slab with solid sustained climbing on a long pitch.

Start: Start 6m right of 'Jewel Box'.

1. 35m (29) Excellent sustained climbing on bolts to the little cave above with a fixed anchor.

2. 25m (21) (21M1) Straight up the groove past many bolts to a belay underneath the roof.

3. 40m (22) (22M1) Aid through the roof to wall above, then move right to flake. Up through the overlap then left and up to a niche and bolt belay.

4. 25m (19) Move left and up to the buttress above on beautiful rock. The route finishes at the bottom of the impossible looking buttress. Bolts to rap off.

Between Teflon and Olympus mons. Finish at Teflon anchor.

An awesome excursion taking the line of most resistance up the tallest section of the south wall. The route takes in some wild and physical territory as it journeys up the wall to its final crux just below the rim of the gorge. Starts on the clean section of slab a short distance right of the base of Red Supergiant and just before the base of the wall becomes a jungle. It is easily identified by the stainless steel fixed hangers meandering up the slab and into the steepness beyond.

1. 23

2. 24

3. 28

4. 27

5. 23

6. 23

7. 26

8. 29

9. 20

Do a move or two as for 'Evolution' pitch 6, then trend R following the line of bolts up the left hand side of the big cave, eventually joining 'Jump Master' at the top of its first pitch.

Start: Start as for 'Evolution' pitch 6.

Excellent continuous climbing that pushes a direct line up the centre of the South Wall.

The first 4 pitches of this route makes for a straight forward sports climb that is easy to get off in 2 raps if climbing with double ropes. Sport bolted over 6 long days.

1. (24) 25m Start as for ‘Andrews Arête’, hard start moves. (21 if you pull the first two bolts)

2. (21) 40m Continue up following the Siblings bolts until a small corner with a sapling and 'Lucky' bolt hangers. Follow bolts up and right to a bolt belay in pod.

3. (19) 30m Straight up the blunt arête to the green ledge, traverse right 5m to roomy belay with bolts.

4. (24) 25m Great face climbing to a hanging belay.

5. (26) 50m Up right on big holds to a thin punchy crux then continue up joining ‘Overture to the Sun’ briefly and a long runout on easy climbing to belay at the base of the orange wall to the right of the Siblings belay. Chain belay.

6. (30) 30m Orange headwall. Climb the blunt arête with great holds and follow bolts to a semi hanging belay.

7. (27) 30m Exposure at its best, continue up and pull through committing lip (crux) then up on good hold to finish at chain. Walk back to the car park up the hill.

Just left of the open project. The shortest route in the gorge but mega burly.

The very appealing steep left-trending blunt arete just left of Fluidity. Looks great so we'll open the bidding at 2 stars. Higher or lower bids accepted! 30 the way Phil did it, but some better beta was later found.

Sit start and up left to finish as for 'Steak & Chips'.

Problem possibly now defunct, large flake came off.

Sit start and out the little roof to finish on jugs.

Sit start and up the hanging block.

Sit start and out the steep wall to top out.

Squat start just right of chock stone with right hand undercling, left hand sidepull. Up to sloper on lip and right to top out.

Sit start and up left to top out by stepping onto the boulder on the left when you get to the top of the face.

"Slabbing areteness."

"Classic low ball. At least its a stand start."

The mega classic. Sit start on the good jug low and right and make your way left and up through slopey pockets and crimps.

Start as for Castle Hill Dreaming (V10) but move left and up instead of direct.

Sit start then up right to top out through gap.

Sit start on good pinches. Move up via tufa-esque pinches to top out.

The sit start to 'Easy Way Out'. Unfortunately requires a few stacked mats to get going, so quite contrived. Very hard on the biceps - at virtually full reach, use the rail and poor underclings to get off the ground, then execute as per the harder variant of 'Lest We Forget'. Possibly one for the future generations...

Needs gardening (removal of a boulder at the sit - full excavation, please don't use explosives much as you may wish to) before this can be sent. A granite, sit-start, CAVE problem. Yes, you start fully horizontal. Will be a hard one if someone puts in the work to clean up the sit area. Otherwise it's a fairly poor problem.

After a few holds exploded what is left is a brutal crimp start to get onto a few poor side clings then somehow make your way up the face. There's not so much holds on this as there are vague tiny scoops and indents in the rock.

Sit start and traverse right along underclings then up via hard lock-off in pocket. Very bad feet. May be easier if you're short.

Sit start obvious jug and up through mini roof via small crimps and interesting moves to slopey top. Very good

Straight up the arete, topping out straight up through the seam. Hard!

One chipped hold, strenuous moves on tiny holds. Getting feet onto the rock is the crux - probably a 1-2 move problem, but hard ones nonetheless. Grade to be confirmed.

Traverse either way - crux is middle section.

Sit start using left side pull and right chipped two finger pocket. Climb bulge and top out.

Sit start at Ares, traverse right and then finish up Hades.

Probably the best face climb on the Ridge. Powerful and delicate, requiring great body tension and with a demanding topout.

Sit start jug right hand arete, traverse leftwards into Ares finishing up the latter.

Big move or dyno.

Sit start from undercling/gaston then climb up using high right sloper and top out. No stacking pads for SS. Note: There was no footer left of the starting holds for the FA. A new footer was revealed after the block to the left became loose and was removed. Now easier/downgraded.

Bevan Ashby

Sit start as for Factor B and then traverse right through some tough moves to hit the arete. finish as for Moonshine.

Sit start at Lax Ligaments, and traverse up and left to finish at the very end of the face/start of the arête.

on the outside of the gym on the wall facing the main school building there is the obvious climbable wall. on this wall there are 2 green pipes to the left of the right most pipe there is a crack start with your left hand in this crack and head straight up

Start as for The Warm Up, then traverse right along the low line using slopers and underclings. Head up when you reach Power Up, to finish as for one of the Percival lines. [An earlier version of this problem was destroyed by some scum sucking bike riders with crowbars. !!&^&%^]

Start at the Power Up crimps, make a big move to the Bogan sloper and finish directly up.

CMCC

Sit start with crimps in the middle of the wall, then straight up via the slopey middle top out (the same top out as Percival the Feisty Mouse).

Stand start from underclings, as for Muy Forte, then climb straight up using right hand gaston and top out (eliminating the right hand slot used on the standard Muy Forte problem).

Some of the most desperate slopers you will ever use. Sit start. Hardest part is getting your feet underneath you for the move onto the body of the boulder.

Sit start and fridge hug the body of the boulder.

Chris Beers

Also called 'the nothing'. V8 in the guide which depends on beta that goes out right before heading up the arete. If you stick purely to the arete you could probably add a grade.

Sit start.

CMCC

Sit start on edges left of jade and up the blunt prow. Vidya https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fc8BgxuA6Rg

Sit start. Left side of the fixed descent rope.

Sit start with nice crimping and one big throw.

Sit start.