Routes in Australia for selected grade

Start low on small crimps below the big letterbox jug. Punch up to it on various crimps and slopers and jump to the top. Good and Fun.

RHV of Piranha. Pretty much the same climb with a much easier mantle.

"A vertical wall which is the remains of a disused quarry can be found on the western side of Woolloomooloo Bay at Finger Wharf. Developed by Peter Balint and Mike Myers in the late 80's" - .sydneyrockies.org.au

Powerful and continuous 30m traverse starting from the ledge, following the lower crack line (and a few chipped-in holes) and finishing near the far right corner.

Grassy landing, no crashpad required.

Just right of the cave is a large protruding fridge feature. Sit start on the lowest holds and slap up the sides to a mantle crux directly up. The separate section of rock to the right is off for hands and feet. Enjoyable moves that may be easier with cleaning.

Sit start matched on the low crimp, up to lip via small crimps.

i cant get it but if someone can please take a video and grade it

Sit/crouch start matched on arete using horn pinch and dimple feature, chug along arete and diagonal cracks to the top and out, bail to fail slab crimp is in. Jaime Williams (FA)

Same as for spitfire, just eliminating the crimp on the slab face used in bail to fail. Feels harder than a V8 but too soft for a 9. Jaime Williams (FA)

The hard 'direct' line up the arete. Sit start on the low horizontal rail. Climb up using cool crimpy rails and compression on the water-polished arete. Pretty unique! Top out as per 'Shazza Dazza'.

Blast above the anchors of Ghetto Superstar for a hard boulder extension. Mantle out over top to fixed loweroff above for the tick.

Start on right facing slopey sidepull and slot below, Make your way through the slots then top out right.

The full shebang!! Matt’s originally mega line, set free and sent by that strong young Cossey lad. Starts up Cougars, across Battle Cat, bit of a rest on the 50 Shades ledge then bang out the top boulder of Kids with Knives then hold that pump to finish topped out above the Junkyard Dog.

Sit start (LH) on an under cling jug and (RH) on a large pinch. Make some burly moves to gain the lip heading right to an edge and small pocket before moving to the break.

Has recently been vandalised by kids?? One hold a little broken and chips out of another..

Chris Beers

Sit start as for "Max I Am" and make some big moves right to gain the scoop on "Ice Eyes", finish as for "Ice Eyes".

Chris Beers

Sit start matched on a right facing under cling. Move left to some shallow pockets in the roof before some hard moves to gain the large pocket on the lip. Finish in the break.

Leah Dempsey Chris Beers

Stand start in the crack corner near the end of Anger Management. Right hand on the shelf, left hand at the bottom of the crack below it. Move up into the undercling crack and traverse up and left until an easy topout around the corner.

Peter Jeavons

Up Tiptoe to the jug, then back out around the bulge and across into the last jugs of the Anger Management topout. Minor dabbing on the tree is not an issue but shouldn’t aid the climber. Stay safe.

Peter Jeavons

V8/9 Super cool prow of the Corridor Boulder. Sit start low left then out to the right arête and up!

Double arete. Start back of cave matched on undercling, out & up.

Strait out angled roof to desperate top out. Great route.

Crouch start on ledge at lip and finish on ledge up and left. Another classic. Big cut over rock pool makes this problem very exciting.

Traverse roof and finish up CGS . No backwall

The central line through the best rock of the cave. Gymnastic climbing in the first half. Outstanding boulder problem after the ledge. Kneepad used on the first ascent.

To minimise rope drag double or triple length draws are recommended, as well as unclipping previous draws where possible.

Start at the same big jug as Bored gecko. Go right making a massive move to traverse past the crack. Keep going right to Nidorian's knee bar and make another big move to big jug flake.

Kai Buckman

Dylan Hill

Start up Pumprocker for a few moves, then head straight left reversing the crimp crux of Nirvana, and finish up the big undercling move of Renegades.

Dyno - grab jug rail at head height, smear feet and launch for hueco, top out. Maybe a bit harder for people under 6ft. Essentially climbs the wall left of GD without using the obvious holds on the routes either side.

Start with left hand in nice undercling in roof and right on a decent pinch. Kick right foot up into the jug and you are away, head left to good 2 finger pocket/sloper at the lip and then mantle.

Start on the rhs of the boulder at a big obvious jug. Move onto the roof jugs, go right hand to the lip, then move up to the good edge via slopers and mantle...

Start low at Pull-kun, traverse left into Pullman, then join into Hail to the crimp.

Sit start same as 'Gatekeeper'. Move up and left using heels and compression on the arete to the jug out left on the slab. Go up and top out.

Sit start LH undercling pocket & RH gaston crimp. Using the arete and other holds, move up and right into the crack and keep going up.

A tad contrived for the sake of more problems. Stand start on the lowest footer with both LH & RH on sidepulls. Move up and right through a series of pockets & crimps to exit the same as 'Grace Under Pressure'

Obvious jug foot and all rock to the right of the break is OUT

Tara Sutherland's 2002 ascent was the first Aussie female ascent of a grade 30.

A perfect boulder problem on a rope. Three moves to glory... slip, slop, slap.

A savage little number with a very hard crux. Great sequence!

2m right of SITW , rebolted May 2017.

Start: Just left of rabbit trap on small pockets and edges.

Super bouldery roof. The original flake in the roof broke and has now been replaced by a drilled pocket.

The line just to the right of Meet The G. Fun climbing via some sandy sections to a heartbreaker ending. Conditions help. Previously known by another name. The first ascentionist has requested that the route be known by the original name given to it by the equipper.

This is the left arete of the awesome hanging wall. Climb from the ground to a sustained boulder problem past the last 2 bolts.

Batman to start of Evil E. Move left and do the crux of Insane in the Brain then left at the 4th bolt into the undercling crux of Funky Gripsta. Under the rooflet, move right a metre and finish up Evil E through its crux. Classic link up.

Make sure you traverse right into Evil E directly after the crux of Funky - if you find yourself at the kneebar rest, you've gone much too far. Give yourself 28 if you do it this way.

As for Insane Funk and the Evil Grip but go right out of the hole at the third bolt across a few crimps back into Evil E rather than left into Funky Gripster.

Start 4m R of Evil E, stick clip and batman to start. The climbing is barely any harder than Evil E but is more sustained, and just as brilliant. It's easy to place the draws while lowering off Evil E if you want the soft option.

Sit start matched on the rail (left side of the face). Bust out right into flake and turn on your go-go-gadget arms to grab heuco further right. From here, head straight up to jugs around lip and top out.

Mega classic. V7 if you’re Alec or Pat

A worthwhile line that skips the first move of The Crotty.

Sit start as per Unknown, but don't go up to large jug and jug pocket (these are eliminated). Instead, from the good crimp rail, head right to join and finish up The Crotty.

Diagonally up the wall to a tricky gaston move to finish. Ledge on the ground is NOT in!

5m left of Slurry Whipping. Line of RBs over bulge to double RBs.

The line just right of lucious, a sandy start leads into some tough but good bouldery moves through the roof, finishes up Aloha.

Classic steep Nowra climbing. Don't pump out after the crux - it has been done!

Start as for Comin' at ya Pundi, through initial crux, then out left past a hanger under roof to finish up the final moves of El Maco.

Extension to Old, Fat and Married.

A good line that shares the first two rings of 'Maintain The Rage' before veering slightly left and up the wall and finishes up 'Black Flag'.

Classic South Central climbing! Do the start dyno of Brown Badge, then head right past a couple independant bolts to join Spermies, and finish at its anchors.

Up ANS for a few bolts then, instead of veering R to finish, keep heading left for a few more bolts through steep territory just left of the arete, finishing just R of 'Brown Badge'.

If you love pumped forearms then at the last bolt (before anchor) traverse left to finish up Brown Badge.

Start: Start as for Ain't no Sunshine.

Right hand exit to dungeon master, keep right after the first jump around the lip and finish up the slab.

Mark McGivern

Insane! A line of holds just happens to lead into the belly of the big roof, meeting the Big Cheese for the final few moves at the lip. The star destroyer shaped roof is brilliant pocketed sandstone.

Andrew Bull Hugo Hornshaw

As for Stinky Cheese for 8 metres or so. Head up through the slopey flake to the start of the roof. Go left about 10 metres to join the last 3 moves of Cheesemonster (stay high).

Variants to NDCS : just before the final crux, drop-down onto Cheesemonster's final big jug. Finish as for Cheesemonster or Stinky Cheese.

Contrived but how i believe it was originally climbed, Without using the lefthand underling. lock it and load it!

Sit start and up then left to finish at the break out left.

Sit start and up right to finish at the break.

Sit start as for the "Two Fingered Destiny" but head right to join Mr Olympia and finish as per that problem.

Start as per Mathayus but traverse left on slopers and finish up the left hand peak of the boulder.

Sit Start 2m right of Crème Brûlée with big hole jug. Powerful moves directly out the roof. Into sloping seam then shared topout.

Reminiscent of Cave Club in the Grampians.

The hardest route at New Nowra? Left most line directly up through the massive steepness. Scramble up shale mess to small ledge. Bouldery and unlikely start onto the white white (ignore seepy seam) - then up and out out out. Spaced bolting.

Short crack to spectacular orange line above.

Abseil down to double bolt belay. Pre or stick clip 1st bolt. Follow the arete the whole way up

Crouch start both hands in slot/pocket to begin, head up on pockets to a pad edge jump to the top. Aretes are off.Different heights will give different grades.

Chris Beers

Alec Landstra

Up through some decent edges to a fairly average one and then gain the left bucket by kicking out to it, it can be done in different ways but this way gets the grade.

Chris Beers

Ignore the first set of anchors and keep on climbing up the ever thinning seam crack that eventually fades to crimps. Mega. (There is also a couple of bolts above the extension on the juggy grey slab above to reach the main ledge - but no pitch above these.)

RBs just right of Exile. Crosses Exile up high.

Orange thin face right of the central scoop feature. Finishes when the rock goes black and crap.

Nail hard extension above the scoop feature. A lot of the bolts are hard to clip until at your waist. Finishes at same set of high anchors at Climbalot.

Great climbing getting continually harder as you go. Start as for Mr Magoo but after the sixth bolt head left crossing Tucker Time and continue left and over the left side of the roof.

Tuckered Out is probably the best route on the wall, grade wise, climbing wise and fun wise. It has so much more climbing than most of the other routes. Climb Super Duper Goo but finish up the roof of Tucker Time.

A good, less steep offering. A hard start that can be done many ways sets you up for a good rest followed by great consistent climbing. A big crux move guards the anchor jugs and easier climbing. Conservation is the name of the game on this one. Soft, and a small number of (mostly tall) climbers take 29, but for now there is still a clear consensus that it's 30.

A slight variation to Zac's original vision for the line. Start as for "Mister Gluecklick for the first 3 bolts then straight up the flake and finish up "Theda Bara". Enjoy.

An enjoyable outing.

Packs a punch for the grade and the length. Start as for Mr Carpet Burn but at the mid height crimp rail traverse left and finish up Fantastic Mr Fox. Be sure to climb straight up from the last bolt via the poor right hand three finger pocket (which has crumbled away a bit which probably changes things) and the left hand door knob (not to give you beta ) - this is the crux of Mr Universe. People have been known to circumvent this crux by going right into Mr Carpet Burn at the last bolt and to traverse back on the jugs, thus completing said circumvention - this is the "28" (ha ha) version called Mr Puniverse (see above).

People complain about link-ups, but if it's fun it's fun and this one's great. Up Hairline 2000 to the rest then right into the crux of Mr Tickle .... delishious.